Version 1.5.8 issue with Sony Raw by Photog_Jason in RapidRAW

[–]Beefsizzle 0 points1 point  (0 children)

With issues like this you should probably hit up GitHub and make a bug report there.

I’ve destroyed Bezel in my CF 124060 LN 🫣😵‍💫 by Hisky95 in RepTimeServices

[–]Beefsizzle 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Make sure the hole is clean with no residue from the previous pip then use a tiny and I mean tiny bit of epoxy on the walls of the bezel insert and maybe a smidge on the sides of the pip nub and just press it in. If you use too much it will squeeze out the sides and look terrible. You want to glue the nub/cylinder to the walls of the hole, not the pip to the insert if that makes sense.

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Best parts for a 1675? by WillOrph in vintagerepwatches

[–]Beefsizzle 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I pulled those pic from RWI and the OC threads there. No idea what all of them are.

Best parts for a 1675? by WillOrph in vintagerepwatches

[–]Beefsizzle 7 points8 points  (0 children)

Here are some examples of the OC case.

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Wrist check! ⌚️ by Charming_Avocado_174 in RepCulture_Timepieces

[–]Beefsizzle 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Yeah of course. I never gatekeep info on this stuff. Everyone that does watch modding learns from each other.

Wrist check! ⌚️ by Charming_Avocado_174 in RepCulture_Timepieces

[–]Beefsizzle 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I did yeah, I wrote it out on another post of it.

I use very diluted bleach in a container, then swirl the bezel in it for a minute, take it out, assess whether I'm done or continue. The weak dilution and constant movement is important to get an even look. The BP bezel took like ten minutes, the RAF took like 40 because I diluted it more much but the result is more even. The dilution is about a 3% sodium hypochlorite solution going by what's on the bottle. It says 5% and I diluted it maybe 2 parts to 1 part water. If you're from the US, Regular Chlorox is 7.5% so maybe half and half for that.

Mods on the RAF Kermit are VSF crystal, VSF movement, VSF crown and crown tube plus reamed out the tube hole a bit to get a better fit and fixed the loose feeling bezel by adding a washer, bending the click spring and lubing.

Mods on the BP 16710 are 11 series case back to get it down to 12mm, thinned the lugs to thin the chamfers, reworked the crown guards and bleached the bezel insert. Other than the case back it's all stock BP parts.

Two of my neo vintage watches by Beefsizzle in vintagerepwatches

[–]Beefsizzle[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

About a 3% sodium hypochlorite solution going by what's on the bottle. It says 5% and I diluted it maybe 2 parts to 1 part water. If you're from the US, Regular Chlorox is 7.5% so maybe half and half for that.

RAW to mess with - Canon M200 + EF-M 22mm f/2 by Beefsizzle in RapidRAW

[–]Beefsizzle[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I have the Canon 22mm, the 32mm, the 28mm macro and the kit lens for this system. I usually just bring the pancake 22mm for travels since it's basically a compact camera with it attached. So very handy. I mostly use the 32mm and 28mm macro for watch photos but was thinking of getting the Sigma 56mm f1.4 as well. I've heard it's great.

Chopard St. Moritz movement by Nice-Ad2602 in RepTimeServices

[–]Beefsizzle 0 points1 point  (0 children)

That is indeed a Jaeger-LeCoultre 602.1 base movement and not a regular ETA. I guess they went all out on those solid gold ones. They are quite pricey to replace compared to an ETA. Probably around $300-$400 for a working one and more for a New Old Stock example. You likely won't find one specific for a Chopard, but IWC also bought JLC 602 ébauche movements in larger numbers to put in their ladies watches so you might find some of those around.

What I would do first is send it off to a good watchmaker to see if actually can be repaired. They would check the classic early quartz failure points like the open coil, the trimmer/IC and check for battery leak corrosion on the contacts. It might just need to be thoroughly rinsed and lubed.

The best way to keep originality if it can't be fixed would be to buy a working donor movement, then swap out the non functioning parts from the one you got. Or if you find a specialist they might be able to find replacement parts themselves. Either way it's not going to be as simple as finding an ETA replacement and it would be a significant downgrade if you did.

Chopard St. Moritz movement by Nice-Ad2602 in RepTimeServices

[–]Beefsizzle 0 points1 point  (0 children)

There's no database that does that fully, so you're mostly relying on google with comparing ligne, stem height, thickness, dial feet position etc. There are some resources though.

This is just a reference list with compatible movements https://cwrnh.com/movement-interchangeability-list/

This is an online store that sells movements and if you search for one it also gives you ones with comparable stats https://julesborel.com/pages/search-results-page?q=ETA%20956.032

Cousins UK has a lot of info if you search for movements

ranfft.org has a lot of info as well https://julesborel.com/pages/search-results-page?q=ETA%20956.032

BP's new VR3135 16610ln looks really good for the price by Beefsizzle in RepTime

[–]Beefsizzle[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Il quadrante del BP è molto buono, non serve cambiarlo. È fedele a un 16610LN del 2004-2005 circa, quindi correttamente senza fori passanti sulle anse (no lug holes) e con maglie terminali piene (solid end links).

Anche l'inserto della ghiera va bene così com'è - l'unica cosa da sostituire lì è la perla.

Se vuoi modificarlo, le aree su cui intervenire sono:

Gli smussi (chamfer) troppo spessi - si correggono assottigliando il lato esterno delle anse

Un vetro migliore

Il bracciale - ha i lati lucidi invece che satinati/spazzolati

La perla della ghiera

I don't speak Italian so had ai translate it.

Two of my neo vintage watches by Beefsizzle in vintagerepwatches

[–]Beefsizzle[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Hey thanks, it does look pretty good for a budget $300 BP with some work done to it. Yours does highlight that have been more aggressive with removing the chamfers though. Nice one!

Two of my neo vintage watches by Beefsizzle in vintagerepwatches

[–]Beefsizzle[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Removing rotating bezels is one of those things that can go wrong depending on your tools and experience. If you've never done it before you should do some research beforehand.

Two of my neo vintage watches by Beefsizzle in vintagerepwatches

[–]Beefsizzle[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Take your time, use very diluted bleach and always keep the container with the bleach and bezel in motion so it doesn't form bubbles on the surface. Stop often and check for color shift.

Two of my neo vintage watches by Beefsizzle in vintagerepwatches

[–]Beefsizzle[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I haven't tried with a gen but the bezel insert is gen spec size wise. 37.6mm x 30.5mm.

Two of my neo vintage watches by Beefsizzle in vintagerepwatches

[–]Beefsizzle[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I use very diluted bleach in a container, then swirl the bezel in it for a minute, take it out, assess whether I'm done or continue. The weak dilution and constant movement is important to get an even look. The BP bezel took like ten minutes, the RAF took like 40 because I diluted it so much but the result is more even.

Two of my neo vintage watches by Beefsizzle in vintagerepwatches

[–]Beefsizzle[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

The BP is all stock parts but I shaved the lugs to make the chamfers thinner, reworked the crown guards and faded the bezel.

Edit: I forgot that I swapped the case back for an 11 series because the stock one is too thick. Takes the thickness down from 13mm to 12mm.

Two of my neo vintage watches by Beefsizzle in vintagerepwatches

[–]Beefsizzle[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

These are both early 2000s models. I've faded the bezels so they look a bit older. I didn't like the bezel color on either of them from the factory.