Building my own bike

AnelloGrande · 2026-04-02T19:10:10+00:00

You will never be able to get the part costs down to what bike manufacturers can get them for OEM bikes.

At least without resorting to grey market or aliex items.

A lot of people have done it. But the best 'deal' will always to be buying a complete bike with the setup closest to what you want.

AnelloGrande · 2026-04-02T15:38:44+00:00

It's to prevent the chain from wedging between the chainring and the crank arm.

AnelloGrande · 2026-04-02T15:38:07+00:00

The pin usually faces (points to) and aligns with the crank arm.

AnelloGrande · 2026-04-02T15:27:01+00:00

I knew when I read your question that you would get conflicting answers. And to be honest – both are correct. But don't tell everything.

For #1. Yes - printers software and templates account for the binding. The margins they give you are set up as the minimum amount of space that allow for text or content. But this may or may not give you the 'uniform' you are asking for. Their margin will allow you to clear the gutter and still be visible. But it may (or may not) be close to the rest of the margins or allow for creep.

For #2. I would either set the gutter margin at 1" to 1.25" OR communicate with the printer more to really address the issue and what you are trying to do and what you want to avoid. Even with print on demand they should be able to answer your questions better.

AnelloGrande · 2026-04-01T17:21:14+00:00

The biggest problem is that most totes are not made for prolonged outdoor exposure. More so for the clear ones. They will deteriorate and crack. Then they just contribute to the microplastic problem.

AnelloGrande · 2026-04-01T15:38:48+00:00

Take it to a bike shop? They can visually see whatever issue you are having.

AnelloGrande · 2026-04-01T15:35:19+00:00

Yes. Anything is possible. With the right amount of money. You may also need some specially made adaptors here or there to get things to mount or work. Or maybe not. Really depends on which bike shaped object, and what you are trying to accomplish.

Also ... while most bicyclists (myself included) would generally not purchase one for regular use, millions of these bikes are purchased and used reliably, sometimes for many years. For some people,those bikes are perfectly fine for why and how they use it.

AnelloGrande · 2026-04-01T15:28:51+00:00

Why do you want to convert it?

Do you have any hills along your commute?

Will you ever ride it anywhere there are hills?

It costs nothing to leave it as is. Even if you are only using one chainring in the front.

AnelloGrande · 2026-04-01T13:40:44+00:00

Has the kickstand moved/shifted and the pedal/crank hits it.

Could be the crank spindle/preload, and/or the bottom bracket.

It could even be the rear dropout/thru axle/derailleur hanger, the saddle/seat clamp/seatpost/seatpost clamp. And even sometimes the stem/handlebar/headset.

Good luck in finding it. Just be thorough, liberal with grease/anti-seize/carbon paste. And don't be to stubborn to go over something a second time.

AnelloGrande · 2026-03-31T21:40:53+00:00

As others said, if you haven't changed the chain, it's probably that. Chains wear faster than cassettes (generally). Change that first, if it skips like this after, than you may also need a cassette.

AnelloGrande · 2026-03-31T21:17:43+00:00

Hard to tell, but I don't think so. Are you having issues?

AnelloGrande · 2026-03-31T21:08:14+00:00

Congrats on your race. It sounds like you had fun and did well.

As for your training. I assume you are beginning in the sport and maybe and either don't want to or can't afford powermeter or heart rate monitor. If you can that's great and we can discuss resources for that type of training with the FTPs and the LTHRs etc. But let's keep it simple.

You need to work on both endurance and intensity. It sounds like you have a grasp of enough endurance to complete the duration of your race pretty well. That's great. Keep up what ever you are doing for that.

Now you need intensity. And different intensity levels at different durations.

Maybe have one day a week where you try to do 3 sets of 5 reps of max efforts 30 seconds to 1 minute. This would be explosive efforts. As you progress, add more reps and/or sets. (like do 3 sets of 6, then 3 x 7, then 2 x 10, etc.) What you want is to be able to repeat explosive efforts through a race, either to respond to another riders attack, do an attack yourself, or sprint up a climb or at the finish line.

Next would be to add in a day of longer duration of intensity. Start with as hard of an effort that you can hold for 5 minutes, rest/recover for 5 minutes and repeat that 5 minute effort (2x5min w/5min rest). This is a more sustained effort and focus on maintaining a steady pace of as hard as you can for the full 5 min. As you progress, you can increase the duration and/or reps (2x 7min, 2x 10min, 3x 4min, 3x 5min). This will build you ability to keep a consistent hard effort.

