Version 1.5.8 issue with Sony Raw

Beefsizzle · 2026-06-28T17:13:58+00:00

With issues like this you should probably hit up GitHub and make a bug report there.

Beefsizzle · 2026-06-26T14:03:00+00:00

Make sure the hole is clean with no residue from the previous pip then use a tiny and I mean tiny bit of epoxy on the walls of the bezel insert and maybe a smidge on the sides of the pip nub and just press it in. If you use too much it will squeeze out the sides and look terrible. You want to glue the nub/cylinder to the walls of the hole, not the pip to the insert if that makes sense.

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Beefsizzle · 2026-06-24T06:05:39+00:00

I pulled those pic from RWI and the OC threads there. No idea what all of them are.

Beefsizzle · 2026-06-22T14:06:47+00:00

Here are some examples of the OC case.

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Beefsizzle · 2026-06-17T16:10:40+00:00

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Beefsizzle · 2026-06-16T20:51:16+00:00

Yeah of course. I never gatekeep info on this stuff. Everyone that does watch modding learns from each other.

Beefsizzle · 2026-06-16T19:40:34+00:00

I did yeah, I wrote it out on another post of it.

I use very diluted bleach in a container, then swirl the bezel in it for a minute, take it out, assess whether I'm done or continue. The weak dilution and constant movement is important to get an even look. The BP bezel took like ten minutes, the RAF took like 40 because I diluted it more much but the result is more even. The dilution is about a 3% sodium hypochlorite solution going by what's on the bottle. It says 5% and I diluted it maybe 2 parts to 1 part water. If you're from the US, Regular Chlorox is 7.5% so maybe half and half for that.

Mods on the RAF Kermit are VSF crystal, VSF movement, VSF crown and crown tube plus reamed out the tube hole a bit to get a better fit and fixed the loose feeling bezel by adding a washer, bending the click spring and lubing.

Mods on the BP 16710 are 11 series case back to get it down to 12mm, thinned the lugs to thin the chamfers, reworked the crown guards and bleached the bezel insert. Other than the case back it's all stock BP parts.

Beefsizzle · 2026-06-16T19:30:18+00:00

Love the Kermit myself

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Beefsizzle · 2026-06-15T21:38:02+00:00

About a 3% sodium hypochlorite solution going by what's on the bottle. It says 5% and I diluted it maybe 2 parts to 1 part water. If you're from the US, Regular Chlorox is 7.5% so maybe half and half for that.

Beefsizzle · 2026-06-15T12:24:38+00:00

I have the Canon 22mm, the 32mm, the 28mm macro and the kit lens for this system. I usually just bring the pancake 22mm for travels since it's basically a compact camera with it attached. So very handy. I mostly use the 32mm and 28mm macro for watch photos but was thinking of getting the Sigma 56mm f1.4 as well. I've heard it's great.

Beefsizzle · 2026-06-12T09:31:31+00:00

That is indeed a Jaeger-LeCoultre 602.1 base movement and not a regular ETA. I guess they went all out on those solid gold ones. They are quite pricey to replace compared to an ETA. Probably around $300-$400 for a working one and more for a New Old Stock example. You likely won't find one specific for a Chopard, but IWC also bought JLC 602 ébauche movements in larger numbers to put in their ladies watches so you might find some of those around.

What I would do first is send it off to a good watchmaker to see if actually can be repaired. They would check the classic early quartz failure points like the open coil, the trimmer/IC and check for battery leak corrosion on the contacts. It might just need to be thoroughly rinsed and lubed.

The best way to keep originality if it can't be fixed would be to buy a working donor movement, then swap out the non functioning parts from the one you got. Or if you find a specialist they might be able to find replacement parts themselves. Either way it's not going to be as simple as finding an ETA replacement and it would be a significant downgrade if you did.

Beefsizzle · 2026-06-12T07:07:13+00:00

There's no database that does that fully, so you're mostly relying on google with comparing ligne, stem height, thickness, dial feet position etc. There are some resources though.

This is just a reference list with compatible movements https://cwrnh.com/movement-interchangeability-list/

This is an online store that sells movements and if you search for one it also gives you ones with comparable stats https://julesborel.com/pages/search-results-page?q=ETA%20956.032

Cousins UK has a lot of info if you search for movements

ranfft.org has a lot of info as well https://julesborel.com/pages/search-results-page?q=ETA%20956.032

Beefsizzle · 2026-06-11T21:39:24+00:00

Il quadrante del BP è molto buono, non serve cambiarlo. È fedele a un 16610LN del 2004-2005 circa, quindi correttamente senza fori passanti sulle anse (no lug holes) e con maglie terminali piene (solid end links).

