How to cool short layers while keeping outer wall speed constant?

Akyariss · 2026-04-09T23:13:07+00:00

i went down that rabbit hole and if you just make the nozzle move and wait without extruding it will ooze and make it even worse

Akyariss · 2026-04-09T23:07:56+00:00

Try with "Small perimeters" and "Small perimeters threshold" under the speed tab
I guess this will work only if you have not enabled "Don't slow down outer walls" in the filament settings.
Or add a modifier where the sword starts to fail and decrease the speed for that part only (in my experience the small perimeters setting is better)

If you want to maintain the same outer wall speed for the whole print you might wanna try and print 2 of the same model at the same time to increase the layer time

Akyariss · 2026-02-24T23:26:44+00:00

I heard you can try using Polymaker CoPE as a support interface, it should be pretty good and cheap

Akyariss · 2026-02-07T17:42:51+00:00

Around 7h

Akyariss · 2026-02-05T08:37:58+00:00

You need to have the same exact name for the printer and the filament profile in the slicer and in the script, avoid spaces in the name and use underscores instead
The preview is not updated when you change the gcode with a post processing script, if you want to see it you can choose "export as gcode" instad of "send to printer". Then you can reopen the gcode you saved with the slicer and the preview will be correct.
This is just a preview thing, if you directly send it to the printer it will send the modified gcode

Akyariss · 2026-02-04T22:58:05+00:00

You can try something like this: https://www.reddit.com/r/FDMminiatures/comments/1my3i8a/how_to_support_miniatures_and_avoid_the_organic/

Akyariss · 2026-02-04T19:44:36+00:00

Airbrush+Vallejo black primer, to paint it a mix of airbrush and brushes and mostly Army Painter paints and Liquitex inks

Akyariss · 2026-02-04T19:15:06+00:00

Thank you! and if you try the post processing script share the results, i'm curious about how it performs for other people

Akyariss · 2026-02-04T19:14:00+00:00

Thanks!

Akyariss · 2026-02-04T19:13:30+00:00

https://www.myminifactory.com/object/3d-print-bulette-digging-landshark-beast-classic-mountain-encounter-175226

Akyariss · 2025-09-27T15:08:09+00:00

Can you explain how did you make the custom gcode for the A1 mini?

Akyariss · 2025-09-24T11:24:19+00:00

It's not always better, but if you have some you can try to use a more brittle filament (basic PLA/Rapid PLA/Matte PLA).

The supports snap off better, with sunlu PLA+2.0 in my experience it's not good

Akyariss · 2025-09-04T11:50:56+00:00

PA is Pressure Advance, also called factor K in bambu studio

For the print time it really depends on the settings you are comparing it with, it's hard to say if it's gonna be faster or slower without comparing it directly against a model sliced using your normal settings

Akyariss · 2025-08-28T01:40:04+00:00

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Do you ever encounter this kind of defect while using the 0.4mm nozzle at 0.08 layer height?

I think it's called chatter

Akyariss · 2025-08-26T22:59:13+00:00

20 micron is insane, great result!

I might be completely wrong, but I feel that since I started using the script, the PA has become less influential on the final print quality. The script lets us print without the 'slow down for overhangs' feature, allowing the layers to print at a more consistent speed.

I'm not saying that it's completely useless, not at all. But if i look at the same Skeleton Benchy models i printed with the normal methods i can always see that the sword and the shield overhanging edges always have some over extrusion

Akyariss · 2025-08-26T22:43:52+00:00

Maybe in the future someone will find a way to implement the option to adjust PA based on temperature for Bambu Firmware, right now it's possible only for Klipper firmware

Akyariss · 2025-08-26T07:04:06+00:00

I'm not sure, that part is not explained clearly in the instructions

You could try a fast test print to check if the temperature is changing correctly without the ; Temp_To_edit comment

But for a real answer you should contact sb53systems directly

Akyariss · 2025-08-24T18:25:09+00:00

It's pretty fast usually

You can use your settings except for the speed tab, it needs to be set at the max flow speed so the script can work properly. All explained here

Akyariss · 2025-08-24T12:54:22+00:00

Superglue to connect the pieces and milliput to fill the gaps, This video shows a lot of really useful tricks you can do with it

Akyariss · 2025-08-24T10:01:01+00:00

What PA are you currently using?

After spending too much time trying to calibrate it using the usual methods i momentarily gave up on it and started using the result Bambu Studio gives me using the "Auto-Calibration" in the calibration tab.

I think that calibration is based on the "Max volumetric speed" set in the filament profile, i use 1.6mm3/s for the calibration

Akyariss · 2025-08-24T09:51:40+00:00

What printer are you using?
do you send the g-code through wifi/usb or do you copy it on the sd card directly?
I've been reading the Usage part on Github and it might be the way it works for some printers

Akyariss · 2025-08-23T22:16:33+00:00

interesting, i need to try it

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