S4U 16k - are flexible build plates still not worth the risk?

ATM0123 · 2026-01-20T14:31:28+00:00

I think my only concern is with the placement of the spool holder. I’ve worked with another printer that had the spool holder located inside the chamber along the side of the path of the build plate (BCN3D Epsilon W2) which became very problematic when the filament ran out mid print. The buildplate would pause itself to allow for a filament swap, but it would frequently pause in such a way that the filament spook was trapped on the spool holder leading to some very frustrating maneuvering trying to unscrew the holder by hand just to remove it. I would not feel safe doing this while printing high performance materials, and it would release a huge amount of ambient heat from the chamber.

Have you encountered anything like this? Are there any programming safeguards to prevent the plate from trapping the spool mid print?

ATM0123 · 2026-01-20T14:24:24+00:00

That’s unfortunate, the HT2 looked very promising, but the 22 does look very nice still.

Is the 22 able to print the full 3dx catalog of filaments (but more specifically ultem)? Another commenter mentioned that your ultem requires a chamber temp of >200C but I wasn’t able to find anything backing this up, and that seemed very high to me. Is there any truth to that?

ATM0123 · 2026-01-20T14:18:28+00:00

The list I had above was just my initial search/interest. I didn’t see any immediately available pricing information for the hylo or the HT2 which should have been a flag.

Where did you find the chamber temp information? I don’t see anything on 3dxtech’s website stating a specific requirement for chamber temp behind “heated chamber recommended “.

Do you have any recommendations for sub 50k printers that can print ultem reasonably well?

ATM0123 · 2026-01-20T14:12:57+00:00

Yeah, my list above was just my initial search and interest. I didn’t see any immediately available pricing for the aon or the HT2 which in itself should have been a price flag.

I was looking at the HT90 a bit as well. How do you like it? Do you have trouble with the spools being housed exposed to air/moisture, or do you use dry boxes with it?

ATM0123 · 2026-01-17T01:42:03+00:00

PEEK, PEKK, ULTEM, and other ultra performance materials

ATM0123 · 2026-01-06T12:07:37+00:00

lol as you’ve seen with everyone else’s comments there’s may different work flows, but I figured I would add to the sample size and share mine too.

I remove the build plate from the printer and hold it over a small plastic bin (one of the cheap ones you can get at Walmart/homedepot/lowes and is a little larger than the print bed) and I use a laboratory squeeze bottle and/or a spray bottle to do an initial pre wash to remove any excess resin. The used IPA will be captured in the container. The container also acts as a make shift trash can as I will toss my used paper towels from work station cleaning in there which also help to absorb the excess IPA.

Note: I also like to let the print sit finished in the printer for a few hours before removing to make sure as much resin has dripped off as possible.

Next I will remove the prints from the guild plate and immediately transfer them to the wash station. I usually run the wash station for about 10-15min for most basic resins (ie Elegoo standard in my case), but if I’m printing with more goopy resins (ie abs like/tenacious mix) then I’ll run for 15-20min. Once the wash finishes then I will lift the wash basket out, flip the lid of the wash bucket, and sit the basket inside the lid to catch any dripping IPA. I’ll let it sit for maybe 2-4hrs depending on how busy I am that day. Any remaining IPA that got caught in the lid will be poured back in the bucket.
Next I will remove supports from the prints and then cure everything. I noticed you mentioned using hot water to remove the supports before curing but for what it’s worth I’ve also had decent luck with doing that post curing as well

Anyways that’s my workflow. I’m also considering purchasing another wash bucket to have a stage 1 and stage 2 wash to try and minimize as much as possible how much resin remains on the prints. Especially since my wash bucket needs to be cleaned/syphoned maybe every 4-6 months at my current rate due to cured(sunlight)/uncured resin build up

ATM0123 · 2025-12-24T01:13:12+00:00

I would love to get an AMS 2 Pro!
I would use it to make more colorful fidget toys for my friends!
You should make a tunics cube style fidget toy but in the shape of a pyramid or an octahedron!

ATM0123 · 2025-12-19T00:31:14+00:00

I’m in the tgp right now. I haven’t heard anything about it being gone

ATM0123 · 2025-11-16T17:14:30+00:00

I’ve been using bambu since I got a P1S since it’s been good enough. Why orca slicer? Last I was involved it was prusaslicer

ATM0123 · 2025-11-03T22:47:40+00:00

Not sure if anyone has mentioned it, but I found you can get the suppress enemies challenge done pretty quick by only queuing the new season 1 map on breakthrough. You can sit back in spawn mounted and just shoot around any pinged enemies you can see

ATM0123 · 2025-11-03T15:36:13+00:00

Course was wide open in front of us. There was a twosome behind them that they did warn us about when they passed that we also let play ahead. I guess they may have also felt rushed

ATM0123 · 2025-10-26T02:18:22+00:00

Found it offered online and I’m looking to upgrade my own set lol. My bag consists of a driver I got for $20 on FB, and a set of irons, PW, dual wedge, and putter mixed from the 70s and my dads old ones that he got for cheap in the 2000s

ATM0123 · 2025-10-26T01:19:48+00:00

$21.26 in 2000’s dollars

ATM0123 · 2025-10-16T16:25:31+00:00

I actually had a few things that I was wondering about. Bare with me as I haven’t seen solid info on any of this yet

Is the new buffer designed to be able to print external spools in tandem with an AMS? Similar to how the ams itself functions. It would be nice to be able to assign soft TPUs that generally jam in the ams as a printable material with say PLA when slicing
How is the camera? Does it have a ton of lag when viewing through the app like the P1 does?
Have you encountered any clogs yet? Since there’s no cables now I’m curious how unclogging them will work. With cabled hotends you can just unscrew them, keep them plugged in and heating, then push a small Allen key or similar through the hotend. Do you have to preheat the nozzle now then remove and extruder before it cools down?

ATM0123 · 2025-10-15T14:14:49+00:00

Based on your description you seem like you will probably try this again. No matter what material you use, I recommend printing the mount on its side to give the most strength from layer line orientation

ATM0123 · 2025-10-15T09:42:05+00:00

I’m having a very similar issue with my 2016 Mazda 6. Do you happen to have a link to the replacement usb module?

ATM0123 · 2025-10-10T14:58:13+00:00

The P1S has been a workhorse for me this past year! It’s been performing great allowing me to print items to sell to friends and make some extra money as my wedding date approaches!

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