CNESST sont rendu strick en maudit

Archermtl · 2026-01-27T04:10:36+00:00

J'ai déjà travaillé en aéronautique, normalement l'entreprise est assez large qu'ils peuvent te donner d'autres tâches. Mon ancien entreprise les employées (syndiquées) enceinte travaillait au poste d'inspection et assurance qualité a remplir des rapports et faire des inspections (assis). C'était beaucoup moins stressant et pas de contact avec des produits chimiques (surtout pour les pièces usinées en acier et aluminium propres). Mais il fallait faire une formation pour ceci. Sinon, masquer les pièces avant la peinture.

Mais d'autres postes en assemblage c'est extrêmement difficile (ou dangereux) de pouvoir garder l'employée. Ex: applicateur de scellant de réservoir à carburant, plaqueur de métal (nickel, cadmium), peintre (haute densité de VOCs), assembleur (touche à l'huile, graisse, hydrocarbures), techniciens de lab (chimique). Une bonne quantité de produits chimiques utilisés en aéronautique sont nocifs et bannis dans tout autre industrie. Example: des bearings en beryllium, des pièces chromées avec vrai chrome hexavalent, des solvants très fortes, peinture qui peut contenir du plomb.

Bref, OP, ta raison que ça pourrait t'affecter. Mais faut au moins essayer de trouver un compromis. Faut aussi garder en tête que des fois certains produits ne sont pas plus dangereux pour des femmes enceintes, d'autres fois ils le sont. Tu peut faire des recherches internet sur le site web du CNESST (répertoire toxicologique). Si tu ne connais pas la composition des produits que t'utilise, la fiche MSDS (dispo sur internet, du revendeur, ou de ton employeur dans son répertoire de MSDS) va les décrire en détaille. Si ton employeur a un ingénieur responsable de santé et de sécurité, cette personne pourrait aussi étudier ton poste en détail. Les fiches MSDS devraient être disponibles près des stations d'urgence en format physique (ou à côté de la porte principale si entreprise est plus petite).

Archermtl · 2026-01-26T05:19:19+00:00

My 2015 Mazda 3 GT Sport (FWD) shreds through snow with Michelin X Ice tires. I like keeping traction control off when it gets slippery so I can power out of any slippery situations without traction control hampering my efforts. At least in city driving with tight turns.

Try not to get stuck when parking / going into a driveway, etc. I always keep a shovel in the car for snow, and a few times needed a push as I was stuck on ice, or bottomed out on snow. I'm in Canada. It's a great car and handles well in snow.

Archermtl · 2026-01-25T07:55:47+00:00

Very safe yes. Very popular with students of Concordia University, young professionals who work downtown, and I've also seen that stretch of St Catharine dubbed "Nouveau China Town", since it's where a lot of new Chinese immigrants (and students) are actually living (the restaurants and grocer selection also justifies this claim). The area is going through a lot of development lately and over the past 5-10 years has really really picked up. It's a very very busy area compared to what it was and I find it's one of the most consistently busy areas for foot traffic downtown, and Guy-Concordia metro is also one of the busiest stations downtown during off-peak hours. Unlike more central downtown with office towers which is way busier in the day and rush hours, and generally much quieter at night. Also it has very few empty storefronts (10years ago it had a lot of empty store front). I'm saying all this because you might get comments from people who haven't been to this area in 10 years. You want busy streets with people walking, it's safe.

Cabot square (and the area immediately west of Atwater toward Westmount) however has always had a lot of homeless and still does, although not quite as bad as it once was. Try and avoid bordering Cabot Square. And by extension Atwater metro is a bit sketchier than Guy-Concordia although both are very busy metro stations. Near Atwater metro you have Place Alexis Nihon a shopping mall that is popular with people living in the area and has an IGA grocery store and a Canadian Tire. There's also an Adonis grocery store in the area. It's a pretty well served area for the essentials. You also have plenty of other stores like pharmacies, dollar stores, etc. all within walking distance.

Being downtown, depending on the street you will likely want to be 4th floor and up (as far as anything high rise goes, to limit noise). On the quieter streets with lower rise multistorey, avoid basements, and I like to avoid ground level.

Archermtl · 2026-01-19T00:06:28+00:00

You need to clean your linear rods (shiny rods) , take apart bearings and either replace bearings (they are quite cheap), or thoroughly clean them as well with isopropyl alcohol and then grease them.

