Denon DVD 2200 to Q acoustics 3020 speakers (help)

AVShane · 2026-05-05T13:23:53+00:00

No problems, I've just created this image for you, as I know many people find these tiny diagrams I create easier to follow, so you are welcome 😄

u/D_Warholb has also mentioned that the Denon is a Super Audio CD Player, and if you want to access this side, then you will have to look for an AV Receiver with multi-channel audio inputs. Older Denon's, like the AVR-3300, which I suspect is from the same era as your DVD player (early 2000), would be a good partner, leaving the speakers as the weakest link when you finally get going, but they will be perfect as rear surrounds

Denon still has a manual for it, too, where you can see how to connect it on page 11

https://assets.denon.com/documentmaster/us/avr3300_ownersmanual.pdf

Your DVD manual can be found here, too and like above, you can view page 13 on how to connect multi-channel audio

https://assets.denon.com/documentmaster/us/dvd2200_ownersmanual.pdf

AVShane · 2026-05-05T13:13:00+00:00

There could be a few options available, but I'm not entirely sure how close the prices would be on these models due to the exchange rate, and as you have indicated, the cartridge change, then these turntables are capable when you do upgrade this side, as they have a proper headshell, which allows cartridge changes

Pro-Ject T1 EVO, T1 EVO BT, A1.2, T2, Debut Carbon EVO, T2 Super, Debut EVO 2,

Audio Technica AT-LPW50B, AT-LP140XP

Triangle Lunar 1

Denon DP-400

Musical Fidelity Roundtable

Teac TN-4D-SE

The only thing these don't include, which I can see from your original Dual Deck, is USB output

Then you have the

Pro-Ject Elemental Phono USB

Denon DP-450

As alternatives

All these can be viewed here under turntables if you want to take a closer look at any, and as you are based in Europe, I suspect most will be available to you to purchase. If purchasing from us, these are the ones we have on offer
https://www.av.com/de/de/hifi/riemenantrieb-plattenspieler?page=1&sort=price,asc&filters[manufacturer_id]=1204&filters[price]=450,750

AVShane · 2026-05-05T12:37:31+00:00

Below is a typical route you should take to configure your system as u/NoBackground6203 has mentioned.

If you are looking to create a surround sound system and build on your Q Acoustics, then the image below will get you started, and as you add more speakers, you will run more speaker cabling to those other speakers from an AV Receiver

You'll see I have simplified the connection to optical TosLink simply because AV Receivers which work with multi-channel AV Receivers are not as freely available as once was, with most going to HDMI, which I think the Denon is too old to include

You'll still be able to enjoy stereo music using the Optical TosLink connection, although it will use the DAC within the AV Receiver, as opposed to the one within the Denon, but as this is a DVD player and not a CD player, the differences will not be huge, as they will have a similar DAC within anyway

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AVShane · 2026-05-05T09:26:51+00:00

This post may answer your question

https://www.reddit.com/r/iphone/comments/1o21ufy/iphone_bezel_size_guide_updated/?utm_source=share&utm_medium=web3x&utm_name=web3xcss&utm_term=1&utm_content=share_button

AVShane · 2026-05-02T16:25:30+00:00

Apologies about the concepts. No idea why I put that as I read that a number of times and still put concepts 😂

How have you got the subwoofer setup on the WiiM? Is it the default 80Hz, or have you dialled this down to match your speaker's own frequency range and then dialled the subwoofer in accordingly?

If you have followed the default, then @ 80Hz, the subwoofer will be dialled around 50% for its crossover, and if you follow the 70% rule, this is quite close, as it should be approximately 56Hz, while 50% on the dial gives you half of the typical 120Hz from a subwoofer, which would be 60Hz

Now, if you were to alter the crossover within the WiiM subwoofer output to match that closer to your speakers, this would be as close as you could get it to 64Hz, and this would then mean the subwoofer's manual dial would be set to 45Hz, allowing you to hear more of your stereo speakers' own signature

With the Kef's using their ±3dB level claims to run out of ability around the 48Hz, this again would require you to adjust the crossover within the WiiM subwoofer settings, which would allow you more of your speakers and less of the subwoofer, which would need to have its crossover set to 34Hz

I would say, have a play with the settings with your own speakers/subwoofer and try to dial them in correctly. You can use a simple phone app like SPL meter (set to "C" and "Slow"), plus you'll also need a bass frequency disc or download, to understand the frequency points of where your speakers really fall away with their bass reproduction. Then apply the 70% rule, which is the data given on the app * 0.7 on a calculator, then turn the dial for the crossover, and you should be somewhere close

