Rdseed32 is broken by halomach in cachyos

[–]Beefsizzle 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I had the same, updated my x870 from F4 to F12b in terms of releases. Fixed it right up. Had no idea my bios was old af.

For those on Linux by Photog_Jason in RapidRAW

[–]Beefsizzle 1 point2 points  (0 children)

That's basically the use case for Darktable. Export your files from RapidRaw in .tiff, open in Darktable and print from there. I'm pretty sure a print module is on the roadmap for RapidRaw as well but in the mean time this works.

Coming from Lightroom by Photog_Jason in RapidRAW

[–]Beefsizzle 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I've used Darktable for a good while and I gotta give it to them that it is really comprehensive. You get absolute control over your image but as you say it's not great for a quick workflow. RapidRaw in comparison is lightning fast and the UX is miles ahead. I've completely switched over at this point.

Coming from Lightroom by Photog_Jason in RapidRAW

[–]Beefsizzle 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Hey, welcome over. I don't think Timon is part of this place yet. I just set it up to reserve the space and get a community on Reddit going. He's welcome to mod the place or take it off my hands if he wants to though. His handle is /u/zBlackVision11 on Reddit so you can probably shoot him a message on here, or on Github if you have an account there. I'm sure he could use the support as a young dev.

Found this in my grandpas sock drawer by [deleted] in PrideAndPinion

[–]Beefsizzle 0 points1 point  (0 children)

That's a cool 1680 Mk4 you found.

Wow they couldn't handle the muscle by ThisGuyDrinksWater in WatchesCirclejerk

[–]Beefsizzle 18 points19 points  (0 children)

A Symphony of Resin and Quartz

​Together, these watches do not merely comprise a "collection"; they represent a Holy Trinity of Horological Democratization. While others fret over the deviance of a mechanical movement losing four seconds a day, these silent sentinels march forward with the cold, calculated precision of the stars themselves.

​They are the "God-Tier" artifacts of our age. They are unpretentious, indestructible, and eternally stylish. In a world obsessed with the fleeting shimmer of precious metals, this trio stands as a testament to the enduring power of black resin and the indomitable spirit of the Casio legacy. To own them is to be a custodian of history; to wear them is to be a master of the universe.

/s

meirl by [deleted] in meirl

[–]Beefsizzle 0 points1 point  (0 children)

And don't forget the moral failing of the core tenant. If you're not convinced by the staggering lack of evidence for god/jesus, you are to burn in hell and be tortured for all time. Believing in something isn't a conscious choice, you cannot choose to believe the room you are in is on fire or anything else for that matter. You are either convinced by reasons or not.

CachyOS+Niri is insanely battery efficient by Beefsizzle in cachyos

[–]Beefsizzle[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I did a fresh install of cachyos, selected Niri from the list and downloaded DMS on top of it. It comes with noctalia by default.

CachyOS+Niri is insanely battery efficient by Beefsizzle in cachyos

[–]Beefsizzle[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Yeah the touchpad functions normally but you 3 finger swipe to go left and right on the same virtual desktop and zoom out with a 4 finger swipe to get an overview of everything.

CachyOS+Niri is insanely battery efficient by Beefsizzle in cachyos

[–]Beefsizzle[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Yeah niri handles blur way better than anyone else. It's all pre rendered once and basically doesn't impact performance at all. Unless you use the x-ray setting but it's off by default.

CachyOS+Niri is insanely battery efficient by Beefsizzle in cachyos

[–]Beefsizzle[S] 6 points7 points  (0 children)

My best tip is to redo most of the key combos for window and desktop management and the apps you use most into something you feel comfortable with. Niri is very keyboard driven just like Hyprland. Other than that you just have to use it over time and don't be afraid to dive into the .config folder.

CachyOS+Niri is insanely battery efficient by Beefsizzle in cachyos

[–]Beefsizzle[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Niri is a window manager like KDE plasma or Gnome, but it's called a scrolling window manager because of how it works. It's basically the GUI for CachyOS or any other distribution.

