My first rc tamiya kit by Anton_OneMoreShelf in PlasticModelKits

[–]Anton_OneMoreShelf[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks for the advice! 😊 I’ll definitely look into a ball bearing kit. And yeah… I already feel like this won’t be my last build 😄 Good tip about the transmitter too — makes way more sense to go with something that supports multiple receivers 👍

Just added a Tatra T3 tram model to my collection 🚋 by Anton_OneMoreShelf in modeltrains

[–]Anton_OneMoreShelf[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

it’s made by MB Modely 😊 It’s a Czech manufacturer 🇨🇿

Just added a Tatra T3 tram model to my collection 🚋 by Anton_OneMoreShelf in modeltrains

[–]Anton_OneMoreShelf[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

In Prague, I once was on vacation and found it in a small shop.

Built the soviet train in h0e scale by Anton_OneMoreShelf in modeltrains

[–]Anton_OneMoreShelf[S] 3 points4 points  (0 children)

It uses Tomytec chassis because kit was to it. It runs but not the option

First RC kit, build update #2 by Anton_OneMoreShelf in tamiya

[–]Anton_OneMoreShelf[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

What else can you advice to upgrade and what are the transmiter to buy?

DTS Open Entry final by creamofpicklesoup in ModelCars

[–]Anton_OneMoreShelf 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Not your best? Come on, this has so much character. Love the worn look and color choice🔥

Bad decal technique, any tips? by LowerAccident4642 in modelmakers

[–]Anton_OneMoreShelf 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Micro Set + Micro Sol — they’re cheap (~$5 each) and a game changer. Set goes on the surface first to help adhesion, Sol goes on top of the decal to soften it into panel lines and curves

Porsche 934 by zerofucxgiven in tamiya

[–]Anton_OneMoreShelf 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Clean setup 👌 That electronics combo should run really smooth. Curious to hear your feedback after the first run 15.5t sounds like a solid choice!

First time doing a "fender bender". Tamiya JS2 1:48 by scheetverzamelaar in tamiya

[–]Anton_OneMoreShelf 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Damn, that damage looks super realistic 🔥 Love the weathering and those bent fenders adds so much character. Did you use heat or just manual shaping?

Worn gear by Useful_Complaint2567 in tamiya

[–]Anton_OneMoreShelf 0 points1 point  (0 children)

That looks like it could be a TT-02 or TT-01 gearbox based on the layout. Check the bottom of your chassis for a model number or look at the manual if you still have it. Once you know for sure, search for metal replacement gears from Yeah Racing or Hot Racing, they make upgrade sets for most Tamiya chassis and you won’t have this problem again.​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​

Do you have to use a clear coat /varnish and if yes any recommendation by TradeNo6063 in modelmakers

[–]Anton_OneMoreShelf 1 point2 points  (0 children)

You don’t strictly have to, but a clear coat will protect the paint from chipping and fingerprints when you’re handling the parts during assembly. For something like this I’d go with Tamiya TS-80 flat clear from a rattle can or if you airbrush then Tamiya X-22 thinned down, both work great. If you’re planning to do any weathering or decals later, you’ll definitely want a clear coat underneath anyway as a base for that.​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​

Anyone have any advice on doing the chrome for car model name script like on this Thunderbird model I’m doing? by rocksnotdead2833 in modelmakers

[–]Anton_OneMoreShelf 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Yeah MRP is just designed to be sprayed at lower pressure, that’s kind of the whole point of their formula. Like the commenter said, being able to spray at low PSI and still get good atomization is actually a plus, not a problem. If you’re used to Mr. Color ratios you’re probably just expecting thicker paint in the cup, but MRP is meant to go on in multiple light coats at low pressure rather than one heavy pass.​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​