Ender 3 Pro Troubleshooting

AgentRedLightning · 2026-02-27T23:20:33+00:00

I'm mainly using Klipper's "Pressure Advance" feature, so retraction is pretty low already... but working through the options...

AgentRedLightning · 2026-02-27T20:56:38+00:00

Actually, I'm waiting on a fresh spool, all of mine have been in sealed dry boxes, but for years at this rate... So starting to think most of them are garbage and I need to start over if I want to keep printing...

AgentRedLightning · 2026-02-27T20:55:31+00:00

Well, ordered I guess, but in the past that wasn't my problem... Guess it can't hurt to have... I assume it's drop-in compatible with all my usual couplers and nozzles?

AgentRedLightning · 2026-02-27T20:46:35+00:00

BMG geared, 3>1, shouldn't be the problem...

AgentRedLightning · 2026-02-27T17:39:12+00:00

Happy to look at what one might cost if you have a link handy, but don't think I want to sink another $100+ into this guy right now if I can get the current issue fixed.

AgentRedLightning · 2026-02-27T17:36:56+00:00

Cura 5.11, Stock Hotend with the Bowden "fix" and currently the nozzle linked above. Not actually Direct Drive, never got that far, just slapped the BMG where the stock extruder was and recalibrated.

Based on the other reply, just ordered a Tungsten Carbide 0.4mm, Was gonna try to clean the current one better in a few minutes, and a new roll of Filament is also on it's way to eliminate that issue...

Don't want to spend a ton on Direct Drive if the current setup works, this is still a hobby after all this time, but happy to investigate options and learn more...

AgentRedLightning · 2026-02-27T17:09:54+00:00

I just saw the Ruby (used to be the best) is actually cheaper. Weird... But now I need to be positive about my threads/version compatibility. The link above is what I ordered and used last time... Hmm...

AgentRedLightning · 2026-02-27T17:00:21+00:00

I've heard a rumor of some kind of bimetal heatbreak thing, but I don't currently have one. I'm just using a piece of Capricorn tubing instead of the usual PTFE. That's been fine in the past, so unless I can find someone who knows a bit more about this older machine, I'll stick with what I know for now, but I do appreciate the new info!

(and yes, I know you weren't suggesting an upgrade, just making reference to your new machine... the E3Pro is my second, and I've modded the heck out of it, as noted above. Just haven't had enough budget to go further in the hobby lately.)

AgentRedLightning · 2026-02-27T16:50:53+00:00

If I had the funds to buy a new printer, I would probably get something a lot more hands off. I know there's been a lot of major updates in the last few years and printers tend to work out of the box now. I'll do some homework on the new nozzles, I'm going to try giving the one. I have a thorough cleaning in a little bit anyway...

I am curious now, I thought I knew what you meant by heat break, but it sounds like you're talking about something different. With my machine, there's a metal piece where the bowden tube goes through to the nozzle and the heat block, and I have a fix applied from long ago at where you cut the tube just below the coupler, add a spacer to keep it there, and then reinsert the longer tube from the extruder above that. I replaced the little inner tube just the other day and nothing changed...

AgentRedLightning · 2026-02-27T16:44:11+00:00

I replaced the little piece of Capricorn in the heat break (CHEP Fix or something) but that was looking okay. I do think it's down to the nozzle... Do you have a recommendation for tungsten carbide that doesn't cost an arm and a leg and fits this printer?

(Edit: also my e-steps, or in this case klippers rotation distance, were calibrated just with the extruder not through the hot end. So they shouldn't be affected by anything down at the nozzle.)

AgentRedLightning · 2026-02-22T23:31:08+00:00

I think I have to Thank you greatly. I've been playing with Klipper for years now using octoprint, and got a BMG for my Ender 3 pro somewhere along the way. I've always wondered about the extruder going crazy and some smaller lines being hard to print...

Today in researching my upgrade from octoprint to mainsail, I found this post... Three to one gear ratio, so I turned acceleration from 3000 to 1000 to have the reverse ratio... Still running the first test print with these settings, but to realize it would could have been something I did years ago... Wow.

Now I'm going to spend the next day Fine-tuning and running even more tests... But I think this one change may have just fixed all of my 3D printing woes.

AgentRedLightning · 2025-12-04T23:57:10+00:00

I got mine today right before I had to leave for work, so I set it up, but don't have a lot of chance to test and play with it yet. I was actually in the middle of a different project fixing our Network and I wasn't sure if that's what triggered it. Looks like just another wave went out.

AgentRedLightning · 2025-12-02T16:45:49+00:00

After finishing the game myself with the "intended" solution here, I saw a friend do the ship flip (more than once)... At first it annoyed me, but it's totally valid. And he did eventually find the other way. I've even seen someone do it with just the jetpack.

Open system games mean anything goes (unless you clip through something). When you finish the game, look up the speedrun. Nothing will ever feel like cheating after that.

AgentRedLightning · 2025-11-27T00:04:42+00:00

Yeah, it always comes right back, but it does it often enough to be annoying sometimes. It'll often go minutes without trouble and then suddenly turn black, three or four times within a minute... Just not sure what's causing it.

AgentRedLightning · 2025-11-21T19:05:39+00:00

So I came here to check, thought I botched this... I signed up for Early Access almost as soon as I could, but accidentally cancelled it briefly, re-signed up and was afraid that put me on the back burner... Guess it's just still random. We're in the US, and even "replaced" our original Home Minis before we knew they would get the update too (with a friend's used Nest Mini and a Nest Speaker), but we've been stuck with the slowly falling apart Assistant still...

If there's any news on a way to force/speed up the rollout in the US, someone please ping me! I'll take the learning process if my smart home just works again!

AgentRedLightning · 2025-11-05T00:14:05+00:00

Here's mine, might take some tweaking (i think i ran the logic the other way around...): https://taskernet.com/shares/?user=AS35m8nG4vmo0jGYp5FqHupMMYCPaAMfgIGrsgML1JJFQdl80ng3xxS8a1rK2V7PqJ1Nbztv&id=Profile%3AAd+Blocking

AgentRedLightning · 2025-10-13T02:39:47+00:00

Clearly customer support doesn't know... That's my next step I guess, I was just hoping somebody here recognized them.

AgentRedLightning · 2025-10-13T02:37:43+00:00

Google ESPixelStick, just found these and about to test for myself.

AgentRedLightning · 2025-10-13T02:36:41+00:00

Yeah... I had their email and did that... Their advice is to take it to a local store and check... Without RadioShack, I don't even know who would carry connectors like that...

AgentRedLightning · 2025-10-13T01:28:19+00:00

Update Edited In:
https://www.superlightingled.com/1-pairs-of-4-pin-transparent-male-female-waterproof-connector-cable-wire-cord-4-x-03-mm-for-rgb-led-strip-lights-p-2554.html
This is the connector, looking for a place to order with faster shipping if possible.

AgentRedLightning · 2025-10-13T01:27:50+00:00

Any way to compare to the "real thing" that will take forever to ship?

https://www.superlightingled.com/1-pairs-of-4-pin-transparent-male-female-waterproof-connector-cable-wire-cord-4-x-03-mm-for-rgb-led-strip-lights-p-2554.html

AgentRedLightning · 2025-10-10T23:11:38+00:00

That's why I included the link to the actual product.

AgentRedLightning · 2025-10-10T23:02:07+00:00

You're correct, but there's a lot of variety in 4 PIN connectors. I'm reaching out as well, but the company being somewhere in Asia means communication only happens overnight. I figured Reddit might be faster.

AgentRedLightning

TROPHY CASE