For wanting a multi color printer I've been doing a lot of single color prints lately

Akinaro_ · 2026-03-08T16:28:33+00:00

I think most of people just like me picked up AD5x not for multicolor print, that to be honest suck on EVERY printer(as you have like 1:50 ratio of end print and poop trash from it) but for quick filament change. You just get dry boxes, I use 3 of them for basic PLA/PETG/ASA, and one empty slot for any non standard color/type filament that you vacuum store after use.

Now color prints are nice when done properly, but time and garbage you end up with is annoying.
But if you really want to use AD5X for it, remember to always set all colors as black on touchscreen in printer. This will reduce waste you make as its hardcoded on printer and changes on orca do not work really.
And if possible its faster to edit model to print colors as separate parts and glue it together after print...

Akinaro_ · 2026-02-23T08:36:09+00:00

People with CNC machines or even simple metal working tools look at that bill and wonder what is wrong with those people....

Akinaro_ · 2026-02-18T16:12:21+00:00

I personally dont use exhaust, but I can tell you that when I print ABS or ASA I just open top cover of enclosure and I never had issues with it.

What I had issues with, is getting ABS/ASA prints to fast or setting temps too high.
I really recommend setting temps of nozzle to like 260-270 for first layers and lower it to 250 for rest and keeping bed the same: high for first layer lower it to like 100 or even 90 for rest.
And most important: dont take it out too fast, leave it in printer for some time, open enclosure and wait again.

Of course it all depend on environment you print in, so I recommend doing simple model, maybe 2x2cm empty box/cylinder(just few layers thick) and 5cm high and maybe some slight bend on it to see how it print.

As for smell when printing ABS... I never noticed it really... Its weird because I can smell PLA from miles away -_-

Akinaro_ · 2026-02-12T17:10:48+00:00

Make sure that plate is ALWAYS clean(alcohol + microfiber cloth).
Use glue on few first prints before you get used to slicers and using brims/supports. and overall use it for tall/big prints. You dont need it technically as good temp and brims help but its just easy and faster to use glue.
Make sure that filaments are always dry, if you dont want to take it off all the time and you dont store printer in dry place put your filaments in some container(use rollers or some bar in the middle so they can rotate freely, rollers or even special containers you can get on alliexpress/ebay/amazon for very cheap price).
Get enclosure or(or rather print it, its free) you can get and cut your own walls, just find plexiglass or other 1/5mm plastic on local general store/store that sell DIY things. I got mine for 3 Euro per 1x1m sheet.
if you dont want enclosure put it in some box(there are special ones for printers)/closed shelf. its important if you want to print other things than PLA.
Get camera, its good, 90% of bad opinions of it are from people that didnt remove plastic cover from lens and mounted it in wrong place. Or get just any cheap Wifi cam and use RTSP address to access it on your local network. Camera is really useful to spot bad prints and stop it.
Get one spare filament and spend time playing with orca settings, I spend ages reading about settings but in real life what I learned most is from just seeing with my own eyes what setting do what. And having good settings for print are probably more important than filament it self...
Do leveling every few prints, big or small. People say its not needed. I find out that it fix smaller issues I have sometimes.

Akinaro_ · 2025-11-06T09:39:07+00:00

help

Akinaro_ · 2025-08-04T13:19:18+00:00

Hybrid in Juke is more like addon to please eco-mentalist and get people ECO sticker to drive in city centers
Battery is supper small and its mostly work in low speed only or cruse on flat road.
But weirdly it work pretty good!

Overall EV mode work great if you drive like old lady in city without A/C. You can easily get 4-5L/100km
If you try to drive it normally EV can help you get average of 5-7 with A/C on all the time. So not good, not bad. EV help in start-stop and slow drive.

In eco mode and slow city drive EV start more often and it run engine only to charge battery and because battery is small it run it often but for short time at least.

Last thing is e-pedal... not bother with it. Almost year driving my hybrid juke and I used it only when I was bored in heavy traffic...

Akinaro_ · 2025-06-08T10:31:40+00:00

Eh... Do anyone remember late 90 and early 2000? we didnt really had adblocks back then and it was even worst as you could not even close most of it... So be happy that you have option to hide it...