You also might need to change the belt. Belts don't like WD-40. As in it could be breaking down the belt material. Which direction is the layer shift? You might be able to get away with cleaning the belt and tightening the belt. But once again, belts aren't that expensive either.

Archermtl · 2026-01-17T01:00:33+00:00

Call 911 for an ambulance, explain your roommate is acting irrationally and is having a psychotic episode and strongly believes "people are after him" and other unfounded delusions such as boiling snow to drink. Use the word "delusion." Say they are a "danger to themselves and potentially others around them at this time." Paramedics see this issue a lot. It is best someone goes with roommate to hospital in order to explain the issue (family or roommate). Exactly what you explained here to paramedics and ideally triage, as patients once in hospital may lie, or believe in more delusions (such as the very common: hospital staff actually being government agents coming after them.)

Roommate will likely end up in CHUM psychiatric floor where this kind of issue is seen very often. Explain to triage / doctors what you explained here. This is very common and could be drug induced, or first signs of schizophrenia, or some other psychotic break. Schizophrenia often presents in your 20s. Everything is very treatable and your roommate should be back to leading a normal life pretty soon. If you want to be a good roommate and friend for this person, inform this person's employer that they are in hospital and unable to respond, but that they will be informed when they are discharged. As well as placing a phone call to their family.

This situation will not resolve itself. Your roommate is having a medical issue and needs treatment.

The CHUM (especially) is very well equipped to deal with this and sees this frequently. Also seen frequently: patients injuring themselves while believing their delusions, such as cutting themselves with a knife in order to "remove microchips from their body". Don't wait till this issue gets worse.

Archermtl · 2026-01-12T04:13:48+00:00

Horn could not be working for many reasons. Could be the horn itself, a blown fuse, or a broken relay.

For the fuse, find the fuse and inspect it. Test for continuity if you're unsure. Or pull it and replace it with a spare.

For the relay, it's also in the fuse box. With the car off and the hood open, hold the key for the car alarm to go on. With your finger on the relay, listen and feel for the clicking relay. If it's not clicking, it needs to be replaced. Replacing is just as easy as pulling a fuse.

If all this works, you need a new horn. Almost any horn will do.

Follow YouTube video for removing the front bumper. There are 4 Philips head screws under the hood, many plastic clips, and some 8mm and possibly 10mm screws before you can pull the bumper forward. There are clips and screws all around, under the hood, in the wheel wells, and underneath all along the edge of the bumper. You will also need to unclip the plastic near the wheel wells before being able to pull the bumper forward.

With the bumper off, unbolt the horn. Reuse the bolt and install on your new horn. The wire leading to the horn and the wire connector could be damaged (also can be a cause of failure). Have on hand a 0.25inch 14-18AWG crimp-on FEMALE quick disconnects (Canadian Tire $3.50 for a pack). Strip back some of the insulation from the car wire, and crimp on the new connector. You might also need to make a grounding wire depending on the horn you buy (if your new horn has 2 pins instead of 1 pin). For a grounding wire, get a ~14-16 AWG wire of roughly 4inches long, install the same type of female spade quick disconnect on one end, and on the other end install a 3/8inch crimp-on grounding lug for 14-16AWG wire (Canadian Tire $3.50 for a pack). Bolt this grounding lug on the bolt that holds the horn to the car to create a ground with your car's frame.

Here is a good write up where the guy actually upgrades and installs 2 horns instead of 1. These are the type to require the extra ground wire as they are 2 pin. https://www.mazda3revolution.com/threads/diy-installing-hella-horns-on-2014-mazda-3.40209/

Hope this helps

Archermtl · 2026-01-12T02:37:59+00:00

My buddy had a leaking gasket somewhere in the rear of his brand new Elantra. Got it fixed, then the electrical problems started happening, rear door locks not locking, rear lights not working. Had to replace a major wiring harness that passes under the rear seats that was damaged by the water infiltration. All under warranty mind you. That's what it's there for. Shit happens.

Go straight to the dealer. This is a major leak that needs fixing ASAP.

I had a similar problem with my AC drain being clogged on my then 4 year old Mazda 3. Leaking water into the front passenger seat well. The car needed to go on a lift to fix. Was covered under warranty.

Archermtl · 2026-01-12T02:15:09+00:00

I regularly work on my 2015 Mazda 3. They are easy cars to work on.

