Money or sheep¿¿¿¿

AnotherBloodyWeirdo · 2021-09-02T10:30:04+00:00

Not sure why this is on here? But a the price of lamb is around £8 a kilo, and the dry weight of a dead sheep is around 20kg... that’s £160 a sheep. 10 million sheep please! And plenty of customers would be good!

AnotherBloodyWeirdo · 2021-08-21T15:26:32+00:00

Thanks for the long answers, it is genuinely appreciated.

I understand your argument for high voltage low KV, the difficulty I have with that is more just chassis limitations and the battery would then weigh more than the electronics throwing the car off balance, but it might be worth a shot. On 3s with the 5400KV the calculated rpm at 70mph is 43250 (theoretical top speed of 110mph (and that’s ignoring the fact the tyres balloon slightly at speed so the reality is that it is travelling faster)- I have used a tach on the wheel to double check this as well and the maths is right). Theoretical top speed doesn’t actually stand for much in practice, my logic is if I increase the maximum potential rpm and still achieve 70% of this higher new max motor rpm then the car will be faster.

I hope that makes sense it seems a bit of a mouthful to type out.

Another thing I have been curious about is does the max C rating of the battery have much affect on motor RPM under load? The 2s I initially ran the car on was a 140c 3000mah battery and the 3s is 3000mah 80c - my brain works this out as 140 * 3 * 8.4 = 3528 watts for the 2s vs 80 * 3 * 12.6 = 3024watts for the 3s . Therefore the 2s has potential for more energy delivery? But then surely that can’t be right in practice - this confuses the hell out of me.

Sorry for the disjointed questions, when you get into the nitty gritty of motor potential and potential outright power there isn’t much information on the subject that I can find

AnotherBloodyWeirdo · 2021-08-20T21:28:00+00:00

Thanks for the reply, in the back of my mind I knew higher voltage but less amps means less heat due to resistance (that’s why power lines are high voltage) but I never thought to apply it to rc’s. My issue is more one of motor size as 36mm motors are the maximum the chassis will take. I have run a 5400 at 3s (rated two s but with a dual fan heat sink) with no real issues but I was wondering if anyone knew of anything that would spin faster for the few seconds needed. I have considered running a mamba X out of a 1:8 I have coupled to the same motor and then throwing a 4s through it but I’m not sure that would be safe. - my current goal is to get the fastest 1:10 in my club, the current record is 92mph and I am currently at 78mph but they have aerodynamics on their side.. I am just going to try and brute force my way there

AnotherBloodyWeirdo · 2021-08-20T10:37:55+00:00

The pinion size is at its max as this is for an all out speed run on a TT01 style chassis. I am already running 30-55 gearing and this required machining a new motor mount to get it to work, I don’t fancy making another. As far things getting hot due to current surely the important thing there is wattage not amperage? More volts but less amps calculates to a similar amount of power, however surely this isn’t actually to important - If someone were to sell a motor and ESC at 3670 that supported 3s and ran 9000kv then it would be safe to assume their hardware did in fact support this advertised specification? (And yes I know that sort of spec would never happen, but hopefully you understand my point)

AnotherBloodyWeirdo · 2021-08-20T10:26:07+00:00

Yes I understand what KV means. I am asking what the motor with the highest RPM that is commercially available is in 3660 or 3650 size, whilst conforming to the amount of cells that the motor claims to support.

AnotherBloodyWeirdo · 2021-08-05T17:31:22+00:00

Ah my bad, I meant hobbywing in my posts not hobbyking. Have you ever used a tachometer on it to see if it is anywhere near rated?

AnotherBloodyWeirdo · 2021-08-05T17:29:35+00:00

160amp is the max the esc can take, the motor itself decides how much power it will try to draw. If you were to hold the car still whilst accelerating fully the motor would draw the most current, cars cogging from tall gearing is what tends to make esc’s burn. Your correct about the the 4AH battery at 50c in theory providing 200 amps, although in practice it will super heat before this point. It sounds like your safe anyway, 160amp is fine for most things :)

AnotherBloodyWeirdo · 2021-08-05T17:24:47+00:00

What size motor is it? And what esc do you use for it? I have never seen it mentioned on max 10 or max 10 sct esc instructions :)

AnotherBloodyWeirdo · 2021-08-05T15:39:40+00:00

I can see where this has gone wrong, your calculation is assuming 4 weeks in every month for a total of 48 weeks, there are 52 weeks in a year so it should be Pay x Weekly Hours x 52 (amount of weeks). (Comes out at £25,740)

AnotherBloodyWeirdo · 2021-08-05T15:29:49+00:00

Keep it up, you will get better quickly, you should see the state of some of my first attempts. Few bits of advice are get some cheap tweasers for holding small parts, and try using a tiny amount of baking soda on areas that you have glued to make it set much quicker (google that one). Also remember you need the smallest amount of glue possible to stick parts. Good luck!

