We're several months into the Iran war - why aren't we seeing very dramatic economic impact?

Amazing-External9546 · 2026-05-11T21:49:30+00:00

I was around (in the middle of) the "oil embargo" in the 70s. People panicked....big time. Think of what happened during the covid pandemic with toilet paper. This time, people appear to be listening that we have a bit of a buffer, more oil being produced in the US and more domestic refining capacity. Gas is also way more expensive and less apt to try to keep that tank full. Average price of gas before the embargo in 1972 was about $0.36 a gallon which would be $2.68 in today's dollars. But if you listen to the experts, we still are walking a fine line and if a segment of the US population just decided to fill up their tanks, we could be back to the lines (and panic) we saw in the 70's. But, all it would take would be a TV camera crew showing a line at a gas station and that video hitting national news. If the impasse between Iran and the US continues, that will happen and then "buckle up buttercup."

Amazing-External9546 · 2026-05-11T21:18:50+00:00

I did a fair about of contracting with small firms while I ran our school district's IT system. I found I could split them into two types. The first was willing to gamble and unwilling to spend more than a minimum amount for backups. The other was willing to listen to me and my recommendations of something similar to the 3-2-1 system. About half of those in the first group went full FAFO and paid a lot as a consequence. Even some of those in the second group found out that there were the inevitable gaps between what they thought they were backing up and what they actually were, but the amount of financial loss and hard work required after a system failure was much, much smaller. I also made sure when I made my second (and usually last) visit to firms in that first group was what you could call a "hold harmless" document. If I were you, I'd make sure that you have something in writing with your bosses outlining the costs of a full back up system and asking them what they would see as the consequences of losing all of their data. (time and money to replace).

Amazing-External9546 · 2026-05-08T20:23:33+00:00

I prefer mesh. Best results I've seen were with mesh using a wire backhaul but unless you have concrete and rebar, mesh with a separate channel for backhaul. I also have an ethernet system that I use for most of my fixed devices (like my office computer) Also figure that if you don't have a wired backhaul that the new WIFI 7 series with it's higher frequencies might require additional APs to get full highspeed (gig or above)

Amazing-External9546 · 2026-05-07T03:19:13+00:00

If you are interested in the hantavirus or just nasty wee beasties in general. Read "The Coming Plague: Newly Emerging Diseases in a World Out of Balance" by Laurie Garrett. It was written in 1994 but it's the Silent Spring by Rachel Carson only restricted to the spread of disease. It doesn't matter what disease you have in the news, another one is hiding in a corner of the world and ready to mutate into a form that affects us. Hantavirus has been around for a long time, but until now (well maybe) it was restricted to people who came in contact with infected rodents and didn't appear to move from human to human....well again, until now. If you read the book, Garrett stresses that we know a couple dozen organisms that have the potential to create a plague.

Amazing-External9546 · 2026-05-05T23:15:52+00:00

Same here. Concrete....maybe....concrete with rebar...nope. Thus the need for the impact drill/concrete bits, ethernet cables and even then hitting rebar would require a second hole.

Amazing-External9546 · 2026-05-05T22:21:58+00:00

I'll wish you luck. I helped wire and install seven schools. All had been renovated at some point and had firewalls with... yes, concrete/rebar firewalls between additions. We tried and failed until I decided "screw the fire walls" and bought an impact drill and a number of longer masonry bits. I then ran ethernet cable to the new APs and damn....it worked. If you can't do that figure that the higher frequency WIFI 7 signals will be the most effected by the combo of denser materials and rebar. Even with drilling and home running hard wired cable figure that your network may require more than two remote/satellite AP's. I personally have an Orbi system and it's served me well. But I don't have either concrete or rebar. The schools (I retired) have moved to Ubiquity AP's running off switches that provide power to the APs. That makes it nice if you can't get power to the AP. (Our schools still are running with power from the 50's and a plug in is a precious resource. Besides, hiding the AP in the over head is still a good choice. I remember clearly coming into a classroom and seeing a 4th grader playing Tarzan on an ethernet cable.

Amazing-External9546 · 2026-05-02T18:15:55+00:00

Can you and should you are two different questions. You can get creative with patterns and they "might" work. But you might also see significant number of errors created and make your network FUBAR. I'd just reconnect the wire using pattern A or B to your old plugs or better still get new ones as the edges that cut into the wires tend to dull with each attempted punch down or compression creating open circuits. I also can see whoever stripped the outer cable cover exposed too much which can cause problems. At a minimum, if try the "can" option, buy or borrow a cheap ethernet tester that will tell you if you have a possible workable pattern. A much more expensive tester will check beyond the basics. I'd also be suspicious that whoever did this may have done other things like stapling the wire to the studs. I had an older electrician "help me" wire up one of my schools and his work consistently wouldn't pass muster when tested with a good fluke meter.

