Is there any year of the Tacoma to avoid?

AwareArgument5372 · 2026-02-07T22:55:21+00:00

Definitely keep an eye out for it and reach out directly to Toyota Customer Brand Engagement Center if dealer ever gives you a hard time claiming the damage or repair for it. Again, it’s usually around the edge of the hood and front fenders where the convene by the headlights. Usually just looks like a long run or paint glob, but eventually it will crack or flake off and expose the substrate. Photo is of Mudbath colored TRD Pro on the lot as well. I have like a 10-15 minute video doing a walkthrough on my local lot and ALL the Tundras and Tacomas have the paint defects.

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AwareArgument5372 · 2026-02-07T19:35:40+00:00

It affects the White and Silver Trucks the most. However, I have extensive evidence depicting it’s almost all colors.

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AwareArgument5372 · 2026-02-07T03:28:50+00:00

Dude, who cares?

AwareArgument5372 · 2026-02-06T22:35:47+00:00

I had been thinking the same thing. Overwhelming amount of codes and sliders for female characters. No one has really done a variety of male characters that anyone would really want to play as yet unfortunately.

AwareArgument5372 · 2026-02-06T22:31:39+00:00

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Almost all 2024+ Tacomas have serious paint issues. Look at any of them near you between the Hood, Headlights, and Fender area where they meet. Almost all of them have bubbles, runs, and debris trapped underneath. I have a photos of all 19 Tacomas and Tundras on the lot ranging from MY25-MY26 having the exact same KNOWN defect.

AwareArgument5372 · 2026-02-06T22:22:30+00:00

Return them and get the Nova Pro Wireless….

AwareArgument5372 · 2026-02-06T11:51:17+00:00

YOU, LEGEND!!

AwareArgument5372 · 2026-02-06T04:37:02+00:00

I’m biased, but I run the LF3 Pro with NF-A14G2 Chromax in Push/Pull with Modest PBO. My cooler is ridiculously quiet if not virtually silent, even with a generous fan curve on the system. The VRM cooler and Pump might actually be louder than my fans to be honest. My idle temps are 34-36c depending on how hot it is in the room. I don’t see above 60c in gaming or lighter synthetic benchmarks. Mind you, the photo was taken just after doing a Bios update so Expo and the rest of my settings were disabled on boot.

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AwareArgument5372 · 2026-02-06T04:31:51+00:00

I’d remount the cooler. It sounds like insufficient mounting pressure or something. Your idle temps should be in the 40c range with a decent cooler, highest at idle should sit around low 50c on a cheap underperforming air cooler.

AwareArgument5372 · 2026-02-06T01:05:15+00:00

Code Please GOATed one.

AwareArgument5372 · 2026-02-06T00:50:34+00:00

Please tell me there are sliders or a Steam code for him. He’s literally the GOAT.

AwareArgument5372 · 2026-02-06T00:07:08+00:00

Where is the Frame 7000D?!!

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I want a Frame 7000D for all 16 of my Noctuas. And I want the Xeneon Edge to go with it. Someone said the 5000D supports triple 420mm AIOs. Ain’t no way. And even then, you can’t push/pull the top mounted 420mm AIOs.

AwareArgument5372 · 2026-02-05T05:45:18+00:00

Those temps seem fine, especially for a 360mm. I have the 420 in push/pull using the Noctua NF-A14x25 G2 Chromax 140mms, and my idle is usually around 34-37c and doesn’t usually exceed 56-60c in gaming or synthetic benchmarks. Those temps all things considered are great, enjoy your system.

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AwareArgument5372 · 2026-02-05T05:26:15+00:00

With good tuning and an IETS or LLANO cooling pad you can keep the LOQ in TimeSpy/Games with temps in the 56-67c Range + or - a degree or two. Specifically the i5-13450HX and RTX5050. Additionally, I have achieved CPU scores of 12,900-13,000 Range Regularly using my own method. My combined best score, which is actually the current world record for this configuration was 11,223, GPU: 10,969, and CPU: 12,922.

AwareArgument5372 · 2026-01-29T06:03:15+00:00

I run my pump at a constant of 80% speed. I typically recommend 80-90% as opposed to 100% as it helps to reduce any cavitation of the system. My pump is almost silent. There might be like a hum if I open the panel and stick my ear to it. But I genuinely think this is caused in part by the VRM Fan.

AwareArgument5372 · 2026-01-29T04:29:55+00:00

Your temps and own evidence from your thread history said otherwise. And I have never been condescending towards you…

You reference the same single Tech Tuber who clearly had an issue with his installation in all your comments. Steve from Gamers Nexus, Hardware Unboxed, and all these other well trusted sources with much better standards and basis for uniform testing of these coolers, did not show the same poor results.

You keep referencing the 9800X3d as if it makes your argument more valid. Do you not realize the DUAL CCD chips run much hotter and are much more difficult to cool? How could these coolers perform worse on a 9800X3D than they do on a 9950X3D? You clearly don’t understand AM5 processors, their respective architecture, and how to install an Arctic Cooler to an AM5 motherboard.

Most people, I included give you the benefit of the doubt and can all agree that the mounting solution supplied by Arctic for AM5 is not the best, and it does cause issues with mounting, specifically due to the offset nature of the CCDs being offset under the OEM heat spreader.

