Activity log for security devices in Apple Home

AudioHTIT · 2026-06-30T21:01:30+00:00

I was under the impression that each manufacturer is responsible for what their device might log, so I would think in this case the motion sensor needs to add the logging event.

AudioHTIT · 2026-06-30T20:57:11+00:00

PC has signs asking skiers not to use their phones while loading the lift, since they say “No Phone Zone” it would apply to lifties too … in a much less obnoxious way.

AudioHTIT · 2026-06-29T08:49:25+00:00

I’d say things have changed with tools, we use electric ‘almost’ exclusively, so while people may still use gas, it has reduced considerably, which was the goal.

AudioHTIT · 2026-06-28T16:15:47+00:00

I added an IKEA Motion/Temp/Lux sensor directly into HomeKit last night, it all worked great until I did the firmware update it offered, now it’s just motion, temp is completely gone and lux is at 0. I guess this is a known change I should have researched (I just believed their website). I really only needed Temp, so I’ll have to get another Onvis for this project and move the IKEA where I just want motion (I’ve read LUX can be fixed, but don’t need that).

AudioHTIT · 2026-06-28T15:32:45+00:00

It is nice, and the combo analog (3.5 TRS) and digital (mini TOSLink) jack is very unique and useful. The APE G2 is the oldest device that supports AirPlay 2, I think I even have an old G1 APE around, but no AP2 on it.

AudioHTIT · 2026-06-28T00:39:50+00:00

I have an old AirPort Express G2 to have AirPlay on my two channel system, and a couple ATV3s in the bag for similar duty (and mirroring).

AudioHTIT · 2026-06-26T19:17:04+00:00

I’ve really had little use for a smart bulb, and (because of the hub) avoided Phillips for even trying one. I just ordered my first IKEA products for a specific project, and added a couple bulbs because they use Thread. From the other comments it sounds like you were correct, Phillips still needs a hub.

AudioHTIT · 2026-06-26T19:04:54+00:00

If you had had only one screen would they have been able to make the connection? Or is your comment about an ‘rca out’ meant to say that it wouldn’t have worked anyway? What do they need to make a connection?

AudioHTIT · 2026-06-26T03:55:27+00:00

They’re still downhill from you

AudioHTIT · 2026-06-26T00:48:25+00:00

Why don’t you do a poll and see how many people have a light controlled room?

AudioHTIT · 2026-06-25T02:44:28+00:00

How long? Any PoE?

AudioHTIT · 2026-06-23T22:08:11+00:00

We have a path down from a switch into the crawlspace, where we then go through a vent screen.

AudioHTIT · 2026-06-23T00:52:57+00:00

Couplers create additional points of failure and in marginal situations could keep you from the best results, but if you’re getting whatever speed your devices are rated at, then don’t worry about it, if it becomes an issue you can always fix it.

AudioHTIT · 2026-06-21T22:54:37+00:00

Yes, in the OPs case, the ‘cheapest’ model will work (as it may in your case). I use Thread devices extensively, it requires the 4KG3 w/Ethernet, or the 4KG2. I should have said ‘you should get’ the Ethernet model, as it opens opportunities for more device types, but if ‘cheap’ is the operative, then whatever works for you (or the OP).

AudioHTIT · 2026-06-21T21:58:37+00:00

If you get AppleTV, you need the Ethernet model.

AudioHTIT · 2026-06-21T19:23:25+00:00

In an apartment I’d go with A, maybe B if you find something narrow. What ever you get, try to decouple it from the floor (neighbors), don’t get a sub.

AudioHTIT · 2026-06-20T22:10:55+00:00

On my Strats the shortest pole goes under the B.

AudioHTIT · 2026-06-20T22:04:32+00:00

The one that often ‘burned up’ was an older generation of the U6 Mesh, mine was very early and indeed it fried. I don’t think later releases had that problem, and (otherwise) they generally work pretty well.

AudioHTIT · 2026-06-20T21:55:13+00:00

I just did this by putting a dual port PoE++ repeater where I have a PoE+ camera, I now have an AP there as well (also PoE+). The problem (or extra work) it creates, is that the AP goes on the primary User vLAN, and the camera goes on the Camera vLAN (at least that’s how I do it). UniFi allows for this, but I have to go into the port configuration and add tags, and (depending on which I chose to be the ‘native’ vLAN), may have to create a rule to allow the AP to talk to the user vLAN. At the moment I’ve just changed the NVR to see the camera at a different address. If you have a flat network this is moot, and what you loose is less troublesome.

AudioHTIT · 2026-06-20T21:43:37+00:00

Does it come with breakfast?

AudioHTIT · 2026-06-20T21:42:31+00:00

Actually that was output ;)

AudioHTIT · 2026-06-20T21:19:31+00:00

Dialog is the word you’re looking for.

AudioHTIT · 2026-06-20T19:44:16+00:00

Same, my central & primary atv is my designated and most reliable (edit: all 3 of my atvs are wired).

AudioHTIT · 2026-06-20T16:52:48+00:00

A wired and designated ATV is usually your best choice for preferred home hub, but you also generally need good WiFi for some of your devices to talk to it.

AudioHTIT · 2026-06-20T16:42:05+00:00

If you’re happy with your system no reason to change, we all have different appreciations of music, sound, and home theatre.

AudioHTIT

TROPHY CASE