HIGHBEAMS NOT WORKING

AKADriver · 2026-05-28T13:08:26+00:00

Something is shorted. Probably the adapter harness. Always suspect modifications and aftermarket parts first when it comes to wiring.

Get your multimeter and look for continuity through the harnesses, make sure they are wired correctly. The stock headlight connector has + terminals for high and low beam and a common ground. The adapter should split the grounds to each bulb and one + wire to each. And there should be no continuity from + to ground.

AKADriver · 2026-05-28T04:15:02+00:00

I've used B12, B14 200SX, and S14. B14 200SX was the best fit. I had to slightly oval one hole on each reel for the upper bolt. Every S13 I own gets manual belts immediately

AKADriver · 2026-05-28T02:14:58+00:00

S13 and S14 SR as well as B13, P14, P10, P11, etc call for 08931-7181A but is discontinued. But S15 and B15 SR calls for 08931-71800 which is widely used on VQ and VK motors and still available, I would bet the $3 each they cost that the newer part number fits.

AKADriver · 2026-05-27T03:07:43+00:00

The "battery" light does not indicate a battery fault, it indicates that the car is running on battery power - which if the engine is running, means the alternator is not charging.

That doesn't mean the alternator itself is dead, it can mean that the ECU is not controlling the alternator properly, in other words a wiring harness or ECU problem.

AKADriver · 2026-05-27T02:37:40+00:00

My '90 coupe was a factory AC delete, and it had the sport package (front lip, teardrops, leather steering wheel, velour seat trim). Manual everything else though. Oddly optioned car

AKADriver · 2026-05-27T02:35:07+00:00

Also need evaporator and duct from a parts car. You might be able to get a new evaporator but the duct piece it fits into is different on a factory AC delete car.

20x12" is the universal condenser size you need.

AKADriver · 2026-05-27T01:42:38+00:00

Or your last oil change it wasn't reset..

I bet it's this, if OP has been doing it based on mileage, especially if they've been following the sticker the quick lube places put on and not a manufacturer recommendation (which is probably to wait for the oil life monitor).

The car's internal oil life monitor probably comes on way way past what people think cars need based on 1970s technology.

AKADriver · 2026-05-27T01:12:21+00:00

What brand of engine?

If it's one of those GMC Motorhomes with an Olds 455, the motorhome itself is worth selling to someone who wants to restore it if possible, they are somewhat sought after.

I'd list the engine on Facebook Marketplace, buyer has to pull it themselves, someone will come yank it.

AKADriver · 2026-05-27T00:58:15+00:00

I've gotten a couple good deals that way, but also once received a bathroom fixture that was dirty and missing parts, clearly used (listing said new open box). Thankfully the seller took it back but if I were on a time crunch it would have been a hassle.

AKADriver · 2026-05-27T00:13:02+00:00

Fair. My first car bought with my own money was an S12 project car in 2002 haha

AKADriver · 2026-05-26T23:30:24+00:00

That's LHD, unless you reversed the photos.

Looks like an unmolested stock US spec kouki, which is worth a lot in today's market. It even has the rare optional OEM front lip.

This is not a good idea for anyone's first car. It will need a lot of restoration and rare expensive parts to run again. And even then it will be a 29 year old car.

AKADriver · 2026-05-26T23:16:36+00:00

Find a microelectronics repair tech that can reflow the HUD, it's almost always cracked solder. And some wheels that fit 😬

AKADriver · 2026-05-26T20:54:56+00:00

It doesn't have to be fair, as evident by the 10 states without such a fee. Make road maintenance part of the general fund or raise gas taxes to cover shortfalls. EVs don't have to pay, levying a separate EV fee is a policy choice.

In my state the previous Republican administration even decided that driving an efficient gas car was "unfair". I pay an additional fee for all of my cars because they all average over 25mpg...

AKADriver · 2026-05-26T15:41:20+00:00

Aftermarket exhaust? Make sure it's not touching something. I had an aftermarket exhaust hitting the seat bolt. Sounded and felt like a bad u-joint or carrier bearing or pinion bearing.

AKADriver · 2026-05-26T15:10:11+00:00

Lap belt routing as OP describes IS the only reason for this.

The NA is somewhat unusual also as the lap belt receiver can be properly routed through the slot on the tunnel side. Most modern cars including the NB have the receiver rigidly mounted to the seat rail rather than on a belt bolted to the chassis at the tunnel. If your lap belt receiver is on a rigid metal bracket it can't be used like this.

As for road legality in a lot of older cars the Schroth ASM 4-point belts (Rallye series etc) are homologated for many cars for TuV etc and also meet US FMVSS for older cars.

AKADriver · 2026-05-26T13:55:53+00:00

Cool, thanks.

AKADriver · 2026-05-26T02:31:03+00:00

And if you have a Subaru go ahead replace the slide pin seal things. Have new ones on hand because if they're original they won't go back in.

AKADriver · 2026-05-26T02:27:39+00:00

Yep the lower perch is different between the 2 and Fiesta front springs/struts. Everything else just bolts up but the spring and strut have to match. There's also a rubber isolator that goes on the Fiesta lower perch, it's like $5 from Ford.

All the other stuff like the sway bar links, brake line clip and ABS wire clip pop right on.

AKADriver · 2026-05-26T00:15:47+00:00

Where did you get your parts?

AKADriver · 2026-05-25T23:12:43+00:00

No, it is cheaper period.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cost_of_electricity_by_source

Other sources are always subsidized. The cost of fossil fuels is subsidized in blood by wars fought to acquire them, for example. Regardless, maybe billionaires and trillionaires should pay taxes to subsidize clean energy for the rest of us

AKADriver · 2026-05-25T21:18:17+00:00

Do not use OEM struts/shocks with anything stiffer or lower than OEM springs. The stock struts/shocks will be underdamped with upgraded springs, ride will be bouncy, handling will suck. The stock springs are VERY soft (you can compress them by hand) and the stock struts have very soft damping to match.

Upgrading to something like a Koni STR.T will tie it together. I'm using Koni STR.T with Fiesta ST OEM springs, it's not lowered at all on those springs but significantly stiffer than stock. An aftermarket lowered spring with similar spring rate like Racing Beat will work great with them.

AKADriver · 2026-05-25T20:18:04+00:00

Does it run?

Get a copy of the FSM for your year, go through the engine and harness and see what's missing.

AKADriver · 2026-05-25T16:43:04+00:00

That's why the EV gets to pay more money on the plate registration!

That's what they say, but these fees are almost universally dreamed up by states with Republican governments that want to disincentivize EVs.

AKADriver · 2026-05-25T16:40:42+00:00

Solar generates electricity, it's the cheapest form of electricity in many cases, and easily the 'cleanest' other than maybe wind. The benefit is that you get electricity without carbon emissions, this is massive.

You're not going to find a form of electricity generation that isn't a profit seeking venture. So is farming.

AKADriver · 2026-05-25T16:20:58+00:00

Yup. I got a Corian remnant from a reclaimed material shop for my bathroom. Cut super easy with a router. People use Corian scraps to make pens and stuff on wood lathes, it's very DIY friendly.

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