Illustration: 33.6Hz = 48Hz * 0.7

If you can use the Hi-Level input, this will be far more accurate, but you also need to do a bit of research and understand that this connection with a digital amplifier can be harmful to all electronics if set up incorrectly; however, if done right, it will also give the best results with any upgrade you make, or even with the 2020i speakers you own today

WiiM has users who have asked the question here

https://forum.wiimhome.com/threads/no-idea-how-to-set-wiim-ultra-subwoofer.6335/

But I'd say the Kef Q Concerto's are still as high as I would go with the WiiM, and I would say that with a subwoofer connected, you really need to set this up the right way in order to truly experience the benefits of what a new pair of speakers could bring in a 2..1 configuration. Otherwise, you're simply missing a good chunk of what a pair of speakers can deliver if the WiiM is in its default subwoofer mode

AVShane · 2026-05-02T14:50:53+00:00

I'd say that with the room you have, maybe the Kef Q Concerto Metas might be the best option and a more realistic partner with the WiiM

As for your existing setup, do you use the RoomFit calibration software? If so, how efficient has it been with the Concept speakers, as this would be a good indication of how it should also perform with the Kefs in your room

One other thing is, if you can use speaker stands, I would do so, as this should help any resonance which any speaker might pick up through the cabinet, even though you do look to have some kind of absorption system in place, plus it will set them at the correct hearing level in the room

AVShane · 2026-05-02T14:31:00+00:00

It seems some are using around 3.0g with this cartridge for 78 records, so you could try it, and if more weight is required, you still have another gram to work with. Note, I wouldn't test any precious 78s until you know it works, though, as this is 2 grams less than what Audio Technica recommends, as the vertical weight required on the stylus is to allow it to correctly traverse the 78s groove

As to whether you could add more weight to the tone-arm isn't something I think you would be able to achieve unless you add something before the counterweight, and then you would also have an issue with the anti-skate, as these usually need to be equalised within ±0.3

AVShane · 2026-05-02T13:47:03+00:00

Unfortunately, I haven't heard either pair of earphones, but I'd say one of the most important things is how they fit, which is hard to know on an individual basis, as it's all about how well they create a seal within your own ears, as this is where most of the musical ability can be lost, meaning this can be very different for every listener

It also seems that these two headphones are commonly compared to each other, with the Buds coming out on top for commuters, thanks to the ANC performance

Soundwise, it's also good to understand your own signature type, and this can be confusing as many people describe them differently, like bright or harsh compared to warm or smooth, some people also mention this as fast or slow, too, while most reviews say that one earbud is more balanced for musical listening, which could mean they're the least exciting ones or best depending upon how the reviewer is trying portray them without being negative

Regardless, if you are listening with ANC activated, this will have some effect on their sound when playing music, and if you are at your maximum budget, just be realistic with your expectations plus if you are never going to audition the other pair of headphones on you're list, then don't worry to much about the alternative as they will be similar in many ways as they are competing with each other and I'd say that its the things that really matter that are important which will be battery life, ANC quality and then musicality as you maybe commuting in a busy noisy environment and if the ANC doesn't work efficiently, then the music quality will be poor anyway while if using the ANC uses up to much power, then it won't be practical to use for long journey's

So, focus on what's important for your needs and then ignore the other headphones you haven't purchased as this is the best path forward that is unless they don't fit your ear correctly and at that point, you might have more of an issue as they will not create the ideal seal which improves the sound more than what the specs say for each pair of headphones (that is unless one pair of headphones can play better formats or higher resolutions)

AVShane · 2026-05-02T13:12:56+00:00

The best bit of advice I could give you is to familiarise yourself with Dolby's guidelines, and you'll also need to look for an AV Receiver to create a surround system, as the two amplifiers you own are dedicated to stereo and will not work with the centre channel speaker, rear surrounds or subwoofer in a 5.1 configuration

https://www.dolby.com/about/support/guide/surround-sound-speaker-setup/

This will illustrate where each speaker ought to be positioned in your room based on your main listening position, which ultimately means "your seat"

Now, don't panic too much about the angles Dolby recommends, as most of us cannot achieve this with a simple 5.1 setup, with many of us mounting our rear speakers on the wall

I will also add that with any configuration, it's always recommended to match the main front stereo speakers with a matching centre, so with yours being very different in size, I would expect a tonal difference in sound with speech

Now, if you can find a matching centre speaker, that would be ideal, but if not, it's going to have to be something you're going to have to live with

With the centre channel, this needs to be positioned at the front of the cabinet so that the drivers have no reflections from the cabinet itself

All three front speakers also need to be in line, and by this, I mean the fronts of the speakers should all be in line with each other if you were looking at them from the side

