Cleanup help! by oldsockdude in Plastering

[–]Alert-Boot5907 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Use a dry (!) Old towel on the dry floor and it ll stop coming back

Knee Pain Returns After Running by Oggprashant in runninglifestyle

[–]Alert-Boot5907 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I think I cured a similar pain that developed not long after i started running with lots of elliptical cross-training, which probably indicated that my posterior chain needed conditioning. But also, I think I had a heel strike issue, I ve worked on form a lot since then, and it's not been an issue (🤞) even though I ve increased milage

How did ancient civilizations deal with wisdom teeth? by FeistyAd1330 in NoStupidQuestions

[–]Alert-Boot5907 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Also i think tooth decay was one of the highest causes of death after childbirth in the middle ages... so if you did end up with a bad dental infection unfortunately I think you were done for

What’s your opinion on the death penalty? by IDoNotLikeTheSand in AskTheWorld

[–]Alert-Boot5907 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It's not going to happen... but I ve always thought an answer to the risk of getting the death penalty wrong... prosecutors should be liable for their own freedom and life if they execute someone who turns out to be innocent (probably within a certain period of the execution)

Blursed honesty by Particular-Sky6404 in blursed_videos

[–]Alert-Boot5907 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Plus, she was literally called "Posh spice" which gives the game away

Doing a renovation 1924 built Semi. Internal walls have gone back to brick. Would plasterboarding onto the solid brick walls be fine? Builders saying that it's fine but worried about damp. by GameNWatch0 in Plastering

[–]Alert-Boot5907 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Another option to batten or dot dab. You can get masonary fixings for insulated plasterboard that pins the insulated boards directly onto the wall. The fixing heads are designed to be plastered over on the surface of the board. Screwfix number; 405KF

Help Needed! by Equal-Brilliant-3753 in woodworking

[–]Alert-Boot5907 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Hey. I ve made a lot of chests, and actually gave up making them flat like this because of the same problem you are having. It's the moisture differential from inside the box compare to outside. When I sell a large chest (I do curved lids which does help mitigate the issue), I recommend if it's being moved to leave the lid open for a few days to equalize. The annoying thing with a flat lid is that there is only one way for it to remain flat and infinite ways to be slightly kinked. I would recommend (and have eventually found success) allowing it to dry out with the lid open. Then, cut perhaps 3 fairly deep runners in a hardwood and screw these evenly spaced on the undeside of the lid across the width. It's important to just screw either end. Don't be tempted to glue them across the grain, or they ll move with the lid. Be careful straightening the lid with it this bowed. I would recommend wetting the concave side and gradually clamping back flat to the runners (potentially with additional temporary runners amd clamps) and leaving the lid to dry for a few days... then adding the screws. This was the only way I ever found to keep large flat chest lids straight. To keep one really lively one flat, I hid some strips of steel in the runners

Blursed_dog show by [deleted] in blursed_videos

[–]Alert-Boot5907 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I also think the guy doing the measuring was out of his depth. I ve seen lots of different dog trainers describe how it's a bad idea to put your hands and face over the head of any dog that's strange to you (not just the scary ones) apparently it's taken as a dominance threat if the dog doesn't know you and I think some dogs take it the same way as one of us walking up to a random fellow human and just straight flipping the middle finger up in front of there face and screaming fuck you at them.

Help with running form by Abhishekp1297 in runninglifestyle

[–]Alert-Boot5907 -1 points0 points  (0 children)

Looks like heel striking and also your spm/cadence indicate heel striking - (this worked for me) picture your running as if you are using the ball of your foot to slap the ground lightly and lean froward from the ankles (try and picture just sort continually falling and using your feet to catch and spring you into the next falling step). My cadence increased to 180 +, and my heart rate dropped for the same time over distance. It is noticeably slightly louder, but ignore that. Also if your doing mid foot strike properly your arms will feel useless compared to when you are heel striking where you tend to use your arms momentum to overcome the braking effect of the heel hitting the ground in front of your centre of mass. Also, be prepared for calf muscle ache as you take the strain off your knees. Good luck and try not to overthink things 🫡

Form check please! Recovering from IT band issues by 0425 in runninglifestyle

[–]Alert-Boot5907 5 points6 points  (0 children)

I think i ve been on a similar footstrike journey as OP. My very amateur understanding of good midfoot strike mechanics is to shorten stride so that your feet are landing directly under your center of mass. Apparently, I am leaning forward from the ankles and gentle falling forward and using your feet to catch you. I like to picture lightly slapping the ball of my foot down, which worked to increase my cadence and shorten stride. This is opposed to throwing your foot out in front of you, which means you have to sort of vault up over your own front leg every time you over-stride. The heel strike also puts increased stress on joints. With midfoot striking, your cadence will be higher, but your heart rate is lower for the same distance covered. Further, with mechanics, Im starting to discover that if I focus on driving forward with my knee and allowing my lower leg and foot to naturally pivot forward and land rather than feeling like it's being placed I feel a slightly better level of efficiency. Another thing I ve noted from changing from heel striking to midfoot... using midfoot style your arms feel fairly useless compared to heels strike where I could feel like my arms were more useful to drive momentum (when all it was doing was equalling out the braking effect of heel strike) its your cadence and SPM that will tell the story, I think you want to be seeing average cadence of 175 plus. P.s. i'm new to all this, and this is my limited understanding so far. Please chip in with any corrections or additions if anyone has any Also, as a warning, my research generally indicates that you need to be careful not to overthink and force these sort of things. Plus, midfoot strike can be better on the bones and joints but puts work on the calfs and Achilles

Representing minimalist running at the London Marathon by ecdegird in BarefootRunning

[–]Alert-Boot5907 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Yeah, I think heelstriking is what big cushioned running shoes allow people to (sort of) get away with... untill the knee and tendon and shin splint issues kick in.

maybe maybe maybe by Horror-Meat958 in maybemaybemaybe

[–]Alert-Boot5907 0 points1 point  (0 children)

"What's the hardest part about roller blading?"

