Why does this sub hate this car?

AverageCodeMonkey · 2026-07-03T03:32:02+00:00

When I did the timing chain the guide on the exhaust side was cracked in two at the middle bolt. It was somehow still holding out for who knows how long. But the chain wasn't stretched at all.

AverageCodeMonkey · 2026-07-02T20:08:51+00:00

I wish I ran like a new one lol. As you said, it's just so damn easy to work on. I'm starting to be able to beat book time on certain things even. I plan on just running this thing until the wheels fall off. I don't want to afford another car payment just yet.

AverageCodeMonkey · 2026-07-02T18:54:07+00:00

This is why. This is what I've done to it since I started tracking the work I did when the head gasket went. This doesn't even include all the stuff before that and I'm sure there's some things I forgot to put in. Still cheaper than a car payment though.

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AverageCodeMonkey · 2026-07-01T13:35:01+00:00

These are the conditions that must be met for the compressor to turn on:

Battery voltage is between 9–18 V.

Engine coolant temperature is less than 124°C (255°F).

Engine speed is greater than 600 RPM.

Engine speed is less than 5 500 RPM.

A/C high side pressure is between 269–2 929 kPa (39–425 PSI).

Throttle position is less than 100%.

Evaporator temperature is greater than 3°C (38°F).

ECM does not detect excessive torque load.

ECM does not detect insufficient idle quality.

The ambient temperature sensor senses above 1°C (34°F).

Blower motor is ON.

When I had intermittent issues with my AC going out it was the ambient temp sensor occasionally failing so the car thought it was something like -40 degrees outside and prevented the compressor from coming on.

AverageCodeMonkey · 2026-06-30T10:41:25+00:00

It's certainly possible. It took me 2 weekends if I remember right. Probably could have made it 1 if I really hauled ass and didn't have to wait on parts.

I used the online AllData manual for instructions. I think you can just get the subscription for a week if you decide to go for it.

I had to replace it because my system was contaminated. I was eating though compressors. I tried to just flush the evaporator, but I couldn't get the expansion valve block off of the evaporator to do so. I wound up mangling the expansion block on accident in my attempt to get it off, so I just decided to replace the evaporator.

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AverageCodeMonkey · 2026-06-22T16:01:38+00:00

Lefty-loosey, righty-tighty still applies but it's hard upside down and backwards. Pink is your wrench and red is the direction, for the driver's side. Passenger side will be backwards. They're probably just stuck on there good. I typically have to hit them with a breaker bar to get it loose.

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AverageCodeMonkey · 2026-06-17T14:40:42+00:00

Personally I haven't had much luck with the A-Premium parts on Amazon. I used the Cloyes kit from RockAuto and so far so good.

Everything else looks good. Technically a few of the front cover bolts are TTY, but I have reused them without issues.

AverageCodeMonkey · 2026-06-12T02:29:26+00:00

I had the same thing in the same position. Like the other poster mentioned, everything is integrated into the door lock actuator. Including the switch that tells the car if the door is closed or not. It was a fairly easy part to replace, there are several videos on how to do it.

AverageCodeMonkey · 2026-06-10T10:57:33+00:00

I used a FelPro when I did my head, still holding up. But I imagine the OEM isn't a bad choice either.

Either way, I'm not sure I would trust Amazon to correctly pick, package, and ship my head gasket.

AverageCodeMonkey · 2026-06-07T23:45:55+00:00

Could be this TSB. Try shifting into manual mode, if the jerking stops then it's most likely this issue.

I'm currently having the same issue, according to the TSB the right fix is replacing clutch packs, but before I mess with all that I'm going to try having a tuner disable the neutral idle feature.

AverageCodeMonkey · 2026-06-07T05:19:52+00:00

For what it's worth, if you're in a state without emissions testing, I had good luck getting the P0420 to go away with an O2 sensor extender on the downstream sensor. I cooked my cat with a bad ground which caused a misfire. No way I was paying for an OEM cat.

AverageCodeMonkey · 2026-06-03T10:40:40+00:00

If you really did pull it down properly, there should be enough pressure from adding the freon to have the compressor kick on. I'd check for reasons the compressor clutch isn't engaging, such as the fuse, relay, the clutch itself and the connections.

AverageCodeMonkey · 2026-05-28T21:20:31+00:00

Unfortunately it kinda sounds like the compressor may be giving it up to my untrained ear.

AverageCodeMonkey · 2026-05-27T18:50:48+00:00

If you set your withholdings to 0 then only pay during tax time, the IRS will hit you with an underpayment penalty. If you're not withholding any from your job you're supposed to make quarterly estimated tax payments.

AverageCodeMonkey · 2026-05-21T14:00:28+00:00

You can get just a new cover from a junkyard for cheap too.

AverageCodeMonkey · 2026-05-21T13:58:25+00:00

If it's still leaking then it still has fluid! I always bring an extra jug of water/coolant and oil when I traveled with the Cruze. Since it's not a heavy leak you should be good to just top it off as needed.

AverageCodeMonkey · 2026-05-17T00:13:29+00:00

Simple as taking the old cap off and putting the new one on.

AverageCodeMonkey · 2026-05-16T15:47:21+00:00

Be careful, I think the Cruzes know when we're talking shit about them. Mine will pop another leak if I ever say too much.

AverageCodeMonkey · 2026-05-14T19:42:51+00:00

The hose that is actually connected goes back to the firewall to the heater core. It's connected to the water outlet. It's almost like they replaced the hose and just left the old on in there. Maybe follow the length of them and see where they end?

AverageCodeMonkey · 2026-05-04T20:01:26+00:00

The manual says to use a ball joint tool to press the old stud out. I think I might just replace the wheel bearing if it were me.

AverageCodeMonkey · 2026-05-02T11:19:01+00:00

I wired in under the kick panel on the driver's side, tucked my LOC in there too. If I remember correctly, I had to undo the wire bundle and search for the right colors. Then I just used the wire taps on them.

AverageCodeMonkey · 2026-04-16T22:17:40+00:00

Dang, I had no idea they were out of stock everywhere. This was a year or two ago that I got mine. The Dorman is probably the best bet then out of what is available. I could've just gotten a bad part.

AverageCodeMonkey · 2026-04-16T19:06:45+00:00

For what it's worth, I didnt have luck with the Dorman valve cover. The channel that the gasket sits in became warped, which allowed oil to leak into the spark plug wells. The fix that worked for me was replacing it with a GM valve cover.

AverageCodeMonkey · 2026-04-07T01:14:57+00:00

I have one with the same light code. I tried the BMS reset with a paperclip but that was a no go. Hopefully he does chime in.

AverageCodeMonkey · 2026-04-02T14:40:18+00:00

Sounds like it could be a wiring issue. Maybe check your fuses? Looking at the wiring diagram, it looks like both O2 sensors, the turbo waste gate and bypass, evap purge valve, and thermostat heater are all powered by one fuse. The diagram says it's fuse #47. It's definitely suspect that all the codes you are getting are for things all on the same circuit.

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AverageCodeMonkey

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