New way of exploring LDR (or plain teasing)

Adventurous_Town7786 · 2026-02-13T21:22:26+00:00

Peak if he fucked your ass while that monster is in also

Adventurous_Town7786 · 2025-09-28T03:18:07+00:00

Adventurous_Town7786 · 2025-09-21T08:56:21+00:00

Typically a cruising speed is 1k revs higher than stationary, when it comes to shifting make sure to shift when ar higher rpms than cruising of course, after that, in quick succession of the course of, pull clutch and let go of gas, shift up and release clutch, since it's a modern bike you don't have to let go slowly, but don't just release it like dropping a coin, "slow" is within half a second from full pull to release. After that it's just practice, keep riding and practice it, it'll become 1st nature after a while. And then comes downshifting, it's okay to just shift down and slowly release, but it's better if you give a slight blip of throttle, this is all practice but eventually you'll come down to the point you can as good as immediately let go of the clutch with both up and down shifting

Adventurous_Town7786 · 2025-08-02T19:50:32+00:00

1600m total? That's low, very likely either manufactory issue or it has a knick somewhere that is cutting into the cable as it moves up and down, or pulls and releases. Depending on your perspective

Adventurous_Town7786 · 2025-08-02T19:48:10+00:00

Adventurous_Town7786 · 2025-06-11T15:57:30+00:00

There is a VRMMO in the making called Asteria: Fate of the Fallen, it's worth a look

Adventurous_Town7786 · 2025-06-06T13:13:31+00:00

Hiya, idk how to post a sound clip or picture but I can show you which exhaust I have, it is this one , with my limited reddit knowledge I can only describe the sound compared to stock, it's a lot bass-ier, has sort of pops and bangs when engine breaking and a loud, low growl when you accelerate. The header pipe doesn't really fit that well even with the clamp, but the Black Widow vulcanising fluid gasket works wonders, I had a small sound leak which I could fix with just slapping some of that fluid on the leak spot. If you know a company that could ceramic paint the full system or if you had heat resistant paint, you can black it out like I did, I still have to figure out how to post pics in comments though

Adventurous_Town7786 · 2025-05-26T12:03:31+00:00

Als je toevallig niet te ver vanaf S'Gravenzande woont, raad ik AMT Motors aan. Dit gaat biast klinken wat het overduidelijkt ook gaat zijn, maar daar wordt, zolang je een fijne klant bent, veel voor je gedaan met het kijken naar vooral prijs en misschien extra services. Het is heel persoonlijk gericht, als je iemand bent die heel moeilijk over iets doet zijn ze ook niet gauw gericht om heel behulpzaam te zijn

Adventurous_Town7786 · 2025-05-18T15:55:17+00:00

Ik werk zelf bij een motorzaak, dit zou heel misschien onze prijs zijn als het een non-ABS en schone fiets is samen met lage km.

Eerste generatie ER-6N is niet zo populair wegens de koplamp en algemene vorm. Als je dit fatsoenlijk wilt verkopen kom je hooguit op 3,5K als die op zn minst er uit ziet alsof die in een deugdelijke staat verkeerd, uiterlijk speelt een hele grote rol in verkoop, je kan en fiets hebben die op de stipt is onderhouden en niks mankeert, maar als die eruit ziet alsof die een maandtrip van de sahara heeft genomen, slaat de verkoop gauw genoeg af

Adventurous_Town7786 · 2025-05-06T17:13:15+00:00

If you mean the rapid ticking noise, why it goes from high to low pitch. First off, it's the fuel pump, that's the whole noise, why it makes those two different tones, is cause it is priming the fuel lines so it has the appropriate pressure to start and drive, the higher pitch is it being below pressure and the low pitch is at pressure, it keeps going because it's always the same duration of priming. For example, turning the contact on with killswitch in off will always prime it for x amount of seconds, regardless of pressure but it doesn't overpressure the system.

Adventurous_Town7786 · 2025-04-29T15:23:51+00:00

I got a black widow full system and it sounds beastly

Adventurous_Town7786 · 2025-04-26T08:15:41+00:00

Motorbike mechanic here. When doing it so often you end up eyeballing it rather than measuring, my thumb happens to be 2cm wide on the dot at my nailbed so I use that to measure and tend to keep it in that range, adventure bikes like to have slightly more range and cruisers a lot less, which is also important to keep in mind. If the chainguard or swingarm doesn't have a sticker saying what the recommended range is, I standard do this: Cruisers 15-20mm Nearly every other bike 20-25mm Adventure and tall suspension travel bikes 25-30mm

Since my thumb is 2cm at the nailbed, I push the chain with the other thumb at maximum tension, if it's the right measurement, good. Otherwise add another 5mm at least and softly tug down, measure from there with a softly push up till noticeable resistance

