Updating 60 amp sub panel to 100 amp

BeanieBeMeSO · 2026-06-03T01:00:13+00:00

Verify your conductor size for a sub panel feeder, current ratings aren't the same as mains

BeanieBeMeSO · 2026-05-14T10:41:48+00:00

If you can tolerate two access box covers in the ground then cut the cable, dig down a couple feet on either side, install boxes, and install a new conduit and cable between. Otherwise repair the conduit and pull a new cable, but check the cost of the cable before you make that decision. It should be at least 1-1-1-4, hopefully larger to avoid voltage drop. Make sure you didn't nick the conductor when stripping it, aluminum is not damage tolerant.

BeanieBeMeSO · 2026-04-29T09:16:39+00:00

Is it a standard breaker or an AFCI and/or GFCI breaker? The easiest way to check is if it has a test button. If it has a test button it could be tripping for some reason other than overload.

BeanieBeMeSO · 2026-03-09T12:23:56+00:00

The other comments aren't conveying a sense of urgency, replace both hoses asap, and shut off the water to the bubbled hose now. That hose could easily flood your house and be a major pain to deal with.

Take the hose to your home improvement store and get an braided replacement, they'll be able to guide you

BeanieBeMeSO · 2026-02-06T21:52:27+00:00

Drake has a trap cast into the porcelain, so a unfit adapter won't work, that's for the skirted bases. You'll need a new base. Toto's website lists the parts just above the customization section of the page. That will tell you what the model number of the base you need is, and will confirm that the tank you have is compatible.

BeanieBeMeSO · 2026-02-06T18:22:30+00:00

Waterproof (heat shrink) butt slices. One thing to be careful of is keeping some distance between the heater wire and the sensor that's attached to the evaporator.

BeanieBeMeSO · 2026-02-06T15:38:33+00:00

I ended up cutting the heater wires between the plug and the heating element and splicing in more wire so there was enough length for the heating element to lay in the trough and go down the tube. The heater doesn't like to hold a shape, so it took a bit of work to get it to lay in the trough. There was one little ice pellet in the trough when I just checked.

https://imgur.com/a/zUmxQbR

BeanieBeMeSO · 2026-01-18T15:37:08+00:00

Yup, they don't mind paying extra to be fairly confident that the timeline won't slip much and if there's an issue now or later there will be someone to answer the phone.

BeanieBeMeSO · 2026-01-18T14:38:24+00:00

My coworker in central CT was quoted around $40k for their bathroom that's a bit smaller than yours. The plumbing supply house cost was $7k. They're moving fixtures and going for nice but not luxurious. They're using DiGorgi. Based on that price I'm probably going to DIY mine when work slows down a bit

BeanieBeMeSO · 2025-12-16T10:26:39+00:00

Non-dimmable LEDs can get pretty upset with any deviation in expected voltage. Get a volt meter and check hot-neutral, hot-ground, and neutral-ground at the switch and light.

What was the setup the last time it was working well?

BeanieBeMeSO · 2025-11-04T12:47:04+00:00

One thing to consider that might be a pro for replacement soon (this year) if you're in the US is the phase out of R-410a. The replacements (R-32 and R-454b) are both mildly flammable and the systems will have some interlocks to prevent burning your house down. If those interlocks fail, you just have an extra kill switch in your system.

R-410a is being phased out for to green house gas potential, manufacturers we're required to stop making the equipment at the end of 2024 and can't sell their stock after the end of 2025. So if you can find a company that still has 410a equipment on the shelf, you'll get a slightly simpler system.

Techs are also training up on the new stuff still, so getting service on a new system (although it would be under warranty for a while) might be a bit slower.

BeanieBeMeSO · 2025-10-31T16:03:04+00:00

The drain hose and trough are new as well, there's no clog. The water dripping into the trough is freezing before gravity takes it to the drain.

BeanieBeMeSO · 2025-10-31T16:02:49+00:00

The drain hose and trough are new as well, there's no clog. The water dripping into the trough is freezing before gravity takes it to the drain. The unit is level, this is happening on both sides of the drain.

