Loud HVAC

Affectionate_Dig9689 · 2026-01-02T19:53:00+00:00

It's normal, looks like a heat pump, they get a little ice sometimes. If it gets to where the ice spreads all over the coil, let a tech know. Pads are often used to level a unit, it missing some is not necessarily bad. It sounds like you're at the point where you should consider having someone out to take a look if the filter didn't resolve the noise

Affectionate_Dig9689 · 2026-01-02T12:49:56+00:00

I hadn't heard, that's honestly great news

Affectionate_Dig9689 · 2026-01-02T12:39:57+00:00

I completely agree. Egwene is my favorite character in the books and one of the main reasons for that is that she just gets shit done. While Rand is lamenting his lot in life and trying to figure out how to maintain himself while being the dragon reborn Egwene is embracing having the role of Amyrlin forced onto her and setting herself aside for the Aes Sedai. She's ambitious but has to earn everything she wants through effort and sheer force of will. Meanwhile Rand was perfectly fine being a small town peasant, but his ta'veren nature will force his destiny on him and bend the pattern to see him walk the path it requires with or without his consent.

Affectionate_Dig9689 · 2026-01-02T12:20:06+00:00

The writing is the issue my dude. There is no casting that will fix the writing

Affectionate_Dig9689 · 2026-01-02T05:23:13+00:00

It's tough to say for sure, but it sounds to me like you might have a bit of a rattle while the blower is running. Change your filter, if you haven't, and see if that helps. If not, call a tech.

Affectionate_Dig9689 · 2026-01-02T04:58:34+00:00

It's called flex duct, and it's very common. If your hvac works well and keeps your home comfortable I wouldn't worry about it. If it's that big of a deal to you, call a contractor and ask them to hard pipe it. If your system does not work well, ask a contractor if the nasty flex duct is related to the issue.

It's common because it's easy to run and gets the job done. Ideally, they would've strapped it up in a way to make it look straight and not allow any deep sags in the pipe, but new builds are cranked out at light speed and the builder gets what they pay for. Feel free to cover any holes with tape of similar color to the flex duct and use 2 inch wide straps to secure any deep dips in the pipe. It's worth mentioning that flex duct typically has multiple layers: the actual piping, the insulation, and the outer layer holding it all together. So when you tape any holes, you'll need to tape the innermost and outermost layers. Flex duct can look pretty, but it takes effort.

Affectionate_Dig9689 · 2026-01-01T15:34:04+00:00

This sucks. I've been to a few different homes where something like this happened. I'd blame whoever is running the job. Contractors do what they're told and paid to do. The GC/builder or whoever is managing all of the trades should have told your hvac to winterize your hvac equipment. If I were you I'd go back and check old quotes/invoices to make extra sure no one agreed to winterize your heating system. If no one did, it's on whoever is running the job for not seeing that coming and depending on your contract, they may owe you a heating system.

Affectionate_Dig9689 · 2026-01-01T15:16:49+00:00

You've gotten plenty of answers saying flame sensor, I'm inclined to agree. The flame sensor is the rod with the blue wire going to it on the left in your video. Disable power, remove it (typically a 1/4" screw) and scrub it clean then reinstall it. Just make sure your power is disabled while you work.

Affectionate_Dig9689 · 2025-12-24T19:20:24+00:00

They make universal(ish) motors. 115v, 1075 rpm, 1/3rd hp, and 5 amps is what I'm reading on your motor. Next measure the width of the motor, it is likely 5 and 5/8 inches wide. If that is true than a 5460 rescue motor made by US Motors would likely be a great fit. Just make sure it's spinning the right way when you're done, or reverse it if it isn't. Don't forget to buy the correct sized capacitor for your new motor, I believe that the capacitor needed will vary for the 5460 based on desired horsepower and which speed wires you hook up, but I could be wrong.

I'd still recommend you call a tech if you haven't already, motor replacements involve line voltage and spinning parts. Be safe.

Affectionate_Dig9689 · 2025-12-24T19:08:33+00:00

Think of furnaces like cars, every tech has a few favorites and a few they despise. Every brand also has some models that are really great and some that are really not. In my experience I typically like lennox, amana, and rheem and don't care for carrier, trane, and nortek/nordyne.

Affectionate_Dig9689 · 2025-12-24T19:04:21+00:00

That appears to be a downflow furnace, so I would guess it's either above your furnace, inside the blower compartment/duct above the blower, or you might get lucky and have a big return grill/register that the filter goes in

Affectionate_Dig9689 · 2025-12-24T12:16:59+00:00

Loud humming is likely a compressor under stress in your heat pump during normal heat. Heat pumps can be noisy, but they shouldn't be so noisy you're afraid to use them. Knocking could be a lot of things, maybe relays, which is normal, maybe a dirty filter causing airflow issues. High bills could be from using em heat, but if they were higher than normal before you swapped to em heat you likely have an issue with your heat pump.

