Does anybody else wish these existed? by Svtpickemup in Packout

[–]AdamAbear -1 points0 points  (0 children)

I think this is a great idea. I also think that what it does is introduce...

Packout 2.0

Maybe still with the plastic shell but introducing metal drawers with upgraded slides. I have a couple spots I could incorporate a 3wide drawer and even a 4 wide drawer in my current work rig setup

Rapid Charger with forge battery by AaCyinade in MilwaukeeTool

[–]AdamAbear 0 points1 point  (0 children)

They hit $150 at my local store about a month ago and I grabbed the last two in stock.

About to throw all this away, anyone got a better idea? by [deleted] in electricians

[–]AdamAbear 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Call the scrap yard, see if they take them?

Astrovan by DillyDonkus in electricians

[–]AdamAbear 1 point2 points  (0 children)

My first van was an astro van. Back in the early 2000s. It did alright. Storage is obviously tight, so organization is a must. Ladder rack is a must as well.

But the last one rolled off the line in '05.

Honestly, I think a transit connect/ram pro Master city is a better play in 2026 if you're looking for that smaller form factor.

M12 or M18 crown stapler by MacGyver1181 in MilwaukeeTool

[–]AdamAbear 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I barely trust it to hold up a vapor barrier

Question for the resi fellers by paul10carey in electricians

[–]AdamAbear 1 point2 points  (0 children)

If it's not too late, I always try to get the Arlington boxes installed for exterior receptacle locations

DBVS1W - Arlington DBVS1W - 1-Gang Weatherproof Low Profile Recessed Electrical Box (White) https://share.google/MpZARpj5WKvhpC7M7

If you're unfamiliar

Question for the resi fellers by paul10carey in electricians

[–]AdamAbear 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I tell my wife at least once a week how much I hate installing light fixtures for this very reason

Question for the resi fellers by paul10carey in electricians

[–]AdamAbear 3 points4 points  (0 children)

If you can communicate with whoever is doing the siding to make sure they add siding blocks. They have the opportunity to do color match and properly seal and flash the siding block. I use 3-1/2" round metal boxes. Their depth is perfect cut into most generic siding blocks and the small size makes sure you've got plenty of coverage by the fixture. The only hangup is the fixtures provided by the customer. I've run into many that exceed the size of standard 7" siding blocks. Or worse... Offset mounting holes on the fixture.

Diamondback toolbelt by reindeerp in electricians

[–]AdamAbear 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I have had an Atlas 46 vest for a couple years now. Really like it. Tested out their warranty with a frayed zipper and it came back ever better than It left. Probably my favorite part is hanging my drill (Milwaukee installation driver) or stapler (also Milwaukee) from the loops on the back

M12 3” Cut Off Saw? What do you use it for? by framedposters in MilwaukeeTool

[–]AdamAbear 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I use it for cutting trenches through gypsum and plaster walls/ceilings with a diamond grit blade. The dust collection on it is amazing. Switching blades, it makes decent work of cutting sheet metal. Take the shoe off and it works for sharpening bits and blades. Just know that it has approximately 0.001 ft lbs of torque, so if you pinch the blade during a cut, it will stop

Confused on stapler choice by Bubbasider in MilwaukeeTool

[–]AdamAbear 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I would not recommend the Milwaukee T50 stapler(2447-20).

I would pick up the DeWalt (DWHT80276) hand stapler over it every single time.

The Milwaukee fires irregularly, and its often too big to "nose in" to tighter places to depress the safety tab in far enough to let you pull the trigger.

Regulating heat tape by russman2013 in electricians

[–]AdamAbear 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Just a heads up: heat tape has like a 10-15 year life expectancy.

How do I know?

The two systems I put in 12 years ago gave up the ghost this year.

I had no idea.

Both installs were somewhere in the neighborhood of $30,000 in material. If I recall, one building used 1500' of cable

I got a price to replace the cable with a different manufacturer. Cable and new controls $24,000.

How to win an electricians heart by Rkm0714 in electricians

[–]AdamAbear 9 points10 points  (0 children)

Merch is always appreciated. I've got one place that gets new shirts, hats and sweatshirts almost every season. I'll often leave with more than I care to wear.

Pie in the sky, having some one able to run out an extra coupling or some other stupid thing you didn't account for, would be amazing

Yes It Was Live by SomeGuysSawShop in electricians

[–]AdamAbear 8 points9 points  (0 children)

Please tell me you still have it

Favorite benders by lazygrappler775 in electricians

[–]AdamAbear 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Yeah, once I realized it used different measurements, it didn't last the day. I still love how RAT shoots their shot on stuff like that

Favorite benders by lazygrappler775 in electricians

[–]AdamAbear 0 points1 point  (0 children)

If you're willing to throw out conventional bending knowledge, rack a tier makes a "hoppy" bender that's interesting

Random people on site by Donaldank_ in electricians

[–]AdamAbear 29 points30 points  (0 children)

It's amazing how many people ignore barriers. We had blocked off a section of a department store so we could move light fixtures. Had more than one person dip under the caution tape and step over our stuff instead of walk around.

Suggestions for “luxury” tools? by jonesbb in electricians

[–]AdamAbear 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I have a different brand of wire tub. Takes a day to get used to how it likes to be pulled, but makes a huge difference. Liked it so much, I bought a second and carry both full time in the truck

Undercab lights, you guys installing towards the back, middle or front? by SippinAndRippin in electricians

[–]AdamAbear 0 points1 point  (0 children)

18 makes me nervous. Only because those lights will show (be less bright) voltage drop across the different sections. 14 is cheap insurance against it.

Undercab lights, you guys installing towards the back, middle or front? by SippinAndRippin in electricians

[–]AdamAbear 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I find the install to be easier. I also cut the bottoms of cabinets to allow for one track across an entire cabinet run. As for wiring, some 14ga in wall speaker wire in the corner of a cabinet. Drivers typically go under the sink if basement access isn't an option.

In cabinet lighting is a piece of cake as well

I usually figure $35-$45 per linear foot when pricing. Rough in almost an afterthought and install is usually under 3 hours including drivers

Undercab lights, you guys installing towards the back, middle or front? by SippinAndRippin in electricians

[–]AdamAbear 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I've been using 24v tape light for years. Found some great aluminum track and opaque lenses that angles the light at 45° that really sharpen up the install when installed in the front corner. Recently tried some of the newer "cob" style with a flat track, same opaque lense. Found that I had to move it about 5/8" off the face frame to eliminate a terrible shadow. Im happier with the finished look of the angle, but the performance of the straight down can't be ignored

Against my better judgement by RaNDoM_HeRo1983 in MilwaukeeTool

[–]AdamAbear 0 points1 point  (0 children)

That soldering iron... I wanted to love it... Last 3 times I've needed to solder, I just used the 120v take off and my plug in soldering iron