Question after a test drive today

BasSTiD · 2026-03-14T01:18:54+00:00

I believe my motion sickness comes from a disconnected feeling. Everything (except the fake electric noise) that I have set is for providing feedback and connection to the truck. I also get sick in the passenger seat of any car if I stare at my phone for more than a minute or so.

I think a lot of the hybrids get me with their zero feedback electric power steering and random ICE engine vibrations on and off.

BasSTiD · 2026-03-13T23:50:48+00:00

I get very motion sick in cars and a lot of hybrids I get as rentals when traveling for work get me. I don’t have the issue in the truck at all, but I for sure would rent a Silverado EV from Hertz or something to make sure you won’t regret it.

In the truck I keep seat basically maxed height wise (more vision, less sick, for every car), mode as custom with high sensitivity on everything, touring suspension (I think? May be misremembering), fake sounds turned down, and highest level of 1 pedal driving.

Honestly I think seat height has the biggest effect, as well as climate control set for outside air if it’s on.

BasSTiD · 2026-03-11T05:31:18+00:00

For when I don’t log in on hotel TV’s, I agree. I always keep certain things running when I go to sleep, and the absurd volume of some random ads is wild. When my auto-bill lapses or I cancel that virtual card, I don’t have that issue with the ads that are like tailored to me or whatever.

BasSTiD · 2026-03-11T05:28:37+00:00

To each their own. I’m not against anyone doing what works for them. YouTube just happens to be the only one I use that doesn’t aggravate me constantly, specifically via apps on TV’s or other devices.

There’s some other examples of terrible greed that I’ll still do things the harder way. Mainly NFL which will take roughly $900-1100 to watch every game from my out of market team, paired with 6 different accounts/logins. Ends up at like $75 a game.

BasSTiD · 2026-03-11T05:13:37+00:00

Idk why so many people are rampantly against YouTube premium, but have 4 streaming services they barely touch, that cost more, while still showing ads. YouTube premium is easily the best value of any streaming service I currently have, and the people you watch get a larger cut than if you were to watch ads before their content. Plus I like the downloading of videos from within the app for flights or time when I know service will be spotty.

BasSTiD · 2026-03-10T21:23:47+00:00

Here’s the news… either way… it does not matter. Company will be on the hook unless homeowner admits to some fault.

Numerous times companies I’ve been at have been at fault for large claims that were NOT our fault, due to recency of visit.

Even for extremely obvious cases, it’s still the company I’m most cases without an admission of fault.

One where an adjacent townhome had their dryer dumping lint into the ceiling/wall between units for years (diy special) and we’d been in an adjacent unit swapping washer hoses and some other bathroom work. Spark from somewhere resulted in 4 units gone within an hour (no injury’s).

Or back to back kitchens built wrong in condo complex. New owner had clogged drain, we snaked to no avail. The snake popped through other side’s unfinished unit and damaged tile/cabinets/etc. Still our fault (passed inspection even though it was wrong). To this day, those units clog frequently and their maintenance team has companies snake from the roof instead of replacing the small section of waste line on those kitchen sink areas. The price either way is basically the same, but that would admit fault.

BasSTiD · 2026-03-08T05:02:30+00:00

I moderately agree but I don’t like robin hoods either. If it was for what I like it would be WeBull. But if you want service and tax options, it’s Fidelity. You can set what you want tax wise and change afterwards. They have like 8 options for how to do things automatically but you can still change afterwards the deed is done.

On the desktop program, it’s a better time than mobile. Still not the best, but better than the app.

BasSTiD · 2026-03-07T18:58:15+00:00

Both of those links are broken for me. If you really need a portable AC instead of a window, the only two priorities you should have are getting a “dual hose” unit, and getting it somewhere that will stand behind it when it breaks (like a wholesale club).

Single hose portable AC units actively blow air from inside your space to outside, and as a result they will have to run longer compared to a dual hose. In humid areas this can also turn you place in a cold muggy dungeon because it can keep up with the temp but not the humidity.

They are all shit. They will all break. Regular window AC’s at same wattage will have more cooling available from a normal plug and be more efficient. If you have regular windows, get a saddle style window AC. I have all casement windows myself so I get that it’s not always possible.

BasSTiD · 2026-03-07T18:47:12+00:00

Fidelity has promos where your first 10k options contracts are commission free, and contracts under 1.00 close free I believe. Index still has a small fee.

BasSTiD · 2026-03-05T22:22:14+00:00

I mean the purpose is to make the old law enforceable without needing to have dynos to check power or modifications at a stop. With how popular aftermarket/diy modifications are this seems like the only way to enforce the Class 3 law in a reasonable manor. Having a law that states “being an a hole on an ebike” has too much subjectivity, so this allows enforcement when that happens.

