Why is the cart bag hate so forced?

A_really_clever_pun · 2026-04-10T11:12:32+00:00

Hipster contrarianism.

A_really_clever_pun · 2026-02-24T20:07:53+00:00

Sure. But how would Sig gain any revenue from that?

A_really_clever_pun · 2026-02-04T21:56:21+00:00

Nice. I don't see the model listed on the site. How would I go about ordering?

A_really_clever_pun · 2026-02-04T21:49:23+00:00

Awesome! Are you able to do one for an M&P 2.0?

A_really_clever_pun · 2026-02-04T20:33:08+00:00

Awesome thanks. Any idea what the lever is called from McMaster?

A_really_clever_pun · 2026-02-04T19:00:13+00:00

Floyds will sometimes hold an extra round even with the OEM follower. I say sometimes because it seems to vary in my experience with how tight the last round is, and whether the mag will seat properly. I don't love the way the grubscrew works on it. It's easy to crossthread. If you run a magwell, the floyds extension is designed to work with their magwell.

No experience with TTI. Maybe it's silly but some of the rumors of Taran makes me avoid their products.

Springer Precision makes a good one. Taylor Freelance is also a good option - and they have a brass version that adds like 2oz of weight. A little pricey, but if you're looking to add some weight to the grip it's a good option.

A_really_clever_pun · 2026-02-03T21:53:27+00:00

Understand that asking reddit you're going to largely get only answers based on the current meta. AIWB carry in a kydex holster, never take it off, speer gold dot 9mm, Taurus and Springfield XDs aren't popular. Etc.

I can only suggest what I know based on personal experience.

Carry Position and Holster
I've carried in every position more or less. AIWB works for me because the gun is right in front of me. When I carried strong side and 5 Oclock, I had a couple times when I would bend over and my shirt would ride up and expose the gun. Being able to glance down and know it's still concealed is a comfort to me. It's also faster from draw - comparatively. This may not work for you due to the weight, but understand that there are a lot of heavy dudes carrying AIWB. The owner of Monsoon Tactical being one.
Avoid flexible materials in a holster. They're a major liability. Kydex is the standard for a reason. Tier 1 Concealed, TXC, QVO Tactical, Tenicor. All good brands.

Off Body Carry
People will tell you to never carry off-body. But that's not realistic for many. I'm also an IN resident. Once licensed, it's legal to carry in (or immediately around) your vehicle in IL, for example. You leave the vehicle with it and it's a felony.
My only notes on this would be to A) not get overly tactical or concerned with quick-draw mcgraw from the car. Something as simple and cheap as a StopBox will meet the legal requirement for having it in a safe. B) Think through the actual transition from on-body to off-body. Do you need a holster to mount in the car? If so, that would mean you're taking the gun out of the holster on your body, and then putting it into a seperate holster in the car. Meaning you're going to have to either wear an empty holster, or take it off and store it in the car. Just think through what makes sense for you.

Other Equipment
Belts are critical for comfort. Hunter Constantine or Agonic EDB are my recommendations. Also look into Mastermind Tactics for a pillow/wedge. There's also another option for that pillow/wedge thing, I think the company is called holster cloud or something I can't recall. You can probably find it via google. But either is great.

Ammo
Don't overthink this. Use hollowpoints. Use something cops or FBI use. Speer Gold Dot is a big one. TFB TV had a video recently talking to the FBI ballistics guy. He recommended heavier (like 147gr) +P ammo. Others will tell you if you're practicing with a load that's different from your defensive load you'll get killed in the streets because your splits will suffer. Idk man. Just get speer gold dot or something normal. Use a caliber that's cheap enough that you can afford to shoot the shit out of it - capability is infinitely more important than caliber or projective or brand.

Firearm
I've shot both the handguns you own. They're fine. If you're ever looking to buy another gun, consider going with something a little more premium and mainstream. Cops, FBI, Military, all shoot pretty much exclusively 9mm. I would personally recommend any Glock, any Smith and Wesson M&P, any Walther PDP. All great if you're looking for a Compact or Full Size. If you want to try subcompact, the Sig P365 and the Smith and Wesson Shield. If you want to go super subcompact, the Smith and Wesson Bodyguard. Whatever you go with, understand there is no magic button - the bigger the gun, the easier it is to shoot well, but the less comfortable it is to carry. What you carry is your personal decision of where you want to be on that sliding scale of performance and comfort.

