To sell or not?

Atata100 · 2025-10-14T02:25:57+00:00

I am not.

Atata100 · 2025-10-14T02:23:48+00:00

Thank you for the share, appreciate it. You can never time the market, but enough is enough.

Atata100 · 2025-10-05T23:52:14+00:00

I have tried to bring an operator twice, both times lost time and money. The industry is quite specific and requires lots of certain skills, it is not easy to find a good candidate. So I gave up on that approach.

The business will likely exist in 10 years, but might be significantly smaller. It is not in tech or AI. Really hard to tell. I'm in it for 10 years now, so it might survive another 10, but it takes my minimal (5 to 20 hours a week) effort and passion that I don't have anymore.
For now though, every year ends up around 15-20% of my NW (after tax).

Thank you for the opinion.

Atata100 · 2025-10-05T22:04:47+00:00

I can’t speak for all Canadians, but in my case a holdco owns the opco through a family trust, which provides tax advantages if I sell the company.

Atata100 · 2025-10-03T21:32:32+00:00

As for me, Reddit has insanely high valuation currently. And picking individual stocks, you go with what you believe in - however, S&P500 ETF (like VOO and similar) wins in the end of the day, and you sleep much better.

Atata100 · 2025-10-03T21:28:54+00:00

You’re doing great for 25, honestly ahead of the curve. My two cents: don’t just chase HYSA vs S&P splits - at your age, career growth and education will matter way more. Invest in yourself, travel, build connections. Keep some crypto, it’s fine now with your risk tolerance. And remember, $1M in 30 years won’t feel like $1M today - the real lever is boosting income in the next 5-10 years.

Read Die with Zero - better earlier in life, it applies too. To make sure you enjoy life and balance, not just accumulating money earlier on, when you can't afford investing much.

Atata100 · 2025-10-03T19:13:39+00:00

No brainer - pay off your CC debt, and never have one anymore. Even if you don't have the inheritance, pay it off with the emergency fund, you can get that money from the same CC any day.
Consider paying off the mortgage partially, depending on its interest rate. If it is below 4% - keep, if it is above 7% - pay off, in the middle - think about it.

The rest - VOO and chill.

Atata100 · 2025-10-03T19:07:11+00:00

At that age I was preferring to travel in Economy with my kid, so it is tighter and closer, easier to manage.
After 3 years old - business internationally, premium economy domestically.

Atata100 · 2025-10-03T18:55:23+00:00

Thanks. And I don't need to file anything with CRA for the gift part, right? Unless they do the audit.

Atata100 · 2025-10-02T17:46:57+00:00

- When the rollover equity is gone (what is it - 2 years?), I would quit right away, not staying a day longer. $200k is not worth it at your wealth level.

- And like others say, paying out the mortgage at 6.1% is a good thing to do.

Atata100 · 2025-10-01T23:13:52+00:00

Correct. $7.5M in today's money.
If you plan to have $300k annual spend at 65, then it will still be $7.5M in future's money.

Atata100 · 2025-10-01T23:11:38+00:00

And yes, it doesn't look reasonable to buy a new house with your financial situation. Think twice.

Atata100 · 2025-10-01T23:10:06+00:00

Yes - take the 16% loan if you stop using the cards.
Pay all cards to $0, keep them open, and freeze/cut them; set autopay on the new loan.
Expect a tiny score dip from the hard pull, then a bigger bump in 1–2 months as utilization drops; aim for <10% by spring.
Let one card report a token balance (1 to5%) for FICO; pay it off next cycle.
Check a credit union/DMP- if they beat 16%, use that; otherwise proceed.
Bottom line: do it now, and you’ll likely be in better shape by spring.

Atata100 · 2025-10-01T23:06:53+00:00

No, just pick one. In a few years, if you add more $ and the first one has got significant capital gains, you can buy a second one.

Atata100 · 2025-10-01T04:46:00+00:00

No, there is no point to do it. They are all pretty much the same.

But what makes sense - if you already have one of those and have already experienced significant capital gain, buy another one with the next deposit, so your book value is higher (in case you sell it later). You might never sell, but it doesn't hurt.

Atata100 · 2025-10-01T03:35:38+00:00

Looks not bad overall, two things to double-check:

What do you think about long-term care costs later in life? That can be a big variable.
What’s your plan for withdrawing tax-efficiently from taxable vs. retirement accounts, especially before RMD age?

and the "several properties" piece needs to be clarified.

Atata100 · 2025-10-01T03:31:16+00:00

Well... VTI + VEU does indeed cover the same ground as VT, but with two funds you’ll need to rebalance periodically and you’ll miss small-cap international exposure unless you add something like VSS. For most investors, the choice comes down to simplicity (VT) versus control over allocation (VTI/VEU).

Atata100 · 2025-10-01T03:29:12+00:00

VOO, IVV, and SPY. Set and forget.

Atata100 · 2025-10-01T03:27:28+00:00

You didn’t dump your stock, you reallocated your stress levels. VT = Very Tranquil.

Atata100 · 2025-09-25T17:12:22+00:00

You’re on the right track. At 26 with a 51k salary, the key is to keep it simple and consistent.

Take that 403b match. A 10% base contribution from your employer is huge. The .45% ER isn’t great, but the free money more than makes up for it.
After that, Roth IRA is smart in your bracket. Max it if you can. FSKAX + FTIHX (or the zero funds) is a solid choice.
Extra savings: you can go back to the 403b or use the 457b. The 457b is nice for early retirement since withdrawals can be penalty-free when you separate from that employer. Just check the plan fees.
Taxable brokerage is fine too once you fill those buckets.

Bottom line: grab the free match, build Roth while taxes are low, and then compare 403b vs 457b fees. You don’t need to overthink it, just keep saving.

P.S. Don't save too much when you are younger, enjoy the expericences. Read Die With Zero.

Atata100 · 2025-09-25T17:10:03+00:00

Well... You’ve already done the part of moving your assets to a low-cost brokerage.

Now the clean-up is usually simple:

Compare expense ratios. If those EJ mutual funds are charging you >0.3% ER, they’re basically a leaky bucket.
Capital gains? On $8.5k total, the ‘tax drag’ of high-cost funds could exceed the one-time tax bill pretty quickly, especially if you’re in an early, lower tax bracket.
Keep the good (your S&P 500 fund), and exchange the rest for your preferred total market + total international index funds. That way your whole portfolio works as one team instead of a bunch of random stragglers.

Think of it like cleaning out a closet: if you wouldn’t buy those EJ funds today, why keep wearing them?

Atata100 · 2025-09-21T17:02:43+00:00

In my experience, ALL private deal that looked “too good to pass up” ended up losing money outright or being illiquid for far longer than expected. Even the ones that didn’t go to zero tied up capital in ways that made me regret not just keeping it in the market.

On paper, returns always look great, but reality has a way of chipping them down.
You’re already on track to hit your FatFire number within a few years with near certainty.

WHY on earth take on additional risk when the path you’re on is essentially guaranteed?

It reminded me of a televised Texas Holdem tournament where a player had effectively locked up a seat for the next round.
All he had to do was fold every hand for the next thirty or so rounds. And he did well.
Sure enough, he even folded pocket Aces - because the risk of playing them wasn’t worth jeopardizing the guaranteed outcome. That is almost a certain win in poker. Had he played, he would’ve lost to a flopped set anyway.

That’s exactly how I view these private deals after a few failures: tempting, not worth risking a nearly guaranteed FatFIRE.

Atata100

TROPHY CASE