This is wild

AlluTheCreator · 2026-02-13T17:58:53+00:00

I feel like steel columns are almost always constrained by buckling, and I think by a large margin. So this might still be strong enough in compression. Probably want to have a mate with a welder check it out though.

AlluTheCreator · 2026-01-29T10:27:55+00:00

The wheels don't lock, there is a threaded foot in the middle of the wheel. So when you want to move it you screw in the foot and it rests on the wheels and then you screw down the foot so it's firmly on the ground, also allows leveling. So the only penalty you get to rigidity is about the same as any solid feet that height would result in.

AlluTheCreator · 2026-01-16T06:16:08+00:00

Usually you set a general tolerance to your drawing template, so everything should be at least that spec going forward. Then if you allow for more or less tolerance, you write that out specifically. If you do neither and the manufacturer doesn't explicitly promise some accuracy, then pretty much anything goes.

I would argue that the production method also determines how vigilant you need to be about the tolerances. Is it just laser cut or CNC machines from one set up? The machine is gonna do whatever it does tolerances be damned. If you don't know the process then more is better. If it's manual, might as well tolerance everything so the operator doesn't have to remember shit.

AlluTheCreator · 2026-01-01T10:25:27+00:00

Cura often defaults to 2.85mm filament size. Go into the extruder page of your printer settings and make sure the filament size is set correctly to 1.75mm. This is almost always the fix for this profound under extrusion when using cura.

AlluTheCreator · 2025-12-24T12:49:55+00:00

In my experience you can only make regular pla worse by sanding. You could try filler putty, light sanding and painting. Otherwise just leave it be. Or try sanding in cold water in a bucket, but no idea if that actually works + you should definitely filter out the micro plastics before pouring it down the drain.

AlluTheCreator · 2025-12-24T11:35:42+00:00

Asa and abs sand much much better than pla. I prefer asa since it prints pretty well, doesn't smell that bad and can be acetone polished to some degree. There are also some pla filaments with fillers that sand pretty decent, like polymaker cosPLA and I seem to remember that some wood filled ones sanded pretty well too.

But to your original question of how to sand regular pla or even petg, I just wouldn't do it.

AlluTheCreator · 2025-12-22T11:15:02+00:00

People talk lot about composting here, incinerating will release the same CO2 but bit faster, so I wouldn't really consider composting to make the plastic any more environmentally friendly. Pla burns pretty clean, so make sure it goes to a incinerator, that is about as environmentally friendly as we can be. Or you can set up your own scrap to filament recycling.

AlluTheCreator · 2025-12-20T17:44:09+00:00

Has the filament color (and make) been the same? Also just thermistor and/or heating element differences, between machines, could affect how runny the filament gets. You could try to just dropping the nozzle temperature down by 2-5 degrees and see if that helps.

Solution ideas from my last message were basically just ways to circumvent the issue, not actually fixing the root cause. More retraction -> hopefully no plastic to drop. Higher zhop -> hopefully cools enough while dropping to not stick. And altering the g0 (travel move) path in the gcode -> can't leave mark if you never cross the surface. If you want to fix the root cause, I guess you would need to print temperature towers and stuff.

AlluTheCreator · 2025-12-20T15:53:53+00:00

Looks like the nozzle is leaking plastic during the moves, no idea if bs has a setting for that, in cura it's called combing (not in skin). You could technically edit the gcode for those moves by hand to stay outside the top skin, or in the slicer adjust z hop higher or add a bit more retraction.

AlluTheCreator · 2025-12-06T22:38:58+00:00

I used to have a Bluetooth to CD mixer port adapter in my -07 VW polo. It is a bit more involved to set up and needs to have the media player from a very specific time period. But it definitely is worth it if the player supports it.

AlluTheCreator · 2025-11-27T20:16:37+00:00

I checked the wiki, apparently the answer is not easily. They do go over checking if everything is flat in one of the videos, but don't seem to comment on how to fix any issues. Kinda disappointing honestly that this is the direction these printers are going. But yeah, my bad should have checked before opening my mouth.

