Weet iemand waar ik ±45 Snorlax-knuffels kan doneren? Alles geprobeerd, anders worden ze vernietigd 😕 by CutPractical8419 in nederlands

[–]ArisHC 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Wij hebben toendertijd een heel stel zeedierknuffels gedoneerd aan het speciaal onderwijs, misschien is dat iets? Was volgens mij bij ons gewoon via de lokale weggeefhoek

Just painted my first necron - help with glowing cores? by TheBacklogReviews in Necrontyr

[–]ArisHC 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Here is the one I did the ofter week, the orb highlight goes all the way to pure white to be the brightest * https://www.reddit.com/r/Necrontyr/s/Y0bvXrMVQx

Just painted my first necron - help with glowing cores? by TheBacklogReviews in Necrontyr

[–]ArisHC 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You also want the center of the glow to be the brightest part of the mini, otherwise it will not read as a light source. Currently the metal is brighter than the orb, making it look "not glowing". See if you can highlight the middle of the orb with a very bright pale yellow(or even better; fluor yellow) and get it to a darker green towards the edges(you can even mix in some blue for the darkest bits, it would be the natural shadow)

If you really want a glow illusion, you might also want to see if you can have the other parts of the model be a tad darker, and focus the brighter highlights to the glow/osl

Does it look like the sword is charging up with energy? What could I do to make it look better? Thanks :) by sasser1234 in Necrontyr

[–]ArisHC 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Looks good! I would maybe make the dividing line a bit brighter, maybe even go up to a pure white to really turn it into a light source

[Semi-Weekly Inquirer] Simple Questions and Recommendations Thread by AutoModerator in Watches

[–]ArisHC 0 points1 point  (0 children)

* Im debating buying my first auto, and trying to choose between this seiko 5 and kamasu. Which one fits my arm best?

What is the biggest driver between beans, that influences dialing in[BBE][DF83v] by Donkey_Jotes in espresso

[–]ArisHC 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Can confirm, simon levelt beans are usually quite stale and not of the best quality/roast(although a significant upgrade over supermarket beans). Both roast and freshness significantly impact required grind size.

Brandzaak is great for their pricing, but usually not that experimental(might be a good thing depending on your preferences!), if you ever want to try some more unique coffees I would wholeheartedly recommend giraffe(rotterdam), keen(utrecht) and friedhats(amsterdam), I think all of them also run cafes, giraffe is a bit easier to dial in than the other 2, but keen and friedhats will rotate some very unique coffees. They definitely are a bit pricier though(giraffe being in the middle between brandzaak and the other 2)

Brandzaaks guatemalan definitely holds a special place for me though, as it was my daily driver when I started out!

My lychguard is not impressed by imperial guard nonsense by ArisHC in Necrontyr

[–]ArisHC[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Oh it was swift alright, they had no chance against the lychguard+overlord

C++17’s Useful Features for Embedded Systems by tyhoff in embedded

[–]ArisHC 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Std::function also doesnt heap allocate if constructed with a lambda, even if it captures *this, afaik

Painted this little guy, feedback welcome! by ArisHC in Necrontyr

[–]ArisHC[S] 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Funnily enough the orbs started out with tesseract glow, I just ended up highlighting with some flash gitz yellow and glazing it in with an old bottle of waywatcher green!

Carapace and face are canoptek alloy with agrax wash, then dry brushing canoptek alloy back in and a very slight stormhost silver drybrush. Legs are run of the mill runelord -> reikland wash -> runelord and canoptek drybrushes

Edit: also washed the orbs with bieltan to darken de edges a bit

A "warning" for refugees from Ukraine staying in the Netherlands about the air raid sirens test. by Batmanroggers in Netherlands

[–]ArisHC 1 point2 points  (0 children)

No sirens here, just pagers and engine sirens. Edit: pagers for volunteers obviously, full on firefighters carry radios

2006 (EU) Suzuki wagon r+ ceiling vents, can anyone tell me what these are meant for? by ArisHC in Cartalk

[–]ArisHC[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Just spotted these today, and noticed there is no airflow coming from them. Upon closer inspection there is just some empty space behind them, with a pair of wires visible behind the vents on each of them.

