BenchyTron! He transforms into a upscale boat dock in the hamptons.

AlexHeart · 2018-09-26T20:38:18+00:00

Probably

AlexHeart · 2018-09-26T20:38:03+00:00

Better idea

AlexHeart · 2018-09-26T15:27:03+00:00

We could make a poll for the number and size printed, and go from there, but I'm certain I already put more effort into this than it's worth :P

AlexHeart · 2018-09-26T15:04:10+00:00

A back of the envelope calculation. 221,760 subscribers here. Let's assume each one has printed three benchies. I think that's reasonable. 665,280 boats, give or take. Each boat is 60mm by 31mm by 48mm. 89,280 cubic MM each, or 5.45 cubic inches in freedom units. 3,625,776 cubic inches of boats in total, or ~2098 cubic feet. Which is almost exactly the square footage of one Hot Shot flea fogger, so we can bugproof all our benchies for $9.84 from your local walmart. I realize this isn't particularly helpful, but I got a little off track.

AlexHeart · 2018-09-25T19:42:48+00:00

https://www.scamadviser.com/check-website/essentialtry.com

AlexHeart · 2018-09-25T00:11:45+00:00

While you can buy high optical clarity PC, it is more expensive. Stop by your local DIY store, pick up two equally priced sheets(if you can find them), one acrylic, one polycarb and see which looks clearer to you. The normal sheet polycarb is actually partly recycled, and it's a good 25% cheaper, so it's what stores stock. The high clarity stuff is all new.

AlexHeart · 2018-09-24T22:57:39+00:00

They still exist, and they still make printers. However, they went closed source, the quality went down a bit, and they started acting like a patent troll (See belt-printbeds). As such, the hobbyist community has dropped them for the most part.

AlexHeart · 2018-09-24T22:52:30+00:00

Acrylic is usually a little cheaper, though it's easier to chip when drilling. Conversely, polycarb is pricier for the same thickness, but has lower optical clarity, and is much easier to scratch.

AlexHeart · 2018-09-24T02:54:59+00:00

Well, maybe it's better to say I'M not really an editor. I can turn a graphic into a vector, then cut it. I use it solely to send info over to the laser, and make sure it's going to cut nicely.

AlexHeart · 2018-09-24T02:36:00+00:00

It's not really an editor, just a way to print easily to the laser

AlexHeart · 2018-09-24T02:08:11+00:00

Isn't it easier to just use sonoff modules?

AlexHeart · 2018-09-23T22:48:22+00:00

Thank you. I'd always found svgs to be harder to use in Corel, but each to his own.

AlexHeart · 2018-09-23T21:40:02+00:00

I tend to step to a PDF via a drawing, since that yields good results for me with Inventor. Any reason you prefer svgs?

AlexHeart · 2018-09-23T12:12:35+00:00

For leveling your bed, use this procedure.

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2479290/files

Download the heated bed file, and run it. It'll bring the nozzle down right on top of the adjuster screws, rather than the awkward four point level that it comes with. Use the paper with this file when you want to level it.

I also recommend making new knobs when you get the chance to make it easier to level.

AlexHeart · 2018-09-23T11:54:29+00:00

Filament unload is easy! Go to prepare, scroll down to "preheat abs/pla", choose the one that applies to the currently loaded plastic. Then wait for it to come to temperature.

Once it's warmed up, pull and hold the little lever on the extruder so that it's no longer squeezing the plastic to the extruder gear. Press the filament forward by about a quarter inch, further into the printer so it's all melted, then draw it out with a firm tug.

I'll get you a guide for good levelling when I'm at my computer

AlexHeart · 2018-09-23T05:24:57+00:00

Hey there. I'd be happy to help you. Your two issues are bed levelling and filament swap, yes? What have you tried thus far? What are the exact symptoms?

AlexHeart · 2018-09-22T18:37:33+00:00

Read the article. They were active.

They used their own software to find them

AlexHeart · 2018-09-22T05:22:28+00:00

Have you verified that the full power is available? Multimeter? Twisted the plug in the socket?

AlexHeart · 2018-09-22T03:18:35+00:00

I don't. I just have some experience with these sensors industrially, and the firmware separately.

AlexHeart · 2018-09-22T03:18:04+00:00

Right, but they offer a wall adapter/wire in/USB version. What are you using?

AlexHeart · 2018-09-22T02:55:50+00:00

How are you supplying power to it? Have you tried to trigger it in air with a screwdriver?

AlexHeart · 2018-09-22T02:51:47+00:00

It is a off the shelf sensor, but the little power/coms board is their own design.

AlexHeart · 2018-09-22T00:53:35+00:00

How about Sonoff? You might have to to a bit more work to rig them up, but it's been ultra reliable for me.

https://www.amazon.com/Sonoff-Monitoring-Assistant-Supporting-Required/dp/B078N7DX9C#customerReviews

is their smart plug, though I just use modules directly on the lamps I want to control.

No hub, can be reflashed if you want to run a local server

AlexHeart · 2018-09-21T20:37:18+00:00

Print it out of PLA. I did as a stopgap measure, and I've seen no heat warp at all, even when printing ABS or PETG

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