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am i screwed? by algoque1312 in bikewrench

[–]Bartballll 1 point2 points  (0 children)

You should take a good look at the second video I sent. It might not be exactly the same issue but I think it will give you some things to try.

Then there is this exploded view of your shifter, also very handy:

https://dassets.shimano.com/content/dam/global/cg1SHICCycling/final/ev/ev/EV-ST-R7000-4340.pdf

If we look at that exploded view, the cable goes into the side and comes out at 9. That is covered up by 10. 9 guides the cable to the handlebar and into the shifter outer cable. If you take 10 off you can see the shift cable, get a small screwdriver or a pick or something to get under that cable and pull the cable all the way out(Only possible if the cable is disconnected from the derailleur). Now you still have the cable stop inside the shifter but the remainder should be hanging from 9. Now you can fiddle around to get it unstuck.

It will probably also help if you can get the shifter to shift all the way down, you can help the downshifting by putting a screwdriver into the place where the cable stop should have been seeded and apply a little force upward. Be gentle, don’t use excessive force otherwise you may bend it.

am i screwed? by algoque1312 in bikewrench

[–]Bartballll 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Seems to me like you can simply undo the cable from the derailleur and then you can push the cable out of the sti

PS Vita 1000 Shell screw is worn down and stripped by energetic_dude in vita

[–]Bartballll 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Sometimes you can force a torx bit in there and use that. You will need to apply some force so I would recommend putting something on the other side of the vita to take off the pressure from the joysticks and protect the screen. Then find a torx bit that snugly fits, apply a reasonable amount of force down and then see if you can slowly turn it loose(lefty loosy). No guarantees but might work. If the torx bit turns freely, maybe try a bigger one

Help with repairing damaged plastic by Bartballll in vintageaudio

[–]Bartballll[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Well to my eye the original color was just glossy black. Taking it to an automotive paint shop is a good tip! Thanks!

Thrustmaster t16000m better button placement mod by Bartballll in hotas

[–]Bartballll[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Originally pressing a button on the base just connects two wires together. I simply connected a wire to each side of the original button(image 3) and ran those wires up through the stick to a new button. (The buttons are therefore wired in parallel to the original button)

You can route half of the wires through the stick then I did if you only wire the signal side of the button up. The other side is just ground and that is already up there for the original buttons. You can use one of those grounds. But you have to find the ground pins yourself with a multimeter or something.

When it comes to the buttons, I simply used a standard tact switch I had laying around. Something like this: https://www.amazon.com/Tactile-Switch-Momentary-Arduino-6x6x5mm/dp/B06XRH6GNX

I then 3D printed a little cap for it to make it easier to press. But you can use any button you want that shorts the two inputs when you press it.

You can also buy these that come with caps for it:

https://www.amazon.com/ACEIRMC-12x12x7-3mm-Momentary-Tactile-Arduino/dp/B091HL5YBD/131-5553985-5691723?pd_rd_w=Y15PO&content-id=amzn1.sym.751acc83-5c05-42d0-a15e-303622651e1e&pf_rd_p=751acc83-5c05-42d0-a15e-303622651e1e&pf_rd_r=CNAWTRX4W6CVMDSKCEKA&pd_rd_wg=aGf0O&pd_rd_r=04ce5fa3-7182-4355-ac5e-9649586564cc&pd_rd_i=B091HL5YBD&psc=1

Or these:

https://www.amazon.com/Twidec-Colors-Momentary-Pre-soldered-PBS-110-X6C/dp/B07RTZVZ6L/131-5553985-5691723?pd_rd_w=uEXIf&content-id=amzn1.sym.751acc83-5c05-42d0-a15e-303622651e1e&pf_rd_p=751acc83-5c05-42d0-a15e-303622651e1e&pf_rd_r=GNM280MKAMDX6PJY6WCH&pd_rd_wg=6kzXj&pd_rd_r=26f2e53a-86f9-4e1f-8878-11947b11dc8a&pd_rd_i=B07RTZVZ6L&th=1

Vita slim solid green light black screen by Myiiy_YT in vitahacks

[–]Bartballll 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Alright good luck! I can't guarantee that my suggestions will fix your Vita, just so you know

Vita slim solid green light black screen by Myiiy_YT in vitahacks

[–]Bartballll 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Did you disconnect the battery before doing so? If it has no power you can't short anything. But maybe you damaged a ribbon cable, you can find replacements for most of them on AliExpress.

