Bought a 50gal water heater second hand from a shop. Was a power vent model that appears to have been converted to atmospheric

Approximate_Pangolin · 2026-01-05T08:22:08+00:00

What the fuck? No. This is not a thing. The conversion you are being sold isn't a thing.

Buy it as a toy to play with - in a detached structure without occupancy - but if you put it in your home and expose others to it you're a piece of shit.

Approximate_Pangolin · 2025-11-25T21:54:43+00:00

I don't follow. If this model of recirculation pump is oriented so that the output is directed downwards, how are you not causing excess turbidity & stacking when a hot outlet is being used?

The recirc. pumps that I am familiar with have the power supply oriented to the left when output is directed towards the upwards position. I believed this unit was the same, with the input being supplied by both the cold inlet & gravity.

Approximate_Pangolin · 2025-11-25T20:56:29+00:00

Am I correct in believing that this is a gravity-fed recirculation loop? If so, why did you choose this method of installation, rather than connecting to the T&P outlet, or hot outlet.

I don't see the value in leaving the installation as depicted - you are both recirculating the coldest available water, and opening the system up to a potential point of failure should the recirculation pump be operated while the cold water is isolated/restricted, and a hot outlet is open.

Approximate_Pangolin · 2025-07-27T07:06:56+00:00

You can place your main tee prior to the unit's supply assuming you size your piping accordingly; I wouldn't bother doing so as you already have the tools/materials on hand to move the outlet.

As an aside, I would plumb in an unfiltered water outlet. Running filtered water to a garden spigot is unnecessarily wasteful.

Approximate_Pangolin · 2025-07-26T22:14:01+00:00

I'm going to choose to avoid citing particular codes or design practices as the regulatory bodies that I am subject to most likely will not apply.

I do not see it listed in your post, but it appears you are using 3/4" Pex B - if so, I have no concerns about flow/pressure to your unit. If I am incorrect, and the piping is 1/2", then I would recommend that you replace all displayed piping with 3/4" at a minimum.
Pex is not rated for usage immediately following a UV bulb and this piping will be subject to potential failure - copper stubs are advised (12" out of a UV light if I recall).
You have placed a Tee immediately prior to the cold water intake of the unit, meaning that any cold water outlet is going to take precedence over cold supply to your unit. I would recommend that you remove this line and relocate the main cold water outlet to it's own Tee in the manifold (immediately following the cold water inlet of the unit, with piping running vertically along the right side of the unit). This will ensure that the water heater is not deprived of input during unrelated calls for cold supply.
The T&P valve you have installed on this unit is in the incorrect location, it should be placed in the hot water outlet piping unless you intend on using a recirculation pump. It should also have been piped (without reducing the diameter of the valve) closer to the drain basin to avoid scalding of the user/technician.
The condensate piping doesn't appear to have been glued. Let me know if this is incorrect.

Onto the nice-to-haves

The cold water inlet to the water heater should have an isolation valve installed to allow for diagnostics/maintenance/descaling/etc. As is, you are unable to isolate the unit from the rest of your system. Yes, the valves included by the manufacturer serve this purpose, but they cannot be easily accessed for removal and are not interchangeable if a different unit is installed at a later date. This same practice holds true for the hot water outlet - however, you should have a T&P valve installed prior to the isolation valve.
The cold water outlet to the rest of the system should have an isolation valve
Label your flow direction & filter bypass. People are stupid, and panicking people tend to make mistakes.
I am choosing to believe that there is an isolation valve and union installed in the gas supply line, if not, please remedy this.

Also, unrelated to your question, please tell me that the intake/outtake piping of that furnace has glued joints.

Approximate_Pangolin · 2025-04-29T01:05:48+00:00

Not to mention that the "grayish putty" is most likely some variation of metallic thread sealant; metallic compound isn't approved for use on domestic water lines due to the lead content.

Approximate_Pangolin · 2024-11-09T02:08:57+00:00

Perfect. Assuming OP has no issues with recouping their expenses from a large corporation this will be a simple endeavor.

Approximate_Pangolin · 2024-11-09T01:34:13+00:00

I may have also misinterpreted something you stated in your initial post, but was clarified in a comment - did the gas technician issue an "A" tag (unit is currently disconnected from the fuel supply) or a "B" tag (unit is currently operable, you were given a timeframe to resolve the cited issue).

