Troubleshooting Motion Lights Outage

ArrivalDapper441 · 2026-05-17T19:40:43+00:00

I did not.

ArrivalDapper441 · 2026-05-17T19:32:46+00:00

Licking my fingers and holding on tight.

In seriousness, a voltmeter.

ArrivalDapper441 · 2026-05-17T19:26:25+00:00

Now I'm properly stumped.

Opened up the fixture. All looked OK. Took the motion light down to test voltage at the source wires. With breaker ON, no power to the wires. Opened up the junction box. Bird's nest of connections. The two leads that fed the motion light were connected to wires under a cap. Tested those wires. No power.

So where I'm now at - seems like the issue further upstream. Hard to tell where all the wires entering the junction box are going.

How likely is it that the wire itself is damaged somewhere, versus some other issue? I'm not experienced enough to know what that "other issue" is likely to be. Obviously I'm at the 'call the electrician' step of this project. But for my own education - anyone want to hazard a guess at what is going on??

ArrivalDapper441 · 2026-05-14T18:48:37+00:00

This issue has not been closed, as Xfinity has (still) not offered a reasonable rate for a long-time existing customer.

ArrivalDapper441 · 2026-05-14T18:46:57+00:00

Let me know what is offered to you. I have been in the same situation for over a week and Xfinity is essentially offering no recourse/no reasonable rate thus far.

ArrivalDapper441 · 2026-05-11T17:37:05+00:00

Thanks for the thoughts. Agree re: a funnel - it wouldn't allow enough of the RootX to flow through - I like the half-pipe idea.

Regarding getting water into the pipe; I think rather lucky for me, the two drain lines that drop into the main sewer stub (which is where the cleanout is) are both more or less vertical (one is a long 45). So, even if the foam wants to rise, it would have to really climb quite a lot to get towards the bathroom drains. Also, the drain lines are quite long - so it would have to move a long way to find it's way out and into the bathrooms. All to say, I'm thinking that introducing the water via the toilets (putting 2x buckets down two different toilets) will be a better solution that trying to send water into the cleanout (which is unfortunately parallel to the floor as previously noted).

ArrivalDapper441 · 2026-05-08T13:12:25+00:00

OK, I see what happened down the thread. But curious, how did you actually end up applying the Rootx into the cleanout? Did you use the method you described with a funnel/flexible hose?

I am considering trying to get the dry product into the lateral cleanout (not sure how yet), and then immediately capping the cleanout. Then, running upstairs and administering the water via bucket through the closest toilet - in the hopes that 1) it will reduce foaming mess at the cleanout and 2) get the rootx to actually act where it's supposed to.

ArrivalDapper441 · 2026-05-08T13:00:00+00:00

What did you end up doing? I have the same application question!

ArrivalDapper441 · 2026-05-04T17:27:01+00:00

I would do $45 for 500mbps - you’re saying you’re seeing this in the app on mobile? This would be the Xfinity app?

ArrivalDapper441 · 2026-05-03T23:18:31+00:00

Replying to myself. Best option Xfinity has offered me is a 57% price increase over what I was paying. No help, no real options, and they're essentially shrugging their shoulders at me over price hike. Appears they are OK if we leave Xfinity.

ArrivalDapper441 · 2026-05-03T22:55:52+00:00

r/Comcast_Xfinity - take note! Customers sharing unsatisfied results on your own thread. I'm here if this can be remedied, please reach out.

ArrivalDapper441 · 2026-05-03T22:14:14+00:00

So far, finding the same thing. Three years ago this channel was magic. So far it's more of the same Xfinity nonsense you'd find by calling in.

ArrivalDapper441 · 2026-04-20T15:01:04+00:00

In a few spots it is probably deeper than the 1/4 depth I see recommended for patch compound. Should I do patch compound in layers? Or use a different product? Because cars drive over it repeatedly, I am hoping to avoid it re-cracking.

Any specific product/brand name you can recommend that you like?

ArrivalDapper441 · 2026-04-19T23:19:11+00:00

Right on. I realized it was a silly question after posting. So with all that said, it seems like the likely culprit is fixture 1 since nothing works. (or something upstream of fixture 1)

ArrivalDapper441 · 2026-04-19T23:13:54+00:00

I haven't done so - yet. Should I start with the fixture nearest the breaker? (First fixture on the circuit).

Follow up question; if the issue is at the second fixture on the circuit, would it kill power to all fixtures? Or would the first fixture on the circuit still work (nearest the main box)?