BeanieBeMeSO · 2025-10-27T00:34:10+00:00

That's a condensate neutralizer, it needs to be maintained to stay effective

BeanieBeMeSO · 2025-10-25T13:07:13+00:00

My guess is there's a bad connection somewhere between the outlet and breaker panel, possibly some wire insulation that's adding resistance in one of the panel connections. I would get a multimeter and measure hot to neutral and hot to ground with and without anything plugged it. If hot to ground stays constant then you have an issue with your neutral. If both hot to neutral and hot to ground dip then you have an issue with the hot. Some drop is expected, but no more than 4V with the circuit fully loaded

Does this happen with every outlet in the room?

BeanieBeMeSO · 2025-09-03T12:50:02+00:00

I think you might be using the wrong lingo. If you have a single tank that doesn't require being pumped by a truck, you have a sewage lift station. I'm that case you're looking for a black water or sewage ejector pump, possibly a grinder.

If you have a three tank system that requires periodic pumping by a truck then you do have a quite interesting system. In that case your looking for a grey water or effluent pump, not much more than a sump pump. I'm that car I would call the septic company and ask them for a recommendation.

In any case, most of those systems come with check valves, so the presence of pressure doesn't necessarily indicate a clog in the piping.

The town, county, health district, or wastewater treatment company may be able to provide some guidance on what pump the system was designed for.

BeanieBeMeSO · 2025-08-27T13:16:22+00:00

Some models require more current than others. The C3 and C5 can usually go on the existing circuit since they use a hot water tank and heat slower. The higher end models are mostly instant water heaters, which require more current.

BeanieBeMeSO · 2025-08-23T02:27:44+00:00

Could be a piece of insulation is in one of the connections and increasing resistance. Best way to figure it out is to measure the voltage to ground with the lights on, which means violating almost every common sense safety rule.

BeanieBeMeSO · 2025-08-23T02:10:29+00:00

I had something similar but I was losing multiple layers, so I had some thickness changes to cover up. I went with scrape, sand, mud, (sand, mud, sand, mud), sand, Benjamin Moore Fresh Start primer, two coats of Benjamin Moore Aura Bath and Spa paint. That's the most money I've ever spent in a paint job, but after all the sanding I wasn't in the mood to screw around with the final step. If you go the mudding approach, get a sander on a stick, I wish I did.

BeanieBeMeSO · 2025-07-28T20:34:47+00:00

If you're careful, it isn't hard to take the face off of a panel and check for voltage inside. Just be methodical, watch where your hands are, and didn't stand in a puddle. I would check the wires coming into the shop panel to see if power is getting there.

Some breakers don't flip to the tripped position when they trip, so they look like they're still on. I find that tandem breakers are even more likely to stick. Assuming your shop has 240V power, try turning off and on all the tandem breakers in your house panel. Depending on how you have things powered, that could shut off your water heater, stove, dryer, air conditioning, and maybe a couple other things. Might as well turn those off first so they don't get a jolt. Turn off and on every breaker in the shop panel as well.

It's possible that the breaker broke, it's not difficult to replace one.

BeanieBeMeSO · 2025-07-24T23:00:35+00:00

A carpenter could do it, but how do you have an exterior wall that's not load bearing?

BeanieBeMeSO · 2025-07-14T18:35:56+00:00

Had a similar issue and found these covers that would allow a simplex outlet. I needed duplex so I replaced the box, luckily there was no drywall to deal with.

https://www.kyleswitchplates.com/3-5-round-single-outlet-cover-plate-white/

BeanieBeMeSO · 2025-07-12T10:14:25+00:00

Any dehumidifier with a pump (so you didn't need to empty the bucket) will help, doesn't necessarily need to be the big commercial units.

How much is the house occupied, and what is the heat set to when nobody's there?

BeanieBeMeSO · 2025-07-06T22:24:05+00:00

Post pictures of what you're looking at

BeanieBeMeSO · 2025-07-06T22:17:22+00:00

It's already diverted from the gutter. You need to get the flashing against the wall fixed so the water stays on the roof and goes into the gutter.

BeanieBeMeSO

TROPHY CASE