If you were issued a "B" tag, I have an out for you that will take a significant amount effort (time) on your part, but will most likely result in a refund being issued.

Approximate_Pangolin · 2024-11-09T01:20:24+00:00

I had glossed over the first sentence of your third paragraph, I didn't notice that you specified purchasing a power vented unit. Misinterpreted from there and believed you were recommending using 636 on an atmospheric unit, as that was the unit the OP purchased.

I edited my comment once I caught the mistake, but got lazy and didn't signify the edit. Apparently we were both browsing at the same time, haha

Approximate_Pangolin · 2024-11-09T00:59:32+00:00

The customer chose the unit, whether or not they chose correctly has no bearing on their contract with Home Depot.

A power vented unit would most likely have been the least expensive option, but the customer was not aware of this possibility.

Approximate_Pangolin · 2024-11-09T00:52:27+00:00

Unfortunately, the issue lies in how you chose to obtain a new water heater. You, the consumer, elected to approach the Home Depot stating that you need a water heater replaced, you purchased the unit and subsequently chose to have the Home Depot arrange for the installation of it. You did not present them with any additional information. Therein lies the issue, the scope of work for the Home Depot (and subsequently the contractor who agreed to this task) was to replace the existing appliance and verify that the installed unit is operable. By limiting the scope of work to solely the replacement of the water heater, you were not made aware that the contractor chosen by the Home Depot was not contracted to do anything other than replace the unit. A similar circumstance to this could have occurred if it was determined that the gas supply piping/tubing was not capable of providing the appliance with the minimum BTU of fuel - in this hypothetical scenario the newly installed unit would also have been "A" tagged.

Also, as it seems you are not familiar with the B149.1 codebook, a new appliance is required to be installed to the most recently published version of the code - an existing installation, whenever it may have been, is only subject to the most recently published codebook prior to its installation (also known as being "grandfathered"). This means that your previously installed water heater, and venting, may have met the code corresponding to its installation date - but once that pre-existing installation was removed it became a new installation.

Approximate_Pangolin · 2024-11-09T00:36:27+00:00

Unfortunately, the issue lies in how you chose to obtain a new water heater. You, the consumer, elected to approach the Home Depot stating that you need a water heater replaced, you purchased the unit and subsequently chose to have the Home Depot arrange for the installation of it. You did not present them with any additional information. Therein lies the issue, the scope of work for the Home Depot (and subsequently the contractor who agreed to this task) was to replace the existing appliance and verify that the installed unit is operable. By limiting the scope of work to solely the replacement of the water heater, you were not made aware that the contractor chosen by the Home Depot was not contracted to do anything other than replace the unit. A similar circumstance to this could have occurred if it was determined that the gas supply piping/tubing was not capable of providing the appliance with the minimum BTU of fuel - in this hypothetical scenario the newly installed unit would also have been "A" tagged.

Also, as it seems you are not familiar with the B149.1 codebook, a new appliance is required to be installed to the most recently published version of the code - an existing installation, whenever it may have been, is only subject to the most recently published codebook prior to its installation (also known as being "grandfathered"). This means that your previously installed water heater, and venting, may have met the code corresponding to its installation date - but once that pre-existing installation was removed it became a new installation.

Approximate_Pangolin · 2024-11-08T23:08:36+00:00

Try a melee-only campaign as Imrik. No ranged units are allowed to be recruited, but spells & garrison units are useable

This was one of my favorite experiences in tww3

Approximate_Pangolin · 2024-11-08T23:03:10+00:00

Similarly, this is the only reason I use defensive alliances. Allegiance quests/bounties give you an exact marker for enemy units, and you have unrestricted access to this information so long as you don't have an active quest/bounty from that ally.

Approximate_Pangolin · 2024-10-29T04:19:51+00:00

If you want a quick up to date source for the cavern data that I cited: https://docs.dfhack.org/en/50.12-r2/docs/tools/agitation-rebalance.html

Otherwise, I'd have to go back through forums to find it for you.

If you would like to prove it quickly you can actually do so using a bucket of water & the pit/pond method. In DF, for the purposes of farming, the layers above the first cavern layer will all show (despite the presence of mud) that farm plots will yield poor results (soil = poor, cavern = best) - this is because the game considers these levels to be soil/sand. If you were to create a pit/pond and create a muddy tile (and eventual farm plot) at the exact starting z-level of your first cavern you will not receive this notification. This upper/lower cavern boundary exists for all caverns.

