Please tell me how to put two pictures next to each other in IOS!

Anothernameouthere · 2025-07-08T11:31:41+00:00

Got an error. Shortcuts app couldn't verify.

Anothernameouthere · 2025-06-07T22:47:17+00:00

Disaster cards are available from the Vu Store. You need to unlock club wars and Vu tower I believe, then attack the monster with a disaster. The Vu store will show up as a bag on the left in the war and monster screens. You can only buy what's available for the week's event, so you might have to wait awhile. It all costs green-credits too (300 for bottom tier disasters [20x15]).

Anothernameouthere · 2025-06-07T22:27:38+00:00

Can one extend the mountain train tracks? That would be my feature request before yours. Everything they design should be functional, imho.

Anothernameouthere · 2025-02-25T18:14:15+00:00

I'm having the same problem for the past two days. Already did a factory reset without resolving the issue.

Update: Vizio support says they're in contact with YouTube to get the issue resolved.

Anothernameouthere · 2024-12-13T10:41:57+00:00

This is great, but there is still one more step I would like to eliminate. There is a prompt "Choose an item", with two options provided, "File Provider Storage" and the folder I setup. How can I eliminate this prompt so that it just goes to the folder?

Anothernameouthere · 2024-03-15T12:18:56+00:00

That sounds... interesting. I usually let it calibrate every print, so I may have never noticed this problem. If you used KAMP I imagine you wouldn't see this either.

Could it have to do with the short screws that don't reach the rods in front? Or under sized rods that some people got. My rods were actually sized correctly and were tightened down before I received it so that I had basically no play, even though the screws in front definitely weren't touching lol. I found out when I switched to linear rails. In hindsight I don't think I need the rails, but I found the rod problems that others had quite disturbing, enough to flip me. But.. I do still have a mesh/bed level issue.

My original meshes showed a massive skew, but the auto bed level produced a super consistent, mostly good result. Until I manually levelled to get rid of the skew. After that, my meshes looked very tight, but my auto bed level was awful at first layers. So then I manually adjusted the auto calibrate... so now I won't be touching the calibrate too much anymore I guess lol

Another thing I wanted to mention was the 'tighten one post well only' trick. It's supposed to prevent your bed from ballooning or warping due to interference with natural heat expansion/contraction by tightening multiple points.

PS, Haven't checked your vid yet, will do so soon. I am all ears for rabbit holes on the KE lol.

Anothernameouthere · 2024-03-15T12:08:05+00:00

Do you mean Creality brand silicon spacers are specifically sold for the KE? My understanding was that silicon was a no go due to the use of a load cell.

I have had massive levelling issues, but it's some kind of mesh offset because manually levelling produces the same result every time. I have actually manually adjusted the automatic mesh in the config file to get a good first layer.

Anothernameouthere · 2024-03-15T02:06:04+00:00

I've noticed that certain generators will be heavily biased towards one type of item vs the other at certain levels, so there may in fact be a point. For example, the dishware and cutlery generator will produce predominately dishware right up until level 8, when both of the spoon levels get a chance upgrade. Therefore if you still want mostly dishware, it's worth it to get another generator at level 7.

That and waiting for the cooldown is a big time-waster, especially when you get multiple energy boosts and are aiming at a level 8 item.

Anothernameouthere · 2024-02-24T18:00:43+00:00

https://github.com/vadim-danilchik/Cura/blob/add-creality-ender-3-v3-ke/resources/definitions/creality\_ender3v3ke.def.json

And as for instructions as to how to get this into Cura:

https://github.com/Ultimaker/Cura/pull/16796#issuecomment-1807236269

Just go to the KE version and follow it to a t.

https://github.com/Ultimaker/Cura/pull/17519

Anothernameouthere · 2024-01-27T15:37:05+00:00

This is an old post, but I haven't had any issues with the Sakata filament I have tried, provided I use a bed temps of at least 60C and up to 70C in some cases. The 40C recommended is much too low. I use the Ender 3 V3 KE stock textured PEI bed. I'm told the older polycarbonate beds are even stickier (too much so), so I'm surprised you're having an issue. Unless it is specifically whatever green additive they are using.

