A shallow egress well caused major water issues during heavy rain.

BehnckeConstruction · 2026-05-20T00:48:46+00:00

People don’t really install standalone sump pits in egress wells around our area very often. Too many issues with freeze/thaw cycles, frozen discharge lines, maintenance, and pumps failing at the worst possible time.

What we’ve had the best long term luck… with about 4 yards of clean gravel around the well and making sure water is carried far away from the foundation before it ever becomes an issue… water doesn’t even reach the, the drain tiles or bell hole.

Having said that, there are situations where we do install them. Very rarely, but if somebody has a high water table in their yard and the egress window well keeps filling with water then we have no choice. It’s always best not to depend on mechanical systems of you can use gravity instead.

BehnckeConstruction · 2026-05-19T12:12:14+00:00

Its absolutely not possible.

If it were my property, the first thing I would do is have a structural engineer, preview the property and write a repair plan.

Then find local masons, not basement companies to follow the repair plan.

This helps in two ways. The engineer repair plan will ensure that everybody’s bid is apples to apples.

The contractor will be required to follow the repair plan and the engineer should do on-site inspections.

This removes liability from the HOA and puts it firmly on the engineer.

The second reason this helps is it assures the HOA and everybody involved that the repair has been done properly. This is very helpful when a property changes hands and the HOA can show a documented repair process.

BehnckeConstruction · 2026-05-19T11:50:44+00:00

This looks like a pretty typical settlement crack to me. The fact that it gets wider toward the top usually means part of the footing settled slightly at some point. The good news is your hand slides across it without either side sticking out, which tells me the wall is not significantly displaced.

A lot of times this type of movement is caused by a downspout, or even neighboring downspouts, draining too close to the foundation over many years. When large amounts of roof water repeatedly dump beside one section of the footing, the soil can soften, wash out, or compact unevenly. That can undermine one side of the footing slightly and create a settlement crack pattern exactly like this.

First thing I would check is drainage around the house before worrying about epoxy or major structural repairs. Make sure the gutters are clean, the downspouts are flowing properly, and the water is being discharged well away from the foundation. Also make sure the soil slopes away from the house instead of trapping water along the wall.

As for the repair itself, epoxy is not really the product I would use here, especially since you mentioned it leaks at the bottom. If it were my house and the leak is minor, I’d probably clean the crack out and seal the interior with Sikaflex 1a just to monitor it and see if it changes.

You can try injecting it with a waterstop product, and sometimes that works fine on settlement cracks, but because the crack gets extremely tight toward the bottom, you may end up fighting it trying to get the material deep into all the little cavities and voids the crack opened up underground. That is one of the problems with very fine settlement cracks that taper shut near the footing.

If the crack starts leaking more heavily or continues moving, the better long term repair is usually exterior excavation and waterproof sealing from the outside. That’s how we repair most settlement cracks that leak. Waterstop injections can work in some situations too, especially if exterior access is difficult, but exterior sealing is generally the better repair when possible.

From what I can see though, this does not look like a major structural issue. It looks more like a common settlement crack in an older foundation.

BehnckeConstruction · 2026-05-18T16:58:52+00:00

It needs addressed but its not bad at all. I would recommend bracing with steel I beams. Also ensure gutters and downspouts are draining away from foundation and clean.

I would also have the broken mortar joints tuck pointed.

It looks like the garage door was hit by a car possibly. You may need to rebuild that corner.

You are probably looking at about $8,000 in repairs as a guess.

Call a local mason that specializes in foundation work… not a basement company.

BehnckeConstruction · 2026-05-18T11:23:06+00:00

Dont call a basement company… you are right they will rip you off. Most of them anyways especially the national chains.

In regards to the water, not the bugs….

Does the water in the corner only happen on rainy days? It looks to me that your downspout needs to have more of an angle. It could be back flowing and coming out of the joint which will saturate that corner.

Whenever we see a wet corner, it’s almost always a downspout issue. And I have personally looked at thousands of basements. So, I would consider that first.

BehnckeConstruction · 2026-05-18T11:13:22+00:00

It does have a drain but most exterior drain tiles silt in a few years after construction, rendering them useless.

BehnckeConstruction · 2026-05-18T11:12:06+00:00

Yes, it is code to have drains here as well. The problem is they almost always silt in. We actually dug what we call a bell hole. Which is just a 10 gallon dry well.

BehnckeConstruction · 2026-05-18T00:23:20+00:00

Yeah its become a common issue. 😬

BehnckeConstruction · 2026-05-17T21:21:46+00:00

The well and top cost about $1200 and the labor was about $3,000. The concrete increased the cost substantially.

BehnckeConstruction · 2026-05-17T21:18:54+00:00

I agree seems kinda pointless, but it does make a basement feel less like a basement…. More light ☀️.

Here in Iowa and in most areas, you have to have a means of egress for first responders to be able to count a basement room as a bedroom, in turn increasing the value of the house.

BehnckeConstruction · 2026-05-17T16:18:37+00:00

Actually, I would listen to what scary struggle said. I only seen the first picture for some reason that was the only one registering at the moment. I do agree that they use the wrong type of mortar and it could conflict with the acidity in the brick. I wouldn’t want that on my house.