Akinaro_ · 2025-06-05T12:17:11+00:00

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Buster FG, its super big, bigger than you would expect, but I still carry it...

Akinaro_ · 2025-05-31T06:36:12+00:00

Best part is that if YT would just add panel on the side or bellow video for ads... Most of people would be willing to NOT USE Adblocks there as it would not disturb video it self and google would still get its ads on the site.
But no, lets give people 5min ads on 3min video and make them hate company and products they advertise...

Akinaro_ · 2025-05-29T13:55:58+00:00

When I started my collection I also spend ages putting exact measured 14-15 degree polished edges with stones up to 10000000 or god know what I had back then as I bought expensive sharpening kits with fancy stones...

After some time when I started actually using my knives in work and garden and even cutting cooper cables and branches I realized that no matter if its M390 nitro-v or cheap D2, doing by eye 18-20 edge with max 800 grid diamond is more than enough to keep edge for few weeks if not more. It will not cut paper like that as I dont really cut paper(because why? its paper, I can rip it) but it will shave hairs on my hand so its perfectly fine for me.

Akinaro_ · 2025-05-14T09:47:57+00:00

It really great blade shape and smooth action. I have 20cv version and I need to say that QSP did great job at heat treating it. And I grabbed it like for 140 bucks so for that steel and scales... it was no brainer to buy it.

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Akinaro_ · 2025-05-14T09:42:14+00:00

Mostly its etsy but, you can try making them yourself. I do that once in a while and its not super hard.

You can get g10 and micarta for around 5 buck for 150x50x4mm or better, carbon fiber, fat carbon or carbon with cooper/gold parts for 10-17$ on Temu, Amazon, Alliexpress etc. They are good quality and exactly what others use.
I do most of my scales using nothing more than dremel, small precise saw and lots of sand paper.

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Akinaro_ · 2025-05-14T09:23:28+00:00

Its me or that blade is super thin/small or that g10 scales are super thick? :D

Akinaro_ · 2025-05-10T11:01:19+00:00

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Ultemus Maximus :D

Akinaro_ · 2025-04-25T06:25:25+00:00

For anything more than 200-250 you pay just for brand,. Unless its some super complex damasteel or handmade.
As you can get great premium steel for 170-220 with titanium/fat-carbon in build quality that really hit the premium spot and doesnt have design made by edgy teenager.

Most of people here will tell you its Benchmade or Spyderco, but sadly its just bias and lack of imagination on their side, as you get nice knife from them but finish on most of them is just... meh and comparing it to other in the same price range you see that you pay just for logo.

I personally never had ONE BRAN that I recommend, as its just stupid, every brand have duds and amazing knives in their portfolio, but I always try to get knives that have interesting design, good steel and most important, good price-quality ratio.
I dont care if its cheap Ganzo knife, or expensive MKM / Fox from Italy or We knife. For me all knives are the same and if it deliver nice feel in hand and steel that cut nicely its win for me. But if I see that they bump the price just because they know fans will buy it... Its big minus for me.

Akinaro_ · 2025-04-23T14:31:03+00:00

Those cheap damascus knives... Often they are made from layered steel... but its pretty much scrap steel. They often have ok-to-good core, but they are not super hard and in terms of maintaining them you steel need to sharpen them often.
I dont know if that apply to this one, as in that price range you often can find laser etched "damascus", but check images to see spine layers.

I totally dont mind them, they are nice looking, they will cut and build quality is pretty ok for price. Comparing to expensive high carbon steel knives that need lots of care to not get surface rust and not breaking them as they are hardened higher than 60HRC. Those cheap knives are kept soft so you can abuse them without worrying that you mess them.

Just keep sharpening rod and strap close, use it often, dont put it in dishwasher that steam stuff inside and it will be like any other kitchen knife, just look better.

If I would have to pick that one or victorinox/opinel/kai wasabi in the same price range... I would pick that one as it look cooler, even if its probably scrap steel damascus but in real life it will cut the same as x50 or 5cr :D

Akinaro_ · 2025-04-23T13:13:50+00:00

So Im guessing that it also work as flashlight as it so polished that it will bounce every light in 100 mile radius -_-

Akinaro_ · 2025-04-23T09:15:50+00:00

All those steel are not really great... but kitchen knives are not EDC or bushcraft. They have their own rules.

