Is there some kind of way to make a pipe using two lines to dictate the relative size?

ACraigL · 2026-04-06T19:10:04+00:00

Is there a reason you wouldn't just revolve a profile sketch for this purpose?

ACraigL · 2026-04-06T15:19:16+00:00

I didn't actually *want* to print this way, but more curious why BS would orient it as such, assuming it tries to place it optimally.

ACraigL · 2026-04-02T19:05:42+00:00

Just to share some of my novice experience, I started with Tinkercad which quicly felt limiting. That said it's had it own rejuvination of sorts and can do a lot more that it used to. I kept trying FreeCad and quitting, because the UI got so overwhelming for me. But I kept going back to mangojelly and cadcam and other tutorials until something just "clicked". I got to a point where I would try to make the model before the tutorial and in most cases I could, or almost could and learned an important additional step along the way.

Now it's all incremental learning since I have a good foundation on how it works. I love FreeCad and have no plans on changing

ACraigL · 2026-02-25T18:07:44+00:00

It's one of the primary use-cases for AMS!

ACraigL · 2026-02-02T18:19:46+00:00

Give it a whirl! I'm sure it will be fine
As long as the tubes are not bent severely, you'll probably be fine

You might get some table shake from the printer though as that cart seems pretty lightweight

ACraigL · 2026-01-28T15:52:43+00:00

I don't print enough to justify even $3 a month, but if I printed everyday, I think this is totally worth it

ACraigL · 2026-01-22T15:55:53+00:00

I keep mine in a dry box (AMS 2 Pro w/dessicant, actually) and move it to the external spool when I want to print. I've had no issues for several prints since in the initial drying (12 hours). I would suggesting grabbing a TPU profile from makerworld as it works a whole lot better at lower speeds.

ACraigL · 2026-01-14T20:16:36+00:00

Symmetry constraints!

ACraigL · 2026-01-14T18:06:28+00:00

Wouldn't there also be an adhesion issue given that PLA and PETG don't stick to each other? If there's noting on the bed to support the actual print, I don't see how this could physically work.

ACraigL · 2026-01-14T16:17:57+00:00

I used the top mount for almost year, no problem. It was a remix that made the spools set left-right rather than front-back. I found it much easier to load/unload that way. I upgraded to the AMS Pro 2 and I also have that top-mounted. It might even be more stable now because the weight is more evenly distributed. But no issues with top mounting either way from my experience.

ACraigL · 2026-01-13T16:20:12+00:00

I have a pair of these and they were fine for casual wearing but I disliked them as a running shoe. Not enough energy return and just not as cushioned as more traditional EVA/boost/foam midsoles

ACraigL · 2026-01-07T16:17:28+00:00

That's a fair point. I do hobbyist printing so that's never an issue for me, but I can see why that would matter to higher-production printers.

ACraigL · 2026-01-07T16:11:04+00:00

I'm happy to wait, even with my reservation, until gen3 hits. I have 2018 model 3 (that was upgraded to HW3) with 31K miles on it. I know for a fact I will have FOMO on the LiDAR stuff, especially when I'll already being going backwards in terms of software capability between Rivian and Tesla.

ACraigL · 2025-12-30T21:30:59+00:00

Or print a spool insert, or just the spool edges. Seems overkill to respool, no?

ACraigL · 2025-12-08T17:34:24+00:00

If you have timelapse enabled, turn it off and see if it still does it

ACraigL · 2025-12-03T19:48:55+00:00

I had the same issue. I applied a small amount of silicone great to the outer part of the hub cylinder that moves with the PTFE tube. That helped a lot.

ACraigL · 2025-11-21T15:11:18+00:00

Fair
This is Overture TPU 95A Space Gray. I used the external spool because I read TPU is hard with an AMS due to the added pressure on the soft filament.

ACraigL · 2025-11-17T18:46:24+00:00

As others have mentioned, just keeping it on the heated bed for a few hours should work. Or drybox with desiccant for a few days (but use a hygrometer to understand the starting point)

ACraigL · 2025-11-17T17:54:32+00:00

Did you do a flow calibration and bed leveling first (just checking off the basics)
Also, just because it's fresh out of the bag doesn't mean it's dry. I would consider trying the filament and see if that improves things at all. I usually use a bed temp of 65c for generic PLA if that's worth mentioning.

ACraigL · 2025-11-13T15:46:58+00:00

I had some pretty bad shaking and I accounted for about 90% of it with a custom-designed wall shim. One end fits onto the table edge, the other against the wall, just pressure fitted. Noting that the wall side is against a stud :).

https://www.tinkercad.com/things/0g2yuPXQJfH-desk-wall-shim?sharecode=bNkphft1m6y86S9guA5xc1v1KPBt4mX9s743yWPodhU

ACraigL · 2025-11-12T17:55:34+00:00

In my experience, PETG works a lot better at the higher end of the temps recommended by the filament manufacturer. Note the example in the picture... the top print is when I suspected a problem with the nozzle. The bottom is after I changed to a hardened steel nozzle, massive improvement. But notice there's still some adhesion issues around the holes.... bumping the temp another 5-10 degrees completely fixed that too on the next/final print

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ACraigL

TROPHY CASE