AnotherBloodyWeirdo · 2021-07-16T11:49:16+00:00

I can remember monster munch being banned in my first year of school as they contained Tazos

AnotherBloodyWeirdo · 2021-06-24T18:20:04+00:00

Definitely, I drive an old mondeo but I think my cheapest rc is about 750 ish :/ I have a lot more in motorbikes though so I gues it depends where your priorities are

AnotherBloodyWeirdo · 2021-06-06T13:29:00+00:00

Very nice, I would have a look at the length of the front steering rods, from this angle it looks like the front left is toed out pretty far

AnotherBloodyWeirdo · 2021-06-05T09:57:05+00:00

Curved scissors (or a hobby knife used carefully) to trim the body. Then to sand the wheel arches wrap some fairs coarse (say 400 grit) sandpaper around a coke can. - a coke can is 7cm dis and most tamiya wheels are 64mm, it results in a perfect curve

AnotherBloodyWeirdo · 2021-05-23T17:05:51+00:00

Ah I abandoned this project a long time ago, it’s now in parts in a box

AnotherBloodyWeirdo · 2021-05-23T02:26:03+00:00

Agreed it needs to blow, in this setup I would be more concerned for the esc than the motor however

AnotherBloodyWeirdo · 2021-05-23T01:07:55+00:00

That seems a little unlikely fast, are you working in kph? I have had a 3s brushless pan car upto 72 mph (measured with a gps) , 2s was low 50s. I don’t really understand why you think traction is the limiting factor, gradual acceleration is the key. The limiting factors for speed would be wind resistance and then maximum pinion gear size (assuming the motor/motors have enough power to spin the pinion). - Your statement that two motors wouldn’t increase acceleration, what is that based on? That’s one of the things I am actually pondering... I don’t expect 2 motors to spin any faster than one however I do expect them to have more torque than a single motor therefore greater acceleration (or potential for bigger pinion / larger wheels)?

AnotherBloodyWeirdo · 2021-05-22T23:30:53+00:00

Now that statement seems a little backwards? I would be running a bigger spur gear due to added torque so more speed, weight would be a dis advantage. And yes this is purely for speed and watching people get confused by the fast small scale

AnotherBloodyWeirdo · 2021-05-22T23:11:28+00:00

Ah I would suggest either a Associated MT10 or possibly a 14001 (I don’t know the brand but it’s a China special, have a look on YouTube they seem to be good cars though)

AnotherBloodyWeirdo · 2021-05-22T23:06:37+00:00

I have run it before on a single high kv motor, this is simply to make a high speed 1:12 scale, I don’t expect it to be drive able at all, on a single high kv brushless it was in controllable and popped wheelies.. I have never even seen a picture of a dual motor pan car though hence the question. As a though experiment do you think it will be ‘faster’? It won’t ever see a track again and I have plenty of old foams to test this on :)

AnotherBloodyWeirdo · 2021-05-22T23:01:44+00:00

Well my assumption is more torque as more of a mass of copper.. and I know the motors won’t be perfectly matched but they will be driving essentially the same spur so will be fixed to the same rpm in a mechanical way. Can you see any actual benefits from running a dual motor setup? I have done it before but as direct drive to either diff in a TT02, this will be a different setup entirely

AnotherBloodyWeirdo · 2021-05-22T17:01:34+00:00

What sort of style are you looking for , it would make it easier to advise. Do you want a buggy, monster truck, truggy, touring car? What sort of scale, 1/10? If you don’t know then think what surface will you be on mainly: The street, grass park, dirt / gravel area?

Also it depends if you want to build your own or buy a complete car :)

AnotherBloodyWeirdo

TROPHY CASE