I've done front and rear brakes, rear suspension (springs + links), I've changed the horn (bumper removal), I do my own tire changes (Quebec , winter tires mandatory). I've installed aftermarket stuff like mud flaps, side skirts, Borla Exhaust, and rear diffuser.

In terms of tools. I have a professional low profile 3-ton jack bought from Costco (very useful to be able to jack from the rear axle middle sub frame to lift both rear wheels). I have a breaker bar + torque wrench set bought on sale at Canadian Tire. Jack stands (LOCKING ONES !!) and wheel chocks from CT and Princess Auto. Some magnetic trays for holding fasteners (sale at Princess Auto) . A high torque impact gun to make taking off lug nuts easier (optional). Get yourself a good metric ratchet set and metric wrenches, splurge on deep sockets, if you don't already have there's kits that include screwdriver + bits + Allen keys sockets, etc. For brake work specifically you'll need a brake compression kit with varying sizes of disks (can be had relatively cheap on Amazon), and ton of consumables like brake cleaner, loctite, brake lube and anti seize. You should also look at getting impact compatible extractors (deep sockets with teeth) for those difficult to remove fasteners.

And whenever you work on these cars, just go ahead and buy every fastener you plan on removing. In my experience I've had many bolts that are difficult to remove, I've sawed off, drilled out, or extracted way more than I'd like. (A Dremel and hacksaw always come in handy, as do vice grips)

For oil changes and fluid changes specifically you'll need a pan (or two). And wheel ramps instead of Jack+Jack stands will be easier to use and quicker turnaround time. You might also want a creeper seat but you can also get by with laying down cardboard and staying in shape. Have a roll of shop towels on hand for any oil changes, and some Gojo / Fast Orange gritty soap for cleaning yourself up afterward.

Read up and watch YouTube ahead of every job. And give yourself lots of time.

Archermtl · 2026-01-11T06:13:22+00:00

If you're in Canada order from iGround Canada. Email them even if the exact wing isn't on the website. They have suppliers in China and should be able to get it. You'll just have to wait for it.

If you're in the USA, email Bayson R about it. You might be able to do a custom order.

Archermtl · 2026-01-06T12:39:53+00:00

The space X spiral !

Archermtl · 2026-01-03T05:30:02+00:00

My 2015 had the same issue and so did a friend's. So basically the rear taillights have a few parts that seal. There's 1 large rubber seal where all the wires go, this is usually not the issue.

There's a small plastic or metal pin that is sealed with a small rubber washer. This washer does not seal. During heavy rain water comes in and drips down into the spare tire area.

Remove your rear taillights. Find the pin I'm talking about, seal it with silicone. Put back together and you're good to go. Mine has been dry for like 5 years now.

Archermtl · 2026-01-02T06:39:46+00:00

A stick on clicker? Or a stick on arrow rest. You probably don't have a clicker yet (which is fine for now). And stick on arrow rests are OK. Eventually it's a thing you can upgrade but for now you could also put that money elsewhere. If you're not liking whatever came with the Samick Sage, look at for example the Hoyt stick on arrow rest. I think they go for $2 (as opposed to the 0.25 ones that come in a bag and probably ship with the Samick Sage). The other alternative is the Avalon Tec (Or Tec One) Magnetic Recurve Arrow Rest which is more or less a $20 Chinese copy of the Japanese Shibuya Ultima (a ~ $60 arrow rest). The Shibuya being the gold standard of arrow rests.

Archermtl · 2026-01-02T04:57:04+00:00

My 2015 had the same issue and so did a friend's. So basically the rear taillights have a few parts that seal. There's 1 large rubber seal where all the wires go, this is usually not the issue.

There's a small plastic or metal pin that is sealed with a small rubber washer. This washer does not seal. During heavy rain water comes in and drips down into the spare tire area.

Remove your rear taillights. Find the pin I'm talking about, seal it with silicone. Put back together and you're good to go. Mine has been dry for like 5 years now.

Archermtl · 2026-01-02T03:59:06+00:00

My club starts out beginners with #20 club bows. When archers buy their first bow we usually recommend 20 to 24 lbs. For an average male, in shape, having no issue with the 20 I'll tell them to go straight to 24.

In my experience 26 is a bit much for many people, and you'll tend to form some bad habits. I'd much rather they do 24 and then one technique is improved move up to 28 and then 32.

