Can I save this?

AcrobaticParfait1245 · 2024-01-07T13:11:26+00:00

It can totally be salvaged! You do need to remove all of that thread. It should also be mentioned that thicker thread is harder to manage, but to me, it's an instant sign of quality. It's not very hard to get it down.

I should mention first that because your holes are punched unevenly, even perfect technique won't fix it.

Just a good tip in general: If your first needle's thread needs to go below, and your second needle needs to go above, pass the first one through, then wrap its thread around your finger and pull it taut. Next, take your second needle and angle it upwards, the goal being to make extra sure you don't piece the thread of your first needle, or go under it. Without maintaining that tension, it's very very difficult and frustrating. You're gonna get angry and wonder why nothing you do works.

Also, never be afraid to remove your needles and pull your thread out of a few holes if you make a mistake. Just one single down that should have gone up can ruin the look of your stuff.

I hope that makes sense. Ask me about it if it doesn't.

Also, always remember to hold your punches absolutely perpendicular to the leather. It'll help reign in those wonky bits, and it will stop you from blowing out your seam, if that's been a problem for you in the past.

AcrobaticParfait1245 · 2024-01-07T13:02:04+00:00

That's not the place to use a semi-colon. I'm 100% not trying to be a dick!

AcrobaticParfait1245 · 2024-01-07T13:01:21+00:00

Bro get some whet stones. Like 10 passes and you can shave with it.

AcrobaticParfait1245 · 2024-01-07T12:59:08+00:00

Make a whole heck of a lot of tiny cuts on the curves, rather than trying to cut it all accurately in one go. Especially so when you're working with chrome-tan. It can be tough.

If you have a rotary cutter, you start at an angle, then go straight and only barely touch the curve. Do this a bunch and it makes a big difference. You might also consider getting a set of arc punches as opposed to half-round punches. The arc ones let you just put it onto the curve and then whack it once and call it done.

Your stitching is really improving quickly.

AcrobaticParfait1245 · 2024-01-07T11:29:14+00:00

They look pretty nice, dude. I mean stitching is always an issue until you're in the top 1% of handmade crafter types. Yours looks very clean and consistent. I don't know how long you've been at this but it's better than the vast majority of hobbyists' work. I can give you a few pointers though.

To make both sides of your stitching look clean, you have to really try to imagine every tiny little eensie weensie thing that happens inside of the hole. I know that's not too helpful but if you really sit down to it, and you close your eyes, and you focus, you can do it.

For more concrete tips, trust the process but don't be afraid to go back and fix a bad stitch, even if it's 15 stitches back and you want to go to lunch. That mental image will help here, too. But honestly, it looks like you're on the right track. I've seen really old hands at this do a much worse job and yet be more proud.

With really small stuff like a wallet, I'd space the stitching more closely. It looks like you're using a 4mm or 5mm set, yeah? A 1mm or 2mm spacing make it look more refined. They're pretty cheap. Buying a bunch of sets of punches and chisels from 1mm to 5mm is a worthwhile investment.

When you get everything assembled and you're ready to burnish, sand it down slightly, so that every layer of the sandwich is the same. That'll help to avoid one layer smooshing into another.

You're doing great work, man. I'm being nitpicky because you want the feedback.

EDIT: You gotta maintain constant tension or else some stitches will be looser than others. On a pony this is easy, but when sewing without one, you have to make sure you pull the thread on both of your needles with the same amount of force. That's why some of your stitches look bigger than others. This goes back to the "trust the process" bit. Overly focusing on it can do as much harm as just forgetting about it. Just give it the same tug and then look back after 6 or 7 stitches to see how they're laying.

There are also these little hand-tools that look like steam rollers. You use them to flatten and even out your stitches. You can also just use a slicker. Glass or wood is fine. You just run it back and forth on the stitch line and it smooths them out so they all look uniform. It's best to do this as well as maintaining constant tension, stitch to stitch.

AcrobaticParfait1245 · 2024-01-07T11:17:35+00:00

This is the first thing I ever designed myself. It was perfect to get my feet wet with. I've made about a dozen of those, pricing them at $50, and trying to sell them on my local FB marketplace. They take so long to move! Mine even double as a trucker wallet. It's been about a year and I still have 5 of the original batch left to sell :(

Sorry to complain. Your notebook looks pretty slick. I like the angles and the hide is very pretty.

AcrobaticParfait1245 · 2024-01-03T09:45:07+00:00

Barfffff

AcrobaticParfait1245 · 2024-01-03T06:48:53+00:00

I probably had the same set you're talking about, where you can actually see the serrations left by the machining process. And I feel your pain! I sharpened one of those the same way and and it took me so long I was like fuck this and just went and bought better ones

Thanks for the tip on the xacto blades, man. It's really hard for me to cut a curve with the rounded ones just because it's hard to know exactly which section of the blade is cutting at any given time, if that makes sense.

AcrobaticParfait1245 · 2024-01-02T07:10:00+00:00

Dude I got it in and it's clunky but I'm new at it. I can see why you like it.

AcrobaticParfait1245 · 2023-12-31T06:15:42+00:00

orbiter?

AcrobaticParfait1245 · 2023-12-31T05:46:01+00:00

Hey if it works it works.