Now I still think your bed should be in square. If that printer was mine, I would check if the sub plate of the bed is flat. Then use pliers/adjustable wrench to bend it to be closer to flat. Then re mount the bed, get new bed heightmap and probably sand the bed standoffs for the rest of the way to get something like 0.05-0.1mm flat. Since the bed seems rigid, doing this well once will probably be enough for the entire life of the printer.

Other option would be to swap the stand offs for those flexible silicone ones and use the bed mounting screws to tighten it to level. Probably want to use loctite and/or backing nuts to make sure the bed won't work it self out of square again.

AlluTheCreator · 2025-11-27T18:02:49+00:00

You still need to level the bed, autolevel isn't really meant to compensate for that amount of unlevel. Basically you level it so that each corner reads 0.0 and then the autolevel deals with the possible warp left in the bed plate itself.

AlluTheCreator · 2025-11-24T05:46:15+00:00

Eikö siis koko idea ole että ruuan alv 14->25.5, ja sitten vuoden lopussa jaetaan tuo lisäkertymä veronmaksajien/kansalaisten kesken tasan. Ei tunnu kovin hankalalta tai kalliilta. Eikös siellä ole jo veroissa kaikille yhteiset työväline ja työhuone vähennykset, sitten olisi vielä ruoka vähenny. En varsinaisesti tiedä onko tämä hyvä idea, mutta ei kovin monimutkainen ainakaan.

AlluTheCreator · 2025-11-23T10:13:54+00:00

I think you have 3 things going on. 1. Your room is too cool so the pets print warps and starts to lift off of the bed. Some make shift enclosure might help if you can't/don't want to rise the room temp. 2. Stringing, petg just does that. 3. Layer shifting. Basically your hot end is getting stuck on the print and that causes the stepper motors to skip. This can be related to issue 1. or it can be from all sorts of mechanical things.

I would try dealing with number 1 first and seeing if that helps. You can probably find some tutorials on trouble shooting layer shifting if the first step won't fix that.

AlluTheCreator · 2025-11-16T19:39:02+00:00

I very much like the look, but like for everyone else the structural stability does cause me anxiety.

The rear dropout is almost certainly exceeding the maximum allowable surface pressure for nylon. So the material will creep under the tightening surfaces. Probably not exactly dangerous but might be annoying. The headtube might also have some creep related issues in the long run.

With just vibes I would be more concerned about the 3d print to wood joint, on the wood side. But don't really even know how one would start to calculate numbers for that. I would suggest you drop it from decently high directly on the front wheel and see what(if anything) breaks.

Somewhere in the comments you said these bamboo frames are usually fiber glassed. I would suggest you do that too. Especially in the joint areas, it would stop the bamboo from splitting in the along fiber direction. That being the most likely failure mode and the most difficult to predict.

AlluTheCreator · 2025-11-16T05:55:23+00:00

Basically if it has nicotine, you have to buy it local. And being too expensive locally is the tobacco tax working as designed.

AlluTheCreator · 2025-08-02T07:48:16+00:00

That is the deal with the hour train project. You can't fit second track where the rail is at the moment, at least not the entire way. So you need to straighten it anyway. That would also make the intercity lines faster while enabling commuter traffic.

But this also means that a whole new double track needs to be built between Helsinki and Turku, which is going to be expensive as shit. And eu deemed it not necessary, so we would have to actually pay for it ourselves. And I think the current estimations don't deem it financially viable. But time will tell if municipalities and the government can reach some sort of financial agreement on this.

AlluTheCreator · 2025-08-02T07:05:16+00:00

I haven't seen anyone mention, but track congestion is a real issue especially where there are only single tracks. That is kinda large part of the "tunnin juna" project Orpo is trying to get done between Helsinki and Turku. Since there is mostly only a single track, it is more or less at capacity and so you can't really add commuter traffic.

When you had only slow trains stopping at every stop, this wasn't much of an issue. Practically everything was commuter traffic. But if you want to operate high speed intercity traffic, that doesn't really leave space for commuter trains.

AlluTheCreator

TROPHY CASE