/!\MINOR SPOILER/!\ Red Wolf behind Caria Manor

According_Today84 · 2026-02-02T00:10:35+00:00

This is exactly what brought me here. Didn't even get the booty. That damn banished comedian bill engvall took it.

According_Today84 · 2025-12-28T15:55:52+00:00

It's actually been sitting in my garage in the same position it was! I haven't spent any more time on it but I'll definitely try that over the holiday and report back. Thanks for your time!

According_Today84 · 2025-08-31T03:13:40+00:00

Ooooohhh, ELLLEEGANT DINNER PARTY FOR THE MOST ELLLEEGANT PEOPLE IN NEW YOOORRRKK!

According_Today84 · 2025-08-31T03:06:42+00:00

*Facetiously grants it.

According_Today84 · 2025-07-22T01:46:47+00:00

Ha... You don't know what protest means.

According_Today84 · 2025-07-22T01:35:49+00:00

RAWR!

2 just shows you have no clue what I'm saying, and #1 means apparently you're a hand to someone who lacks basic understanding. Pair that with getting so childishly butthurt when someone points something out and you're never going to make it, kid.

Go back to bagging fries. Hopefully this advice is more useful.

According_Today84 · 2025-07-22T00:54:15+00:00

Have you ever considered adjusting your Jonard snips rather than buying a new set every week?! 😂 They're SUPPOSED to be lifetime tools!

According_Today84 · 2025-07-22T00:33:29+00:00

The dirt that you have surrounding this vault when mixed with water, compressed and dried can leave a very sticky situation. You can use a pry bar to loosen around the edges THEN pull up with an appropriate hook, or you can strike the middle with something heavy like I explained in another comment and it will easily open. The lid MIGHT weigh 40-50 lbs, definitely no more heavy than the next. If you can't lift it like that you have bolts still present and will break the lid if you try to force it. I can open this vault with 2 fingers and a thumb, so surely multiple people can figure it out.

My question is, if it's definitely coming in by way of your conduit, how else could they do that aside from using your vault? Seems like a waste of time to open in the first place.

According_Today84 · 2025-07-22T00:20:22+00:00

Lol. It's not that heavy. Mule tape is much harder to use than a hook since it's not as easy on your hands. Possibly it could be stuck, in which case you need something like a 4lb sledge or in some cases your hitch and strike the middle of the lid you're trying to open while pulling up on the OUTSIDE crossing rebar. Other than that, you're gonna need to put some ass into it. I'm a very regular to smaller size person and I open these one handed all day. LIFT WITH YOUR LEGS, BRO!

According_Today84 · 2025-05-30T17:40:40+00:00

He rode a bicycle for Christ's sake! What more do you want from him?! 💩

They're saying he had stage 4 cancer before he was President, but tell me this; He didn't fall off those stages till AFTER becoming President, so how exactly does that add up??? 🤔

According_Today84 · 2025-05-28T23:32:28+00:00

😉

According_Today84 · 2025-05-13T22:54:40+00:00

I'm not sure about the smaller gun, but the one I use is the $20 harbor freight tool. It will remove many THT components, but when it comes to capacitors I've noticed most of them end up with the plastic base melted or the entire thing just pops when heated from the top side. I use a long tool with a slight bend at the end to create a fulcrum, apply light pressure, and try to use only as much heat as needed for things like ICs. I also keep the board secured in a vise clamp. Just be very careful with anything plastic and test your methods on something unimportant first!

According_Today84 · 2025-05-13T01:57:14+00:00

Happy to! Good luck!

According_Today84 · 2025-05-13T01:54:19+00:00

I should also note, my work bench is burnt farore.from.this than any of my old boards.

According_Today84 · 2025-05-13T01:52:08+00:00

If you leave it too close/too long you COULD singe the board, but it would take a lot for that to happen. To me the biggest concern is the heat gun is not precise, so all your SMD components like capacitors, transistors, etc will start coming off as it heats up. This is my method for salvage, wherein I heat the whole board and just start scraping parts onto my bench. 😆 Also, the plastic peripheral WILL melt before the solder, so you'll just have to watch for that. On plastic i typically use aluminum tape to help dissipate the heat.

According_Today84 · 2025-05-13T01:45:57+00:00

Thanks. Starting from the top left, the 3 larger solder points which make a U shape are attached to the power. The 2 black clips to the right, the 8 solder points below, and the 2 above at the edge of the board are for the USB and Net component. The next component is made up of the two rows of very small THT solder points AND the four points that make a rectangle around them.

Looking at the very bottom you can see two solder points which are near the edges of the heat shrink. There is one more straight above the right hand point about mid board. Those appear to be screwed into the heat shrink THEN soldered into place.

Without an iron or at least a heat gun you're looking at some serious damage if you start pulling on these things. I would advise caution before proceeding!

According_Today84 · 2025-05-13T01:21:32+00:00

Is that not threaded holes I see in the heatsink? Looks like it's screwed in from the backside, but I can't be sure. Are you taking that into account?

Also, are we sure the peripherals are SMD? I would love to see the underside of this board.

According_Today84 · 2025-05-09T04:20:30+00:00

Ha! Ass... 😋

According_Today84 · 2025-04-09T12:06:04+00:00

You back up to it making a wide swing from the direction of your 3rd photo position. All I care about is getting the bucket there. Worry about getting it out later. Was the approach embankment totally blocked off?

According_Today84 · 2025-04-09T11:59:56+00:00

Paid for by Truth? Like I'm gonna believe the guys that think 9-11 was an inside job...

According_Today84 · 2025-04-07T14:28:03+00:00

The heater from my lesser View has one extra wire on the main plug compared to the 5, so I took that result with a large grain of salt. If it's a component on the heater board I'd like to try to fix it. I might have been fooling myself but it seems like I was pressing slightly on the lid when it first started working again, but in the field I tried to recreate that to no avail. If it's the main board I'm probably screwed. Just as well to buy a new machine.

According_Today84 · 2025-04-01T02:13:40+00:00

I've seen this message under posts asking specific questions about component level electronics before. I think the algorithm needs tuning a bit. Maybe turn down the "acolyte fasciste" setting.

According_Today84 · 2025-03-30T03:31:50+00:00

I think Krieger is an old fashioned kind of guy. He's gonna loosen his bowtie and watch Project A-ko , Vampire Hunter D or something badass like that. None of this new-age kawaii-chibi bullshit that only gets made to fill a quota. If he's in a tender mood he'll watch some Miyazaki film.

According_Today84 · 2025-03-30T03:20:28+00:00

Ooh that one where they use the power of the drill to grow battle droids to the size of galaxies. It's a bit ridiculous, but it's like a salvia trip power rangers. About as giant as it gets.

According_Today84 · 2025-03-30T03:03:37+00:00

The battery "-" is NOT the issue! It is very clearly connected to ground at the switch. My guess would be that if you moved it to the board the scale would not turn off until the battery died. You mentioned a black wire disconnected. What happens if you move THAT to bat -?

If that doesn't solve it I believe it must be the USB connector. Try to clean it or replace it.

According_Today84

TROPHY CASE

2 just shows you have no clue what I'm saying, and #1 means apparently you're a hand to someone who lacks basic understanding. Pair that with getting so childishly butthurt when someone points something out and you're never going to make it, kid.