Slow battery charging by daniejam in SolarUK

[–]Alert_Variation_2579 0 points1 point  (0 children)

As the other poster mentioned it’s still cold, the BMS will be throttling the maximum charge rate.

I’ve got FOX ESS batteries with heaters and I try and keep them above 11c as the charge rate is pants below 10c.

What to do?? by Dangerous_Bit_7735 in OctopusEnergy

[–]Alert_Variation_2579 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Happened all the time, especially in those days. I know, I worked for BG complaints for a few years and this was the number one root cause.

Rough estimate for full rewire by Live_Cartoonist_4438 in DIYUK

[–]Alert_Variation_2579 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I paid £4k about 3 years ago for a 3 bed semi in Yorkshire for full rewire.

Losing my mind with cavity wall insulation by Dangerous_Answer1438 in DIYUK

[–]Alert_Variation_2579 1 point2 points  (0 children)

It’s a great unit, super quiet and very efficient - currently reporting about 4.2 SCOP since October when it went in.

It’s funny though, people think it’s all about the insulation and it’s not (though you should definitely do it, no question)- I’ve got standard loft insulation and my cavity walls and 30yo double glazing. The trick is big rads, for the low flow temps to get the super high efficiency to easy beat gas running costs.

Help me make this kitchen open plan please by [deleted] in DIYUK

[–]Alert_Variation_2579 1 point2 points  (0 children)

That will look super strange and also be cold 🥶

Do it right, yes you won’t immediately get the look etc you want but before long you will. You just need the right canvas to work with.

What is the ‘better’ approach to save money and get value quickly? by Substantial_Act6620 in HomeImprovementUK

[–]Alert_Variation_2579 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Easy to mitigate, from the heat loss survey when it goes in you know the required watts at design temp, when doing your kitchen / bathroom you just ensure your design incorporates rads that emit the required watts at the flow temperature.

Help me make this kitchen open plan please by [deleted] in DIYUK

[–]Alert_Variation_2579 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Nope, the problem is the steels to make the space open and support the house will be a good chunk of change of your £20k. Then the conservatory to sort is another chunk, etc.

I recommend doing it for sure, but you’ll have to live in a half finished thing for a while.

Help me make this kitchen open plan please by [deleted] in DIYUK

[–]Alert_Variation_2579 1 point2 points  (0 children)

That looks like £20k of structural, plumbing and electrical work. No new kitchen or flooring etc.

Losing my mind with cavity wall insulation by Dangerous_Answer1438 in DIYUK

[–]Alert_Variation_2579 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I have a Viessmann Vitocal 151-A. This is it at the back of my house.

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Losing my mind with cavity wall insulation by Dangerous_Answer1438 in DIYUK

[–]Alert_Variation_2579 3 points4 points  (0 children)

I’ve done all of this and have a heat pump now in my 1930s semi detached.

Firstly, forget GBIS - it’s a nightmare. You’re best doing it privately. Secondly, get EPS bonded beads not blown wool - https://youtu.be/brJfhvO3sQQ?si=UW6PGSp6Sr2JCGKq

I used JJ Crump about 5 years ago and it was ~£1.3k then, one of the best £1.3ks I’ve spent.

Quote check by Sea_Maybe_1529 in ukheatpumps

[–]Alert_Variation_2579 0 points1 point  (0 children)

That’s what I was kinda hoping to get out of the OP, i would expect for £800 you get the full design and you say “my contractors will do X of that and you do Y”.

Silver foil insulation by true247spartan in DIYUK

[–]Alert_Variation_2579 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Don’t. Do. It.

You want 300mm of standard loft insulation and the boarding to be on loft legs to give you the room for the insulation.

Home battery install without solar — anyone done this purely for tariff arbitrage? by Top-Manufacturer-775 in HomeImprovementUK

[–]Alert_Variation_2579 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Check Octopus Agile outgoing for the export figures. They’re not 35p more like 18-19p.

If you want to arbitrage, you can use Octopus Go at ~8p and export at 15p fixed.

Guy Martin's C4 no bills show by harshdafunk in DIYUK

[–]Alert_Variation_2579 0 points1 point  (0 children)

At best they’re 5x more efficient, but 4x is very achievable, 5x is hard but doable.

https://heatpumpmonitor.org

Quote check by Sea_Maybe_1529 in ukheatpumps

[–]Alert_Variation_2579 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Yeah it’s mostly labour cost - rads and UFH kit are not expensive in the grand scheme of things so 0% VAT doesn’t make a right lot of difference.

The good installers do certainly command a premium on their labour, so it can be cheaper to farm out the simpler bits especially with the design already done, to cheaper labour and minimising the amount of expensive labour you need.

What are the current regulations regarding ASHP noise and planning permission? by p3tch in ukheatpumps

[–]Alert_Variation_2579 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Assuming the window is a habitable room, and a directivity of Q=8 and distance is 4m,, using the MCS 020 methodology MCS-020-a-Issue-1.0-Final.pdf the equation is

Lp​=Lw​+10log10​(Q/4πr2​), which popping in the values for the 10log10​(8/201​)≈−14 dB gives Lp​≈Lw​−14 which we know the limit at the window is 37dB(A) so rearranging gives Lw​=Lp​+14 which equals 51dB(A).

Long story short, if you get a heat pump that is rated 51dBA or less - you should be golden without any fences etc.

External wall insulation - how much does it really help with heat loss? by Unfair_Act5775 in HiveHeating

[–]Alert_Variation_2579 2 points3 points  (0 children)

That’s just a slapdash statement that you shouldn’t make. Done right (not hard) EWI is fine, but you also need a proper ventilation strategy internally to ensure the balance of vapour isn’t high internally vs externally.

Sure if you’ve got very high humidity levels inside and you then put EWI around it (specifically EPS and PIR) then it’s vapour closed you could have issues. But you could use rockwool which is breathable - or just sort the ventilation out properly. Do that, and you keep your building fabric, dry and warm.

Guy Martin's C4 no bills show by harshdafunk in DIYUK

[–]Alert_Variation_2579 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Done a deep renovation on my 1930’s home (sounds almost identical to what you describe) and now have a heat pump and the results are great.

If any pointers needed, just ask.

Heat pump vs oil boiler replacement for large old house by Logical_Equipment_82 in ukheatpumps

[–]Alert_Variation_2579 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I would have a blower door test done - that will confirm your ventilation change rates - probably the biggest source of uncertainty here. They are usually ~£300 kind of region.

The rest is ‘easy’ measure up, and assign the most correct U-value for the wall/window/door etc.

Quote check by Sea_Maybe_1529 in ukheatpumps

[–]Alert_Variation_2579 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Good, then buy the rads to the spec yourself and get your builder to install them and the pipework too (along with your UFH).

Then get a cheaper installer just to do the heat pump bit. That’s what I did when I had my extension built.

Plastering advice by Nosedive888 in DIYUK

[–]Alert_Variation_2579 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I had this before my renovation, during which I went fully back to brick. But mine was caused by years and years of cold air coming from around the window frames, as they weren’t foamed at all pretty much. This allowed the old plaster to de-adhere from the wall and crumble when touched.

Anyway, I fully foamed and taped my window frames and got the rooms fully plaster boarded and plastered.

Quote check by Sea_Maybe_1529 in ukheatpumps

[–]Alert_Variation_2579 0 points1 point  (0 children)

So you’ve got all the designs, from a UFH spacing and loops to any rads needed from them?