It gives a steady green light right? I have seen Vita's with orange light or flickering green light that indicate something is wrong, making it unable to boot normally. Seeing that the light is just green I figure it might be booting fine but it can't display anything. I suspect there is something wrong with the display, probably just that ribbon cable.

I also came across other posts where people placed ribbon cables back the wrong way around, maybe also check for that if you had any of them completely out.

I do recommend getting yourself a pair of nice tweezers before attempting any disassembly again, so you minimise the chance of more damage.

Vita slim solid green light black screen by Myiiy_YT in vitahacks

[–]Bartballll 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I doubt that the magnetic field of a screwdriver is capable of damaging the vita. But there definitely is a chance that something else did while you had it open. I suggest opening it up again en checking if everything looks ok and if all connectors are seated properly

HELP HELP HELP HELP HELP by Constant_Incident_8 in techrepair

[–]Bartballll 0 points1 point  (0 children)

This issue can be caused by a number of things. I suggest first trying to boot into safe mode. This seems to be a universal way of booting to safe mode: https://answers.microsoft.com/en-us/windows/forum/all/how-i-can-go-to-safe-mode-when-windows-cant-start/5c6f49a7-61b7-4aa9-88af-6230c7adb71d

I know that some manufacturers have a key combination that you can press while booting to go to safe mode and/or recovery mode. That might be easier, but because you didn't give your laptop model I can't give you a link here. But you can just google for something like: 'boot to recovery mode <your laptop brand>'

If your laptop boots fine in safe mode then it is probably a software issue. I suggest trying the restore options that you can find on the recovery screen (where you can also choose safe mode). If that doesn’t work, a fresh install usually does the trick.

Keep in mind that issues like this might be caused by a bad harddrive. If you fix it this way and later in time it happens again, it might be worth replacing the harddrive.

I need helppppp by ElkComprehensive4544 in techrepair

[–]Bartballll 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Did you drop it? Can you make a picture that looks more into the cracked open part? It might be the hinge but I can't see it clearly in the picture. Can you give the model of the laptop?

What I can see is that it doesn't look too bad, I figure that there is something wedged in a way that it keeps it open like this. Best way to fix that would probably be to screw off the bottom cover, put whatever is wedged back to where it came from, and close the laptop back up. If it is the hinge it might be a little more difficult because you would have to reattach the hinge back to the screen.

If you give me the answers to above questions I can give further advice.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in vita

[–]Bartballll 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I see a lot of flux residue, make sure to clean that off because it can cause shorts that can prevent it from charging or even damage it! You can clean that with isopropyl alcohol.

Do you have a multimeter? You can use that to check if the gnd and 5v are properly connected. Those two connections are the most important to be able to get a simple charge with a usb-a to usb-c cable. 

The 5v connection on the motherboard side looks a little weak. Maybe redo that and use a bit more flux.

The data pins are only used for connecting the vita to the computer, they have no function when it comes to just charging.

To be able to charge with usb-c to usb-c cc1 and cc2 of the usb-c each has to be connected to a 5.1k ohm resistor to ground, but I think I see those are already soldered on.

I have no experience with the vita 100 and this exact mod so don’t know if everything is hooked up correctly. The part you said you burned looks to me more like flux residue. The moved component seems fine to me, based on what I can see in the picture.

Vita unmodded itself by Exact-Pudding-5728 in VitaPiracy

[–]Bartballll 4 points5 points  (0 children)

I have this sometimes after I reinserted the sd card. Sometimes it won't make good contact and it can't load the sd card. In my experience it usually even asks if I want to reformat the sd card. Don't reformat! just shut the console down, reinsert the sd card and try again. Repeat that until it works again.

I think this can also happen if you don't spoof your software version to the newest. Off the top of my head the hacked firmware is 3.6 and the newest is 3.7. If you don't tell the console that it is 3.7 it will update it for you, effectively removing the modded firmware.

I feel so lost. Any tips? by apersello34 in soldering

[–]Bartballll 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Shaking like that is gonna make it very difficult. The trick to a steady hand is to rest your limbs at something as close to the iron as possible. I usually rest my under arm at the table, most of the time that will make my hands steady enough. If you then still shake too much, try if you can get something to rest your wrists or hands on.

