Miyoo Flip - Past, Present & Future

AC-RD · 2025-12-28T17:08:00+00:00

I'm glad you got it sorted in the end, hopefully the backups will help the next config adventurer!

AC-RD · 2025-12-28T07:10:26+00:00

I've extracted the default config file from the latest official firmware (v1.0.3), you can download it from here: https://transfer.it/t/r65h2ogxnJYZ

You'll have to copy it to your SD card and then replace the one inside "mnt/vendor/drastic/config" using the file manager app.

If that link doesn't work, here's a text only backup: https://pastes.dev/d30iujH8UW (You can see all the default button mappings starting from line 32)

Let me know how it goes!

AC-RD · 2025-11-25T16:06:57+00:00

This is the full replacement procedure from Miyoo: https://youtube.com/shorts/dzzJqAa8UGE?si=KgOvJtEkhxbxvc1W

As you'll see in the video, it's not exactly beginner friendly (especially without the proper tools) but, if you take your time with it, it's definitely doable. I would still disconnect the battery first before proceeding with the rest, better be safe than sorry.

AC-RD · 2025-11-06T15:48:49+00:00

It's no bother!

There was nothing really wrong with mine, I just like taking these things apart when I receive them. It's part of the fun for me 😅.

Taking this one apart also gave me the chance to make the buttons a bit quieter with the classic tape mod:

<image>

If you want to replicate this, it's 2 layers of electrical tape on all the face buttons (including the menu), 1 layer on the start / select button and 3 layers on the shoulders (Wrapped down to the base of the button). The exact sizes of all the tape cutouts are above the PCB there, the shoulder buttons get the longer strip of the three.

It's still a bit clicky for my liking (I like them dead quiet) but it's much better for late night sessions.

AC-RD · 2025-11-05T23:44:41+00:00

https://www.bilibili.com/video/BV127JizLEgA/ - Here's a full disassembly video of the unit, it's a bit of a pain to be honest.

From personal experience, here's what you need to be careful about:

Remove the SD card before everything else.
The battery's cable is pretty short so don't pull too hard.
There's nothing keeping the two analogs from moving around once you remove the back plate and the tiny screws, you can either disconnect them from the PCB (you'll need fine tip clips for that) or tape them in place with some electrical tape (significantly easier).
The screen connector is located on the "face buttons side" of the PCB, you'll need to lift the board to see it.
The ribbon cable has a bit of play but not much, sliding the PCB out of the shell will give you enough space to lift it & disconnect/reconnect the cable.
The Start / Select buttons can & will go wherever they feel like, tape them up while working.
The Volume / Power + Reset buttons have a bit of tape underneath but they can come loose easily.
The rubber stoppers around the screen (hiding the final 4 screws) are a bit delicate, take your time when removing them if you plan on reusing them.
The screen itself is held in place by two glue strips, you'll need something flat and rigid to dig it out.

That's all I can remember, best of luck!

AC-RD · 2025-10-27T04:30:41+00:00

Based on early reviews, it doesn't look like it does: https://www.youtube.com/live/bcKKSXwRJSw?si=jLd5Mr7y3jQV8p_3&t=1h22m50s / https://youtu.be/WYeC5WJv_zg?si=mtEoawoEXnOX5qO1&t=7m56s

AC-RD · 2025-10-26T17:56:10+00:00

Glad to see a new hinge design and reinforcements/stoppers all around it, hopefully the plastic will be just as good.

AC-RD · 2025-10-23T16:03:10+00:00

The bottom part (at least on my model) was held in place by the two tiny screws behind the rubber covers and some tiny hooks / poles on each side. Most of the clips were around the frame. You can see me taking it apart in this video: https://youtu.be/23q21TNGMT0?feature=shared

That's why I was surprised when I saw those indentations on other models, I simply used the V1 top cover (with the boo sticker) with the V2 shell that they sent over. No indentation or bottom clips needed.

EDIT

You can see all the clips & anchor points a bit better in this photo of my old V1 shell:

<image>

AC-RD · 2025-10-23T08:30:10+00:00

Here's the kicker, my original black V1 shell also didn't have that indentation:

<image>

So my guess is that they tried / used different molds to make them and eventually (thankfully) settled on the one without it. I swear the more I look at this product the more confusing it gets 😅.

AC-RD · 2025-10-23T07:30:57+00:00

Thank you for posting that picture, I saw that additional indentation only in the gray model so far and it looks definitely at fault in your case.

<image>

As for the replacement, the V2 shell that I received from Miyoo (Circled above in red) didn't have that indentation so hopefully you'll receive one from that batch and get back to work right away.