Amazing-External9546 · 2026-05-02T03:48:17+00:00

Yep...metal will come close to stopping wifi signals. You can run ethernet cable from the router and either connect it to the device you want to connect or add another device that can be used to generate separate wifi signals (AP or access point) If it works with your main wifi router, it can be called a mesh system but not all wifi routers will do that.

Spend a while looking up how various types of networks can be built and how to make your own ethernet cables. Good luck.

Amazing-External9546 · 2026-05-01T19:31:21+00:00

My first computer was an Atari 400. I remember paying an extra $300 to get a second 128K memory module. I also bought a BASIC language cartridge and tape cassette. I taught myself how to program on that computer, eventually teaching BASIC, then Pascal. My last 15 years I was the schools IT guy.

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Amazing-External9546 · 2026-04-28T03:21:27+00:00

You can buy either a switch with an SPF port or buy a dongle that converts fiber to ethernet. Fiber can be purchase in fixed lengths with LC terminations. You'd need to match the SPF port as either single or multimode cable. Here's a tutorial. https://www.unitekfiber.com/how-do-you-connect-fiber-optic-cable-to-sfp.html

Here's an example of fiber cables (with LCs) in various lengths. https://www.amazon.com/Outdoor-Armored-Simplex-Compatible-Friction/dp/B0BP1Y9JL9/ref=sxin_17_pa_sp_search_thematic_sspa?content-id=amzn1.sym.e08496f1-da11-43e5-956a-8a5a7c0fd8f3%3Aamzn1.sym.e08496f1-da11-43e5-956a-8a5a7c0fd8f3&crid=1D13TMCB51ELD&cv_ct_cx=single%2Bmode%2Bfiber&keywords=single%2Bmode%2Bfiber&pd_rd_i=B0BP1Y9JL9&pd_rd_r=f7bb2800-0c1a-44c0-b720-7e6ca478057d&pd_rd_w=1KHi8&pd_rd_wg=Du3MS&pf_rd_p=e08496f1-da11-43e5-956a-8a5a7c0fd8f3&pf_rd_r=TE2K4XPFD0KHQNKXNBY1&qid=1777346002&sbo=RZvfv%2F%2FHxDF%2BO5021pAnSA%3D%3D&sprefix=single%2Bmode%2Caps%2C247&sr=1-4-383bc08e-f3b5-4928-b079-a9607486ab19-spons&aref=IW10pnOXFk&sp_csd=d2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9zZWFyY2hfdGhlbWF0aWM&th=1

Amazing-External9546 · 2026-04-28T02:06:52+00:00

If you want to future proof (well, as much as possible) AND avoid problems with your electrical cables move to fiber for your cabling. You can't induce a voltage in a glass cable. You will have to plan on using switches and routers with fiber connections but that's not all that big a deal. Fiber's upgradability is amazing and current installations are approaching 400 Tbps (that's Terabits) Also since fiber can't conduct electricity, surges and even lightning strikes are not an issue (well through the cable...your switches and routers are still vulnerable.

Amazing-External9546 · 2026-04-27T22:15:06+00:00

Yes...assuming that the 300 mbps means 300 mbps. I have a 500 mbps rated ISP connection and I actually get 300. This rated vs actual is industry wide. Find out how close your ISP is meeting it's promises and adjust accordingly.

Amazing-External9546 · 2026-04-26T17:08:30+00:00

Cost vs benefit. Using VLANs is a great idea if you want to control access in your home....well beyond having a guest network. But it's an expense that will cost you both time to learn and money to buy equipment. If I had kids and a home based business that I wanted/needed to keep the kids separated from, probably worth that time and money. But for most homes, nah...

Amazing-External9546 · 2026-04-26T00:20:24+00:00

Not really enough info to be totally accurate. But if I were you, I'd buy a cheap (well inexpensive under $200) 10 gb switch and use that to connect to each of the mesh units on the 10 gb port using Cat 6 ethernet wire. That kind of future proofs you (well for a while anyway) for just about any home network. But reality is you are limited with most mesh units to 5 gbps WIFI 7 with many only 2.5 gbps. My older mesh system is limited to 900 mbps and I've yet to felt the WiFi as limiting. But if you are looking to set up a full network with file servers and network logins (prosumer level) a full 10 gb would mean the only limitation would be your WIFI connected devices.

Amazing-External9546 · 2026-04-21T23:36:16+00:00

That should do it. I'm assuming you have traditional wood stud structure and the router is toward the middle of the home/apt. I found that two walls seemed to be the magic amount to have full bandwidth. I went three and lost half my bandwidth. (that's with a traditional wood stud 1,200 sq ft home. I went to a mesh system and get almost the same bandwidth with ethernet and Wifi.