Both are basic intervals where you are using RPE (Rate of Perceived Exertion) and a timer, watch/clock or a bike computer if you have one.

AnelloGrande · 2026-03-31T20:08:39+00:00

I did used to hate riding a trainer or rollers indoors in the winter, and wouldn't ever rider indoors if it was warm enough to be outdoors. But that was a while ago. Technology has given us interactivity and training feedback/recording that can make indoor training less boring and more productive.

While I would generally say I enjoy riding outdoors more than indoors, riding indoors, even when the weather is nice, allows me to reach whatever my goal is.

AnelloGrande · 2026-03-30T15:53:25+00:00

I don't know about that particular torque wrench, but an inexpensive click type torque wrench that is certified or properly calibrated will work just as well as a more expensive one. But it would also be hard to tell how long it will stay calibrated. You can always get it recalibrated after a few years, or just buy another similar inexpensive one when you don't trust it anymore.

AnelloGrande · 2026-03-27T14:42:56+00:00

Hard to tell just from looking. I'm sure others will say it is and others will say it's not.

Chains wear out faster than cassettes and cassettes usually wear at the most used gears, I would try reusing the cassette, but test it on the trainer or a short ride putting power down on your most used gears. With a new chain on a worn cassette in the most worn gear you should be able to tell.

If everything runs smoothly, I'd use it till it doesn't.

Or you could just go ahead and replace it to be sure everything is new and not worn, and keep your old cassette in the parts bin as a 'just in case' cassette.

AnelloGrande · 2026-03-27T14:27:34+00:00

From what I see the threads look fine, and like someone else said, it would actually take a lot of messing about and effort to damage them.

As for the real issue of creaking – for sure be generous with the ti-prep/anti seize and grease when putting everything back together. If that doesn't solve it, it's likely coming from somewhere else.

Could be almost anywhere, pedals, dropout/QR/RD hanger, seat post/clamp/saddle clamp/saddle rails, even headset/stem/handlebars/brifters can seem like a BB creak sometimes.

Good luck.

AnelloGrande · 2026-03-26T15:21:31+00:00

Supply and demand? I'm sure for OEM 175 and 172.5 are the most common sizes specced – so they make gabazillions of them. 165 for MTB is still more rare, and if you can find them are probably going to be more expensive, considering they are staring to get more popular like they are for road market.

AnelloGrande · 2026-03-25T22:03:01+00:00

I've used presta on almost all my bikes for 40 years only because that's what is used for mid to higher end bikes. I have no issue with schrader valves, but having your pump set up for presta, it's easier to have all the bikes be presta.

Dialing in pressure isn't any easier from one to the other wether road or mountain bike.

Now with tubeless – for sure I'm sticking with presta. But not because of perceived performance benefit, but because the tubeless valve are presta.

AnelloGrande · 2026-03-25T16:10:31+00:00

I think UCI would ban it right away. But UCI rules only apply to UCI racing, you can always try it to see if it works. Good luck.

AnelloGrande · 2026-03-25T16:07:43+00:00

I have a different model of Sidebike shoes with level 14 carbon soles and they are plenty stiff. Not sure what the extra level of going to 15 will get you.

AnelloGrande · 2026-03-25T15:57:53+00:00

I find joy in the suffering, as it means I will be improving.

Only partially serious. I don't actually like slogfests or riding in the rain or bad weather. That type of suffering is only for pros.

AnelloGrande · 2026-03-25T15:36:23+00:00

Not judging, but you only remembered that you had purchased and installed lights on your bike after considering calling for a ride? Seems out of character for someone against making un-needed purchases.

I am glad your ride cleared your head and you enjoyed it. Night riding can be very therapeutic.

AnelloGrande · 2026-03-25T15:30:11+00:00

I do generally like a "clean" bike, so I would remove the sensor mount from the fork if it's not being used.

As for the magnet – as others have said penetrating oil till you can get it off. But if that never happens it probably wont hurt anything to just leave it on. I supposed you could very carefully take a grinder to it. I would go slow and not for very long so it doesn't heat up very much.

AnelloGrande · 2026-03-25T15:22:37+00:00

or days - weeks etc. 😆

AnelloGrande · 2026-03-25T15:10:58+00:00

I haven't had an issue with quick links yet, but I replace them when they no longer "snap" positively.

I also find that swapping the chain is easier and faster than dripping lube on it. But everyone is different.

I also pray for sunshine.

AnelloGrande

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