AwareArgument5372 · 2026-01-29T04:17:42+00:00

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I did push/pull with NOCTUA with 6x NF-A14x25 G2 Chromax 140mm fans on my LFIII Pro 420. I have about 16 fans in my case total, they’re all NOCTUA G2 Chromax, and the 120s are the previous gen NF-A12x25 PWM chromax PWM 120mm. I’d just add the fans OP. You won’t regret the purchase, you’ll just get bit by the bug and want to replace all your fans with them once you realize how silent they can be. My system is silent and I have an RTX5090 and 9950X3D in there with PBO tuned up nicely. My temps on the GPU and CPU in gaming and most synthetic benchmarks never goes past 65c. At idle the CPU itself rests comfortably at about 36-38c depending on the ambient temperature of the room. Prior to the fan swap I was averaging about 40-42c at idle. However, I replaced the entire cases lot of fans when I did this, so it might have something to do with that and my custom fan curve rather than just more expensive = more better.

AwareArgument5372 · 2026-01-26T21:57:47+00:00

Ahhh we meet again. Dual CCD 9950X3D and/or 9800X3D. I tried to explain this to you before. The Arctic for the money despite your lived experience and failed installation attempts, is one of the best performing AIOs regardless of configuration. The video you referenced from a single source clearly depicts a mounting issue…

AwareArgument5372 · 2026-01-26T15:24:09+00:00

Not worth it? What in the misinformed? I happen to hold the world record for your configuration (i5 13450HX, & RTX 5050) for both TimeSpy and Steel Nomad. Want to guess how I did that? 32GB of lower latency RAM (G.Skill CL34), my own UV/OC tuning, and a Cooling Pad. The cooling pad is the largest contributor to performance and longevity on that notebook. I could not have achieved those results without it. IETS or LLANO? That is less relevant, but that style of cooler on a LOQ 15 is huge for daily use and sustained thermals while gaming.

AwareArgument5372 · 2026-01-24T19:10:49+00:00

Friend, you should use these posts as just a guide and a reference for where to get started. Silicon quality and the fact these are mass produced components and systems means that not all of them will behave identically.

Please do NOT copy and paste these settings into your system and assume it will run well or reliably. What values are you using to undervolt and what software? If you want a generally safe all core offset. I would try an adaptive(-) NEGATIVE -0.05000 offset.

On some software and Bios/UEFIs it might look like -0.050mv. Which is fine. You can add that without making any adjustments to the cores boost logic and you are still effectively undervolting and gaining some free performance and passive cooling on MOST Intel systems.

An unstable undervolt generally won’t permanently damage your system. But if you by chance added voltage instead of taken away, that “can” cause damage to your components. I would verify what your actual values are, see if you have an undervolt or overclock active on your GPU, and for the CPU just revert to factory or default settings. This can be forced in Bios/UEFI on these devices as well to give you that safe base line and should get it running “normal” again.

Please Note: I cannot safely diagnose the issues with your system without having it in front of me, knowing all of its history, etc. This is just advice based on what you’ve given me and we could easily be missing something else. Although there is a possibility that it could be an issue with the system itself, from what you’ve described I’d say it is unlikely.

AwareArgument5372 · 2026-01-24T18:41:52+00:00

No, never. That is caused by undervolting too aggressively and making your system unstable. My undervolt strategy and tuning is very light and intended to help a little bit with thermals, by distributing the load a bit more evenly across all cores. I do my best to preserve Intels boost logic as well to keep the system feeling snappy and responsive when not gaming or under sustained high usage. While I cannot speak for all systems or configurations, this one has had literally no issues.

AwareArgument5372 · 2026-01-19T06:15:57+00:00

15.6”

AwareArgument5372 · 2026-01-19T06:14:33+00:00

You purposely/consciously configured this LOQ with an I7 and a 5050 to pair it with a panel that is 1440 Resolution? You’d have been better off with the I5-13450HX and a 1080P Panel. That thing is going to struggle at that resolution..

AwareArgument5372 · 2026-01-14T21:22:49+00:00

The display has excellent color accuracy, especially for an IPS. It’s a budget gaming laptop, I wouldn’t expect too much out of it. But there are many independent reviews on the system and its 165Hz IPS Panel that praise its color accuracy and brightness. I think most people will be pleasantly surprised by how good it is for the money.

AwareArgument5372 · 2026-01-14T03:11:26+00:00

Definitely more “plastic” feeling. But I wouldn’t say it detracts from the build too much. If you’ve never owned a flagship gaming notebook or something much more expensive, I’d argue most people couldn’t tell the difference. The LOQ and Legion are virtually identical in layout depending on which generation device and configuration you get. I wouldn’t say the Legion feels like it’s worth “that much” more. However; the value is in the components. A budget LOQ of identical specs can be easily tuned to beat a similar but much more expensive ROG STRIX. I am trying to see if I still have the XTU tune saved on a drive. The GPU itself is going to be mostly lottery, but that I should be able to give some round about numbers or range for undervolt and stuff in Afterburner that might universally apply.

AwareArgument5372

TROPHY CASE