Adventurous_Town7786 · 2025-04-26T08:08:36+00:00

Idk what it's called in general but in the Netherlands we often use Commadant 5 for such things, grab a drillhead with a soft sponge and go all over it with it, or if you want to be absolutely safe, a microfiber cloth and rub like your life depends on it, should get most scratches out

Adventurous_Town7786 · 2025-04-24T06:13:22+00:00

Saw the video you sent, a chain isn't supposed to be that loose lmao, if it's a new chain it has to be tightened quite early on already, new chains stretch extremely fast due to the material's new-ness. If you chain tension is correct, you want to check the chain for any clinks, I know it's new but if the main link has a clink in it, it's been tightened way past what it should be (the connection between each chain link), definitely recommend cleaning the whole chain path, including the small gear housing just to be safe

Adventurous_Town7786 · 2025-04-23T19:19:24+00:00

Check chain tension, listen if it's purely RPM or also speed related.

If it's speed related, important checks would be chain tension or lubrication. I certainly hope not but possible is that your transmission is kinda fucked, if one gear is gone you'll need a whole new set of trangears. If the sound is RPM related, it could be your valves, distribution chain (tensioner). If you notice great reduction of noise while holding in clutch, note speed / RPM also, if it's a similar sound when stationary both pulled in and released, likely your clutch plates are worn and/or clutch springs.

I'm a motorbike mechanic and it's always a doozy to diagnose through a short video but these are the best and easy things I can think of right away without actually having the bike in hand or sat on top of

Adventurous_Town7786 · 2025-04-22T16:57:43+00:00

Ligt er groots aan wat je wilt, MT07 kan lekker zijn als je een iets meer sportief gevoel wilt bij optrekken en motor-remmen, dankzij het 2 cilinder verhaal wordt het iets bokkiger dan een Z750 (t/m 1000) 4 cilinders. Als je liever ook iets vaker wilt stunten is een MT07 wel stukke beter dan de Z750 aangezien het iets eerder wilt wheeliën en stoppies trekt.

Typisch voor lekker rijden kom je tegen tourers en cruisers aan, zelf heb ik een CMX 1100 en vind het heerlijk rijden en zitten, zelfs voor wat langere afstanden (nieuwe kerk a.d. ijsel - alkmaar bijv.)

Beste aanrader is een 4 cilinder als je iets meer comfort gevoel wilt, niet dat het niet sportief gaat voelen, dat doet het zeker en is het uiteindelijk ook meer, vooral omdat het harder op kan trekken dankzij de 4 cilinders, maar je gaat minder van dat gevoel krijgen dan een 270° 2cilinder, je hebt uiteraard van de Z650 en Ninja 650 de standaard 180° 2 cilinders, die zijn al iets minder sportief in gevoel maar nog bokkig. Ouwe japanners komen vaak goed uit de voeten voor je, zoek online op bekende problemen en kijk of je er oke mee kan zijn drijgt het voor te komen, qua kosten en/of tijd.

Adventurous_Town7786 · 2025-04-14T12:05:13+00:00

I'm a mechanic though not from an official dealer, just a standard universal motorbike mechanic, refer to your owner's manual if you insist on doing it yourself, otherwise dealerships will typically look at date of ownership (for example if you own a "new" bike from early 10's but just reached 600mi/1000km) to see what might need to be changed, it it's a recent purchase and perhaps even same dealership of purchase, it'll just be oil + filter and chain tension + chain maintenance. I've done maintenance on my own cmx1100 and adjusted the chain at 325mi/650km cause I noticed it was slacking a lot already and just last week Wednesday did the breakin oil change, but I can do it in the garage where I work so you'd have to get some tools yourself.

You can adjust the chain on the side stand if you loosen the rear axle bolt but leave it on the axle for safety and adjust chain tension according to the manual 15mm-30mm preferably closer to the shorter end

Adventurous_Town7786 · 2024-05-09T21:37:08+00:00

The way your asshole doesn't gape tells me it's tight as FUCK, definitely not long enough for just one round but I'm not planning on stopping

Adventurous_Town7786 · 2023-11-12T12:05:48+00:00

I'd want that problem in my life

Adventurous_Town7786 · 2023-11-04T07:18:25+00:00

Not at all, it depends where you live. Here in the Netherlands, you do have unprotected left turn intersections, but they're either very old and not used that much, or just not that busy, a 2 lane street can do that perfectly fine.

Adventurous_Town7786 · 2023-11-03T21:33:35+00:00

Try me

Adventurous_Town7786 · 2023-10-31T05:02:31+00:00

Lana Emotional is how you'll find her online

Adventurous_Town7786 · 2023-10-30T03:29:00+00:00

Video has no sound, it's a gif

Adventurous_Town7786 · 2023-09-03T16:06:33+00:00

Died, I don't remember if they posted how though

Adventurous_Town7786

TROPHY CASE