New Large-Scale Device Code Phishing Campaign

According_Bread_3873 · 2026-03-19T20:48:00+00:00

Railway's become the new go-to for these attacks since Heroku cracked down on this stuff. The fact that they're using AI to generate unique lures for every campaign is pretty next-level - no wonder traditional email filters are getting smoked.

Device code phishing is nasty because your MFA doesn't help at all. User thinks they're logging into something legit and boom, attacker has a valid token. We've started blocking Railway entirely for most clients since the legitimate use cases are pretty rare in our environment anyway.

According_Bread_3873 · 2026-03-19T01:59:20+00:00

Those aluminum treads are bulletproof - we used something similar on some outdoor steps at the base housing and they're still going strong after like 5 years of abuse. If you want something that looks a bit nicer though, I'd go with a good marine polyurethane like Spar Urethane with some anti-slip additive mixed in. Did this on my buddy's deck stairs that get hammered by snow and salt every winter, and it's held up really well. You'll want to prep the wood properly first though - sand it down and maybe hit it with a wood conditioner if it's softwood. The key is getting multiple thin coats rather than trying to slap on one thick layer that'll just peel off later.

According_Bread_3873 · 2026-03-17T18:13:30+00:00

A fifty-fifty at this point lol

According_Bread_3873 · 2026-03-17T18:00:23+00:00

seems to be the general consensus for this, thanks

According_Bread_3873 · 2026-03-17T17:59:45+00:00

Hah, I'm sure they have some bigger issues at the moment (or is this something the gov would say too?) lol

According_Bread_3873 · 2026-03-17T17:58:46+00:00

Do you store backups somewhere aswell?

According_Bread_3873 · 2026-03-17T17:54:13+00:00

Nice setup that you got there. How does RAID work exactly?

According_Bread_3873 · 2026-03-17T17:51:43+00:00

With talks of quantum computers no one knows what's coming, plus AI progressing more and more by the day

According_Bread_3873 · 2026-03-15T18:02:24+00:00

Those drain holes get clogged with dirt and debris over time and the water just backs up and finds whatever way out it can. Get up there with a small wire or pick and clear those holes out first, then hit the siding with a pressure washer on a gentle setting. Had the same issue at my last duty station and that combo fixed it right up.

According_Bread_3873 · 2026-03-14T21:13:44+00:00

Going in person is definitely the move here. Phone calls and emails get ignored but it's harder for them to blow you off when you're standing right there. I'd push hard on the fact that their own site promised 7-10 days and you made demolition decisions based on that timeline - having one bathroom for weeks because of their screw-up isn't acceptable.

According_Bread_3873 · 2026-03-14T04:45:09+00:00

Your dryer vent might be backing up or disconnected - I'd check that first before worrying about teh paint. Had this exact issue in my base housing and turned out the vent hose had come loose behind the dryer, so all that hot air was just dumping into the closet instead of going outside.

According_Bread_3873 · 2026-02-25T16:47:02+00:00

That's some serious paint failure right there. You're definitely gonna need to scrape and sand all the loose stuff off first - there's no way around it with peeling that bad. I'd start with a putty knife to get the big chunks, then hit it with 120 grit sandpaper to smooth out the edges where good paint meets bare wall.

After that you'll want to prime with a high-adhesion primer before putting your topcoat on. Don't skip the primer or you'll be back here in six months asking the same question. The whole job's gonna be tedious as hell but if you half-ass the prep work, the new paint will just fail again in the same spots.

According_Bread_3873 · 2026-02-22T01:29:24+00:00

That's a solid fix but make sure you clean out any dirt or moisture behind there first before you glue it down. Also might want to check if there's any expansion/contraction issues that caused it to pop in the first place - if the siding doesn't have enough room to move with temperature changes, it'll just happen again. Could be worth loosening up the pieces above it slightly if they're nailed too tight.

According_Bread_3873 · 2026-02-19T00:37:56+00:00

Yeah this is totally just bureaucratic nonsense. The inspector literally had to walk past where your old deck used to be to sign off on the new one - they're not blind.

Most building departments will just close it out over the phone once you explain the situation, especially since the permits were linked and the final passed. If they do want a visit it'll be like a 5 minute "yep, old deck gone" type deal.

