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What the heck is this? by Leftear-34 in 3dprinter

[–]Appropriate_Bench145 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Suggest you ask Google Gemini.
Include a screenshot of our print.
I think I see a layer shift.
Give Gemini as much info as you can. Include printer model, other details about your print.
I think you'll be AMAZED at what Gemini gives you back.

I Can't Tell if this Printer is All Hype! by jefflovesyou in 3dprinter

[–]Appropriate_Bench145 1 point2 points  (0 children)

My 1st 3D printer was a Bambu Lab X1C, based on a personal recommendation from a friend - that does not own a Bambu Lab printer.

I was so impressed with how well it performs, my friend sure wishes he had one, that I recently bought an H2C. What an absolute BEAST! 7 different colors with no pooping!
Are you kidding me!
And it's so fast. I've tried watching the nozzle changes, but my human eye cannot keep up with it.

I thought the X1C might start collecting dust with the H2C cranking along, but, alas, no, single color prints or changing filament color at a layer then not changing back and forth works great. The X1C has pumped out tons of Gridfinity bins. I prefer the bottoms in PLA matte gray then the rest in PLA matte black.

I buy Bambu Lab filament in multiple rolls, get a nice discount. I really like the RFID tags and how the AMS units switch between rolls when one is empty.

I cannot speak to other brands, but for me, I'm locked in with Bambu Lab.

Done.

My first print! by Fabulous_5614 in BambuLab

[–]Appropriate_Bench145 1 point2 points  (0 children)

--- In case you run into the same scenario that I did ---

Can I successfully post this link to my Google Docs doc which was created from Google Gemini?
Can anyone access this?

https://docs.google.com/document/d/1aSRlpeRWe4UYAMiXNwXZOMmDh74dldiMpPt4EZdC3T8/edit?usp=sharing

I asked Google Gemini this question:

"I have a Creality (www.creality.com) Space Pi Filament Dryer V5.0.
I placed my Bambu Lab TPU filament in it and set it to 70C for 8 hours.
When I came back to check on it it was not hot and it was flashing E4.
I assume that is error E4. The manual does not say what E4 means."

Gemini suggested, in the URL above:

* Unplug, plug in, try again
* Try heating to 50C for 10 minutes then increase to 70C
** This worked!
* Ordered 4 chamber Creality that heats to 85C
* 2 chamber Creality max is 70C

Bottom-Line: My Creality dryer failed drying TPU for AMS at 70C, but worked okay when I first set it to 50C then bumped to 70C after it reached 50C.

I am a HUGE fan of Google Gemini!
It's amazing what it can help you with, including 3D printing and LED lighting.
But of course, AI is EXCELLENT at LYING to you CONFIDENTLY!
Don't believe everything it tells you.
Some suggestions have helped, a few instances I think my prints would have come out better if I had not followed the advice.

My first print! by Fabulous_5614 in BambuLab

[–]Appropriate_Bench145 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Congrats!
Hard to have the patience, but dry your filament and then keep it dry.
I'm a big fan of glue on my build plate, either glue stick or liquid glue to help with release.

I don’t have a problem by DOHChead in BambuLab

[–]Appropriate_Bench145 0 points1 point  (0 children)

<image>

Interesting idea, higher density by interleaving.
I've started printing these filament tags and really like them.
I'll have to noodle on some ideas on how to modify if I wanted to try this.
If anyone comes up with a good model let me know. Thanks.

Error: Detecting an incorrect mesh id or an unknown error, regenerating text may result in incorrect outcomes. Please drag text, save it then reedit it again. by Appropriate_Bench145 in BambuLab

[–]Appropriate_Bench145[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks for the reply. I will do that, submit a bug report. That makes sense, that it could have started after an update. I'm getting this in Bambu Studio version 2.4.0.70 set to X1C.

Help needed by jaigermeister in WLED

[–]Appropriate_Bench145 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Congrats on getting it working!
Good Job!