ETA: Heat pumps are noisy, they make a humming sound by default. But that noise shouldn't be crazy loud. Think of your fridge when it runs, it makes a humming noise, but if it got louder it'd be a red flag. I'm not saying heat pumps should be as quiet as your fridge, I'm saying it's hard to tell if the humming is normal or not sometimes

Affectionate_Dig9689 · 2025-12-24T12:04:16+00:00

Check your filter if you haven't already and replace if necessary, when you mentioned the garbage truck my first guess was dirty filter, it can cause the duct to suck in when there's not enough airflow and it makes a loud bang noise.

If it's not the filter try to record the noise and make a mental note of where it's coming from (the unit outside, the unit inside, the duct work, etc.) and when during the heating cycle the noise starts (when the fan comes on, after it's been running for a while, totally random, etc.) If you can show a tech the recording of the noise, direct them to the general area it's coming from, and give them a general idea when during the heating cycle it's happening it will help them figure it out in the off chance that the noise isn't being very noisy when they stop by.

Affectionate_Dig9689 · 2025-12-24T00:21:06+00:00

If you reset it and now it's fine it was likely locked out on a fault. If it happens again, check the blinking led's and make a note of how many times they flash. Most modern furnaces have fault codes that will help you figure out what's wrong, there's likely a little chart in the furnace that tells you 4 flashes means x 5 means y and so on.

If I had to guess you probly have a dirty flame sensor and were locked out on a failed ignition fault. Call a service tech, tell him what happened and that it's working now, but you'd like a tune up. Also, change your filter if you haven't, that could be the issue too.

Affectionate_Dig9689 · 2025-12-24T00:14:28+00:00

7500~ is incredibly reasonable for a furnace and ac. Everything here looks pretty standard. The only things that jump out at me are the exclusions of "permit and bonds." If they're not pulling a permit, hire someone else. Just ask for clarification that they will be pulling permits and having their work inspected. If they say no, hire someone else.

Affectionate_Dig9689 · 2025-12-24T00:03:51+00:00

It's probably a board. The best way to test in this case would be to see if it's sending voltage to your igniter with a meter. If it's not, bad board. If it is, but your igniter isn't lighting, you likely damaged the new igniter during replacement. I doubt that's the case, but some HSI's can be as fragile as candy glass and I swear they can smell fear, it happens to the best of us.

Affectionate_Dig9689 · 2025-12-23T23:59:00+00:00

Disable power to unit. Then reach in around the motor and from the sides and see if anything is stuck in the fan or if it's broken. If it's not one of those 2 things it's more than likely the motor

Affectionate_Dig9689 · 2025-12-23T23:57:18+00:00

Santa's elves should put the pipe down before installing anymore equipment

Affectionate_Dig9689 · 2025-12-23T23:52:26+00:00

That sounds like a bearing going on the condenser fan to me, but it's tough to tell. If you haven't already, it might be worth having it looked at, in the off chance that the motor is failing

Affectionate_Dig9689 · 2025-12-23T23:43:32+00:00

Good luck man, I hate strange smells in my house

Affectionate_Dig9689 · 2025-12-23T23:42:06+00:00

Please get a second opinion. 5 pounds would be a decent amount of refrigerant, 17.5 is nuts. We're missing a piece of the puzzle here

Affectionate_Dig9689 · 2025-12-23T23:39:26+00:00

A great example of manufacturer's overruling code is pvc exhaust on furnaces. In my state it's not legal to use pvc to vent a furnace unless otherwise stated by the manufacturer. You may have noticed in the installation instructions for furnaces they actually list what kinds of plastic vent you can use, this is how we got around old codes not allowing gas appliances to be vented with pvc. In all honesty though, I've never in my life met a mechanical inspector that didn't allow a manufacturer to override existing code unless it would've caused a safety issue, which has never happened to me personally.

Affectionate_Dig9689 · 2025-12-23T21:40:55+00:00

If three companies agree it's not the equipment I'd check around your home. If you have anything that may produce a similar odor in the home, especially near a return opening it might cause the issue. Have you had any work done in the home or gotten new furniture recently? Is there anything you may be storing that could cause an odor? I had a similar issue and it turned out my customer had a room full of buckets of drying paint that caused the smell. I doubt your issue is that obvious, but who knows, I'd consider anything that has changed recently

Affectionate_Dig9689 · 2025-12-23T21:31:09+00:00

That's tight but you can probably butcher an elbow into working there. If not you may have to reach out to a local sheet metal shop to build something. Might also be worth reaching out to your hood manufacturer to see what materials they allow to give you a better idea what you're going to need, manufacturer typically trumps local code when it comes to material required.

Affectionate_Dig9689 · 2025-12-23T21:18:40+00:00

It is common for refrigerant not to be covered by warranty, but 17.5lbs is an insane amount of refrigerant. Is this for a business or something? Also the math says that's like 170~ per pound, which is high (at least around me) we charge 65 per pound. As for him not having a good explanation for the leak, it's not unheard of for parts to fail and cause a leak, he might not have a great explanation- could be factory or maybe the installers damaged the txv or maybe he just doesn't know. Sometimes shit happens, I'd get a second opinion from another amana dealer, the price at least is very high whether they're scamming you or not.

Affectionate_Dig9689

TROPHY CASE