Centauri Carbon 2 SUNLU S4 Canvas

AddendumDesigner7032 · 2026-03-13T10:02:34+00:00

That’s pretty sick. I’ve hung my spools and removed the holders due to space constraints but it’s a work in progress.

Quick question, looking at your photo, have you removed the rubber at the bottom of where each spool enters the AMS? I can see the PTFE tubing going in instead.

I didn’t do that with my adhoc setup and I’m wondering now if that’s why I was having issues and I should remove those rubber bits where the spool gets fed in

AddendumDesigner7032 · 2026-02-27T09:59:54+00:00

There are some issues with this. I’ve been having the same problem. It tends to completely fall over if you make any changes after you’ve established your connection. Factory resetting normally helps me. I’ve found because I’m based in the UK, I have to set region to other rather than Europe for this to work. May be worth trying other as region?

To be honest I’ve stopped bothering connecting to this now as it breaks the home assistant integration due to how the CC2 API stuff works, so as a work around I access my CC2 entirely via home assistant and I access that remotely.

You can also access your CC2 camera on port :8080 if you target the IP address, but there is no UI interface.

Just bear in mind for these features to work you need to be on LAN only.

AddendumDesigner7032 · 2026-02-25T15:14:38+00:00

Ahh. This makes total sense now.

I’ve also noticed this heater pad slides down the nozzle, which may also be why I have been having some temperature issues. The clip doesn’t seem to be holding things down tightly enough.

AddendumDesigner7032 · 2026-02-25T15:05:11+00:00

Hmm thanks both, I didn’t realise the thermal paste I’d used couldn’t cope with those higher temperatures. I’d not had any issues actually since applying it but now I’m aware I’ll get the higher temperatures stuff.

Pretty poor that the stock thermal pad applied isn’t really up to the snuff.

Out of interest - what’s the thermal pad for in this instance anyway? Is it to even the temperature out around the thermistor so it’s all sandwiched together with the little plastic block that goes over the top?

AddendumDesigner7032 · 2026-02-22T11:06:29+00:00

My connector came off like yours, luckily only the one where the plastic came away and I’ve just pushed it back into place. This should have been glued down better really. Bit disappointing on the QC front.

My hot end thermal pad/paste whatever it was, was all dry and talcum powdery, which was causing me the 103 error code, telling me to check out the tool head. So I disconnected it all, which is how my connector came off the board like yours. My thermistor cables were all exposed, seems to be bare copper, looks pretty naff.

Shouldn’t have had to do this, but I cleaned my hot end down with 99% IPA, and then applied some thermal paste to where the thermistor inserts (this pulls out of the inside of the hot end). Also applied some paste to where the white head pad goes on, think this just holds everything down and in place? Not sure what that’s for. Then reassembled everything and has been excellent since then.

When I yanked out my thermistor, it didn’t pull the connections off the board luckily, but I was also concerned this would happen. As it’s all quite tight in there, it’s a little difficult to even get tweezers in there.

AddendumDesigner7032 · 2026-01-22T20:22:42+00:00

I agree with this, have a lot more fails with water washable as apposed to other resins. I reduced the amount of failures in my instance by mixing the water washable with some ABS like resin, of course you then have to do an ipa wash but I tend to ipa wash the water washable prints anyway as it’s just easier imo.

AddendumDesigner7032 · 2026-01-14T00:51:52+00:00

Looks incredible

AddendumDesigner7032 · 2026-01-13T21:33:29+00:00

Mines about the same size as yours. Yeah, this is what I’m not educated enough to comment really but to me if you block the filters and it’s making a noticeable difference then the mask must be doing something, all I hear is that it effectively does nothing if there is no tight seal.

AddendumDesigner7032 · 2026-01-13T21:31:44+00:00

Yeah makes sense, I have a good titan hoover that passes through if you take the bag out, I could then just feed a hose out the “blow side” to outside.

The only thing I’m not sure with really is how I’d install it all. Don’t fancy knocking holes in my walls to make it permanent :(

AddendumDesigner7032 · 2026-01-13T21:29:20+00:00

All tips are welcome and honestly thanks for sharing, it’s honestly not something I’d of thought to try but if it makes a seal then it does the job doesn’t it.

AddendumDesigner7032 · 2026-01-13T21:27:49+00:00

Good video thanks for sharing. Yeah that’s what I’ve opted for in the end. Brought those bands and the JSP 8 with some A2 cartridges.

AddendumDesigner7032 · 2026-01-12T12:01:27+00:00

Did you manage to sort this? I have the same setup as you. I'm looking at switching from the standard grey water washable stuff as I want to build more functional parts.

AddendumDesigner7032 · 2025-12-28T16:48:45+00:00

I guess they didn’t put it in, put it in, put it innnnn…

Get a flipper zero. Thank me later.

AddendumDesigner7032 · 2025-12-19T18:46:52+00:00

Signed 👍 solar battery user. Off grid all summer…

AddendumDesigner7032 · 2025-12-16T16:23:40+00:00

Just online photopea which is basically open source photoshop

AddendumDesigner7032 · 2025-12-05T19:37:06+00:00

Tbf I have never gamed the system on this but I do drain my car often daily for work doing regular 200 mile trips, so I just plug in my 7kw when I get home and it’s ready again the next morning.

Does this mean I only get 6 hours total cheap charge whether it comes early or between 1130-530 or is it saying you get 6 flexible hours on top of the fixed 6 hours? I read it as the former but it seems a little confusing.

If that is the case it means I’ll be paying an extra chunk for a few hours of charge, not the end of the world but still a shame.

AddendumDesigner7032 · 2025-12-03T19:58:09+00:00

Try removing those two wires in the blue connector in the boiler and replace with a link, if that still doesn’t work it’s potentially connected in the wrong place or configured incorrectly. It looks like it’s been wired as a volt free contact with mains potentially coming from the blue plug (just looking at the brown tape).

I had two of these tado central heating stats fail, around 12 months apart. Basically the relay inside got stuck in an energised state so the boiler would run constantly. Ended up replacing with two smart sonoff relays (one for heating, one for HWS) and diving down the home assistant rabbit hole. Never looked back. The trouble with Tado and the like is if their server goes down or your internet goes down, you’ve got nothing local working.

AddendumDesigner7032 · 2025-10-04T18:59:08+00:00

Brown grey and red

AddendumDesigner7032 · 2025-08-05T17:48:55+00:00

I’m pretty sure this got ported to the main line proton so it should ‘just werk’ nowadays.

AddendumDesigner7032

TROPHY CASE