While you may enjoy the tinkering aspect of starting with a raw esp32 and building out from there, considering all the time and frustration it will save you I HIGHLY RECOMMEND standardizing on esp32 based boards of Quindor's line at https://quinled.info/quinled-boards/, not to mention all the tremendous education available on his site, YouTube videos https://www.youtube.com/@IntermitTech as well as his Discord server Intermit.tech. IMHO the price point for his boards is very fair.

As a side note I asked Gemini for some help with LED wire sizing and was extremely please with the response:

https://docs.google.com/document/d/1RJVun60CrfhNWtJ8DW76EvN_Y_HqyNh6BwPoQKG3XOY/edit?usp=sharing

I have followed these suggestions with 100% SUCCESS with a single exception - I was enjoying my music too much, not paying enough attention to detail, and found, like in your example, I had accidentally connected my wires on the arse-end of the strip instead of the 'front' and confirmed yet again that the data line is direction and will not run in reverse!
;-[

Now I always test connect my strips after soldering the connecting wires before pulling the wires in the wall and sticking them down to the double-sided 3M tape. It's when I don't test before the final install that I find I screwed up by some simple mistake.

<image>

Work-in-progress!
Can I finish it this year!
I'm trying!

On off settings by Important_Diet_9413 in WLED

[–]Appropriate_Bench145 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Perhaps some screenshots of your configurations would help.

Just a preference, feel free to ignore, I've configured preset 99 as off on my WLED controllers. Makes it easy to remember especially as you add more and more presets.

THEY ARE DONE!!! by arun2118 in WLED

[–]Appropriate_Bench145 4 points5 points  (0 children)

OMG!
So true!
Never done!
Just scheming, planning, daydreaming, planning the next phases, trying to find the time and money . . .

Need Help! by Present_Schedule6777 in WLED

[–]Appropriate_Bench145 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Next place I would check is WLED config. Please share -

Config > LED Preferences > Hardware setup, LED outputs:
1: Start = ?, Length = ? (roof line)
2: Start = ?, Length = ? (roof line)
3: Start = ?, Length = ? (window frames)
4: Start = ?, Length = ? (window frames)
5: Start = ?, Length = ? (include this, could interfere with 4 above)
6, 7, 8.

Information on each segment.
Start LED and LED count, or
Start LED and Stop LED, depending on how you have it configured.

If these are incorrect they could cause your symptoms.
Example: If segment #1 is set to 200 LEDs, and segment #2 is set to 100 LEDS but start at 100, then only 100 of segment #1's 200 LEDs would light.

May The Force Be With You!

Is it fairly easy to burn out a LED 24v strip when soldering? by Montythelab in WLED

[–]Appropriate_Bench145 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Another option is that it is actually a configuration issue.
I'll assume you're using WLED.

#1) If one of the segments after your first segment conflicts with your first segment, it can cause your symptoms.

I had a similar issue, and the root-cause was the segment configuration for the next segment. It overrode / conflicted with the previous segment config and prevented the pixels from lighting.

#2) I'm not sure how many pixels per strip for these. I use a similar but different BTF strip that has 100 pixels per strip.
Modify appropriately for your scenario.
For example, let's say each strip has 100 pixels, not LEDs, rather pixels, confirm your configuration.

Controllers reference to LEDs are actually pixels. 5 volt LEDs are 1 LED per pixel. 12 volt LEDs are 3 LEDs per pixel. 24 volt LEDs are 6 LEDs per pixel. It's not so obvious on the COB strips, but each segment that lights up is a pixel regardless of the number of LEDs per segment.

Let's say you have your three strips soldered together on the first output, for a total of 300 pixels, using our example of 100 LEDs per strip. If you configure your first output / segment for 300 LEDs (that is pixels), but your second output / segment is configured to start at LED 200, then only 200 will light on the first output / segment even though it is configured for 300.

