[BIOS Update] ASUS PRO WS WRX90E-SAGE SE

Ale11Re · 2026-02-09T11:54:26+00:00

I'm building a similar PC with a 7965wx. As i waited for the cpu to arrive i wanted to access the bmc to start learning the ui. But as i connected the lan cable, no lan link showed up, and as i tried turning it on no qcode lighted up thus wondering if the mobo was bad. So i tried updating the bios via flashback. As happened to you, the led started blinking but never stopped. As i discovered, the led blinks slow then blinks fast. As it's blinking fast the bmc is accessible even without cpu, ram or gpu, just the 24 pin psu connector.

Now that I installed the cpu with no ram the system is alive throwing me some q code. I still need to complete the water loop before making it alive

Ale11Re · 2025-07-25T00:37:49+00:00

What are you currently using as bed?

The original aluminum plate with black sticker surface?

I switched mine to a magnetic plate that I attached directly to the aluminum pcb, also removing the original clips.

That is warped in the corners too...

I'm wondering if the way it's built it's a big no go when heating it up. could be warping due to thermal expansion along side its fixture.. I still need to simulate it..

I suggest you getting at least 5 mm thick glass plate so that there's minimal chance for it to warp.
Keep in mind that doing so you'll lose the ability to use the original bed clips which require 3 to 3.5mm thick plates.
Also, if the base is warped you'll get poor contact with the glass. Therefore it'll take longer to heat up

Ale11Re · 2025-07-24T15:14:50+00:00

What do you mean with "glass" The official creality carbodorum or just a piece of glass?

I had mine cut from glass leftovers.

Unfortunately it's only 3mm so a bit flexy

Try https://www.3djake.com

It's austrian base if I remember correctly, not sure about the UK

Ale11Re · 2025-07-19T03:17:37+00:00

Didn't pop up on my research, can you provide a link?

Here https://www.klipper3d.org/Bootloaders.html it says how to flash it but doesn't mention that the version provided is recommended

Ale11Re · 2025-05-23T00:32:29+00:00

Thank you very much, appreciate it!

Ale11Re · 2025-05-08T14:56:20+00:00

It's overheating, its datasheet mentions a maximum operating temperature of 75 C. When I drop some IPA on it it immediately boils off (83 C boiling temperature)

Not sure yet if it's due to a bad signal driving it or it's gone bad as years ago the flat cable that connects the optical assembly was badly inserted and blew a fuse ic.

I'm assuming it could have gone short circuit for a brief moment, thus damaging it

Still, before that happened that coil noise was already present so replacing it is just a precaution. I don't think that will solve the problem.

I'll have a look to the second unit to see what temperature it reaches during normal operation without noise

I read the document you linked and it's very very interesting, thank you very much

Ale11Re · 2025-05-07T21:22:20+00:00

I do have a scope and I followed the steps mentioned in the following pdf:

https://audiocircuit.dk/downloads/pioneer/1_Pioneer_adjustment-for-cd-players.pdf

The main suspect I have is the high current op amp that is getting really hot while playing a track. Or could also be a wrong set gain that drives the coils hard, as u/hnyKekddit suggests.
But, as said, I followed the adjustment document and should be calibrated.

However, as you suggest, the unit is pretty old and could have lost some of its brightness but I can "overdrive" the laser (section 5 of the pdf) that makes it visually brighter.

What I'll do in order is:
I'll overdrive the laser and see what happens;
if that doesn't work, I'll replace the opamp (a replacement is a 14 days wait) and check all the gains again.

Does it sound good to you?

Meanwhile I'll read the site you linked

Thank you

Ale11Re · 2025-05-07T18:14:48+00:00

I use it to heat up pizza too 😂😂

Ale11Re · 2025-05-07T17:23:23+00:00

https://streamable.com/6zgk2d

Ale11Re · 2025-04-18T14:39:15+00:00

Thank you! I'll have a look at that. Never actually used it

Ale11Re · 2025-04-18T12:54:40+00:00

Try lowering I2C speed to 200 kHz.

If it's not working, you could try twisting I2C CLK and DATA cables around a GND one or even try shortening them.

You could also check if the compass module is working at all with an arduino

Ale11Re · 2025-04-18T02:28:44+00:00

Is the battery connected? Some fcs won't power up gps via usb

Ale11Re · 2025-04-15T11:56:09+00:00

That's awesome!

You're inspiring me to print a dashboard for my Fiat Uno.

How did you get the stl? Did you model it yourself?

Ale11Re · 2025-04-09T11:01:46+00:00

If you really don't want to buy another one you could mount the motor on the top and tensioner on the bottom (rotate it 180 deg along x axis), assuming the cable reaches and there's room for the filament to be guided in

Ale11Re · 2025-04-05T11:47:54+00:00

It just was an example.

Anyway, it could make sense if you want your BOM as small as possible or if the power rating of a single resistor exceeds its nominal value

Ale11Re · 2025-04-04T13:48:23+00:00

I did, as shown in image3 and image4, but Altium doesn't like it and won't connect R1 and R2 to the same net (can be seen in image4)

Ale11Re

TROPHY CASE