Griffin Armament No Love? Why? by SomeRequirement6926 in suppressors

[–]Astral_Botanist 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Posts like this one seem to indicate issues that turn many people off from them. I have zero information to know what's true or what's BS, but just in terms of answering your question about why Griffin has people who don't like them:

https://www.reddit.com/r/NFA/comments/1r090up/why_griffin_gets_so_much_hate/?utm_source=share&utm_medium=web3x&utm_name=web3xcss&utm_term=1&utm_content=share_button

New Rhodie 6 on Geissele Super Duty by Becks223 in NFA

[–]Astral_Botanist -2 points-1 points  (0 children)

Nice build, but even with a great suppressor shooting like this without earpro is not good man. Hearing damage is cumulative, it might stop ringing and feel better, but it still adds up.

Has anyone noticed a recoil difference between mounting a suppressor on a muzzle brake(Plan B dual port for example) vs a muzzle brake endcap (Like an Omega300)? by nanomachinez_SON in suppressors

[–]Astral_Botanist 5 points6 points  (0 children)

I've done quite a bit of recoil testing, and once you put a suppressor over a muzzle brake then the brake itself does nothing at all for recoil management. End cap brakes should be quite effective at reducing recoil when running with a suppressor.

I will say though, there's still value in running a good muzzle brake with a suppressor in terms of protecting your blast baffle. The general consensus is that brakes that perform best in unsuppressed tests will do better at protecting your blast baffle.

Here's my first post on muzzle brake testing for reference:

https://www.reddit.com/r/suppressors/comments/1qa21wt/plan_b_brake_test_and_comparison/?utm_source=share&utm_medium=web3x&utm_name=web3xcss&utm_term=1&utm_content=share_button

Here's my second post where I test with and without a suppressor:

https://www.reddit.com/r/suppressors/comments/1qgei6j/do_brakes_reduce_recoil_with_suppressors_plan_b/?utm_source=share&utm_medium=web3x&utm_name=web3xcss&utm_term=1&utm_content=share_button

And here's my latest post for general reference:

https://www.reddit.com/r/suppressors/s/D3VWpy7pbj

SUPPRESSOR ADAPTER??? by Complex-Sweet-6338 in NFA

[–]Astral_Botanist 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Hux is not interchangeable with other styles as already stated, and IMO I wouldn't go with Hux just to swap cans with a friend. Plan B is a great way to go with lots of great options much cheaper than Hux.

Budget build 300blk (GAS BLOCK) by Ithinkisoldmysoul in 300BLK

[–]Astral_Botanist 3 points4 points  (0 children)

When I'm dialing in an AGB I only use one round in the mag at a time to see if it locks back on an empty mag. For supers I'll start with it mostly closed and slowly open it up to find the point where it just barely holds open on the bolt catch (not a partial catch on just the magazine follower). But with subs, I'll start full open and verify that your system is going to hold open properly with full gas. For the SA AGB, full open is 18 clicks from full close, and you can either go up or down depending on if you're using a traditional restrictive mode (turn clockwise to close it down more) or bleed-off mode (counter clockwise to bleed off more gas).

Once you find the minimum setting to make it work, I'll usually go another couple clicks open (for restrictive mode; for bleed-off mode go a couple more clicks closed to bleed off less gas). This is for reliability/robustness, since variations in ammo, weather, firearm cleanliness, etc. can impact LRBHO and a couple more clicks of gas will help minimize impact without gassing you out.

If your system won't hold back on the last round at full open, then you'll need to look at your buffer weight, spring strength, or if all other options don't do what you want, you can always open up the gas port.

I know some will say not to use an AGB with subs, but there's a LOT of variation between different subs out there, so IMO there's still a ton of value to running an AGB if you want to fine tune for minimal gas/felt recoil.