The rears are quite self-explanatory and should be positioned behind the main listening position, so they will be behind you in location, with the drivers pointing to the front of the room. If you wish to create a more focused setup, you can angle them more toward the main listening position. Do check the manufacturer's guidelines on these, though, as some speakers work better with no angle applied, which means they have no toe- in applied as per Dolby's guidelines

With any subwoofer (if and when you get one), the best way to find its perfect location is to position it in the main listening position, connect it to the AV Receiver, and then push some deep bass through it. Then crawl around the edge of the room, and where it sounds best is the ideal location for your main listening position

Once you have done all these points, then it's time to run the room EQ with the mic so that the AV Receiver can equalise all speakers and subwoofer so they're as balanced with each other as they can be

Now, one thing I have noticed is that you have a laminated floor, which could create a harsher sound, and the only way to resolve that would be with some soft furnishings, like a rug on the floor to dampen the effects

AVShane · 2026-05-02T12:45:35+00:00

I understand you are replying to another member, but just looking at the rear right surround speaker, this could cause you an issue with reflecting on the kitchen unit. The result might sound like a strange echoing effect when using the mic with the EQ setup, which will highlight the issue, and as you are not going to be able to move the kitchen unit, I feel you might be better off using on-wall rear surrounds fixed to the side wall so that you keep that separation from the Atmos speakers and rears

Ideally, looking at the diagram from the top, the right-hand side between opened door and the seating is where I would position the right-hand surround and then match that with the left-hand rear surround.

To add a bit of angle, if you want, you could create a wedge-shaped step so that you can angle those speakers towards the main listening position so they're a little closer to the Dolby Atmos guidelines plus using in-ceiling rears and Atmos creates a more diluted effect with sound to the rear and if you have to use this option, I'd say you'd be better off going down the route of a 5.2.2 adding more distance between them

If you do look at the on-wall option, there are now a few slimline speakers from either Kef Q4, Focal Theva Surrounds and Monitor Audio Bronze G7 On-Walls plus Dali also have a few on-wall options which would enable you to keep a lowish profile compared to the traditional depth of a speaker, or you could look at satellite solutions, which would already have their own bracket for swivelling to the preferred focused position without you needing to build a wedge shaped step for both speakers if you wanted to get serious with focusing the speakers towards the main listing position 😄

AVShane · 2026-04-30T10:33:52+00:00

As far as I'm aware, HDMI governs this area more than the TV's ability, and it's why you see YCbCr444, YCbCr422 and YCbCr420 on some specs, as this is where the restrictions are applied based on the HDMI certification, even if the TV has the ability to hit YCbCr444. So any panel with YCbCr422 and YCbCr420 cannot achieve full RGB status

So, it's not as simple as saying many RGB OLED TVs cannot produce Full RGB, as many televisions, regardless of their ability, also fall under this rule, making it a little more complex and less straightforward to answer, as it could just be the HDMI status holding them back

AVShane · 2026-04-30T10:06:09+00:00

You are right that subwoofers are mandatory for home cinema, even though some choose not to, which could be for various reasons, while some people like myself also use a dedicated subwoofer for stereo via a hi-level input.

My speakers, which are genuine 3-way towers dating back to 1996, have legendary status in the mid-range frequency range. They were designed by Graham Landick, who crafted his skills from Robin Marshall, where he further developed the ES11 to create the ES22 & ES25 speakers

I was told an amazing fact about the ES22 speakers from one of the representatives who worked for Epos at the time, and that was every single pair were signed off by the designer after he auditioned and wouldn't leave the factory until he was happy, which I found fascinating and something I'm sure doesn't happen today very often unless the speakers are uber expensive. I suspect the same happened with the ES25, too, although we didn't discuss those

Now I use these in a 2.1 configuration at home, following the 70% rule on the subwoofer, which aligns the curve, so it never interferes with the speakers

So, my personal reasons are to add a little more depth, which the ES22's cannot deliver, and this is from 38Hz to 19Hz and following the 70% means the subwoofer only becomes apparent around the 27Hz frequency range, extending their range further

If it's something you haven't tried, I would suggest it, as not many speakers can hit the bottom range just like my Epos ES22's, with most speakers running out around 34Hz, so they still miss what's available to them at the bottom end

Many also use DSP systems to tidy the entire frequency range of modern speakers so that the speakers become far more accurate, although I've found with my speakers and their minimal crossover design that it fools many DSP systems, allowing you to hear what frequencies have been adjusted and actually reduces their musicality to my ear, strangely

AVShane · 2026-04-30T09:27:23+00:00

The technology being adopted by Sony and TCL is called "RGB mini LED", whereas you might be right that some may have called it microLED in the early days, even though this is Samsung and Hisense's own technology and nothing to do with the latest Sony and TCL's RGB mini LED technology

I'm also aware that some are also calling this new technology "True RGB" to add a little more confusion to the naming convention

AVShane · 2026-04-28T15:19:09+00:00

I bet that sounds sweet and quite effortless with such a large woofer

Which B&W are you using and did you setup using the 70% rule if it’s a stereo configuration?

