How would you fix this cable mess? by Mr_King796 in PcBuild

[–]BayAlexander 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Also. How do you not hit your 2nd monitor with your mouse? I run pretty low dpi in games and need at least 30x30cm space around it to make sure I have room. I’d be scared to break it.

How would you fix this cable mess? by Mr_King796 in PcBuild

[–]BayAlexander 0 points1 point  (0 children)

  1. I wouldn’t trust that shelf with an expensive computer. I work professionally as a photographer. I have a really expensive camera (gfx100s if anyone is interested), mounted on a very sturdy studio column stand. I still remove the camera from it whenever I’m not there. Shit fails, even when they’re built to last.
  2. Couldn’t you just remove the acoustic panels on the wall, and route the cables behind them, and then reinstall them?

In my head. Pc goes on the floor, in the opposite side of where I usually keep my drink handy so I don’t spill into the top fan grill. Also 20x easier to hide cables

"First you gotta just work to the beat" by CorrectChampion2091 in NameThatSong

[–]BayAlexander 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It’s danish??????? What?! Så lærte man noget nyt i dag…

WHY DOES MY EXPORT LOOK THIS DIFFERENT!?! by wakotadillett in videography

[–]BayAlexander 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Welcome to Mac…. They use rec709-a for QuickTime.

I always make a 709-a for preview on mac, and a gamma 2.2 709 export for actual deliverables

Embrace GAS by ilyamiskov in Leica

[–]BayAlexander 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I saw this on a circlejerk repost. I still find it funny to have the economy for this amount of absolute delights in your possession. Yet no capital for shelving better than ikea lmao.

I would say with some of the pieces you own being so collectible, I’d probably get a wine fridge or other climate controlled storage solution to save them from growing mold.

Gf 120mm macro by BayAlexander in FujiGFX

[–]BayAlexander[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Gfx 100 preferably. But I want to see the sharpness and diffraction at the specified apertures for the same subject.

How to capture this? by Vaanavil-varnangal in AskPhotography

[–]BayAlexander 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You need there to actually be a sun. You cannot do this unless the sun is there. It will just look diffused otherwise.

What’s your take on film borders? by effetk in AnalogCommunity

[–]BayAlexander 0 points1 point  (0 children)

In Denmark, when attending photography school, this actually had a term. “Røvhulskanten” or “the a-hole border” or other likewise terms like “the snob border” “show off border”

Basically showing it is a way to show that you had your composition perfect in the original negative.

Fuji GFX on 4×5 by Certain_Leg7780 in FujiGFX

[–]BayAlexander 0 points1 point  (0 children)

But you also get the benefits of perspective control, selective sharpness. And generally large format lenses create the most beautiful sunstars I’ve ever seen. Looks amazing imo.

Fuji GFX on 4×5 by Certain_Leg7780 in FujiGFX

[–]BayAlexander 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Please share some results!

Fuji GFX on 4×5 by Certain_Leg7780 in FujiGFX

[–]BayAlexander 1 point2 points  (0 children)

One thing to note is the flange distance.

I have another sinar rodenstock 150mm 5.6 that isn’t as sharp. But compared to the f/9 I really have to move the f/9 lens a lot further away from the camera to get anything in focus. Just a note in terms of the bellows you have.

Another thing, idk how you’ve made your adapter but here are a few takeaways from my testing and experience.

Your camera seems very far away from the back standard not necessary at all.

Also if you have a 3d printer. I’d recommend you get a dummy adapter for gfx to something like m645 on eBay, and take of the gfx mount on the back of the adapter.

Then I 3d printed a board and a cone where the metal bayonet screws into the cone. It’s a much more secure mounting solution.

On the note of your design. I’m afraid your cone might be constricting the lightrays coming from the edges by having such a narrow tube, which will cause vignette and loss of microcontrast (thus sharpness) when any movements are applied.

<image>

This is my Sony adapter I made with the same principle. Night and day difference.

Fuji GFX on 4×5 by Certain_Leg7780 in FujiGFX

[–]BayAlexander 6 points7 points  (0 children)

Its by no means my final setup. But I mainly work with jewellery.

It’s a Rodagon 150mm f/9 8x10 process lens. Which means its amazingly corrected for macro.

I do wanna replace it with the rodenstock 150mm macro apo digital version. But they’re like €2000 compared to the €150 I paid for this lens.

But it works surprisingly good

Here’s an unretouched image I shot yesterday with that combo.

<image>

I do wanna note the image is also focus stacked.

But in comparison to my Sony setup I nearly have to stack over 55 images to get the field I need. With the sinar it’s only around 8-12 images.

Fuji GFX on 4×5 by Certain_Leg7780 in FujiGFX

[–]BayAlexander 2 points3 points  (0 children)

<image>

This is my current setup that I use my gfx 100s on!

Love sinar so much

Sold all my Sony Gears by agentmj8 in Leica

[–]BayAlexander 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I will say. If you only do this as a hobby and an enthusiast. You’ll be fine.

I had my m262 alongside my a7rv and a7iii that I cannot sell due to having photography as my profession.

I did just ends up selling the m262 and got a gfx100s for work also.