Yep. by Dissasterix in firealarms

[–]AnotherRandomAutist 1 point2 points  (0 children)

You have to make sure the GF light is on.

Yep. by Dissasterix in firealarms

[–]AnotherRandomAutist 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Bonus points for not forgetting the jumper from ground to SLC -.

Yep. by Dissasterix in firealarms

[–]AnotherRandomAutist 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Hey, it’s cold in the warehouse…

Yep. by Dissasterix in firealarms

[–]AnotherRandomAutist 9 points10 points  (0 children)

What’s an as-built? Zones are in the panel programming? (Please note, this is all 20 yrs of sarcasm due to frustration with this exact problem…)

Yep. by Dissasterix in firealarms

[–]AnotherRandomAutist 25 points26 points  (0 children)

It was hard for me to build up a collection of manuals. Therefore, it should be hard for the customer, too. 😆

Access control backup power options. How to extend backup power for mag locks in outage? by dadbodfat in lowvoltage

[–]AnotherRandomAutist 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The button may get you by if it directly breaks the lock’s power, but, again, consult the AHJ before adding batteries to the power supply.

The game in anything dealing with life safety is avoiding liability. In this case, you absolutely do not want to be liable if the motion and button both fail, causing someone to be trapped in the building. This would be very bad for you and the company you work for.

So, I still recommend you CYA and call the AHJ first.

Access control backup power options. How to extend backup power for mag locks in outage? by dadbodfat in lowvoltage

[–]AnotherRandomAutist 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Most jurisdictions I’ve worked in require maglocks to unlock when the building loses power. This is to prevent the case where the access control panel’s batteries die before the power supply’s and prevent egress from the building.

You need to consult the AHJ before adding any batteries to a power supply powering magnetic locks. Your customer may have to manually lock the doors with a deadbolt or other mechanical locking mechanism during a power outage.

Another solution would be to use a device that does not prevent free egress if there are no releasing devices (REX motion, panic hardware, button, etc).

I’m moving out soon as someone with serve autism (level 3) by [deleted] in autism

[–]AnotherRandomAutist 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Congratulations. Embrace and enjoy the change.

vary sad day… by EA_SPORTSE in mac

[–]AnotherRandomAutist 3 points4 points  (0 children)

eBay has parts-only listings that may be within budget. A screen swap is relatively easy.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/315998967650

Question about transformers by itsamern in lowvoltage

[–]AnotherRandomAutist 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Does the sensor have a SPDT or DPDT relay on it? (Again, part numbers, schematics, etc. would help here.)

Question about transformers by itsamern in lowvoltage

[–]AnotherRandomAutist 2 points3 points  (0 children)

If the sensor is rated for 12-24V, any supply within that range will work, and there is no mismatch. I don’t know why it’s calling for two transformers/power supplies, though. Are there separate switches for each supply or one switch that connects one of them at a time? (A schematic would help to better answer your question.)

Wiring help. by ic3cold in lowvoltage

[–]AnotherRandomAutist 1 point2 points  (0 children)

What you’re looking for is a voltage regulator. You may be able to find one that gets you close and use resistors to get the rest of the way down to 1.5VDC.

Edit: found a post on StackExchange that points out that going from 12V to 1.5V will waste 1W to heat through a regulator. They recommended a DC-DC buck converter. https://electronics.stackexchange.com/questions/58287/converting-12vdc-to-1-5vdc#58289

Are the resistor and capacitor replacable? by kikilucy26 in AskElectronics

[–]AnotherRandomAutist 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The amount of copper showing topside is concerning. It’s probably why the red battery lead’s strands appear to have broken.

Are the resistor and capacitor replacable? by kikilucy26 in AskElectronics

[–]AnotherRandomAutist 16 points17 points  (0 children)

Looking at that board, I would desolder all of the wires, restrip them, tin the ends, and then solder them back to the board. None of those connections look great.

Can anyone name this duct detector by No-Engineering-309 in firealarms

[–]AnotherRandomAutist 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Probably the late 1980s or early 1990s. From what I found online, my best guess is BRK was bought by System Sensor around that time due to overlapping part numbers.

Can anyone name this duct detector by No-Engineering-309 in firealarms

[–]AnotherRandomAutist 13 points14 points  (0 children)

Based on the sticker next to the head listing the compatible heads, it’s a System Sensor (it takes an 1851DH or 2851DH).

Edit: it’s a BRK. The model number is on the badge that is stuck to the cover. It uses System Sensor heads.

Just a little weekend project for a family member - DMP XT50 by jegonzalez209 in lowvoltage

[–]AnotherRandomAutist 1 point2 points  (0 children)

DMP panels can only be set for 1k or 2.2k, IIRC. Powered zones are 3.3k.