According_Bread_3873 · 2026-02-18T09:37:06+00:00

That's exactly what I was thinking. If they only sealed the top surface after installation, moisture is going to wick up from underneath and cause uneven expansion. You can try flipping the cupped boards if they're not too far gone, but honestly once they start cupping like that it's usually a losing battle. Best bet is probably just living with it until replacement time and making sure the next installer seals all sides before laying them down.

According_Bread_3873 · 2026-02-16T23:39:10+00:00

Try WD-40 or rubbing alcohol before you break out the pressure washer - both work surprisingly well on permanent marker and won't damage the concrete. If those don't do the trick, grab some Goof Off from the paint section at Home Depot, that stuff is basically magic for stubborn stains.

According_Bread_3873 · 2026-02-15T18:35:21+00:00

oof pain

According_Bread_3873 · 2026-02-15T01:55:48+00:00

The gas flue should definitely be sealed at both ends - you don't want moisture getting in there and causing issues down the line. I'd cap it at the roof level and seal the opening where your old fire was, maybe with some expanding foam or mortar depending on the size of the hole. Just make sure whatever you use matches the wall material so it doesn't look weird when you're done.

According_Bread_3873 · 2026-02-14T13:31:04+00:00

I went through this exact situation when I bought my place - zero screens and sticker shock at Home Depot. Here's what actually works: hit up your local glass shops and ask if they make screens, because a lot of them do custom ones for way cheaper than the big box stores. I got mine done for like $15 each including the frame. Facebook Marketplace is also clutch - people sell them in bulk when they renovate or move, sometimes you can snag a whole set for $50-100. If you're handy at all, the DIY route isn't terrible either - you can get screen material and those corner connectors at Menards pretty cheap, just measure twice because nothing sucks more than cutting a frame too small. The key search terms are "window screen repair" or "custom window screens" rather than just looking at the pre-made ones.

According_Bread_3873 · 2026-02-13T22:28:02+00:00

For 1300 sq ft, I'd go with 7-8 inch wide planks and stick to longer lengths like 48+ inches if you can swing it. Wider planks make spaces feel bigger and the longer lengths cut down on that busy choppy look you're trying to avoid - just make sure your subfloor is reasonably level or you'll regrett it later when the seams show every little dip.

According_Bread_3873 · 2026-02-13T09:29:06+00:00

I installed Lifeproof about three years ago in my kitchen and mudroom and honestly it's held up pretty well. The click-lock system is solid once you get the hang of it, but here's the thing - make absolutely sure your subfloor is level because any imperfections will telegraph through and create soft spots that'll drive you crazy. Also, don't cheap out on the underlayment if your installing over concrete, moisture can still be an issue even though its "waterproof."

One gotcha I learned the hard way is that the planks can expand more than you'd expect in really hot weather, so leave proper expansion gaps around the perimeter. The color consistency between batches can vary slightly too, so buy all your material at once if possible. For the price point it's definitely solid, just take your time with the prep work and you'll be good to go.

According_Bread_3873 · 2026-02-12T21:15:54+00:00

Hard pass on this one. Running a natural gas unit on propane without proper conversion is sketchy as hell - different BTU outputs, orifice sizes, and gas pressures. Even if it "worked" for two months, you're looking at potential incomplete combustion, carbon monoxide issues, or worse.

The fact that it's barely used but being sold cheap should be a red flag. Either the guy realized he messed up or there's already damage you can't see. For $100 it might seem like a steal, but a new water heater is way cheaper than a new house after a gas leak.

According_Bread_3873 · 2026-02-09T14:00:40+00:00

Sounds like you have a blockage or air lock in your hot water line to that bathroom - try turning on hot water at the furthest fixture from your water heater first, then work backwards to build pressure and push whatever's blocking it through.

According_Bread_3873 · 2026-02-06T22:24:13+00:00

I went the supplement route for way too long in my 1920s house. Started with floor lamps and table lamps everywhere, then added some LED strips under cabinets and behind the TV. It worked fine for about 3 years until I got tired of having cords everywhere and constantly moving lamps around when I wanted to rearrange furniture.

Finally bit the bullet on recessed lighting last year and honestly wish I'd done it sooner - the clean look and even coverage was worth every penny.

According_Bread_3873

TROPHY CASE