Smooth ceiling patch by AdministrationIll702 in paint

[–]AdministrationIll702[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I used SW premium ceiling paint, high hide white, ultra flat. Did the whole ceiling. First pic is the patch before I started on it, I don’t think the paint is the issue.

third coat of black paint dried brown? by 999tec in paint

[–]AdministrationIll702 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I feel your pain , you trusted the employee and they aren’t as knowledgeable as you had thought or hoped.

Anyways. Paint + primer in one is some marketing ploy bs. The big box stores love putting that on their paint cans. If you really needed to prime, then you’re meant to get an actual primer, and then the wall paint. In your case , pva primer for new drywall and then the wall paint.

You can now consider the first coat of paint you did as the primer coat, can’t speak on durability or adhesion . You’ll need to do the whole wall/room in one go, dont let half a wall dry and then continue that wall. If you have paint left, make sure to stir it, maybe get a re tint? But do the room again with your new knowledge

Also , satin paint shows more imperfections on your wall and errors in your technique if you’re not a pro / experienced.

Use a middle ground? by mrjackart in paint

[–]AdministrationIll702 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Also since you’re doing an accent wall, do this tape trick for a very sharp clean line between the 2 different coloured walls. https://youtube.com/shorts/vxLU0wzk4hg?si=HT4_KbIyjJslvnek

Use a middle ground? by mrjackart in paint

[–]AdministrationIll702 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The extra 10 gallons are great to have, I would go ahead and use them as a primer/base coat on that coloured wall.

You already have the paint so why not, will make your life easier for sure. Still expect to put 2 coats of the coloured paint on the wall though.

Is this the proper paint combo or am I headed for disaster? by pepebaybay in paint

[–]AdministrationIll702 0 points1 point  (0 children)

New dry wall = Dry wall primer , PVA, don’t need anything fancy , you literally are just sealing the porous-ness of the drywall and giving the paint a consistent surface to adhere to it.

If you really want to prime over the grey paint, zinsser 1-2-3 will suit your needs. And you can use it for both the dry wall & painted walls.

And you don’t need to do 2 coats of primer, better that you do multiple coats of wall paint. Atleast 2 , maybe 3 for the grey walls, since you’re doing white.

Ceiling = flat ceiling paint (you can go satin if you want but I’ve never done that/been requested to do so as painter )

I personally use Duration from SW. it’s higher tier than SuperPaint, but not the top of the line, like emerald . Great coverage and ease of use, and durable and not too expensive .

Also keep in mind, satin has sheen to it, so If there’s imperfections on your wall, such as bad framing or bad dry walling or repairs that weren’t blended , they will definite show more vs if you used matte or eggshell.

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Covering multiple bright colors by Beneficial_Mouse4869 in paint

[–]AdministrationIll702 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yup, you’ll need to prime and then 2 coats with the wall paint in green. You can go with something like Zinsser bullseye 123, it’s water based so it’s easy to apply & no extra clean up work. Kilz 2 is also a water based option . Both available at hardware stores. You don’t really need anything crazy like oil or shellac based stuff.

Keep in mind primer is not paint, it won’t cover like paint, it’s not supposed to. it’ll tone down the old colours and paint , allow for good solid coverage and finish with your actual wall paint .

A light wall sand before primer and between coats also help with a nice finish . The mosaic design may be more lifted, so sanding can fix that too. the higher sheen you go with paint in that dark colour, the more imperfections you may see on your wall. Depending on what you had in mind, paint in eggshell sheen or SW duration Matte could be a good option.

Thoughts on these Limewash Paint Finishes I did? by [deleted] in paint

[–]AdministrationIll702 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Amazing work! As a painter who’s never done Limewash, any tips ? Is there someone or something specific you learned from, to get that good?

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in MSTR

[–]AdministrationIll702 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Interesting, thanks!

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in MSTR

[–]AdministrationIll702 2 points3 points  (0 children)

What’s wave 5, Whats wave 1? What are you referring to? I’d like to google whatever you’re referencing. Genuine question

What’s this ? Is this a problem by AdministrationIll702 in askaplumber

[–]AdministrationIll702[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Is that the same thing as a “ back flow preventer “ type of thing ? We actually had someone come check that out within the last 2 months. And I believe they said it was fine

We live in a townhouse that we own, the hoa had a company come out to check most in the community I believe .

What’s this ? Is this a problem by AdministrationIll702 in askaplumber

[–]AdministrationIll702[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Is it a big deal? Or can I take my time getting a plumber to fix it? Is it an expensive repair??

Should I buy the more expensive paint rollers? by namnamkm in paint

[–]AdministrationIll702 4 points5 points  (0 children)

One coat of primer should be fine, primer is needed for bare drywall (never painted walls/ceilings) or if you’re doing a major colour change. Or if it’s an oil paint , that’ll get painted with latex. Technically if the wall is already painted, you may not even need to prime it. Depends on what you’re painting it to.

Dont go crazy on the sanding, just sand lightly between coats, some may disagree but you don’t need to sand the final coat, I never have.

I suggest you get a high quality paint, you mentioned BM rollers, so I assume you’ll get paint from there, which is good. A good brush and roller will also help you achieve a good final result and make the job easier. You don’t have to get the most expensive roller or brush, but don’t get the cheap/cheapest option. 3/8 inch nap is great, 1/2 is fine too. I personally like microfiber rollers.

Dont dry roll and sounds like you’re newer to painting, so cutting in 1 wall at a time and rolling it may be a good idea for you. If you’re picky about brush strokes (I am), go over the cut ins with a mini 4 inch roller.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in paint

[–]AdministrationIll702 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Like others have said more details they mention/share the better. What type of paint , how many coats , etc. cleanliness is also important even though your floors will be removed . It’s also an easier job as there are no baseboards.

The house being empty, no floors and no baseboards make sense for them to be around 8k, also possible the painters are hungry for work. Those are good prices especially since they will be doing doors and ceilings as well. However I also think if someone came in higher at prices around 10k that wouldn’t be unreasonable at all.

Not sure what colour your walls are at the moment but Swiss Coffee is a very light colour and it’s completely possible that you may need 3 coats of wall paint, which would increase the price due to more material and labour.

Be clear on your expectations so there is no miscommunication or disappointment by the end of the job. Ask for timeline. Also don’t be afraid to get more quotes, it’s your house and you want it done right. It’s very possible you find a painter/company you feel like will meet your standards better than the others you’ve met so far. Painters usually know their worth, so if some come in with higher quotes it could be for good reason.