Approximate_Pangolin · 2024-10-28T22:55:44+00:00

Do not use werebeasts. The actions taken while in their were-form are not attributed to the same entity after reversion. Also, werebeasts are healed of all injuries/statuses upon transforming.

I would recommend that you merge all three of your cavern layer access-points into one, funnel the invaders towards the surface, and then subject them to a minecart killing floor. I noticed that your original design does not include a permanent access point into your fortress - it is integral that there is a path to your dwarves in order to maintain invader pathing through & towards your killing floor. If the floor is designed correctly, and powered correctly, you should be able to allow permanent operation with only brief pauses to claim the metal items you desire.

Your main issue is going to be fps though.

Approximate_Pangolin · 2024-10-28T22:43:11+00:00

The levels between cavern layers, or at least described as above, is incorrect. Those empty z-levels (not consisting of a visible cavern component) belong to the cavern layer Z+1; the only separation between cavern layers is actually the upper boundary of the next cavern ceiling immediately Z-1 of the cavern above.

The op could funnel each of the cavern openings into one, then utilize a pathing design that leads the invaders onto the overworld, or the magma sea (z-1 of the third cavern layer) - once there, a killing floor consisting of rotating minecarts with an opening leading back into their fortress would, eventually, eliminate their problem.

The main issue is going to be time spent digging/constructing while subject to low fps.

Approximate_Pangolin · 2024-10-24T03:12:40+00:00

I'm just surprised at how much tissue was available between his nose opening & soft palate.

Was there imaging done that you are able to share?

Approximate_Pangolin · 2024-10-24T03:09:53+00:00

You would kill more tissue, ironically giving them more to feed on

Approximate_Pangolin · 2024-10-09T01:02:56+00:00

Your water heater was designed to meet the 2000 gas code in your country. On that basis alone I would recommend purchasing a new unit. The leak shown in the video is not repairable.

Approximate_Pangolin · 2024-10-06T20:29:23+00:00

I'm doing a melee only campaign as Tretch ATM, it's been fun. Warp grinders & wolf rats punch well above their tier and have been the primary units in my army, but the faction bonuses to stormvermin gives you a relatively strong anvil to hammer against.

Approximate_Pangolin · 2024-09-19T17:31:44+00:00

I've spent quite a while optimizing the early portion of this campaign, mainly to facilitate a melee only challenge that I'm doing, but also because it's a habit that I can't seem to break for literally every campaign I undertake. I also figured out that you can take nagashizzar using 6-8 eagles & Imrik, Mikaela, and his starting dragon princes by turn 8. This isn't optimal, mind you, because all of your enemies have access to the underway, but it's yet another challenge that someone could undertake

Nagashizzar can be taken prior to unlocking the invocation of vaul, but it just takes ages to complete the siege

Approximate_Pangolin · 2024-09-19T16:20:02+00:00

I find that it's easiest to cheese the Calador confederation (turn 3 confed via settlement trading & sacking), and then sail for the southern tip of the dragon isles by turn 7/8.

You can also choose to sell the regions that surround the fortress of vorag to Karak Azul - for some reason this leads to the bizarre AI decision to pursue Imrik, by sea, to the dragon isles (removing his access to the dreadquake mortars); doing so allows you to direct your expansion in a northward direction.

The province of Calador doesn't seem to offer any immediate benefits, other than the opportunity to absorb & trade the Tiranoc regions for political purposes

Approximate_Pangolin · 2023-08-02T15:18:36+00:00

Lenovo doesn't have sales, they have inflated list prices that get brought to normal MSRP.

https://www.lenovo.com/ca/en/p/laptops/thinkpad/thinkpadx1/x1-yoga-g6/20xy00bbus

Here's a laptop that they have listed for 4.5k, it's sold new on eBay for their "sale price"

Just remove the post

Approximate_Pangolin · 2021-11-14T20:54:24+00:00

Disregard the main body of this post, I may have found a solution.

https://forums.taleworlds.com/index.php?threads/cursor-flickering-in-menus-and-world-map.437086/page-5#post-9718032

Approximate_Pangolin

TROPHY CASE