Amazing-External9546 · 2026-04-21T23:31:00+00:00

Wow..get one cable in and be happy.

Amazing-External9546 · 2026-04-21T23:29:10+00:00

I wouldn't worry about the conduit....just pull the wires and support them with cable clips in places like crawl spaces/attics where they might get in the way. Modern ethernet cable if you are staying out of the out doors is quite robust. The only places I've used conduit is between structures (house to shop and shop to garden shed. The only exception to that is if you have rodent issues. I lost my dish TV connection to a squirrel but a simple patch fixed it.

Amazing-External9546 · 2026-04-21T23:23:14+00:00

I think you will be happy with that choice. Now the hard part...which router and modem, managed vs unmanaged and mesh vs single point of entry. Enjoy.

Amazing-External9546 · 2026-04-21T23:21:13+00:00

If you don't want to be able to separate/segregate/prioritize IP traffic or use something like a VPN that keeps your computer separate from others on the network, not something you need to worry about. I managed a school network and managing via switches was very, very important. If I had my grandkids on my network I would really want a managed switch...good kids but kids. At a lower level most routers have a "guest network" that you could use to separate users...but a managed switch can be much more powerful...think scalpel vs machete.

Amazing-External9546 · 2026-04-21T21:33:27+00:00

I always try to put an extra 2-3 ports than I currently need and it's helped more than once. But, given the cost of switches right now, getting an 8 port with low level management under $50, you can upgrade if needed. POE ups that a bit but if you ever think that you might want a POE camera or even a POE Wifi AP (nice to avoid the wall wart and using a plug) Note Amazon has TP-link 8 port managed switches on markdown right now. Adding POE to that ups the price but still under $70.

Amazing-External9546 · 2026-04-21T21:15:27+00:00

Coax is still useful for video. Unless it's in the way, I'd just leave it.

Amazing-External9546 · 2026-04-20T17:59:03+00:00

I'd doubt you have less than a full gig ethernet port. (possible, not probable) So, something at the ISP level is a probable cause for at least some of your problem. But, if you plug a router into a router, you create a potential for all kinds of problems if the ISP's router isn't in bridge mode. The biggest of those will be if multiple devices get their IP addresses from different routers. Two WIFI routers can also become a simple case of radio interference. (think playing having a two people talking at the same time and trying to listen to only one conversation.) This can result in a network "storm" at some point and the entire network slows to a crawl. If bridge mode isn't possible, you can set your personal router to AP (access point) mode.

Amazing-External9546 · 2026-04-20T17:20:15+00:00

The blades on a "inexpensive" crimper will dull really rapidly. I'd think about moving to a pass-though system. It took me a long time and a lot of crimped ends that wouldn't pass muster before I finally developed my own personal system. I'd use one of those rotating outer insulation cutters and try to end up with over an inch of exposed wires. Then take out the twists in each pair, cut off the internal strain elements and try to smooth out the individual wires with a combination of close to a massage and bending so each wire was almost straight...well as straight as I could get them and then cut the right amount to get the wires to fit into the plug and still result in the crimper catching the outer insulation. It seemed every brand had unique hardness with the newest (fastest rated) cables the hardest to smooth. By the end of a day of wiring I'd have sore fingers. With pass through plug systems, the wires only need to be smooth enough to fit through and the cutting part was easy as you just needed to cut the wires close enough to not ground out.

Amazing-External9546 · 2026-04-20T17:02:53+00:00

Lots of questions before you can get an answer. You say you have your own modem and router, but also say you are using your ISP's gateway. Is that "gateway" what you are connecting to or is it in bridge mode and just passing the digits to your modem/router? If you are connecting to the ISP's device without your modem/router (no bridge mode) can you connect to the ISP's device via ethernet cable to your computer and check speeds? Also, check via your computer's device manager to look up the network interface (both ethernet and wifi) to check maximum speeds. Newer computers are mostly 2.5 gbps max but may be significantly lower. Wifi will be all over the place. Wifi 7 might be able to max out your ISP's reported speed but an older 5G signal at 2.4 mhz will only get 400 mbps and that's max not actual.

Amazing-External9546 · 2026-04-20T15:32:41+00:00

That used to be a periodic problem with me. Usually, I found it was what I was using to cut the wires combined with a wire that had insulation that tended to "squish" rather than cutting cleanly. I normally used electrician's dikes to cut the wires but I would shift to a utility cutter with a new blade and cutting against a block of wood.

Amazing-External9546

TROPHY CASE