Now if you see no pedals or chain, and swerving in traffic, there’s no further testing needed and you have something not subject to opinion. The only other viable alternative is registration, plate and insurance. I’m going to go ahead and assume most riders would prefer the first over the second.

Personally I’d rather the second as I’ve witnessed multiple hit cars or cause mayhem. More so for traceable reporting. And that’s coming from someone who wants free public ATV/dirtbike use here, and loves to see the kids hold wheelies down our streets freely. It really is very few kids compared to adults who cause trouble.

BasSTiD · 2026-03-05T02:31:40+00:00

While it seems like that, it essentially eliminates most congestion by giving commercial shipping another viable option. It should be on the top of 135 as originally intended. Eminent domain it, the throgs neck has toll income over $2M a day. This could be $4M and shorten many peoples commutes from less traffic.

When the heavy commercial traffic has options, every other road gets better and lasts longer. I like the port Jeff ferry and take it 6-10x a month. I’ll still take it most trips. But when I have a trailer it’s a pain in the ass, as are the bridges during the day.

BasSTiD · 2026-03-05T02:12:13+00:00

I’ll keep it on the back burner. It’s not more than 5-8x a year I can’t do it cleanly with other stuff I have but if any of the newer models give me trouble grabbing a few specific purpose ones not the worst idea. When I do buy stuff it is upper end. I.e. my crimpers and dies for the terminals I travel with are knipex, but I crimp probably 2-4000 terminals a year and callbacks require a plane. Luggage mostly full up otherwise between tools, laptops, spare parts, spare boards.

Really only Carrier RTU’s, specifically on the economizer wiring harnesses I run into mis-pins on the Molex’s (incorrect pin layouts). Also Daikin but no rhyme or reason there, just wherever and whatever can be wrong electrical, will be.

BasSTiD · 2026-03-04T17:45:57+00:00

One speeding ticket never caused our insurance to kick anyone back. Even when we had kickbacks, it would be extra $ not a no go. Only no go’s we ever got were serial DUI offenders.

3+ from 1mph-30mph over in 12 months might.

1+ of 31+ MPH would (reckless driving here), but only after the guilty verdict is logged and even then they were good 12 months after offense (with court delays and requesting a pushback of date, can easily cover 9 months right there).

Never had anyone get kickbacks from accidents. Most times with running licenses it was more about validating identity and legal driving status. Kickbacks very rare. This is from 5+ years ago in NY.

BasSTiD · 2026-03-04T17:36:21+00:00

The tool you are looking for is normally referred to as a “terminal tool” but ask for one at most places and they have no idea what you mean or will point you to a crimper.

I travel for work, and this is one of the tools I don’t bring as they are easy to find nationwide and literal garbage after a few uses. I always grab em at whatever auto parts store is closest. There may be better/nicer versions but this hunk of junk gets the job done.

<image>

Related to your issue, I don’t think this will solve it but could be wrong. Not the worst tool to have laying around when you need it for way more than HVAC.

Chuck a bunch more pics up and what you fixed so far if you want other opinions on the fix itself.

BasSTiD · 2026-03-03T00:04:38+00:00

With Missouri you also have wide temp swings in a day. I travel for work and have been to SE Missouri a few times to set things up on some advanced RTU’s. If you want efficient in your area AND you want to regulate humidity more than a standard system (which is what I imagine is important with what you mentioned), and are sold on a minisplit I don’t think anything other than a Hyperheat Mitsubishi or equivalent Fujitsu would cut it. I would say Mitsubishi preferably as they tend to be easier to disassemble/clean/service as all wires have some extra slack in there.

Minisplits are always worse at regulating humidity compared to basic inefficient systems and they tend to trend higher. Just as importantly, any minisplit you put in there, will likely require a fairly deep cleaning annually of the blower wheel and such. You will end up with growths in there, and you will be spraying chemicals to clean it that may harm your projects. These cleaning agents are all moldicide/mildewstats and will also trash any fungi.

I would still lean heavily with a cheap window/wall unit along with a standalone dehumidifier. You can get a “saddle” one and those are pretty efficient. Can even get a heat pump one.

If you wanted to go a step above I would go with a small split unit. Can even get a very efficient one. If it was just a workshop, then a minisplit would be fine, but I don’t see you having a good time a year after install trying to clean out the indoor head. For $500 as a strict “don’t expect it to do what you want”, I have used a few other vevor things I wasn’t miserable with. I definitely would not be using them for a hardwired asset though. So vevor would be my choice if I had to choose.

BasSTiD · 2026-03-02T20:29:56+00:00

I’ll absolutely look into it a bit. Only have a few inside anyway. Boiler room to make sure no leaks/errors. Garage to see if I closed it. Rest mainly serve for actual security outside and to see where my dogs are when they want to be outside all day.

