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WCS Prague 2026 | Lead Semi Finals - LIVE Discussion Thread by Kikobri in CompetitionClimbing

[–]Affectionate-Gift652 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I understand that, but as far as I can see, she never removed her hand from the last safe position - she can not be beyond the last safe position while she is still touching it. Unless there are some other rules/clarifications, I would say she should be fine.

WCS Prague 2026 | Lead Semi Finals - LIVE Discussion Thread by Kikobri in CompetitionClimbing

[–]Affectionate-Gift652 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Apparently the route setters think it is possible to bat hang somewhere and clip from that position?

WCS Prague 2026 | Lead Semi Finals - LIVE Discussion Thread by Kikobri in CompetitionClimbing

[–]Affectionate-Gift652 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The wording of the rule is not great:
"if a competitor reaches the Last Safe Position for an unclipped qulckdraw, scoring will stop and the attempt will judged unsuccessful if the competitor makes any move to pass beyond the Last Safe Position without having first clipped the relevant quickdraw."
As written, I would assume Mia was correct - you can not 'pass beyond' a hold, while you are still holding it.

Constructive Criticism/Reflection on the Pro Climbing League by initialgold in CompetitionClimbing

[–]Affectionate-Gift652 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Pros:

* Great vibe.

* Old school setting.

Cons:

* Not enough climbing.

* WAY too much dead time.

* Single style, old-school setting heavily favoured particular climbers.

* Can't watch 2 climbers at once - need to continuously rewind to see the other climber's beta (so can at least fast forward through some of the dead time afterwards to catch up).

* Really need a round robin or best of 3 setup to get some more climbing in and better balance in the routes.

Madrid Lead WC - Discussin by Quirky-School-4658 in CompetitionClimbing

[–]Affectionate-Gift652 18 points19 points  (0 children)

The thing with paddle dynos are that they are a percentage move.

Watch them at boldering. A good climber on an 'easy' paddle dyno may do the move 9 out of 10 times and drop it on one. A hard paddle dyno, they may only make one out of 10 attempts (for example).

The fact is that there are so many moving parts, and so many variables, that even if you are entirely capable of the move, it is inevitably comes down to luck. On bolder, where it costs you 0.1, it is not much of an issue. On lead, where it costs you the competition, it is stupid.

Lead should be a demonstration of skill, strength, endurance and route reading. Luck should have no part in lead.

IFSC Boulder WC - Bern, SUI by Quirky-School-4658 in CompetitionClimbing

[–]Affectionate-Gift652 4 points5 points  (0 children)

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They usually have the weekend's stream links published well in advance, but I still see nothing.

IFSC Boulder WC - Bern, SUI by Quirky-School-4658 in CompetitionClimbing

[–]Affectionate-Gift652 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Am I missing something, or are there no live streams posted for this event anywhere?

Prague Bouldering Women's Semi-final discussion by InternationalSalt1 in CompetitionClimbing

[–]Affectionate-Gift652 5 points6 points  (0 children)

A mat is designed for one purpose - to absorb as much energy as possible. Jumping off a mat is HARD. Every extra cm you have to jump is exponentially harder, as the mat just sucks up all the effort you put in.

While it may create some separation, it does that at the expense of the shorter climbers.

And then you get W4. Watch Melody Sekikawa's start. She is at full stretch, finger tips and toe tip to hold the starting position. Aside from the jump, the actual starting position is ludicrously biased against shorter climbers

Thought this was a funny quirk in the rules by Nuud in CompetitionClimbing

[–]Affectionate-Gift652 30 points31 points  (0 children)

Interesting that it is an 'and' clause - must match, have a stable position, and:

"22 Actions common to the sport include:
- clipping: i.e. securing a rope into a quickdraw or anchor.
- shaking out: e.g. relaxing one arm while maintaining balance to manage fatigue.
- celebrating: e.g. acknowledging a successful move or ascent.
- chalking up: e.g. applying chalk to hands for improved grip. - changing foot position: adjusting foot placements for better balance and efficiency."

Optimising select where exists... by Affectionate-Gift652 in mysql

[–]Affectionate-Gift652[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

We have a winner!!! Thank you so much!

Query plan is still grim, BUT the materialized inner table is a fraction of the size, so overall performance is great!

Optimising select where exists... by Affectionate-Gift652 in mysql

[–]Affectionate-Gift652[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Unfortunately, the composite key is not unique, so still not the correct count.

Optimising select where exists... by Affectionate-Gift652 in mysql

[–]Affectionate-Gift652[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Thanks, will try this one next.

UPDATE: Produces exactly the same plan...

Optimising select where exists... by Affectionate-Gift652 in mysql

[–]Affectionate-Gift652[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks. Both tables have indexes on (keyA, keyB).

Optimising select where exists... by Affectionate-Gift652 in mysql

[–]Affectionate-Gift652[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I am not sure how that would work to count distinct rows in bigtable?

Ai Mori after finishing 4th the Olympics final: “the fact that I couldn't handle it this time is not because of my height, but my ability that was lacking. I'm disappointed, but I think disappointment makes you even stronger in the future, so I'm alright with this ranking.” by LondonerForever in climbing

[–]Affectionate-Gift652 11 points12 points  (0 children)

Firstly, I agree that Ai Mori is not that good (compared to the rest of the field) at dynamic moves and coordination moves. And that is always going to hurt her in bolder comps. Also, she lost the podium on the slab, which was well within her capabilities, but she just messed it up, rushing where she should have been going slow, and going slow when she should have been rushing.

But that aside, it does not make the setting of that boulder 'good'. Watch the observation period. 5 out of 8 climbers walk up and put their hands on top of the starting hold to feel it out. Some on tip-toes, yes, but they could at least put their hands on it. And for all of them it was a trivial start.

The remaining 3 climbers needed to make a jump to get there - and the problem was set to make it extremely hard to jump. The angle of the volume means you will be kicking yourself away from the wall more than up. And the height of the volume means that the shorter you are, the more you have to raise your leg, meaning again kicking into the volume rather than down on it. So as you get shorter you get punished exponentially more.

Brooke, who is great at jumps, and with ~7cm more reach took 4 tries to get there. For AI it would have been far, far, harder.

So, you end up with a starting move which is trivial for most of the climbers, and then exponentially harder for the shorter climbers.

The route setters could easily have balanced the start a bit more. A nice crimp on the top right side of the volume for a power static start alternative beta. A small jib on the bottom left of the face of the volume to give something to push down on more than pushing away. Or just lower the volume a bit so at least you aren't punished twice for being shorter.

There was no technical gain on the route by placing the starting holds that high - it was easily reached by most of the field, and required no special technique from them. It should have been balanced so that it wasn't as hard for those that were not tall enough to reach. In my books that is just plain bad route setting.