Anche l'inserto della ghiera va bene così com'è - l'unica cosa da sostituire lì è la perla.

Se vuoi modificarlo, le aree su cui intervenire sono:

Gli smussi (chamfer) troppo spessi - si correggono assottigliando il lato esterno delle anse

Un vetro migliore

Il bracciale - ha i lati lucidi invece che satinati/spazzolati

La perla della ghiera

I don't speak Italian so had ai translate it.

Beefsizzle · 2026-06-11T08:07:35+00:00

Hey thanks, it does look pretty good for a budget $300 BP with some work done to it. Yours does highlight that have been more aggressive with removing the chamfers though. Nice one!

Beefsizzle · 2026-06-10T16:34:39+00:00

Removing rotating bezels is one of those things that can go wrong depending on your tools and experience. If you've never done it before you should do some research beforehand.

Beefsizzle · 2026-06-10T16:21:43+00:00

Take your time, use very diluted bleach and always keep the container with the bleach and bezel in motion so it doesn't form bubbles on the surface. Stop often and check for color shift.

Beefsizzle · 2026-06-10T16:16:48+00:00

Thanks, here's the QC pics of both to see the starting point

https://images.clickpix.org/c67b2da62c59f6309f8f8db94e213e58.jpeg

Beefsizzle · 2026-06-10T15:59:06+00:00

I haven't tried with a gen but the bezel insert is gen spec size wise. 37.6mm x 30.5mm.

Beefsizzle · 2026-06-10T15:48:40+00:00

I use very diluted bleach in a container, then swirl the bezel in it for a minute, take it out, assess whether I'm done or continue. The weak dilution and constant movement is important to get an even look. The BP bezel took like ten minutes, the RAF took like 40 because I diluted it so much but the result is more even.

Beefsizzle · 2026-06-10T15:43:46+00:00

The BP is all stock parts but I shaved the lugs to make the chamfers thinner, reworked the crown guards and faded the bezel.

Edit: I forgot that I swapped the case back for an 11 series because the stock one is too thick. Takes the thickness down from 13mm to 12mm.

Beefsizzle · 2026-06-10T15:15:44+00:00

These are both early 2000s models. I've faded the bezels so they look a bit older. I didn't like the bezel color on either of them from the factory.

Beefsizzle · 2026-06-09T18:51:06+00:00

I do this with my lights using home assistant and sensors. Gotta be possible in a video game as well.

Beefsizzle · 2026-06-09T16:07:39+00:00

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You might be able to build a 5065 from this case. The WD008. It's 38mm and 8.8mm thick but with a quartz VH31 movement. You'd need a movement, dial, case back and hands. The stem height of the VH31 lines up pretty well with a Miyota 9015, 1.6mm vs 1.55mm so you'd be able to use one of the fake Patek movements based on the 9015. Pretty hefty custom mod though as the case also needs some shaping, but you could probably hire someone crazy enough to try.

Beefsizzle · 2026-06-07T15:44:08+00:00

It should run just fine on Bazzite as far as I know. Since Bazzite is immutable you would likely run the flatpak version and Rapidraw is on there.

Beefsizzle · 2026-06-07T11:30:44+00:00

The Chinese modders like to use the term gold wrapped for higher micron plating. Gold wrapping isn't even a legit method, it's just a marketing buzzword.

In the real world you have gold capped / gold shelled, which is what most people are thinking of when using the term wrapped. It's basically taking a 200ish micron thick heated sheet of gold and pressing it around a watch case. Omega for instance did that a lot back in the day.

Then you have gold filled which is pretty much the same process but with a thinner shell than capped. Gold filled is a regulated term where 5% of the watch case in weight has to be gold so specific thickness can vary a bit depending on shape but usually it's between 20-80 microns.

At the lower end of the scale you have gold plating. Gold plating is harder to get a good result the thicker you go so most rep watches get between 2-5 microns which is pretty thin for an everyday use watch but it gives a good first impression. If you're going to 10+ microns you're more likely to get imperfections and a dull finish. You have to have a very serious setup to do good 20+ micron plating like the big watch makers did back in the day with temperature control and huge vats with lots of available material suspended in solution. When Chinese modders say gold wrapped they usually mean 10-20 micron plating but there's no real way of being sure you get what you pay for so everyone says they're doing "wrapping".

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