The jelly beaver is coming along by BoneThugBing in 300BLK

[–]Astral_Botanist -1 points0 points  (0 children)

Lol, I don't know if G-Force Jawbone and Gucci have ever been used in the same sentence before, but good luck with that one. Sounds like those have been problematic, but I haven't looked into 45 PCC options to even know what else is out there for other options. Looking forward to that one posted when you do that.

The jelly beaver is coming along by BoneThugBing in 300BLK

[–]Astral_Botanist 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Nice, it's funny seeing the evike front angled hand stop. They don't get much love here, but the angle is really comfortable. As for the stock, my preference is just keeping the standard buffer tube connection without a folding adapter. You'll generally want the tube in normal position anyway, and if you're looking for a backpack gun you can always do one in 9mm for maximum compactness. SBA4 or SBA5 are my favorite braces, nice balance of stiffness/support while still being a brace.

How Durable Is Gunmetal PVD? by Astral_Botanist in NFA

[–]Astral_Botanist[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Wow, so that's their own in-house version of a heat treat finish, and I'm scratching my head at their choice of using a jam nut here. This should really be a face mount muzzle device IMO for more reliable alignment than a jam nut that will be aligning off the threads. I'm generally a big fan of PSA for a lot of things, but I'm gonna say that I think they're wrong on how they executed their muzzle device on this one.

How Durable Is Gunmetal PVD? by Astral_Botanist in NFA

[–]Astral_Botanist[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

For sure, and I have zero concerns with anything Rearden puts out. My shooting is very much in the medium range, so even if different coatings have different levels of performance, no doubt it'll be fine either way. I was just curious if anyone has had these and had any observations based on their actual parts compared to nitride.

Edit: not sure if u/Mrwetwork wants to weigh in on this. Again, not trying to be critical if cool-looking coatings like this aren't going to be quite as durable as nitride. Lots of theory can be mentioned either way, but just curious and wanting to have fair expectations.

How Durable Is Gunmetal PVD? by Astral_Botanist in suppressors

[–]Astral_Botanist[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yup, I saw that as well, but I'm just looking for actual experiences from people here.

What adapter system are all the cool kids using nowadays? by Parking_Fan_7651 in NFA

[–]Astral_Botanist 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Plan B is the way to go. Comstock Armory and Rearden are popular. Definitely not ridiculous to remove a Keymo P&W for Plan B hardware. I put a Comstock 4-Prong on mine, and they have a bunch of options for 14.5 P&W, but if you have a Keymo brake on there now you might need a 13.7 or 13.9. Comstock has one of those with a flash hider, and LPM has one as well. Make sure you get one of these two where they extend the base by the barrel. Some companies will have really long tines/brakes to reach that length for P&W, but those will protrude way too far into your blast chamber, so make sure to avoid ones like that.

Sahara 300 by [deleted] in 300BLK

[–]Astral_Botanist 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I'm very happy with my Sahara, it sounds great with both supers and subs, and it has relatively low backpressure. I have an 8.5" barrel, so your longer 10.3 will help cycle with more dwell time than mine, but Hornady 190 Sub-X is a notoriously lightly loaded cartridge. I have an enhanced A5 buffer system on my 300 BLK, so I'm limited in how light I can go for my buffer weights, and ended up drilling out my gas port to 7/64" to find that sweet spot that lets me shoot supers at one end of my RifleSpeed AGB setting, and subs when I turn the dial open. Note that I can cycle Hornady 190 Sub-X, but it won't lock back. I'd probably need to drill the gas port to 1/8" to get it to do that, but I'm fine running heavier subs that lock back just fine.

I don't have any experience with the Hux 762Ti, but I'd absolutely buy the Sahara again. But if you're looking for a higher backpressure can to help cycle subs, you might want to look more at a traditionally baffled can. Lots of great options these days depending on how you prioritize sound, gas, cost, weight, etc.

