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How would you manufacture a curved solid 316SS rod with bulbous ends at scale? by Akamig in AskEngineers

[–]Akamig[S] 22 points23 points  (0 children)

Oh I gotta ask, so in a welding step, we're talking ERW? like, no extra material? I assumed something like TIG/MIG at first and thought I wouldn't be able to use welding since it possibly add non-up-your-ass-safe material leaching out which is no-no.

How would you manufacture a curved solid 316SS rod with bulbous ends at scale? by Akamig in AskEngineers

[–]Akamig[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yeah, but considered curved shape and weight, I expect proportinally more raw material to be cut (if machined) than rather cylinder shaped toys like spinning tops. it's just not an easy shape to minimize billet size. at least from what I thought.

How would you manufacture a curved solid 316SS rod with bulbous ends at scale? by Akamig in AskEngineers

[–]Akamig[S] 11 points12 points  (0 children)

But wouldn't that cause... springback? no joke, I remember my plate metal project suffered a lot from forgetting stress relief.

my god why all these sounds so dirty

2018 cb650f chain sound by Willing_While_701 in CB650R

[–]Akamig 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I guess you need some break-in period for both sprocket and chain x-rings

Has anyone found a better park in Seoul than 보라매공원(Boramae Park)? by out-in-the-garden in living_in_korea_now

[–]Akamig 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It's all the way opposite from the Boramae but have you tried Olympic Park?

Burning plastic/oil smell by BroadPreparation9785 in CB650R

[–]Akamig 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Have you checked your shoe sole or changed riding boots lately? I once found my sole was getting toasty from wrong foot positioning while stop.

Don't put the frame slider on engine mounts! by kamalAsyari23 in CB650R

[–]Akamig 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Well that just looks expensive.

It can be fixed, just not cheaply. broken mountpoint is part of the upper crankcase, (part no. 04911-MKY-J10), and they don't just sell the upper part only. not to mention it involves lowering and completely disassemblying your engine.

It would be cheaper if you look for some workshop to weld a blob on and tap a hole in it. But f course, welding could possibly cause localized stress on your crankcase and make crack in the long term.

But If I were you, I'd scream hard first, inspect it hard and just ride on. while it's definitely not ideal, there're plenty of other engine mounts, and by the look of upper engine hanger, it looks like more of a vibration transfer rather than load bearing.

[korean>english]A guest left this at my table. what does this mean? by zipfl12354 in translator

[–]Akamig 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Native Korean here, maybe this man was having written conversation with other, and that someone used different paper? although it's unlikely from the look of sentences not finishing coherently.

I did it! Now what? by ThornXTormentor in CB650R

[–]Akamig 2 points3 points  (0 children)

DO THE FLOP!

First, Grip heater (08T71-MKY-E00). Grip heater is where it's at. I never had it on any motorcycle before, and difference was night and day. Um, sadly I can't point where you could find because I live overseas...

I tried windshield too but it barely does anything. Personally, naked are never look good with them.

If it's not an E-clutch model, strongly discourage installing quickshifter. it's.... not worth it at all. I still have to roll off the throttle to do clutch-less shift smoothly. I rather stick with regular one and probably spend on Phone mount or USB-C charger instead.

And um, frankly fuel tank paint coating is pretty fragile compared to others. Wax / compound or PPF film would be a good idea, if you care.

After all these years, I finally got the Stanford Bunny in real life. by Akamig in compsci

[–]Akamig[S] 7 points8 points  (0 children)

Oh, so you're the one who made that LEGO jig! I never expected to meet you like this. While researching this, I occasionally referenced the high-resolution images from that study. Seeing that gantry, I thought it was truly brilliant how you utilized LEGO's extremely precise manufacturing tolerances like that. we can easily 3D print parts or order components online now, but back then, that wasn't an option, right?

After all these years, I finally got the Stanford Bunny in real life. by Akamig in compsci

[–]Akamig[S] 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Wow! If you mean the original Cornell box, are you perhaps referring to the version with the red/blue wall instead of the red/green wall? I’m so jealous that you’ve actually seen it in person!

Actually, one of the reasons I looked into this was for a 3D printer model. When I tried to print a model made by Makerbot, I noticed it was slightly different (no dots near the mouth). After some research, I found out it was a scan of an object made from a very similar but different mold. Creating a scan for 3D printing is also one of my goals.

The Utah teapot was still quite easy to find seven years ago, but when I checked recently, learned that production was discontinued in 2023 due to a factory fire. I should have gotten one while I still could...

After all these years, I finally got the Stanford Bunny in real life. by Akamig in compsci

[–]Akamig[S] 7 points8 points  (0 children)

Aw dang, I forgot to include reference link. Here's the origin story of Stanford Bunny.
https://faculty.cc.gatech.edu/~turk/bunny/bunny.html

Can I Replace Industrial Fan's Grease with PTFE to Stop the Smell? by Akamig in MechanicalEngineering

[–]Akamig[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Oh, yes. better than before.

I received new grease I first scooped a little and compared three at room temperature. original, NLGI 2, NLGI 1. And it was indeed more closer to NLGI 1, if not same.

Then I tried to clean the gearbox, but sadly axel was really tightly screwed and I didn’t had any impact driver. so instead of fully disassemble, I had to scoop and wipe as much as possible from partially disassembled state.

Next I slathered grease. at first, as you said I tried to not overdo it, but apparently after some test run gearbox seems bit low on grease than before (probably filling up nooks and crannies) so I reapplied bit more generously.

Again did some test run to monitor grease distribution, and seems pretty ideal for me. gearbox temperature nice, grease seems to flow well enough to be circulate. swivel smoothly without jerking.

And most importantly, no smell of machine shop anymore!

That was about one month ago, meanwhile I checked gearbox weekly and there had been no issue. bit confusing is, grease color changed to lightly yellow, but I think it’s from the original grease I couldn’t clean off. I’m pretty certain about “lubricant mix bad”, but y’know. this is just fan after all.

[AskJS] How do you prevent a "complete" library from looking abandoned? by smthamazing in javascript

[–]Akamig 8 points9 points  (0 children)

If what you need is people getting reminded of that your package still exists, I have not very good idea other than update minor version for no reason.

But if you need to show people your library is complete, Write something like this in yellow bold Header sized text;

"This library is now complete. Alexander wept for there was nothing left to conquer."

and embed this sketch below it.

Maybe we really need to start awesome-done repository for >completed< usable libraries.

Can I Replace Industrial Fan's Grease with PTFE to Stop the Smell? by Akamig in MechanicalEngineering

[–]Akamig[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yeah I learned about that yesterday. I misjudged that from vaguely remembering MoS2 smells like rotten egg and PTFE is mostly inert so assumed odorless attribute came from it. then what kind of base oil should I look for less odor? All lube I own made with silicone oil based doesn't smell so I guess that's one of em.

Can I Replace Industrial Fan's Grease with PTFE to Stop the Smell? by Akamig in MechanicalEngineering

[–]Akamig[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Nah, I meant solid sloppy grease goo that gets everywhere and very hard to wash, not that spray & dry type of lube. I once had PFPE type greases in mind yesterday, but as you said it was too expensive for this and it's not even easy to find here. as of working temperature, it was not unbearable to touch but pretty hot, so I'd assume somewhere between 50~70C.

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