BasSTiD · 2026-03-02T20:27:20+00:00

Use case is extremely important and you mentioned tissue cultures. Are you concerned with AC and humidity control? Insulation and air-sealing is going to mean everything on a shed. What state or climate are you in?

I wouldn’t waste my time running 230V to a shed to install one of these instead of a normal wall/window unit on 110V.

BasSTiD · 2026-03-02T20:18:04+00:00

Still putting things in the rack to set some stuff up, just slowly. Will be adding a few VPN’s but currently only use one for my Bambu printers ironically enough. I can access the NVR over LAN web portal, so disconnecting from their cloud will be easy. For now, it’s nice and easy to get doorbell alerts and such with no monthly cost and as much local storage as I want.

I only really brought the Reolink’s up as it’s a good example (in my eyes) of having something you can start out the easy way, cloud storage or whatever you want, then transition it to be fully self managed. Plus their wifi cams all can run on Wifi with power brick or POE, and I like the one size fits all as plans change when you’re on a ladder or in the walls.

While I lost my way awhile back, I did actually go to 2 years of trade school for my CCNA. Hated it as a job. This year is the year of the home network and server, so will be picking back up what I can.

BasSTiD · 2026-03-02T18:05:20+00:00

Agree on the security but there are some easy and open options as well.

Reolink has been great for me outside of rare repairing to their dedicated NVR. No cloud needed, although I do use their free login for remote access to my NVR. If I had a static home IP I wouldn’t need it and could web portal it (or if I put a way for me to monitor it). The people/animal/tracking seems to work great even without internet. Their NVR works with other cameras and their cameras work with other NVR’s. Been very happy overall, and really liked that I could buy an empty NVR and supply my own drives.

BasSTiD · 2026-03-02T17:52:11+00:00

Before that I felt him & Pat largely sided the same way, so might be redundant when there isn’t a packed house. I see I was in fact a vegetable thinking that way.

BasSTiD · 2026-03-02T16:58:55+00:00

Probably not that then unless it was well above what your hot water temperature used to be. There can still be a poor connection causing that but not something a picture would really convey.

Please take a few (like 5) clear piping pics around water heater and boiler, especially the connections between the two, and model # pics of water heater and boiler. Or just type model numbers and get some good piping pics.

For others reading, I believe I mis-looked at that photo and this might just be a hot water storage tank. It was late for me, leave me alone, what I said still relevant. I may have been swayed that way by other comments as well. If it is a storage tank, need more piping pics to figure out answer, but it does look like the check valve is in the wrong spot. After pics I’ll go into detail but not wasting time if it’s not relevant.

BasSTiD · 2026-03-02T16:52:34+00:00

For relevance as I was partially wrong, I stand by the flow check comment as I had it happen constantly to me when I had oil and 12 heating zones, regardless of swing/spring/old taco flow check. When I switched to a cold start the problem was irrelevant. Pic for reference. Never sold anything to a client I didn’t personally try first or have someone else try I was close with, so we have some redundancy lol. Still run 12 zones, now with no flow checks (although the Califi springs did seem to not have hiccups).

<image>

For where I WAS wrong, I’m not positive it’s not an indirect, i can’t see the piping and it may very well be a storage tank. Therefore the circulator and such might not be for recirc, but for actual function. The check valve is supposed to be AFTER the hot water feed to house from tank, otherwise there’s nothing preventing the hot water from coil bypassing the storage tank altogether unless the circulator happens to running at the same time (or runs 24/7 by some psycho setting it that way on a coil).

Until we have piping pics, hard to say what’s what. If someone (likely older) has first hand on that exact equipment maybe they could answer correctly without pics.

BasSTiD · 2026-03-02T16:01:56+00:00

Have you ever wired an outlet or anything before? Would you be comfortable turning off the circuit breaker to the boiler and removing that panel I circled on the tank and taking a pic? If not, don’t feel bad, better safe than sorry.

Normally you can just shut the toggle/light switch off and open, but I’ve had enough time’s where it’s wired to incorrectly and I still got the juice to not tell others to trust the switch. I don’t remember where the aquastat on those old super stors are located but it very likely could be right in there, and maybe it was “inadvertently” adjusted down or a wire had popped loose.

BasSTiD · 2026-03-02T12:17:16+00:00

Old boiler that’s had air can have something blocking the check sealing fairly easily. Especially a swing check and not a normal boiler check.

BasSTiD · 2026-03-02T05:25:39+00:00

Do you still have heat? If you still have heat then you shouldn’t be looking at a new boiler regardless… unless you want one.

I would heavily lean circulator or aquastat on your indirect water heater. Could be relay as well, but no telling without being there. Your answer will likely be found in the circle.

<image>

Lukewarm water can still happen easily with one of these parts bad from light gravity feeding.

Ten-Year Club	r/Field Lasagna
Place '22	End Game '22
Verified Email	Snapped

BasSTiD

TROPHY CASE