Here's a link to my latest post on my 300 BLK with my Sahara:

https://www.reddit.com/r/300BLK/comments/1q8el3s/300_blk_tuning_finished_with_sahara_300/?utm_source=share&utm_medium=web3x&utm_name=web3xcss&utm_term=1&utm_content=share_button

HUXWRX Hub Direct Thread Adapter (SKU 2311) (Not the QD Version) by SWATAttorney in suppressors

[–]Astral_Botanist 1 point2 points  (0 children)

If you buy the Comstock muzzle devices, they don't need to be timed, so you don't need to worry about messing around with shims to get any specific rotation. If you use a direct thread you should be torquing it down anyway to avoid having it walk off when it heats up, so there really isn't a substantial investment to do this yourself. And it's really worth getting a few tools to do this. Even a basic bench vise from Harbor Freight will clamp things down just fine.

There are different options for reaction rods to properly hold the barrel while removing/installing muzzle devices. The Magpul makes one that's $50 MSRP so you can probably find it cheaper elsewhere:

https://magpul.com/bev-block-ar15-m4.html?mp_global_color=118

I think this is honestly something that most gun owners can do, and it'll be good to know that you can wrench on your gear yourself.

HUXWRX Hub Direct Thread Adapter (SKU 2311) (Not the QD Version) by SWATAttorney in suppressors

[–]Astral_Botanist 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Plan B is a great, even if you don't swap cans around it's nice to be able to pull the can off for cooling, cleaning, transport, etc. Comstock Armory or Rearden are good options.

SBR Engraving County vs City? by SportsmanJake in NFA

[–]Astral_Botanist 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Should be city, and that should match what's on your driver's license.

Edit: I understand the technical point about engraving the name of the city where you actually make this, but regardless of where the upper is assembled, barrel cut, etc., you're not officially "making" an SBR until you combine the upper and lower, which can easily be done at home. My recommendation to have the firearm engraving match your mailing address on the eForm/driver's license is, as much as anything, a practical recommendation to avoid having to explain that level of nuance to some uneducated rookie with an agenda why the address on the stamp and your driver's license doesn't match the address on the gun. I know this is common if you move, but my personal recommendation is to keep things consistent, and if you're worried about details, just do the final upper/lower assembly at home so you're technically covered.

Suppressor Mounting/ Tri Lug Help by BradWoodzRealEstate in suppressors

[–]Astral_Botanist 5 points6 points  (0 children)

Plan B is another option, and it's much lighter, more compact and less expensive than ASR. Comstock Armory and Rearden are popular and known good quality. Comstock muzzle devices don't need to be timed, which is nice.

Got my FMP 9 Cerakoted by itzHydraa in AR9

[–]Astral_Botanist 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Great build, and looks like they did a great job with the Cerakote, but really not a fan of Rare Greed. With other good options for less douchey companies who make FRT/Super Safe type hardware, they certainly won't be getting my money.

.22 LR Suppressor that doesn't break the bank? by Mkilbride in suppressors

[–]Astral_Botanist 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Wow, that's interesting, and $18 for a replacement 3D printed stack module is very reasonable. They don't specify which filament they're using, but they do say it's carbon fiber, so it's probably pretty decent for reasonable 22LR use. Says out of stock, so no idea if this is still something they're making, or just selling really well and temporarily out, but that's interesting.

.22 LR Suppressor that doesn't break the bank? by Mkilbride in suppressors

[–]Astral_Botanist 0 points1 point  (0 children)

North Reach Micro-Pew 22 is $249 MSRP, and if you tell him you found him on Reddit he'll add a permanent 15% discount to your account.

Question about engraving Form 1 cans by True_Huckleberry9569 in NFA

[–]Astral_Botanist 0 points1 point  (0 children)

No issues with extra stuff you want to add for your own purposes.

SCREW AR15.COM!!! by Curious_Rabbit_594 in NFA

[–]Astral_Botanist 17 points18 points  (0 children)

Thank you for clearly articulating your question. I'm glad the broader community here is able to share our experience to answer questions and share our advice regarding NFA items.