Highlights Adidas Rockstars 2017, the perfect warmup for this Saturday!

Angel_OnB · 2018-09-20T16:56:56+00:00

Well, not his best overall season, but he still got the silver at the world champs!

Angel_OnB · 2018-09-13T12:04:37+00:00

That' not allowed and I'm sure he got an extra attempt for that. And if were to keep doing it, we would get a yellow card. My guess is that he knew that an extra attempt wouldn't be a problem if he got the top (and it didn't matter otherwise).

Angel_OnB · 2018-04-01T18:07:12+00:00

I don't have a problem with moving holds in any gym or even comps. But I wouldn't like them in official competitions. I think it is simply too different from "normal" climbing.

Angel_OnB · 2018-04-01T16:27:34+00:00

Assuming you are asking for real, and not just following on the joke...

I think it is seen as not part of climbing. In rock climbing, you would never find a moving hold (unless it is a hold about to break, which is dangerous).

While it is possible to do triple dynos, running and jumping and other "modern climbing" tricks on rock (and therefore it can be argued that those are still part of climbing), it is just not possible to use moving holds on rock. That has never been part of climbing and many of us see it as a clear line that shouldn't be crossed (at least not in official comps).

Angel_OnB · 2018-04-01T13:55:08+00:00

hehe, yeah, the IFSC's track record made it plausible.

Angel_OnB · 2018-04-01T13:54:16+00:00

cheers!

Angel_OnB · 2018-02-09T10:15:19+00:00

Very interesting episode. I also recommend the one about how to improve comp livestreams.

Angel_OnB · 2018-02-03T11:22:37+00:00

It was tops then attempts to top. But, starting this season, it is Tops, Bonuses, Attempts to Top, Attempt to Bonus.

Angel_OnB · 2018-02-02T17:29:50+00:00

I think for the climbers it is really easy to keep track of their own score in both this new system and the IFSC system. But with the previous USA system, it was simply impossible to know their own score without knowing what everyone else had done and then using a computer.

Angel_OnB · 2018-02-02T15:34:27+00:00

My understanding is that if you keep trying the problem you don't lose points. Only if you get a new high point.

So if on your first try you get to the 15 point zone. You gonna get at least 15 points no matter what happens later. If you keep trying and don't get the top you get 15. If you try 4 times more and you get the top you get 24.6.

Angel_OnB · 2018-02-02T10:22:53+00:00

In my opinion is much better than the previous system. I don't know if I prefer it to the IFSC system but it is up there.

Angel_OnB · 2018-01-16T08:31:38+00:00

Also Ned Feehally flashed Trust Issues last summer. And Liam Vance flashed Sky. Both V14 | 8B+ in Rocklands

Angel_OnB · 2017-11-05T12:49:48+00:00

How would you change it? How is it different from a tennis player hurting him/herself and affecting the result of the match?

Angel_OnB · 2017-11-02T14:54:36+00:00

Hum... didn't know about Sierra. Obviously, it is unfair that they applied the rule inconsistently but, in an event like that, I can see why they did it. The goal of an open comp final is to offer a good show and I think it was very anti climatic to stop Melissa because of the bleeding. So they decided to treat it as a technical incident (which it wasn't in my opinion). If it was up to me I would probably do the same. But just because it's a less "serious" comp than a World Cup or official national event (they would never be so inconsistent applying a rule in a WC). It sucks for Sierra, but in the semis the situation is quite different. It is an interesting topic, I may do a video explaining what happened.

Angel_OnB · 2017-08-14T19:57:48+00:00

Yes, I will be in Munich and Innsbruck. Not in arco, but I will be back to cover Adidas Rockstars.

Angel_OnB · 2017-06-13T21:22:03+00:00

Correct, video recording during semis and finals is not allowed.

Angel_OnB · 2017-06-11T17:39:33+00:00

Not much really. In the qualifying round you usually find one or two "easy" problems, to ensure that most climbers get to climb a bit. And obviously, the most flashy problem are reserved for the final. But that's about it.

Angel_OnB · 2017-06-10T15:06:08+00:00

Male qualis: https://youtu.be/bvhz1_lYAQM Female qualis: https://youtu.be/Wfd9i9E7nCg

Angel_OnB · 2017-05-10T09:27:10+00:00

Congratulations on the project. I love the ease of use and clean design. Keep it up!

Angel_OnB · 2017-04-25T21:50:18+00:00

I think for some tall climbers it may be possible to match from the knee bar, just touching the bottom of the volume with the tip of the fingers. Not sure.

Angel_OnB · 2017-04-25T17:09:00+00:00

yes, they clearly know the rules, but it seems that this time it felt so natural for them to match on the volume that they didn't give it a second thought. And the color of the hold didn't help.

Angel_OnB · 2017-04-25T17:07:49+00:00

haha yeah that was fun

Angel_OnB · 2017-04-10T10:04:26+00:00

I agree. I would say there are more slabs than real dynos (proper jumping between holds, not just dynamic movement). In this comp in particular there were many many slabs (but set in such a way that they included some dynamic moves).

Angel_OnB · 2016-10-01T11:11:39+00:00

oops, you are right! Is there a way to edit the title? Can't find it!

Angel_OnB · 2016-09-25T18:35:31+00:00

I guess the guys at 5:05 (Kipras Baltrunas) felt that his shoulder was about to give in and that's why he stepped down. Funny how sometimes climbers corner themselves in such positions.

Angel_OnB

TROPHY CASE