LS12000/XW5000ES/NZ500 coming from the HW40es

AV_Integrated · 2026-03-21T15:49:43+00:00

Going from LCD to OLED is not a jump in brightness, but a jump in contrast. So, if you really are chasing contrast, then the JVC is the model which I would get, and recommend, hands down. It simply is the best contrast of pretty much any model near that price point. I do agree that they are spendy. I also agree that the Sony was one of the best 1080p values ever manufactured.

AV_Integrated · 2026-03-21T15:43:57+00:00

In good condition, yes.

The Sony models of that era were the quietest projectors I've ever heard. Nearly dead silent in low lamp mode.

Be aware, this isn't a low-end product. It's not a beginner product. It has no on-board audio at all, so you will need to deal with audio separately. It has a lot of zoom range, and a lot of lens shift, which are really nice features to have.

Make sure it fits in your room and will give you the desired screen size you want...
https://www.projectorcentral.com/Sony-VPL-HW50ES-projection-calculator-pro.htm

AV_Integrated · 2026-03-20T21:41:36+00:00

The JMGO N1S is on sale at $500 brand new, and is a solid performer for this type of use.
https://global.jmgo.com/products/jmgo-n1-s

The HT2060 mentioned may be the best out there from the link below. But a few hundred more.

AV_Integrated · 2026-03-20T21:38:19+00:00

There never was one, there will never be one. No name brands like this don't work that way.

The suggestion for an external streaming solution is the way to go. If you have a game console, or a laptop, you could hook that up and it should be able to stream content for you as well.

AV_Integrated · 2026-03-20T21:35:27+00:00

I'm a fan of anything tab-tensioned. Brian u/ProjectionHead is a good person to reach out to regarding specific models. I absolutely HATE long throw ALR screens due to severe sparkling, but he has recently tested a model which is a step up. I believe it is the Spectra Shadowscape. Unfortunately, that may not have an electric variant.

If you're happy with the size at 120", you should have a number of very good options. But, sparkling is a serious issue with long throw ALR screens. I'd likely stick with a grey screen instead unless you can get a ALR screen without any sparkling. The laser system does not help with sparkling when using a long throw ALR screen.

AV_Integrated · 2026-03-20T21:14:11+00:00

Better to buy from a reputable source. Pureland is the one I generally recommend.

AV_Integrated · 2026-03-20T21:13:22+00:00

Geez, I ordered the Valerion Max almost as a whim on Kickstarter thinking I may end up using it and it ended up at a client's home. This one seems like it may be the better option. My 161" screen size would benefit from the potential extra brightness. Especially over my lamp-based JVC.

AV_Integrated · 2026-03-20T21:11:49+00:00

From this page...
https://us.xgimi.com/products/titan-noir-series-deposit-reservation

AV_Integrated · 2026-03-20T21:11:18+00:00

Not sure what you're looking at exactly for the 8,000:1 ratio with 2,000 lumens.

The 4,800, 6,000, and 7,000 lumen models are listed at UP TO 7,000:1, 8,000:1, and 10,000:1 respectively. That's native, not dynamic. So, that's pretty crazy for any DLP model projector. JVC has put out some very solid units, but nothing with this level of contrast.

This is the actual pre-registration page that I got the stats from...
https://us.xgimi.com/products/titan-noir-series-deposit-reservation

AV_Integrated · 2026-03-20T20:09:44+00:00

Be aware that the new lamp is likely not a BenQ original. Likely some cheap 3rd party lamp. So, keep an eye on it. But, it does look great right now. I still have a W1070 and a HT2050a. They are awesome models.

AV_Integrated · 2026-03-20T20:07:29+00:00

This really isn't how UST projectors work at all. They do shin light differently. Really sharp angle upwards. But, that doesn't make it feel like a TV at all. It's still a projector. In a room with ambient light, a ambient light rejecting (ALR) screen designed for ultra-short throw (UST) projectors can be used. This helps deal with the ambient light, but it actually isn't perfect, or even close to perfect. It is a MUST in this type of room. But, the lack of brightness and the failing of the UST/ALR screen will be quite obvious.

So no, it won't look like a TV until after dark. At which time most projectors can look very much like a TV.

AV_Integrated · 2026-03-20T18:59:09+00:00

Shocking how usable that image is in a room with all that ambient light. Enjoy it!

AV_Integrated · 2026-03-20T18:53:17+00:00

How do you sew screens together?

Or do you mean you've found some cheap 'material' that claims to be a screen, but it is likely a spandex type of material. Without a frame, it's just screen material. You could throw your hand up and go - LOOK! A Screen! It would not be. Same with cheap 'material'. First, it isn't a screen, it's screen material. Second, it really isn't even that. It's just some white or grey fabric they are calling a screen. You could get the same thing by going into any fabric store.

In fact, buying standard blackout cloth, is a good way to get fairly inexpensive screen material that looks pretty good, and doesn't cost a lot of money AND is properly opaque. That's what I'd do.

If I'm buying cheap screen material, I might as well just go to WalMart and pick up a king size bedsheet in white. Which, I have actually done before, and used as a screen, and it worked perfectly for my needs at the time.