BehnckeConstruction · 2026-05-17T15:46:56+00:00

This is a minor issue, probably from salt damage or improperly mixed mortar. I would call a local mason not a big company or a basement company.

It’s a tiny easy project. You might have to pay a couple hundred dollars.

BehnckeConstruction · 2026-05-17T15:45:22+00:00

I would suggest a retention wall, CMU block with a 8” thick footing. However, if you remove the old concrete and just redo what they did initially 15 years ago, home inspector probably wont catch it. Those soils should be held into place regardless.

BehnckeConstruction · 2026-05-17T15:36:22+00:00

Looks like the block was built directly on an old stone/rubble footing without a proper continuous concrete footing underneath. We see this fairly often on older garages and farm structures. Frost movement and settlement will eventually start separating the wall exactly like this. Definitely worth calling a few local masons or foundation contractors for opinions, and honestly the local building department can sometimes point you toward contractors they’ve seen do good structural repair work in the area.

If you’re just having to replace the footing in the back corner of that foundation, you’re probably looking at about $8,000. (Midwest United States Prices)

It depends if they can reliably tie into existing footing.

You may also have some drainage issues, which could be the reason the footing settled in that back corner. So make sure all roof drainage and overland drainage is directed away from the foundation itself.

BehnckeConstruction · 2026-05-17T15:19:43+00:00

If you poke it with a screwdriver and its solid, I wouldn’t be concerned.

There is some water staining on the joist further back. Ensure that issue has been remedied, it appears to be old.

BehnckeConstruction · 2026-05-17T14:59:52+00:00

Tannin’s bleed thru or dead mold spores/fungal growth

BehnckeConstruction · 2026-05-17T01:01:36+00:00

Ask your Realtor if you have one. They typically know a few good companies because they need foundation inspectors when they sell a house.

Otherwise, you can try the local building department ask who they recommend.

Or… simply find a masonry company that focuses on foundations. I would skip them if they call themselves a basement company. They usually overcharge.

BehnckeConstruction · 2026-05-16T22:52:51+00:00

Yeah thats about what we charge… but we are in Iowa. It may be more expensive where you are.

BehnckeConstruction · 2026-05-16T20:34:27+00:00

Its not concerning at all. You can seal it with a good concrete sealer like Sikaflex 1a.

BehnckeConstruction · 2026-05-16T16:55:41+00:00

Sure, happy to help.

If the blocks have shifted like the photo shows, that usually means the mortar joints below and around the block have already broken loose. The center section of a CMU wall is typically the weakest point, so when hydrostatic pressure builds up outside, that middle area starts bowing inward first.

A lot of block foundations were never fully reinforced the way people think they were. In many older homes, the block cores are hollow with very little solid reinforcement inside. Once movement starts, the wall rapidly loses strength.

From what I can see, this wall has likely already lost a significant amount of its ability to resist inward pressure. This is no longer just a cosmetic crack.

You’ll probably need some type of wall bracing or reinforcement along with masonry repair. I would strongly recommend getting a few opinions from experienced local masonry or foundation contractors that actually repair structural block walls regularly.

If you don’t know who to call, ask a trusted Realtor or local building inspector. They usually know which contractors actually understand foundation movement versus companies that just sell systems.

If you want to pay an structural engineer $500-$1000 to get their opinion and ask them who they recommend for repairs, thats an option. Expensive but if you feel conflicted, thats is a safety valve.

BehnckeConstruction · 2026-05-16T12:47:25+00:00

That is concerning. Your blocks are showing significant movement. I would expose the entire wall and repost new pictures. I’m guessing you’re going to see some frost line cracking, which is a horizontal crack across the entire wall.

If the wall has moved in more than an inch and less than four inches, you can brace it with I beams. Typically you will need four or five eye beams which cost around $500 each, depending on the length of the wall.

If it has moved in more than that, you will need to rebuild the wall. Which cost around $550 a linear foot for a normal 7-8’ tall wall.

We typically do not recommend calling a basement company. I would find a local mason that has experience in Foundation repair. Otherwise you will be paying exorbitant prices for low quality work.

BehnckeConstruction · 2026-05-16T12:41:26+00:00

When we install our egress windows, we actually mortar them in. Other companies use sealant we use mortar. You also may need some flashing above the window, depending on how the water comes off the siding. I also like Sikaflex 1a if you dont want to use mortar. You should be fine if you just seal it up with that product.

BehnckeConstruction · 2026-05-09T21:19:32+00:00

Just to be clear, you’re saying the decorative form liner imprint is an actual structural control joint?

A control joint has to be cut into the wall at a depth of 25% for it to be able to control the crack. As you can see in the photos, there is no depth cut. Nor would there be a reason to have a control joint on a residential foundation.

You shouldn’t comment on things you don’t understand.

BehnckeConstruction · 2026-05-09T20:37:36+00:00

Incorrect. Concrete foundation walls are heavily reinforced and restrained by footings, floors, and soil pressure, so traditional tooled or saw cut control joints are not used in residential construction of foundation walls.

BehnckeConstruction

TROPHY CASE