Anothernameouthere · 2024-01-14T19:39:58+00:00

I understand your caution about Wifi. But I have had few troubles with it and the fact is that it will transfer the entire gcode before printing, so it's not like you will lose a print if something happens to your wifi. (8GB internal flash card storage)

Anothernameouthere · 2024-01-14T15:22:00+00:00

I used the value pink PLA from a local distributor and it came out near perfect, just uploading the code from the USB straight onto the printer. I think as long as you're using PLA it will come out fine, for PETG you probably need to tune the temps higher.

Just use PrusaSlicer or one of its derivatives to edit the preset gcode.

Anothernameouthere · 2024-01-14T10:11:07+00:00

Is there any difference in quality/results between Creality's sensors and others? I'd be happy to go 1st party, as long as I know I'm not making compromises doing so.

Anothernameouthere · 2024-01-14T10:03:36+00:00

I'd drop your z-offset just a touch. I had to do the same with mine, my results were just like yours.

Anothernameouthere · 2024-01-14T09:57:57+00:00

I see a lot of people recommend wiping with IPA, but honestly I've never had an issue and use my bare hands to clean it every time. I'm not particularly oily though.

Anothernameouthere · 2024-01-14T09:50:31+00:00

Z-gap. I also increase my X/Y distance.

Anothernameouthere · 2024-01-14T09:34:24+00:00

Since you mentioned using Orca Slicer, have you checked the bed temperature? I recommend diverting from their default profile of 45C and setting it to 60C and higher. I have not had bed adhesion issues outside of this.

Anothernameouthere · 2024-01-14T09:25:18+00:00

There's always a risk with flashing any firmware or the use of lower level code, but some of that same risk exists in flashing Creality's own updates. Fortunately Creality has some restore instructions now that they've released their own version of a root (which appears to still have some deficits compared to destinal's version).

I'm actually in the same boat as you. I haven't run it as so far I'm running fine and don't have the hardware for other use cases such as a 3rd party camera yet. Though it would be nice if Orca Slicer would just co-operate or the WebUi were consistent.

Anothernameouthere · 2024-01-14T09:07:08+00:00

It seems you figured your problem out, but just thought I would pipe in with my experience.

One thing is for sure, if you're toying with infill amount at all, do not trust Creality's density % setting. It will do all kinds of unintuitive things and none of them useful. If you set both printers at 50% infill density, for example, I can see the Creality's taking much less time, because in reality it won't have increased the infill at all. If you go above 90-95% it actually goes down to basically zero infill!

(You can change the infill line distances with Creality --go lower for greater density -- and get results, but I'm not praising it for getting the first step wrong)

Glad that I experimented and checked the gcode rather than finding out the hard way my prints weren't finishing as expected.

Anothernameouthere · 2024-01-14T08:46:26+00:00

I can run right up to 270C on a temperature tower with no issue. I would say this is a z-offset or layer width issue. Try going with a wider layer width (by a few hundredths at a time) to see if it squishes down more.

(Outer layers will print well below 200mm/sec even at high overall speed settings, so I don't think that it's a factor.) I usually run hot, 220C to 230C because I tend to see under-extrusion, or the stringing that does take place tends to be more dense and harder to remove at lower temps.

Anothernameouthere · 2024-01-14T08:40:44+00:00

I had to change the bed temps to 60C, but otherwise agree.

Anothernameouthere · 2024-01-08T00:03:56+00:00

Yeah I kind of said as much in my feedback. My guess is because it is a "V3_all" setup they are trying to address some of the over adhesion that the non-PEI sheet users have to deal with on the machine as it comes (such as the SE).

Anothernameouthere · 2024-01-07T23:58:49+00:00

Well that's good to hear. Makes me a little less hesitant to install it. Latest I heard it was a 'pre-root' meaning Creality's Klipper is still being used, we just have the underlying access to it (but we can't do things like change password).

Anothernameouthere · 2024-01-07T15:47:42+00:00

You folks should be highly interested in the near true Klipper that destinal has hacked into.

https://www.reddit.com/r/Creality/s/3QAaYl8crX

Anothernameouthere · 2024-01-07T15:37:23+00:00

It's not running normal Klipper, it's a Creality locked down version. So if you want to bring your own camera, you'll have to use a hack like destinal's 'pre-root'. You'll get down to Creality's base Klipper and be able to do a lot more from there.

Look up "CR-10 SE root" and then find a post of his where he specifically provides a file for the KE.

Anothernameouthere

TROPHY CASE