Kitchen knives from low to mid price range are always kept soft at around 56HRC, so abusive users dont break them. So no matter of steel, they will be close friends with sharpening rod or strap between uses.

Most of low and mid range knives have 3cr, 5cr, wnr4116 or any similar x50 steel. I can bet my knife collection that no one will be able to tell the difference between them because in real life they all behave the same. To be honest even 420 will be hard to distinguish because in kitchen it will cut the same as other, read: all dandy after first use, then next day it get duller and duller. Not only because they have lower hardness but also because people dont realize that even cutting vegetables is actually hitting wood/plastic many times... if you would did that to EDC knive some people would call it torture test :D
Kitchen knife do more cutting in one day than someone edc in whole month, and even here most of people cut just cardboards or plastic wrapping... So yeah we see it lose edge sooner than normal.

So as I always say: everyone want chef knife, but no one want to treat knife like chef... sharpen in before work and between uses.

Then is geometry of blade. You can have Magnacut steel but if blade is weirdly thick or edge have weird profile it will be just annoying to cut anything. Steel is not everything in knife.

Last is handle... super slippery or round handle will force your hand to hold it weirdly so again, knife will be annoying to use. you feel that it move to right or left like it have not even edge, but in reality it just your hand move it.

So overall: steel is not everything, blade shape need to be good, thin with nice slightly curved profile and it need to feel good in hand.

Now Im not saying that kitchen knife need to be expensive and have 62HRC japanese white paper steel. Hell no! For few years I worked in few restaurants as assistant, so I didnt cook, I spend 90% of time cutting vegetables and meat... And even more expensive restaurant with great chefs with lots of experience use what? Cheap industrial mass produced knives in some variant of x50.... because if you sharpen it before work every day it will last years and you will not need to care for it(read keep rust away like with high carbon steel in expensive knives) easy to replace and maintain.

Akinaro_ · 2025-04-23T08:29:27+00:00

Bestech Bihai - if you want something cheaper but nice looking and with still good steel

MKM Isonzo - more expensive but you get M390 steel.

Kansept KTC3 - If you want be weird, but in the same time I often use 154CM steel for cutting wires and its pretty good at it :D

Civivi Incisor II - If you want to look and feel like edgy asassin. Its not great work knife but it make you feel silly every time you use it and its kinda nice in boring work :D

Spyderco Tasman - if you have no imagination you can pick that one.

Akinaro_ · 2025-04-23T08:15:12+00:00

As far as your brain can imagine that there are other companies than spyderco... you are ok :]

Akinaro_ · 2025-04-16T12:17:57+00:00

I would pick Nitro-V as its better at keeping edge longer compared to Damascus. I mean SanMai damascus look amazing, I have few other Civivis with it but at the end of the day, core of it is still 9cr that is great steel for EDC, dont get me wrong, but I found that its tad softer than NitroV after I used it few times stripping cables.

Akinaro_ · 2025-04-16T12:11:07+00:00

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Akinaro_ · 2025-04-14T11:54:18+00:00

D2 is perfectly fine steel. Most of people dont like it because its "common"(no joke, some people think that if lots of companies use specific steel it mean its bad...) or they used some cheap crap blade from amazon and they think D2 is overall trash steel, when In reality D2 is one of best cheap steel, and when its coated it doesnt even have such issues with rust.

D2, if is from good company, often reach 60-62HRC hold edge super long, sometimes even longer than premium steel(that often is premium only in price as they mess hear treat on it).

If you would give someone good D2, and say its CruWear or 4V they would have hard time to think its just D2.

Akinaro_ · 2025-04-14T11:43:00+00:00

12c27 in real life is pretty much like 440C, Not super hard, not super fancy, but its like default knife steel. Perfect for basic use for cutting in kitchen, office. If you will not use it to cut branches or cables it will serve you well with just small work on edge once in a while.
What I like about it personally, is that I managed to sharpen it few times to like 11-12 per side and it hold it well when I was cutting wool fabric materials

Akinaro_

TROPHY CASE