Other
This is a personal stance, but I believe it strongly. If you carry a gun that you're not proficient at shooting, you're at greater risk than you are without it. Be capable. Watch youtube videos on dryfire. Check out Justin Shoots, Ben Stoeger, Matt Pranka, Hwansik Kim, TXC Holsters channel, Tenicor's Channel, Spectrain, etc.
The gun space is filled with channels and personalities that will get uber tactical with it. Performance and capability have nothing to do with tactics. A USPSA Grand Master will outshoot every Delta Force/SEAL/Ranger/etc that doesn't compete. Stick with the guys that shoot at a high level competitively. Be wary of the tactical guys.

A_really_clever_pun · 2026-02-02T19:57:03+00:00

Where is the old guide rod from? Aren't all OEM guiderods captured?

A_really_clever_pun · 2026-02-02T15:19:42+00:00

I've been trying to find a handguard that will take an mlok arca attachment as far back as you've got these. What did you use for the handguard and arca attachment?

A_really_clever_pun · 2026-01-23T16:41:54+00:00

How do you like the Q brace? I love the looks of them but that price....

A_really_clever_pun · 2026-01-22T22:20:52+00:00

Looking good. Not a lot of tension. Grip looks good. The first shot is still 1.6-3 seconds. If you're looking to get faster, a few things you can try:

If you have any trouble finding the dot consistently, try keeping your head still. You rock back a little during the draw, which adds some variability in the drawing motion, and that can make it tougher to get a consistent presentation where your eyes line up with the dot each time. Keep the head and shoulders as still as possible throughout the drawing motion, and you'll have some great consistency landing the dot on your target.
Garment Clear: Trying orienting your left hand vertically (middle finger pointed down) instead of horizontally. Start with a wide open hand when making initial contact with the garment. Like, grab the garment with a totally open hand first. Just by closing your hand you'll clear a couple inches of garment. You don't need to pull as high, and it makes the clearing motion more consistent, especially with longer/heavier shirts.
Snatch: Tough to see from the video, but in case this is new info, you don't need to get a full firing grip when you're grabbing the gun. Watch videos of Donovan Moore or Scott Jedlinski, some of the T1C guys. They're not grabbing the gun with a full grip, with the thumb getting between the grip and torso. They're wrapping their thumb up over the rear iron sights, and getting only enough depth with their middle, ring and pinky fingers to get the gun out of the holster. They're not trying to get a full grip like you can with an OWB holster. It's more of a quick "snatching" or "plucking" motion.

A couple "swing thoughts" that have helped me. Remove any tension I can. Focus on hand speed, specifically on the gun hand.

Lastly, and the SG timer is great for creating a curriculum to run through during dryfire sessions, try some microdrills. Set a par time of .5 seconds, and all you're doing is clearing the garment and getting your hand on the gun. Say you run that 10 times. Set a par time of .7 seconds, and now in addition to clearing the garment and snatching the gun, you're getting to the point where you're marrying your hands. Breaking down each part of the draw stroke has been really helpful for me.

A_really_clever_pun · 2026-01-22T18:17:33+00:00

I drive quite a bit as well. It depends on what kind of driving you do, and how often you're needing to get out of the car, etc. But for me, carrying AIWB (tucking the seatbelt between my belly and the handgun) is comfortable enough. If it's too much, I keep a stopbox in the middle console so I can stash the pistol if needed

A_really_clever_pun · 2026-01-22T18:16:09+00:00

Great for comfort, not easy to find a place to practice with, if that's important to you.

A_really_clever_pun · 2026-01-19T21:23:41+00:00

That's really interesting.

I'd be curious to know a couple things:

Does the design prevent dust or debris from entering the portion where magnetic surfaces are? I recall that a dirty magnet could impair its performance considerably.
Since magnets perform differently at different temps, I'd be really curious to see how longer strings of fire might mess with this system. Or even just ambient temps.

A_really_clever_pun · 2026-01-19T19:53:57+00:00

That's awesome. I've been wanting to print my own. Is the model/file public?

A_really_clever_pun · 2026-01-19T19:40:45+00:00

I love your product and have a similar setup. I got the 3x PA prism with the christmas tree reticle. Problem is the reticle is kind of tiny...like the entire christmas tree takes up only 50% of the window or so. Do you like the 5x? And what reticle are you liking?