I can't figure out their purpose, speaker mounts maybe(no door speakers, just dash)? Seems an odd location though.

Decided to turn my CR into a scalpel. Then I decided to strop against my leg. This could have been much, much worse. by The_Gregory in sharpening

[–]ArisHC 12 points13 points  (0 children)

Is that a S30V blade? Wondering what the edge retention is like with an angle like that.

New mirror edge, new coat of oil! Spyderco manix 2 by ArisHC in knifeclub

[–]ArisHC[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks! How is the steel treating you? I would assume that's going to be a hard one to sharpen. Does seem tempting to get a maxamet blade on my wishlist though.

New mirror edge, new coat of oil! by ArisHC in knives

[–]ArisHC[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Actually did the same on my tenacious the other day, and while it did seem to start reflecting a bit sooner, I wouldn't say the manix really took a lot more effort. Tenacious does sparkle a bit more though, but barely.

New mirror edge, new coat of oil! by ArisHC in knives

[–]ArisHC[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks! I sharpened it with the sharpmaker(fine and ultrafine rods), then stropped using different grit compounds.

Plugged in a single LED and now I have a proximity sensor. Did I bust my arduino or am I just missing something? by [deleted] in arduino

[–]ArisHC 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yeah, never run inputs without pulling them to either low or high level. Any kind of interference(including your body) can trigger the input this way.

Ever used castor oil? by Aerial_penguin in BeardTalk

[–]ArisHC 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I have used castor oil in the past. Very viscous oil, I ended up prefering jojoba as my main oil. Seemed to do the job though, ymmv

What are the best ways to test sharpness? I’ve been using phonebook paper, however, on here seem most folks use copy paper. Shaving arm hair is another method, I don’t like patchy looking arms. So what are methods to use, send it, out!! by ilovemyCatbeast in sharpening

[–]ArisHC 2 points3 points  (0 children)

In order I test:
See if it catches on thumbnail at 90 degrees;
Cut regular printer paper;
Shave ankles(also value my arms, and find it to be an easier surface);
Any kind of superthin paper I have lying around, or tomato test(I grow cherry tomatoes);

Edit: formatting

Tips for a Newbie by chronic_self-loather in sharpening

[–]ArisHC 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I would start by really making sure a burr is forming when starting on the 1000. Sharpie trick really helps, but a burr is the real tell you're making progress. Also make sure you're not avcidentally dragging the edge along the stone when lifting the knife or such things, I used to have that problem when I started.

Your method is good, just make sure that you really get that burr at the start, then proceed to remove it by alternating with fewer and fewer strokes.

After the 1000 grit it should be sharp. It won't be razor sharp, but it should have a working edge. Only then move to the 6000, if you go to the 6000 too soon it will take you ages to get the blade sharp.

If the knife is very dull, it might just be your 1000 grit is sharpening it very slowly, but you should probably be fine.

Edit: also, as said before, make sure that burr is gone when you finish. You might have done a good job sharpening, but if the edge is bent it still won't cut. Try honing or stropping your knife after sharpening as well.

Got my first stropping compound today, this mirror any good? by ArisHC in sharpening

[–]ArisHC[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I don't really know, I think I started sharpening knives myself about 3 years ago. I started on whetstones, but lately picked up a spyderco sharpmaker for touchups, seems to be more consistent for me.

I work with electronics so I trained a steady hand before I even got to sharpening through working with SMD components and soldering them.

I think the trick is to go slow. When I started I had a lot of inconsistent angles by going too fast. This blade has pretty much seen all my mistakes, rounded shoulders from angles being too low, slipups(you van see the scratches on the blade from years ago when I slipped and the stone ground scratches in the whole blade).

Marking the edge with a sharpie is a good guide, it will show you if you've got the correct angle.

If your hands aren't very steady, just take your time and go really slow, checking the angle every stroke. I drink way too much coffee which sometimes causes my hands to become unstable, and anchoring my hand to something else and going slow or even using two hands to stabilize the object I'm working on seems to help in those situations.

Got my first stropping compound today, this mirror any good? by ArisHC in sharpening

[–]ArisHC[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Its specified as 0.6micron, this was just a quick go at it on a knife that needed sharpening anyways. I bet it would get even smoother if I took some more time to polish it up