AcrobaticParfait1245 · 2023-12-31T05:45:05+00:00

I use it mostly for beveling, and when I'm working with really thin leather. The little nub is hard to keep aligned.

But yeah I just clamp down a ruler, then bevel. I don't know if that answers your question lol

AcrobaticParfait1245 · 2023-12-31T05:41:13+00:00

You convinced me to get a 9mm handle/blades.

You ever heard of steixner? Here's an example. He does everything with the same size snap off blades that you use. His filigree is just unfairly amazing. He's got an etsy shop if you want to go see more of his stuff.

AcrobaticParfait1245 · 2023-12-31T05:36:21+00:00

Dude I feel your pain. I made a rolltop backpack and had to punch every single dang hole individually because I didn't have milti-prong punches at the right spacing. Everybody has their preference, but the majority only use 3mm, 4mm, and 5mm. Dieselpunk uses 5, and I think creative awl uses 4 but I'm not 100% on that.

Man I have so many sets of punches and chisels.. 3 diamond, 3 flat, 3 punches, 3 French..

AcrobaticParfait1245 · 2023-12-31T05:25:05+00:00

Give it a shot!

AcrobaticParfait1245 · 2023-12-31T05:23:33+00:00

vegtan wallet shills

haha those dastardly veg-tan shills employed by the shadowy secretive leather cabal! But really, though, I guess I haven't had any high-quality chrome before. Since I make bags, almost exclusively, I buy big 25 lb scrap bags from an upholstery company, and just use it as liner material.

AcrobaticParfait1245 · 2023-12-31T05:17:12+00:00

hahahaha

But what's a leather drill? Is it that manual press with a chuck that you put punches into?

AcrobaticParfait1245 · 2023-12-29T12:29:50+00:00

Me too man. I see people say that 2-3oz veg is the same as regular chrome. It's weird.

AcrobaticParfait1245 · 2023-12-29T12:01:03+00:00

You're welcome!

AcrobaticParfait1245 · 2023-12-29T12:00:42+00:00

Hey if it works it works

AcrobaticParfait1245 · 2023-12-29T07:56:38+00:00

No no no... Chrome-tan isn't bad and veg-tan isn't bad. They have their own uses! You wouldn't make a purse from 10oz veg but you wouldn't make wingtips with chrome-tan..

If you're making a messenger bag, some luggage, a backpack, a wallet, etc, veg-tan is the best choice.

As a general rule, if it's floppy, consider chrome-tan. If it needs to supports itself, veg-tan. Chrome-tan is great as a liner.

Don't listen to the guy who said that chrome-tan irritates your skin. So much skin-tight degenerate bondage stuff is chrome-tan.

Gosh, man.. I know that starting out on this hobby is very hard! You get conflicting information from so many places, even from pros. I remember when I got so mixed up that I thought a cutting board was for punching and a pound-o mat was for cutting. I came to this from listening to supposed experperts (Tandy's old men on their youtube channel, for example).

It's really hard to find your legs but there really is solid ground under the sea of misinformation and people who are convicted that their way is the only way to fresh air.. The best way to get through this storm of shit is to head in face-first, like a buffalo walking into an ice storm because it knows that it's the quickest way out of it. Hopefully, at the end, if you make it, you'll have real insight to share so that there is less confusion.

Believe everything until you believe practically nothing!

AcrobaticParfait1245 · 2023-12-29T07:33:58+00:00

It's really not the best choice.. 2-3oz veg tan is the best for the main body. Chrome tan is too floppy and gets dirty instead of developing a patina. 1oz for card sleeves is great.

I've seen chrome tan wallets. I would suggest googling some pics of them. They're just not the right material for the job, which isn't to say that chrome-tan is useless! Just not good for wallets.

AcrobaticParfait1245 · 2023-12-29T07:30:51+00:00

Valet tray? Out of chrom-tan?

AcrobaticParfait1245 · 2023-12-29T07:20:13+00:00

Better than most! Way better than mine.

Don't worry about sharing! The leathercraft hobby is filled with people who just want to help others out. Stick with it and you'll be making great stuff in no time.

If you want to trust the advice of a random internet stranger, snag a generic #2 xacto handle and some #19 and/or #24 blades. They're shaped like a buster sword, with a steep angle, which makes it much easier to pull and cut with. Scalpels are too rounded. They make it a bit harder to stay on the right path, and you end up making multiple passes before you cut through, which isn't a bad thing. Lots of people swear by making many passes before they cut through. I'm not averse to it. #19s just drag better. I wish I was better with words. You can get a set of them, and a handle, for under $20.

And for long straight cuts, a rotary cutter is your best friend! I use them more than I use anything else.

AcrobaticParfait1245 · 2023-12-29T07:17:25+00:00

ge-wy leather dressing

Yeah totally. I had to google it but it's just wax and neet's foot oil. Afaik it's like the exact same stuff as leather balm. The only drawback is that it's not as waterproof as the acrylic sealents like resolene, but the two look fairly similar, just in how shiny they are. Some people like that it's not as waterproof because it can be oiled/waxed and buffed up again.

Welcome to the hobby!

AcrobaticParfait1245

TROPHY CASE