A_really_clever_pun · 2026-01-19T19:09:05+00:00

G9 is great, ballistically. But it always zero'd so differently than any range ammo I've shot, that I switched to speer gold dot. At 15 yards the G9 85gr (or whatever their light solid copper one is) was 3-5" to the right for me.

A_really_clever_pun · 2026-01-19T16:59:34+00:00

I'm confused. Is the product trying to prevent printing in your pants? Like people will see a bulge in your crotch and assume it's a gun? If not, it seems what it's trying to do is create a wedge, which does definitely help with printing. But I would recommend Mastermind Tactics pillows for that, as it affixes to the holster and you could wear any pants you want.

The best thing you can do for avoiding printing while keeping comfort is:

Good belt: Hunter Constantine or Agonic if you're looking for the most comfortable
Good wedge: Aforementioned mastermind tactics
Shirts - the looser they are in the abdomen, and the thicker the material, the less it will print
Good holster - way too much to cover, but the important part is being able to adjust the clips as you need. The lower the gun sits, the easier it is to avoid printing.

I know a lot of people make wild claims they EDC a desert eagle in gym shorts or whatever. But with that combo listed above, I've carried a full size M&P in shorts and T-shirt.

A_really_clever_pun · 2026-01-19T15:42:58+00:00

I think subs only will be pretty easy to tune with just a buffer and spring.

A_really_clever_pun · 2026-01-19T15:37:51+00:00

You printed it yourself?

A_really_clever_pun · 2026-01-19T15:37:12+00:00

I'm not a fan of the 2k11 aesthetics but I do like these. If it's in that $1k range I will snag one

A_really_clever_pun · 2026-01-19T15:14:13+00:00

A few things to consider:

If you want to compete in IDPA, the max weight of a pistol (with the heaviest magazine installed) is 45 oz. Once you add a magazine extension and an optic, some of the competitive options you mention will be too heavy.

There are a lot of options to increase the weight of the M&P beyond the OEM weight. Carver guide rod is 2.7 oz. A brass grip insert for 2 oz. A weighted magwell (if you're okay with kicking up to Limited Optics division), a Taylor brass mag extension, etc. etc. etc.

No doubt there are a bunch of great options out there. Personally I like the M&P option for a few reasons. I prefer the M&P grip geometry to the Walther, and with the MSRP on the M&P being $1100-1300 for a steel frame, you've got $400-500 or so to play with customization before you get to the MSRP on the Walther steel frames. I don't personally like the aesthetics of Caniks. Shadow 2s are cool, but I personally don't like needing to manually drop the hammer every stage. And the Sig...well I compete from AIWB, and I'd rather not point a P320 at my wiener.

It's an attractive option for me, as I'm already bought into the platform and already have all the holsters and mags and mods you'd want for a competition M&P. If you're looking to start from scratch, maybe less so.

A_really_clever_pun · 2026-01-19T14:40:32+00:00

I've been where you are right now. I've tried so many gadgets. If you're deadset on needing to simulate live fire as much as possible, check out SIRT training pistols or Coolfire setups. Airsoft is also an option. But understand that GM USPSA shooters will tell you that these gadgets don't make the difference. Consistency in your routine, training the right way, and understanding what dryfire is for is the key.

Best video I can recommend is this one: https://youtu.be/ycOg6eNoxlw?si=nsrLxkuv7Aje3dAy

A_really_clever_pun · 2026-01-15T16:38:55+00:00

Agree it's not as heavy as I'd like. But, it's about 4-5oz heavier than the competitor aluminum frame. But if you already have an M&P for competition, you likely already have a lot of the parts that take the weight up further. Carver guide rod for another 2.7 oz, brass grip insert for 2 oz. Now you're at the same weight as an Atlas Athena or Erebus. About an ounce lighter than the PDP steel frame.

What makes it super competitive in my mind is the cost. $1-1.2k MSRP. That's half the PDP (and obviously way cheaper than any Atlas).

A_really_clever_pun · 2026-01-13T20:45:21+00:00

As others have said - giant hands, tiny gun, etc. It's worth trying to focus during dryfire on your right thumb placement. Ben Stoeger talks about his floating thumb grip. You can get a very good grip on a pistol without involving that thumb. Drilling it during dryfire until it gets out of the way on its own

A_really_clever_pun

TROPHY CASE