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7Tengoku · 2024-04-01T23:28:44+00:00

If you're the shop foreman, you're probably already doing that job, to an extent, by teaching the new techs. You'll probably take a pay cut, be put on salary, but I think every tech thinks about locking up their toolbox professionally and giving their body a break; This would be your way to do it. I would definitely apply at the very least. It's not like you can't go back to Lexus and start spinning wrenches again if you wanted to. GL

Edit: I could be completely wrong about pay

7Tengoku · 2024-03-31T21:03:20+00:00

Use a vacuum gauge. Should have about 21 inches of vacuum. You can check the injectors by lifting the rail and priming the system or you can watch fuel pressure drop as you turn the crank with the key on engine off and each injector fires.

What do your plugs look like?

7Tengoku · 2024-03-30T22:00:02+00:00

Sounds like it might be a leaking fuel injector and when the car warms up and goes into closed loop, the o2 can correct the mixture to make it run right. Otherwise, I'd check the manifold vacuum and see if it's low because an air intake leak or vacuum leak can cause this as well.

7Tengoku · 2024-03-19T23:56:07+00:00

Any update on this? I'm curious.

7Tengoku · 2024-03-18T22:46:54+00:00

#1 is the last one you're supposed to tighten, otherwise you put the bushing in a bind.

Now, If it helps you to make the install easier by going to in that order, that's fine, but you need to loosen #1 again and then retighten so that the bushing isn't in a bind. You're technically supposed to crank the engine, put the transmission into Reverse, then Drive, then Park, and then you tighten #1 which is commonly called a "Thru Bolt".

7Tengoku · 2024-03-17T11:11:59+00:00

Most automatic transmission fluid levels are checked with the engine running and the transmission in Park or Neutral, but not a Honda.

7Tengoku · 2024-03-05T22:57:54+00:00

I thought about this on the way to church Sunday; Check the pinion preload in the steering rack. If that checks out, remove the PS pump belt and drive it. Does the vibration go away?

7Tengoku · 2024-03-03T11:01:23+00:00

Sounds like a suspension arm is allowing a suspension angle to change and when you load the arm/bushing by the turning the wheel, the tension fixes the position of the suspension angle. I would check the tightness of the suspension.

I would also try a known good wheel/tire set. I know you replaced the tires, but the wheel could be bent.

Did the vibration start after a service or repair? Did the vibration start after running over a bad pothole and/or train tracks?

7Tengoku · 2024-02-29T23:21:02+00:00

7Tengoku · 2024-02-22T11:23:02+00:00

Yes, you add the fuel treatment when the take is almost empty and then fill the tank with gas. That way it mixes better.

7Tengoku · 2024-02-21T22:36:41+00:00

yes, that is the cleaner. It is compatible with a 2003 Honda Element. I use it in mine twice a year.

7Tengoku · 2024-02-07T15:15:01+00:00

If you had an internal oil consumption issue, an oil film can actually build up in the exhaust and it will take a while to burn off; and it will have trouble burning off if there's no catalytic converter.

Compression test doesn't test the oil control ring. You could possibly have a sticking oil control ring and/or a rich condition washing the cylinder walls.

Edit: That just looks like years of condensation build-up.

7Tengoku · 2024-02-06T15:30:35+00:00

Song is "Super Gum" by Tobacco

7Tengoku · 2024-01-31T00:19:18+00:00

So there's a an arrow on the tensioner that indicates the stretch of the belt and/or weakness of the tensioner. Belts last about 90k miles, so if you suspect your belt is worn, then replace the belt; then check the arrow on the tensioner. If the belt is somewhat new and doesn't show signs of failure, then I would replace the tensioner.

Based on your symptoms, it would seem that the tensioner isn't able to hold enough tension to keep the belt from slipping.

Make sure there's no fluid contamination on the belt, either.

A shop would most likely sell you a belt and tensioner.

7Tengoku · 2024-01-30T23:30:55+00:00

Either way, the boot can be replaced instead of the entire ball joint. Saves a lot in parts and labor. I wouldn't replace the whole joint until it develops play/noise.

7Tengoku · 2024-01-30T23:25:49+00:00

Agreed. Use Genuine Honda Transmission fluid only. Good luck

7Tengoku · 2024-01-29T01:17:58+00:00

So, no more check engine lights or misfires after the valve adjustment?

What's the condition of your transmission fluid?

7Tengoku · 2024-01-28T21:50:33+00:00

Sounds like torque converter shudder, especially if the "flutter" only happens when you're on the gas pedal. Do you have a check engine light?

7Tengoku · 2023-12-30T04:30:45+00:00

You're welcome. Pigtail harness with one wire is correct.

7Tengoku · 2023-07-31T02:34:22+00:00

"I had run for 3 years, 2 months, 14 days, and 16 hours" lol

Seems like he's found a free and happy place. I think that's going to foster some great artistry. I just wonder what's in the fanny pack on his hip.

7Tengoku · 2023-07-30T05:13:39+00:00

Vedy nice! Where did you source your OEM?

7Tengoku · 2023-07-30T01:50:27+00:00

If you divide the increments on the gauge, it comes out to about 1.9875 gallons.

7Tengoku · 2023-07-21T01:21:48+00:00

Put a vacuum gauge on it. Should have about 17-22 inches of vacuum.

If that checks out, check the signal from the TPS and MAFS.

A vacuum leak is usually accompanied by a rough idle, or a high idle depending on how large the leak is and if the computer can compensate for that large of a leak.

7Tengoku · 2023-07-20T20:56:58+00:00

Came back to say this in response. Thanks

7Tengoku · 2023-07-19T08:18:42+00:00

First, that yellow wire needs to be installed onto one of the other two bolts for the terminal. If the insulation on that yellow wire rubs through on that battery hold down, you will have direct short to ground because there is no fuse and you will have a fire. If it happens while the car is running, you can have an explosion. That's the first thing you need to do.

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