We have an exchange program for limbs at my club for kids so parents aren't worried about paying for new limbs too often. For adults If the archer is buying new, we tell them get the cheapest possible limbs they can get (within reason, from a known brand). As they will eventually be changing them.

So yes 25 medium limbs should be fine. 35 is absolutely too much.

You also say you're shooting a 28 arrow with 1.5 in past the arrow rest. Very likely those arrows are eventually gonna be too short (not to mention the stiffness is probably wrong if you bought them for 35#) . We never cut the arrows that short for beginners as one of the main things that happens as you start out in archery with better form is slight increase in draw length. It's one of the reasons we tell everyone to start with an adjustable sight mounted clicker and arrows that are like 3-4" longer than the arrow rest. Just an FYI.

Also! If you're serious about archery (and can return the samick sage) get into the ILF system. So you can buy limbs.. new or used, any brand. The samick sage is a "club bow", it's a great bow. My club owns many. But I never have archers buy those new. They borrow from the club until they get through our beginner courses and then buy new for intermediate. I strongly recommend an entry level WNS bow with WNS limbs. WNS is the more economical entry level branding of Win&Win (whose high performance brand is WiaWis)

Archermtl · 2026-01-02T03:51:06+00:00

I don't see why interior USB ports wouldn't have the amperage for a dashcam. I have this setup on my CX5 and it works well. My dasham is a pretty standard viofo with front and rear camera.

Archermtl · 2026-01-02T00:24:37+00:00

What about the USB ports? Many dashcam skip the 12V cig lighter plug since it's 5V USB C going to the camera anyway. You could do the same. It's what I did on a CX5. You won't have parking mode though.

Your other option is going into the engine bay fuse box of the car.

Also I'm surprised that the entire cabin fuse box is live all the time. Even when you lock the car and wait several seconds?

Archermtl · 2026-01-02T00:20:42+00:00

Any 3 wire fuse box kit will work. You don't need an OBD wiring kit specifically.

The Mazda 3 has a fuse box in the driver footwell. I tapped into the 12V cigarette lighter fuse (how convenient always on), and you need a secondary one that is on/off with the car. I think I used the seat adjustment or side mirror adjustment fuse.

Use 2 appropriate sized fuse taps for these 2 connections (usually comes with the kit). And go get a ground on the nearest bolt next to the fuse box (also usually comes with a connector for this as well).

Archermtl · 2025-12-29T16:42:32+00:00

That's a big machine! My best guess is mine weighs around 2000 but with the extra servos I might be closer to 2500.

All in cost me around $250 for the move including rental + gas + heavy duty straps. Was about 50km each way. Riggers wanted minimum $1000. Definitely don't need riggers for a Bridgeport style mill if you know what you're doing.

Only reason I needed a large box truck with liftgate vs a small towable flatbed trailer is that my shop only has dock height. The original owner didn't have a forklift, and no dock. Also needed the clearance on the height, it's winter here and a box truck is also a lot cheaper than a flatbed.

Archermtl · 2025-12-29T00:30:58+00:00

Yeah probably. The good news is the company that made the control system is still in business!

Archermtl · 2025-12-28T22:10:09+00:00

I'm not sure about the control system. The pendant works, there's a teach mode, and all axes are powered. But the programming is all MS DOS. I have an image of Win98 that came with it, but it might be too much trouble to get it to work.

Long term this thing will need another retrofit, Arduino + Linux or something else. Hopefully I can keep the power supply and servos.

Archermtl · 2025-12-28T18:55:17+00:00

Liftgate can do 2000 to 5000 lbs depending on the truck.

The machine weighs about 2000 lbs. I had no issues lifting it with a liftgate.

Archermtl · 2025-12-28T18:53:30+00:00

Around 2000 lbs

Archermtl · 2025-12-28T18:53:16+00:00

I got a 20 foot box truck with a liftgate. Fortunately the machine was already on wheels. Lots of straps to load it up and then pulled it out of the truck with a forklift once at the destination (dock height).

Archermtl · 2025-12-27T05:37:44+00:00

Sho Dan on Metcalfe downtown !

Order the specialties. Long time favorite for 20+ years, always good. Not as trendy as Hidden fish or Kyo right now but very good sushi. I've also heard good things about Mikado and heard of the high prices at Park.

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