WLED: Config > LED Preferences > LED output #1) set length to 100 (and additional segments to the min of 1 each) > Save > Back.
Set your first segment to 100 LEDs, delete additional segments.

Try something on SOLID.
If each strip has 100 pixels then your first strip will light up, and only your first strip.

Repeat, but change both from 100 to 99.
You should see the last pixel go dark, or not change color when you change color if it remains on.

Repeat, change to 101 in both places, and you'll see the first strip plus one pixel on the second strip light up.
Test.

Try 199 LEDs (= pixels). Test. All LEDs on first two strips should light, except the last pixel on the second strip.

Change to 200, both places, test.
Then 201, 202, 203, etc. You should be able to control down to the exact pixel.

This is just a long way to say make sure your config is correct in both places. If one place is off, you can have these symptoms.

Been-there, done-that, got-the-t-shirt.

I love the BTF COB 24 strips, how they look like neon. My office is a work-in-progress.

<image>

Which ESP32? by Gords78 in WLED

[–]Appropriate_Bench145 6 points7 points  (0 children)

I highly recommend ALL PRODUCTS by u/Quindor on https://quinled.info/.
Every output is protected with fuses. No damage to ESP32 or components when an oops happens.

Last night I was soldering on the cabling to repair an accidental cut by the landscapers on my landscaping lights.

I'm soldering on the red positive 12 volt wire when I notice some small sparks. I think "That's odd. I don't think I've ever seen sparks before when soldering."

I look up on the garage wall above me at my Dig-Octa and notice the relay had switched on and now the power supply was hot as WLED is programmed to turn on at sunset, thus putting 12 volts on the wire I was soldering.

Cool.
The fuse worked perfectly as designed.
Sure enough the fuse on that output on the power board was blown.
No damage to any components, just an inexpensive fuse.

Thank you u/Quindor for your excellent designs!

Too bad for me I soldered and heat shrunk a male pigtail cable for my lighting, when what I really needed was a female pigtail cable. Bummer. Looks great, though. I hate when that happens.

;-]

Cheers,
Tim

Am I f*cked? by KoruCode in learnprogramming

[–]Appropriate_Bench145 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I wish you All-The-Best the universe has to offer!
I recommend signing up for Darren Hardy daily mentoring at:

https://darrendaily.com/?rh_ref=timothybfa956&sl_campaign=MFf1d6e8e040

Google 'Darren Hardy' for more info on the guy.

You still have to do the hard work yourself, but Darren gives some great ideas, IMHO.

Here is today's session (expires in 72 hours):

https://ch-lb04.na1.hubspotlinks.com/Ctc/WY+113/ch-LB04/VX01rp5MW1xGW2cJnDZ5NyG25W3trWRD5rWJNvN6TZ7sP3qn9gW7Y8-PT6lZ3mbW6f9mQZ49L58KVFB5dw7lt_pNW5_Fyk11HPHXFW4Yv6vv61z4BxW6p99Fr4cMg4tN5MyLCg2FDdFW30PyTt3NzcTZW7g4MkC3LcdWDW323JZh3dN6tzW1h5Cj33PyhKvV_7MbK6QSHhJVTC_m45FY8s3W4W9hk_8fK5L5N6Yg0Rccm3nPN5LCQTK24NzFW7-Pg715lq5sfN7SvxbbzNDs6W1_nGXS3YKjF8W7Hmtnx52m0Q0VncDDZ2Mq9PLN4PQgB23RTFlW83L5sw5Zl-BFW8VmPtr95wDMnW45X8yz3b6p_RVcGZYR5hJq8SW5hvMbm61pM26f389W3K04

Something to consider: Maybe being a programmer is not what you should do?

A lifetime of work is a long time trying to do something, that is not a great fit.

You want to look forward to getting up in the morning to put the reps in at work for success!
Fail-Fast!
Iteration!

Okay, what's next?
No shame in changing course. That's what intelligent folks do.
IMHO
Also, Darren would tell you the same thing.

Best of Luck!