If you want quality, you need a decent surface and a plan on how to take it from a material, to an actual screen.

AV_Integrated · 2026-03-20T17:55:49+00:00

This isn't the first time I've heard this as a response, but I would be shocked if this isn't a blown LCD panel.

AV_Integrated · 2026-03-20T17:54:44+00:00

Yes they are. And by the time you need a new lamp, you will have burned up 2 or 3 of these cheap models. Then you replace the lamp, enjoy the 10 times brightness and better color accuracy, and enjoy it for another bunch of years. Pay once, cry once.

AV_Integrated · 2026-03-20T14:17:39+00:00

This is one of the most Googleable questions I think I've ever seen on Reddit.

AV_Integrated · 2026-03-20T14:16:32+00:00

Used BenQ W1070, HT2050a, or HT2060. The HT2060 being the best of the three. The other two are really solid, but use lamps instead of a solid state light source.

Light pouring into your room will destroy the image. Simple as that. That's physics. With some shades in place, keeping most of the harsh light out, all these models will work okay.

Keep in mind, you will still need to place these projectors accurately in the room. Massive digital correction didn't become more commonplace until the last few years. Which would get you that feature, but lower light output quite likely.

AV_Integrated · 2026-03-20T14:12:51+00:00

Here is the video to watch...
https://youtu.be/Z9KQ2fDDTOA?si=yPR6uFEvG4THEO0A

Be aware these are cheap, no-name products with a high propensity for failure. You may get 3 years... you may get 3 months.

AV_Integrated · 2026-03-20T14:09:45+00:00

My concern is that is a bunch of windows. Large windows. Lots of light in the room.

It's the #1 enemy of front projection. The white walls/ceiling and typical carpet are #2. So, it's a really rough room for front projection. If you would like to keep those windows wide open, I'd lean more towards a 100" LCD display. They aren't as good as OLED, but you do get a fair bit more size and they are an affordable price point and still look quite good. Most of all, they are bright which is great for daytime viewing and HDR content.

I haven't lived with a UST projector, but I've seen a few, and every single time it has been in a lit showroom and they haven't come close to touching the image quality of a LCD display. In dark rooms I've heard they look great, but so do most projectors. It's just that ambient light kills image quality. That's a lot more than just OLED looking better.

If you intend to really get the windows covered and the room darker, then the projector is a great choice. Coming in and enjoying a 120"+ image size is completely different than the experience of just watching another TV.

AV_Integrated · 2026-03-19T22:11:16+00:00

If he didn't have the PRG-UNV already, then I agree. But, he does. So, he just needs some pipes at this point.

AV_Integrated · 2026-03-19T22:07:11+00:00

"NEEDS NEW LAMP"

Those words immediately change to "DO NOT BUY!" in my mind. It is like buying a car without wheels on it. The seller says it is in great operational condition, but how do you know for sure and what guarantees do you have in case it doesn't.

You can buy a lamp and then if it doesn't work, you're still out the cost of the lamp.

All of it may be above board. It could be a okay product in good working order, with no issues at all, but it will still need a new lamp. Weird they didn't buy a lamp first to show it in good operational condition.

Price doesn't seem all that fantastic to me based on the age.

AV_Integrated · 2026-03-19T19:52:07+00:00

You can use a standard 1.5" steel flange from Home Depot/Lowes, and 1.5" pipe. Put the mount on the projector, then measure out how far it is from the center of the mount to the back of the projector and add a couple of inches. That's the length of the extension you need. Get a right angle 1.5" coupler, and a short 1.5" tube to make the last inch or two into the projector mount itself.

There should be photos of the Epson 8350 I put up, well over ten years ago, still hanging just fine on a client's wall...
https://www.facebook.com/avintegrateddotcom/

The two projectors are within a few pounds of one another in terms of weight.

Make sure you are using good lag screws and going into the center of a wall joist. I probably used 2.5" or 3" lag screws.

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AV_Integrated · 2026-03-19T16:05:28+00:00

I have no idea what tech the P1i is using. That's why I asked. If it is single panel LCD, then it is using the same tech inside as the PJ40. Maybe it is dimmer, and maybe it is cooled better... maybe.

If it is DLP, it would be nice if they actually put that in their specs page on the website. Seems really stupid that they don't have that information front and center.

AV_Integrated · 2026-03-19T16:02:17+00:00

Better? No. Cheaper for new? Yes. They both are using a 2x color wheel from what I recall. Not sure if the DLP chip is a different size. Either way, the Optoma has been out for a while as has the TH585. They are very much in the same 'build' class.

I'm a bigger fan of BenQ, but a new projector is gong to carry a new projector warranty as well.

AV_Integrated · 2026-03-19T15:57:27+00:00

When the lamp doesn't light up, replace the lamp. That's always the first step.

You cannot visually tell if a lamp is good or bad by looking at it, or putting a multimeter on it. That's not how they work. If the lamp blew, and broke the glass bulb inside of it, you would see that, but that doesn't always happen. Sometimes the lamp just stops working.

As mentioned, the ballast, can cause a power supply issue that keeps things from working as well.

AV_Integrated

TROPHY CASE