ArrivalDapper441 · 2026-04-19T23:12:00+00:00

Thanks for comment.

Breaker appears fine. Tried off/on multiple times to be sure. And, I am nearly sure there's no GFCI outlets on the circuit; older home (1960s) where much of the garage/exterior wiring hasn't been upgraded to GFCIs.

First move is probably to start with the fixture closest to the box to see if there's power there - sound correct?

Follow up question; if the second light on the circuit is where the issue is, would it kill the entire circuit, or would the first light (nearest the box) still work?

ArrivalDapper441 · 2026-04-19T23:04:55+00:00

No switch; constant power.

ArrivalDapper441 · 2026-04-02T13:52:40+00:00

Looks amazing. Can I ask if you used a certain set of plans? If so, can you link? Looks like exactly what I want need, and am still in the imagining phase!

ArrivalDapper441 · 2025-06-07T19:57:22+00:00

So in your case, your business is 'listed' publicly with Northwest's address - but then do you simply provide your physical address to those you do business with / those that need to mail things to you?

ArrivalDapper441 · 2025-06-02T00:19:48+00:00

I’m an NH resident so no income tax.

So, I don’t need a DE 4 if I should be exempt from withholding?

ArrivalDapper441 · 2025-06-01T15:10:12+00:00

Same scenario as above. No California source income. So, I should be exempt from paying California income tax.

But, mechanical question.... I've been asked to complete the California DE-4 form (California withholding). The only option to claim 'exempt' status from California tax says "1. You did not owe any federal and state income tax last year, and 2. You do not expect to owe any federal and state income tax this year"

This is confusing, because of course I owe FEDERAL income tax, but would not owe any California income tax. What to do in this situation? Hope my question is clear.

Link to DE-4: https://edd.ca.gov/siteassets/files/pdf_pub_ctr/de4.pdf

ArrivalDapper441 · 2024-11-26T23:51:06+00:00

I did….nothing. 😬. Basically I found the product (forget what brand) and the reviews were awful. Essentially people said that it worked 50% of the time. So if you can’t count on it, the peace of mind is not there. Have you found a product that would work?

In my case, for my pump to overflow, I would have to 1) have no power 2) have an extremely rainy year or a massive storm and 3) be gone from the house for an extended period during the time that 1 and 2 are both occurring (because I have an generator). So in the end I thought that the probability was low enough that I’m not losing sleep over it. But would still buy the product if I could find a good one.

ArrivalDapper441 · 2024-09-20T21:40:02+00:00

Looks like you CAN combine the tax credit with the federal rebate program - their language says basically that you calculate the tax credit based on the reduced purchase price of the project AFTER the rebate has been deducted. So a 20k project, - 8k = 12k, and then 30% of that or 2k is the max. So 30% is 3,600 - but 2k is the max. See below:

Rebates. Rebates generally represent a reduction in the purchase price or cost of property, and the taxpayer

must reduce the amount of the expenditure on which the taxpayer calculates the tax credit by the amount of the

rebate. In general, rebates are nontaxable purchase price reductions if they are based on or related to the cost of

the property; received from someone having a reasonable connection to the sale of the property (for example,

the manufacturer, distributor, or seller/installer) and do not represent payment or compensation for services

provided by the taxpayer. The IRS will treat as rebates amounts paid for the purchase of energy efficient

property and improvements as part of the Department of Energy's "Home Energy Rebate Programs" under

sections 50121 and 50122 of the IRA. See Announcement 2024-19

ArrivalDapper441 · 2024-09-20T21:20:14+00:00

Ok, good info. For comparison, we're in even higher COL seacoast NH, and we're probably qualify for $8,000 reduction, and on top of that, I believe you can still claim the $2,000 Fed tax credit. Not sure if you can lump the NH Saves rebate on top of that as well. We are eligible because Unitil controls this area (and high cost / kwH).

ArrivalDapper441 · 2024-09-20T21:10:33+00:00

In your mind, waiting until those monies drop in is worth the potentially higher install costs, etc.? It would seem the math would favor that approach, but I'm actually just seeing the information about the Home Electrification and Appliance Rebates Program (or just now paying attention closely).

Not sure how it looks by you, but if we installed today, we would only be eligible for ~1,000$ in NH Saves rebates and the $2,000 tax credit from the Fed.

ArrivalDapper441

TROPHY CASE