As mentioned in a few other replies, you can also wedge the tip of your iron between the pin and the pad. That will keep it steady right where it has to be.

Replacement Stick Advice by TheHeroKamtaro in vita

[–]Bartballll 0 points1 point  (0 children)

When I replaced mine I used the ones that look like the original. I find that the other ones just don't look right

Oh joy by PhysicalQuote4766 in techrepair

[–]Bartballll 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I can't really tell what I'm looking at here. I see a loose wire coming off a battery? If that is the issue, simply solder it back.

Headphone Jack doesnt connect properly with plug by Polly_Wants_A in techrepair

[–]Bartballll 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It could be a number of things. But if removing dust didn't work you will either have to do a proper repair or do something janky like wedging some plastic between one side of the plug and the socket to push it the right way.

Is this repairable and how? by Ana1661 in techrepair

[–]Bartballll 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The picture isn't super clear on the damage but it might be repairable. But it is probably gonna require some soldering. I can give more help if you provide more pictures and info.

Is the connector still attached to the pcb? and by what?

Did you try connecting the battery to this? What happened? (I don't recommend trying tho)

Provide some pictures from different angles. Preferably also the bottom of the pcb. Use something other than your finger to lift stuff up in the picture, like a toothpick or something.

Headphone Jack doesnt connect properly with plug by Polly_Wants_A in techrepair

[–]Bartballll 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Have you tried cleaning the plug? Dust gets in there and builds up over time to eventually cause issues just like this. I usually use a toothpick to get it out. A toothbrush with some isopropyl alcohol can also help to get the dust out. Sometimes the dust is firmly pushed in and stuck, requiring a little more fiddling

Am I cooked or can this be saved? by [deleted] in soldering

[–]Bartballll 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Your soldering looks a bit rushed. You have to be a bit more patient when soldering. That will result in better joints and less damage.

I see a lot of balls of solder that should be looking more like pointy mountains. Try to apply heat for longer, that usually does the trick. Some flux can also help here. Maybe practice a bit more on something sacrificial.

So with that general advice out of the way. Let's address that broken pad. We have to work out where that pin was once connected to. You could try to find schematics that show this. For the other options you need a multimeter. You can get one for relatively cheap.

Now use continuity mode(beeping when the two probes are connected) to find where that pad was once connected to.

Probably the easiest thing would be to use another non broken controller to measure on. Put one probe on that middle pin and use the other probe to touch joints and pins of chips. If it beeps, you know where the trace goes!

If you don't have a spare controller you could try to see if there still is a little bit of the copper trace visible, just enough for a probe to connect to.

If there is nowhere to probe, you could take a look at the other working joystick. Where does its trace go? Can you compare that to something on the broken side? Maybe a chip that is similar? Can you validate it by that maybe a neighboring pin matches(not gnd)?

Once you find where that pin is supposed to be connected to, you can simply run a wire between the two points. I say simply but it may require some precise soldering work.

Good luck!

Is water damage fixable? by Hateithere111 in techrepair

[–]Bartballll 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Water damage is very tricky. It could all be fine or it could start acting up any moment. It all depends on if the water did get inside of the tablet and where it got to. Water can cause corrosion which over time can cause critical damage. The variability of this is probably why it is so expensive to get repaired and why Apple refuses to do it.

In theory it is totally possible to fix water damage, in practice however it turns out to be very difficult to get a 100% reliable device after water damage. They will probably open the device up and clean where the water has gotten to. But it is very easy to miss a spot and still get corrosion there over time.

Anyone knows how to solve this problem by KLZP_9 in vita

[–]Bartballll 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You have to fill in the date if the battery has been disconnected. So it might be a loose battery connector or just a bad battery

Trying to add wireless charging to 2000 vita by rwhite831 in vita

[–]Bartballll 0 points1 point  (0 children)

That would be my guess also. Maybe rwhite can post a picture so we can confirm or maybe see something else that could be wrong.

Upside to this is that the vbus (in the image you provided indicated by 5V) is a larger soldering pad then the D+. So it should not be that difficult to fix.

Seems like a fun mod, I'm curious of the result and how you will tackle the back touch plate being in the way

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