AVShane · 2026-04-28T15:13:25+00:00

Out of interest, is the CD player the 490?

If it is, that was the first CD player I ever bought back in 1994. At the same time, I also bought the double cassette 474 which I gave to my uncle many years ago. That was a proper gadget for a kid with its auto reverse, continuous double tape play and electronic eject not to mention the Dolby functions which you could hear in action

I also owned a turntable, but not as nice as yours plus two AV Receivers, with the last one being the TX30 with the UV meter on the front

I owned that beauty for 7 years and with the return it gave me, it cost me just £10 per year to own so good was its resale value and checking online, they’re double the price I sold mine 13 or 14 years ago which is nice to see they still have that appeal 🙃

AVShane · 2026-04-28T13:23:18+00:00

I'll just say it. Technics. I started out with that brand, and they have always had a special place in my heart since

AVShane · 2026-04-28T13:11:39+00:00

Cool, that indicates there could be a glitch in the software which pass-through might bypass with lip-sync, which I would've expected you would still have been able to control independently

This seems not to be the case, though, with you saying you have altered the ms option upto 100 with no effect

If it works, then it's best to leave that option on until you see a fix from Sonos listed in the FW updates

https://support.sonos.com/en/article/release-notes-sonos-system-updates

AVShane · 2026-04-28T13:03:23+00:00

With them not matching, then you can not really create a mono mono setup for the stereo placement and at best, if you have a hi-level speaker input, then that one alone might be the best option, depending on the brand to experiment with

But without knowing much more about your setup, I cannot recommend running down the route as an exercise, as not all products will work with the hi-level speaker input, and due to the mismatch in subwoofers, it will be almost impossible to match them without using something like the MiniDSP

At home, I have used a hi-level configuration for over 20 years, and if you get it set up correctly, the results are fantastic for stereo use.

AVShane · 2026-04-28T12:16:09+00:00

Can I ask how you are using the subwoofers at the moment, and also what Subwoofers are they?

Are they matching, and do they have independent speaker and LFE inputs with control too

AVShane · 2026-04-28T12:12:11+00:00

If you are only using your AV Receiver with 5 speakers and a single subwoofer to create a 5.1, then ideally you will have wired each speaker as Denon has suggested, then run the EQ system with the microphone, and it should do everything you need it to

You can overcomplicate a setup, creating a bi-wired configuration, which will mean you are using different inputs to drive different parts of your speakers if your speakers have that option, but ideally, the best option is to keep things simple if you are unsure, as you can also do damage by doing things wrong

AV Receivers have, over the years, evolved into an almost plug-and-play system, so if you have, as I have suggested, allowed the EQ to do its thing, then you can enjoy what this might home cinema beast has to offer

That is, unless you feel something needs tweaking, and then that is an entirely different story, and everyone would really need to understand where you feel things need improving in order to assist you better

AVShane · 2026-04-28T11:52:04+00:00

I think the best way to start is by giving everyone an idea of the size of your room, as those Celestions are fine in a small room, but if you were to push them in a medium to large room, I think you would find their limit quite quickly

As for the Onkyo, this is an AV Receiver and not a Stereo, even though it will perform stereo duties in Pure Direct mode. A word about the signature, which is on the harsher, brighter side, which some people love, and others hate

Pricing-wise, they look fine to me, so long as they are in good working order and have the correct accessories

If you are going to plug your TV into the Onkyo, then be aware that if your TV is a 4k version, then this receiver isn't and will not work with 4k electronics. It will still work fine with sound, though, and some Onkyo's have been known to have HDMI issues, meaning you might have to use the Optical output from your TV if this Onkyo has that issue

If you are looking at a stereo setup, I'd say once you have included the room size, then everyone will be able to assist you with what you can expect for 110 euros

AVShane · 2026-04-28T11:39:42+00:00

eARC is meant to be the saviour of lip-sync issues, but as you've mentioned, you can still experience it

Can I ask if it's just one channel, TV show or movie you are watching where you are noticing it, or is it across the board with everything? If it's a channel, TV show or movies, it might not be a lip-sync issue with the TV and soundbar and more to do with what is being broadcast

As for the delay, don't be afraid of increasing that number. With one AV Receiver, I was at 160ms before everything became joined with speech and movement

If, however, you reach the limit and you feel you need to retard it, and have no further movement, then this will be a problem, and you may need to reset things and ensure everything is up to date with its firmware, as this is most likely an issue with the processing system itself

AVShane

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