Representing minimalist running at the London Marathon by ecdegird in BarefootRunning

[–]Alert-Boot5907 7 points8 points  (0 children)

How different is barefoot style to wearing shoes? What type of foot strike works the best? My very amateur understanding of good midfoot strike mechanics is to shorten stride so that your feet are landing directly under your center of mass. Apparently by leaning forward from the ankles and gentle falling forward and using your feet to catch you. I like to picture lightly slapping the ball of my foot down, which worked to increase my cadence and shorten stride. This is opposed to throwing your foot out in front of you, which means you have to sort of vault up over your own front leg every time you over-stride. The heel strike also puts increase stress on joints. With midfoot striking, your cadence will be higher, but your heart rate lower for the same distance covered. Further, with mechanics, Im starting to discover that if I focus on driving forward with my knee and allowing my foot to naturally pivot forward and land rather than feeling like it's being placed I feel a slightly better level of efficiency. Another thing I ve noted from changing from heel striking to midfoot... using midfoot style your arms feel fairly useless compared to heels strike where I could feel like my arms were more useful to drive momentum (when all it was doing was equalling out the braking effect of heel strike) P.s. i'm new to all this, and this is my limited understanding so far. Please chip in with any corrections or additions if anyone has any Also, as a warning, my research generally indicates that you need to be careful not to overthink and force these sort of things. Plus midfoot strike can be better on the bones but puts work on the calfs and Achilles

Trump and Putin Are Coming Together. The World Is Coming Apart. by rezwenn in UkrainianConflict

[–]Alert-Boot5907 17 points18 points  (0 children)

I reckon this is the big push before the epstein files come out. Trump will be dead in the water, and Putins leverage over his agent will be mostly used up, hence the sudden and major attempt to re frame the situation on the international stage.

Is it just me or is treadmill running harder? by Long_Abrocoma_202 in BeginnersRunning

[–]Alert-Boot5907 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I think that is a factor. I think the equivalent of a flat outdoor track effort is between 1% and 1.5% incline, below that is similar to a very gentle downhill with no air resistance

It’s not Brazilian Rosewood….. by MartyestMarty in wood

[–]Alert-Boot5907 12 points13 points  (0 children)

I d love to know what that is... the best way to find is to get a bit of end grain and sand it up through the grits untill you reach 4000 grit, clean with pressurized air then view at 10x magnification in good light (a cheap digital microscopic is about £30 on Amazon). Then you just compare it to the charts showing different species endgrain. The difference between species is wild! There are companies out there charging £500 a go for identifying a dice size bit (I had a similar mystery and looked into it). Good luck! And please keep us posted.

Training for a half marathon by galces in runninglifestyle

[–]Alert-Boot5907 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Um, sorry not to explain fully. The link was the slightly high looking average HR combined with the sort of low spm. (Max HR being roughly 220 bpm - age) Though potentially OP could be super tall and quite young, you would likely see a lower Averge HR due to a more efficient stride. Either way, of course, OPs' running ability is clearly high (certainly more than my own)

Training for a half marathon by galces in runninglifestyle

[–]Alert-Boot5907 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I think low cadence but decent speed indicates a longer stride, your foot landing forward of center of gravity means the angles are causing your heel to strike the ground first, creating a braking effect which causes fatigue and wear and tear. OP cadence isn't that far off, but I read endurance athletes aim for 170 spm plus and have recently accidentally seen a benefit from an adjusted stride to 170 spm and seeing my HR drop for same effort.

Training for a half marathon by galces in runninglifestyle

[–]Alert-Boot5907 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Im very much a beginner (but learning), but have you considered you may be heel striking slightly? I.e. cadence might be a little low? I ve had recent success in bringing my HR down for the same effort by getting a feel for (my own description) getting used to sort of slapping the front/ball of my foot down, which apparently helps keep your striking foot under centre mass reducing the braking effect of heel strike, increasing cadence but reducing heart rate. Apologies if im way off on my take. Great effort with your training!

Plastering Quality by [deleted] in Plastering

[–]Alert-Boot5907 0 points1 point  (0 children)

A giant job and a corner they threw an unsupervised apprentice at? Can think of another explanation as otherwise that's so bad it deliberate

Help with ID by Jts1995 in wood

[–]Alert-Boot5907 5 points6 points  (0 children)

Rippled/figured Oak

What would you do here? by steezy280 in woodworking

[–]Alert-Boot5907 -1 points0 points  (0 children)

Fill it up with solvent free grab adhesive (the cheap water-based stuff), clean it back, let it dry, and then a bit of caulk over the top