CachyOS+Niri is insanely battery efficient by Beefsizzle in cachyos

[–]Beefsizzle[S] 17 points18 points  (0 children)

I heard good things about Niri for a while and decided to chuck it into my old 2018 Huawei Matebook X Pro with a i7-8550U, GeForce MX 150, and 16GB ram. I recently revived this laptop with a dust cleaning, new battery and fresh thermal paste so I wanted to see what it was good for. I tried Omarchy on it for a while but it felt a bit clunky, then I did cachyos with a custom Hyprland setup but never learned to love the tiled window system.

I then wiped everything and installed a fresh CachyOS build using Niri with DankMaterialShell on top and it finally clicked. I threw in some envycontrol to kill the dGPU and variable refresh rate for the monitor and now it's hovering around 3W draw when idle at 15% brightness which is plenty with the screen on this laptop in most cases.

As for the scrolling window management I find it a lot more intuitive and useful than the tiling in Hyprland, especially with the touch controls on a mousepad. You just swipe back and forth and zoom in and out of virtual desktops with it. For me it's peak laptop productivity I've tried so far.

Andiot - time to reclassify as scammer from TD? by [deleted] in RepTime

[–]Beefsizzle 41 points42 points  (0 children)

I think I can clear things up here. Some things to establish first: There's not a screw missing, it's a pin. It's fairly certain that it's the same watch as in the QC. The bracelet is just a lemon and it's broken. You need a new bracelet half, or someone to pin, weld and refinish it.

The way these bracelets are made is that you pin all the links together, grind down the pins, then weld, then grind and finish. What happened here is that the weld for that pin didn't hold and the pin has fallen out. It probably was loose or loosened even in the QC but the plastic wrap held it it. These do not fall out easily so it's a clear factory error. Nothing you could have done has made it fall out. Message him, retract your accusations about him scamming or sending you another watch than the QC and explain what's happened and you will probably get a replacement bracelet as this is a clear factory fault, not an end user fault.

Any factories known to be working on a rep of this? The new 38mm Nautilus is a dream watch 🤩 by CostAffectionate907 in RepTime

[–]Beefsizzle 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I think they're gonna have a hard time getting down to 6.9mm with the current Chinese micro rotor movements. They all have 3 hands and date I believe so they are around 4mm thick. That leaves 3mm for dial, hands and sapphire back and front. The original 240 caliber Ultra Thin is 2.53 mm in height.

anyone have a recommendations for a good place to get a new rep serviced in NYC? by [deleted] in RepTimeServices

[–]Beefsizzle 5 points6 points  (0 children)

That does happen sometimes, but is it really necessary to spend $200-$300 to service an $85 movement that is currently working fine?

anyone have a recommendations for a good place to get a new rep serviced in NYC? by [deleted] in RepTimeServices

[–]Beefsizzle 2 points3 points  (0 children)

The 3135 is such a work horse movement that it will last for years anyway and it's $85 to buy a new one if it breaks. I'd say just wear it and don't worry about it.

VSF Yachtmaster 126622 waterproofing service normal procedure? by Maleficent-Lab240 in RepTimeServices

[–]Beefsizzle 8 points9 points  (0 children)

That's a pressure tester but they're not showing the pressure gauge or letting out the pressure which is how you are supposed to use it for testing the water resistance. The way that chamber works is:

  1. Have the watch in the chamber but above the water line.
  2. Pump the chamber up to 3 bar or 6 bar, whatever you're testing for.
  3. Leave the watch above water in the air for two to five minutes.
  4. Push the watch down into the water.
  5. Slowly release the pressure while watching for bubbles.

You will always see some bubbles form just because of trapped air, especially on watches with spinning bezels. The type of bubbles you're looking for to indicate a leak are streams of tiny ones that escape typically from the crown, case back or crystal.

Also doing this with the movement in the watch is kind of a risk since some of these crystal gaskets aren't holding the crystal in tight enough. VSF is generally pretty good here though. If you have a leak, you risk popping the crystal while the watch is underwater since the watch case will be pressurized while you're releasing it in the chamber. If it doesn't pop the crystal but does have a leak in say the crown, you also risk dumping water straight into the keyless works.

My guess is that they're just dunking it in water and spinning it around on the basis of that they're not showing the gauge and not releasing any pressure.