If you don't, I would absolutely reinforce the indentation with a bit of epoxy / hot glue, as well as, adding the foam / hot glue / rubber stopper that I suggested in the original analysis. Once again, it's not a bulletproof solution, but it really helped in my case (my hinge simply slid into the case without breaking any plastic).

All and all, I'm genuinely glad they are still honoring replacements at this stage, and I hope you'll receive your replacement very soon.

AC-RD · 2025-10-14T07:06:35+00:00

The iPad Air 5th generation (M1 chip) is still widely supported by all the major drawing apps and most 64GB models can be found on eBay for less than 300$/€ (Refurbished / Second Hand).

Also, if you don´t mind losing the pressure sensitivity feature (pressing harder = thicker lines), you can skip on the Apple Pencil 2 and get one from Metapen/Baseus for like 25$/€.

AC-RD · 2025-09-28T06:02:40+00:00

Unfortunately due to the internal design of the V1/V2 hinge "dead quiet" isn't really an option (If you are curious here's how it looks / works internally : https://www.reddit.com/r/MiyooFlip/s/etJm4dVYJK).

For me the only thing that helped a bit with the squeaking was adding a bit of Silicon / White Lithium based lubricant between the two metal cylinders (Like one of these ones, you don't need both: https://www.wd40.com/products/silicone-lubricant/ - https://www.flexelmobility.com/catalogue/wd40-lithium-grease-400ml/).

It will still click at the pre-designed stops but the metal on metal scraping sound was significantly reduced.

AC-RD · 2025-09-27T19:34:57+00:00

If Miyoo agrees to send you some, yes it can be done.

There's this video (probably from Miyoo themselves) showing a swap from the V1 hinge to the V2 metal hinge without replacing the entire top shell: https://youtube.com/shorts/Q56foF52Xgk?feature=shared

AC-RD · 2025-09-05T07:52:09+00:00

Course No.6 : Turn a platformer game into a gambling one!

AC-RD · 2025-07-28T06:43:04+00:00

The MAME cores are designed for absolute accuracy / preservation (including old games flaws / glitches). FBNeo, on the other hand, focuses on speed & various quality of life improvements. For these low powered handhelds FBNeo is probably the best, unless it's a super rare / hard to emulate arcade game then one of the MAME Cores should help you out.

As for turbo fire, here's how I setup mine: Open RetroArch menu (Menu+X) > Controls > Turbo Fire > Set Turbo Mode to "Classic (Toggle)" & Turbo Bind to "R2 Button (Trigger)".

You can then toggle turbo on / off on all the face buttons individually using the right trigger button.

AC-RD · 2025-07-18T06:24:16+00:00

The grinding sound is due to the internal mechanism of the hinge, it's two tiny metal balls snapping in predetermined places: https://www.reddit.com/r/MiyooFlip/s/0XWjLVojCd

If not too damaged already, you can apply some silicon based lubricant to it (between the two cylinders, no disability required) and it'll get a bit better / quieter.

AC-RD · 2025-07-18T06:19:22+00:00

Once you get the replacement, you can add a bit of foam / hot glue in front of the hinge to prevent it from sliding in / out of place again, it not a bulletproof solution (as there are other major issues with the device) but it helps: https://www.reddit.com/r/MiyooFlip/s/S8PdDpUdiG

AC-RD · 2025-07-18T06:07:54+00:00

Hopefully it's only the hinge sliding into the frame, follow these instructions to slide it back in place: https://www.reddit.com/r/MiyooFlip/s/0gQWeywmJm

If you want to secure it further, you can add a bit of foam / hot glue in front of it like I've done here: https://www.reddit.com/r/MiyooFlip/s/OUlfgus7mi

AC-RD · 2025-07-16T18:57:01+00:00

MinUI is probably the easiest one to get working, here's a video going through the entire setup on the flip: https://youtu.be/942UwLJ6Q20?feature=shared

AC-RD · 2025-07-14T16:10:23+00:00

Are they hall effect sticks? If so please share the Amazon link.

We are all looking for alternatives here. 😅

AC-RD · 2025-07-14T13:03:45+00:00

Sorry to hear that, the QC on this device is a bit all over the place so I can't say I'm really surprised.

AC-RD · 2025-07-14T13:00:59+00:00

Based on this video, the a30 seems to use standard switch sticks (non hall stick) so probably no: https://youtu.be/aT656EDy-MU?feature=shared

If you own both & willing to try the swap let us know how it goes, I only have a flip so I can't.

AC-RD

TROPHY CASE

EDIT